tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8590599250970859452023-11-23T03:53:42.665-08:00SingaBorchertsMichael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.comBlogger57125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-28515485682594947842019-09-11T07:00:00.000-07:002019-09-11T07:00:07.789-07:00The Long Way Home: OkinawaOur final stop on the long way home was Okinawa, or as Michael likes to call it, "Japan's Hawaii". Located about 750 km south of the "main" Japanese islands, the Okinawan islands were, until 1879, the seat of the Ryukyu kingdom which incorporated cultural elements from China, Japan, and various south Pacific islanders. Held as a Japanese colony until 1912 when it's inhabitants were formally granted representation in the national government, Okinawa is now a (usually) sunny tropical getaway and also home to a major US military presence.<br />
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After "roughing it" in Borneo for two weeks we decided to take it easy at a seaside resort. We remembered pretty quickly that we're not really resort people, especially when the resort has as many fiddly rules as the ones in Japan. It didn't help that there was a typhoon blowing in and so it was pretty cloudy and cool the whole time we were there. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The hermit crab racetrack was pretty neat, though.</td></tr>
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Our first night out we escaped the resort and found a fun Izakaya, or Japanese pub, up on the main road. We got an array of sushi and noodles, and Michael discovered Awamori: Okinawan rice brandy.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hooray for sushi in Japan!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Somehow our children got pulled into an origami lesson from the Japanese grandmother at the next table over</td></tr>
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The next day, with the weather still crummy and the troops restless, we decided to brave the Okinawan mass transit system and go to visit a promising Soba noodle shop and the local cultural village. Unsurprisingly, the bus system was great. It was still Japan, after all.<br />
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The noodle shop had goats on their roof, a wide assortment of musical instruments lying around, and we got to order way too much food from a vending machine. The food doesn't come out of the vending machine, that's just where you get the tickets to hand to the waiter who has been hovering over your shoulder while you try to figure out which buttons correspond to what food using Google Translate. I'm sure this solution is more efficient in most circumstances, since we saw it at every hole-in-the-wall restaurant we went to.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6b5o0L3EGa40IHtJ4MXPiESYre6I44yi9CMPt5G5K_ZILB7y9mIesoobeys3Mq37B6s0KgNXRhx_hSEhAkRfwH6ae8C7ulEc8O8R5oGyY2zN4cYEn_74oZKu6R96In0X5KcVWuyeXMXr/s1600/20190718_131209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6b5o0L3EGa40IHtJ4MXPiESYre6I44yi9CMPt5G5K_ZILB7y9mIesoobeys3Mq37B6s0KgNXRhx_hSEhAkRfwH6ae8C7ulEc8O8R5oGyY2zN4cYEn_74oZKu6R96In0X5KcVWuyeXMXr/s640/20190718_131209.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Japan is super great. The end.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC3vBLbRdbg28oRh9B2jj0k4qtpiX63xf61_vHWvqk5NYv_qhstcGViasBThvZiAle2vXjRCJ1vqklHpveRLSrH3GTWHf78bz6jOlvpGyF5anGq4ZT88e20lzG83MRTSQn9qTjY1-JAMdi/s1600/IMG_20190718_130646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC3vBLbRdbg28oRh9B2jj0k4qtpiX63xf61_vHWvqk5NYv_qhstcGViasBThvZiAle2vXjRCJ1vqklHpveRLSrH3GTWHf78bz6jOlvpGyF5anGq4ZT88e20lzG83MRTSQn9qTjY1-JAMdi/s640/IMG_20190718_130646.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"What the heck are Juicy Noodles?!"</td></tr>
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After lunch we visited the cultural village, where the kids did handicrafts and then a scavenger hunt.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijz2eYIL7d1BFvJ02K1YuxLYF3VjOtZdnYX_U55NmJzD65EWVP3nJbz0iLbQRF1jIhpvHSkHBpFJwJ5zwVxKPxi7Pn1Yefa9J6ZQMqSsh6ZGYhkT3eB0Q6ckviVTpMrG93pZG1u5mwtum2/s1600/IMG_20190718_143607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijz2eYIL7d1BFvJ02K1YuxLYF3VjOtZdnYX_U55NmJzD65EWVP3nJbz0iLbQRF1jIhpvHSkHBpFJwJ5zwVxKPxi7Pn1Yefa9J6ZQMqSsh6ZGYhkT3eB0Q6ckviVTpMrG93pZG1u5mwtum2/s640/IMG_20190718_143607.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Middle child has opinions</td></tr>
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We also found a fortune-telling tree, and all dropped coins in the box to get our horoscope that we could tie around the railing at the right zodiac symbol.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz9HPObH2Qa10iiAPyK89F3lb2EluAnRQXPy2UbVnbDMO_RJkj3098vAZSKFw7a34fiRiv1_ZM4EJ64qWsPC8T73TEEA0zALEYeK9lbeZQ97NVbBr5Xq9sLzTjNv2IRPRgyoQ5zUZcNpnr/s1600/IMG_20190718_154821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz9HPObH2Qa10iiAPyK89F3lb2EluAnRQXPy2UbVnbDMO_RJkj3098vAZSKFw7a34fiRiv1_ZM4EJ64qWsPC8T73TEEA0zALEYeK9lbeZQ97NVbBr5Xq9sLzTjNv2IRPRgyoQ5zUZcNpnr/s640/IMG_20190718_154821.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three of us are "sheep", which is probably either really good or really bad.</td></tr>
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There was the obligatory lion dance and musical performance.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9u_6FgGNqGNv9GOGhyhDT3YtdEGTwWdIx-OdLnWNTo8Xm8MIzFXatXUi87zNp45pkN5S-lNRjeWiXKXjWr1OpnMa_GyvzC4ihdg0XognEBej6ZN_hjXwUEH_gcHTfbOcqUikZ3Gpp8rd_/s1600/IMG_20190718_160928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9u_6FgGNqGNv9GOGhyhDT3YtdEGTwWdIx-OdLnWNTo8Xm8MIzFXatXUi87zNp45pkN5S-lNRjeWiXKXjWr1OpnMa_GyvzC4ihdg0XognEBej6ZN_hjXwUEH_gcHTfbOcqUikZ3Gpp8rd_/s640/IMG_20190718_160928.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Okinawa is actually closer to Taiwan than it is the rest of Japan, so there were a lot of Chinese cultural influences</td></tr>
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And Maxwell found an animal to pet. The village was comprised of historic buildings gathered from all over Okinawa and brought to this site to show the traditional architecture and way of life of the Ryukyu people.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP2X4CSvU-YumzZK5l4rPuh8cBzJ_57Vlr1yC7KZ8W99uN0HK4Y8bffxrTTAHJeeOjPEeIui9NYHl21ujllJxn3xTvR4uwvJbIQh1HV2fvkcIkfqJeSvaHnvb0zD5PKkFtfCSJXc1RRHT4/s1600/IMG_20190718_165307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP2X4CSvU-YumzZK5l4rPuh8cBzJ_57Vlr1yC7KZ8W99uN0HK4Y8bffxrTTAHJeeOjPEeIui9NYHl21ujllJxn3xTvR4uwvJbIQh1HV2fvkcIkfqJeSvaHnvb0zD5PKkFtfCSJXc1RRHT4/s640/IMG_20190718_165307.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Why yes, it <i>was</i> raining</td></tr>
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Finally, treasure hunt complete and afternoon ice cream consumed, we headed back to the resort.<br />
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The next day we decided to walk up the coast to investigate something on the map labeled "Glassworks". On the way we had a delicious cafe lunch and way too much dessert, and collected shells and played in a stream on a relatively deserted stretch of beach.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhABWweh9Yzom6TqSJIzH_9p4lgcVSP2bRIKzwsbikhWYGglq4gLlvawBzXE3Wmfk6Tbfl8SNpERSCBNq4nm40OqJMnD8_tnB1x4sXJoFeOtJbKGoklSy3sKsRwBLRpyPTEp_NxAD9zzXPc/s1600/IMG_20190719_132850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhABWweh9Yzom6TqSJIzH_9p4lgcVSP2bRIKzwsbikhWYGglq4gLlvawBzXE3Wmfk6Tbfl8SNpERSCBNq4nm40OqJMnD8_tnB1x4sXJoFeOtJbKGoklSy3sKsRwBLRpyPTEp_NxAD9zzXPc/s640/IMG_20190719_132850.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ice Kachang meets S'Mores</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU3HK1ulAzyi3Asm3ZyX_8dE_DaCXhJAvgSJ5M_jxY8lg380013ZZsrKiCLBB-UuXN5DIGUkgY565PHBGkXplSPukJsy6aBv6DFLMAO56nNJHPfH86x_N8RSO0OthHQdFeFktMPJWpywqO/s1600/20190719_144232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU3HK1ulAzyi3Asm3ZyX_8dE_DaCXhJAvgSJ5M_jxY8lg380013ZZsrKiCLBB-UuXN5DIGUkgY565PHBGkXplSPukJsy6aBv6DFLMAO56nNJHPfH86x_N8RSO0OthHQdFeFktMPJWpywqO/s640/20190719_144232.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fine Borchert tradition</td></tr>
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The region of Okinawa we were in was known for its glass, and the glassworks we found was merely one of many such institutions catering to tourists. We declined to do our own glass-blowing (apparently you can spend a fair amount of money to have people shout urgent instructions at you in Japanese!) and just toured the showroom and eventually found a mirror maze up on the second floor.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjaqMXrljyzdP8gwkxlxlPOOT0Pqy86LExBIuuFJGtog1kXl0dxhbCCisO-Gs1eke4fCsmh7BsGl-tgiPXahigbr0nPKAR2Ldsv9PvLnKQZkVFLDh3sJLFfO9SIi3JFmsDNwz6_XtxOEFW/s1600/IMG_20190719_154409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjaqMXrljyzdP8gwkxlxlPOOT0Pqy86LExBIuuFJGtog1kXl0dxhbCCisO-Gs1eke4fCsmh7BsGl-tgiPXahigbr0nPKAR2Ldsv9PvLnKQZkVFLDh3sJLFfO9SIi3JFmsDNwz6_XtxOEFW/s640/IMG_20190719_154409.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIlwUsB6mj4j_muaTrr80ZCNqdrQE85n4bMiZPcU2rkyZrYwteEsZG4JlLhZLWUSG7yXilw9kMyri02VoRO2i9Biyh7EdwZZcgWH5v1og12r_9S7BInLGS8xJq7r4zy0ef3VSl_GlPLW3R/s1600/IMG_20190719_154114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIlwUsB6mj4j_muaTrr80ZCNqdrQE85n4bMiZPcU2rkyZrYwteEsZG4JlLhZLWUSG7yXilw9kMyri02VoRO2i9Biyh7EdwZZcgWH5v1og12r_9S7BInLGS8xJq7r4zy0ef3VSl_GlPLW3R/s640/IMG_20190719_154114.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">America Time!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgijTS8r0YBmHgQrxCU4qgXuAbcnKTNbtBTv6HqNV4KLbw9x5A8pjZ_-cQh31mX-oT5DMfKBnA54ASqbSrhr_BgQUJv7udkFVnUtNUSUFjfhid4KH3pfEl918oEtVnBrCvbb7MtkV8kA0gc/s1600/IMG_20190719_152406.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgijTS8r0YBmHgQrxCU4qgXuAbcnKTNbtBTv6HqNV4KLbw9x5A8pjZ_-cQh31mX-oT5DMfKBnA54ASqbSrhr_BgQUJv7udkFVnUtNUSUFjfhid4KH3pfEl918oEtVnBrCvbb7MtkV8kA0gc/s640/IMG_20190719_152406.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Never found the crystal minotaur, though</td></tr>
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For our last dinner in Okinawa we went to a Yakiniku restaurant, where Michael and the big kids cooked meat and veggies over a little grill in the center of the table. The kids all got to try the Wagyu A5 beef, but Michael declined to let them try to cook it. Middle child was pretty terrified of the flame at first, but he warmed up to it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyKbUcKXl8P9-nlOz18NwiZcgLOPwKmOUIhb991gcVR6Qph2t5-SVIK0JfR-rAEIGyS1WLTBmwpoCrZQiHyNlxi9EqTKyhAHuLh2MqQ0njYIapJxP9kmZ90Q8USG0cejQ7ExT2xg5EQULQ/s1600/IMG_20190719_185634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyKbUcKXl8P9-nlOz18NwiZcgLOPwKmOUIhb991gcVR6Qph2t5-SVIK0JfR-rAEIGyS1WLTBmwpoCrZQiHyNlxi9EqTKyhAHuLh2MqQ0njYIapJxP9kmZ90Q8USG0cejQ7ExT2xg5EQULQ/s640/IMG_20190719_185634.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fire makes everything better. Even vegetables!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4PkGK4WERqAVgvR6BohB6ovoj8n04yIJohIecLF-2vHrFGvkaZsHLhf8j1k5e7g1KFTlcdOhzhHIDgfortbMCJV7E1p987VZOwU39Yifihu4k_kXdkbyPraLEt0o8sSwb25j0RWXb1V6o/s1600/IMG_20190719_161046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4PkGK4WERqAVgvR6BohB6ovoj8n04yIJohIecLF-2vHrFGvkaZsHLhf8j1k5e7g1KFTlcdOhzhHIDgfortbMCJV7E1p987VZOwU39Yifihu4k_kXdkbyPraLEt0o8sSwb25j0RWXb1V6o/s640/IMG_20190719_161046.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Totally accurate</td></tr>
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The next morning we took a taxi back to the airport, listening to the American military radio station the whole way in. Then it was off to Tokyo, and onto our <b>very last plane</b>, good old Delta Airlines winging us back to Minneapolis, Minnesota.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwML3O4P4P3Y47CIBTde52DDuOXef2jIJxORBWkpYZhxMwuwKGz8mDp2c_Kq2M5ceSy-XPB6WDZ6fy94ndTO-K19iM0T2kNmNaZCy2mFejL7E-m8jBoOs3AYJWO-svSB2up2FPWybajfMo/s1600/20190720_164609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwML3O4P4P3Y47CIBTde52DDuOXef2jIJxORBWkpYZhxMwuwKGz8mDp2c_Kq2M5ceSy-XPB6WDZ6fy94ndTO-K19iM0T2kNmNaZCy2mFejL7E-m8jBoOs3AYJWO-svSB2up2FPWybajfMo/s640/20190720_164609.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On our way home!</td></tr>
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Thanks everyone for following along with our adventures! We've enjoyed having you look over our shoulders as we've explored Asia, even though we feel like we've only scratched the surface. It was truly an amazing opportunity, and we'd love to tell you more about it or help you plan <i>your</i> adventure if you're ever headed to that part of the world! We're largely settled back in to our lives in the US by this point, so don't hesitate to reach out if you're local and we haven't had a chance to connect yet, and if you're <i>not</i> local, you're always welcome to come visit!<br />
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<br />Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-73486332683360923722019-09-06T08:00:00.000-07:002019-09-06T08:00:04.406-07:00The Long Way Home: Bako National ParkWith the music wrapped up it was time to say goodbye to our jungle lodging and return to the hustle and bustle of Kuching.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb9AqCBvYHvzOJInH7g7ZeUfdSUgzs58wGDgoxtbdemUnB3UReyRwMPn2bbPR3prkttVtK9ED66MV_5n-uD4_ppBy5MwU2hxrOa_whPhLqyJ5XT_NDs32oGQtg-nRPH1Us67fuNktWXYcO/s1600/IMG_20190715_105038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb9AqCBvYHvzOJInH7g7ZeUfdSUgzs58wGDgoxtbdemUnB3UReyRwMPn2bbPR3prkttVtK9ED66MV_5n-uD4_ppBy5MwU2hxrOa_whPhLqyJ5XT_NDs32oGQtg-nRPH1Us67fuNktWXYcO/s640/IMG_20190715_105038.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Conquering boulder beach</td></tr>
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Back in town we did some souvenir shopping and our last laundry of the trip!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1T5om5rXqmC1jAi_mkpaeVjq3F2-JUqO5onCLuMFMb1MPAIcQFksMeVfCMpCdIvA-3QHFzan0P7gXMmbHqCfEqWE2N8JDrDCZ0VaGZgZQg8FcJ9H2BCD_BbP79C3Ov8oMmYQRcLwUYiuo/s1600/IMG_20190709_140440.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1T5om5rXqmC1jAi_mkpaeVjq3F2-JUqO5onCLuMFMb1MPAIcQFksMeVfCMpCdIvA-3QHFzan0P7gXMmbHqCfEqWE2N8JDrDCZ0VaGZgZQg8FcJ9H2BCD_BbP79C3Ov8oMmYQRcLwUYiuo/s640/IMG_20190709_140440.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The hornbill is a sacred omen in much of SE Asia. Danger Monkey is unimpressed.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3-da3HHmWDKTrnwItb4QHLgvzuEurgwuvdpIcFr_aS2PuY3uknDOquPJlvVKjwNhfoqRwQfVry7Zyj5yGKW_6CRgW1gIfxdYJ7RSekmy5v2DOljzUH9JcI3CTkXLBFATgK_dTzaZwVFUm/s1600/IMG_20190715_150924.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3-da3HHmWDKTrnwItb4QHLgvzuEurgwuvdpIcFr_aS2PuY3uknDOquPJlvVKjwNhfoqRwQfVry7Zyj5yGKW_6CRgW1gIfxdYJ7RSekmy5v2DOljzUH9JcI3CTkXLBFATgK_dTzaZwVFUm/s640/IMG_20190715_150924.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The gentleman on the left had strong opinions about temperature settings.</td></tr>
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Our flight to our last hop on the long way home left late at night, so we decided to spend the day visiting the Bako National Park just a little ways to the east. The park covers a large peninsula and is home to a variety of native and endangered species. It has no roads into it, and so the only access is from the coast by boat. We took a taxi ride to the ferry terminal where there seemed to be a number of competing "official" ferry services, and eventually hired a boat to drop us off at the visitor center and then pick us back up at a bay a few kilometers down the trail.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSVHkpp2Igncypmp09OJdTVDrSxuA-_uu47_ssXTzCBtMmWMbaXmUCuzJLws-I3TRjgVSE6b1SepIXJ6khpzL3zEcqltZ8mTXBuZE8fJ6g2cl87qKvkKmE-Jrn-CSgNsPH9KLCCWUoFAAo/s1600/20190716_100953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSVHkpp2Igncypmp09OJdTVDrSxuA-_uu47_ssXTzCBtMmWMbaXmUCuzJLws-I3TRjgVSE6b1SepIXJ6khpzL3zEcqltZ8mTXBuZE8fJ6g2cl87qKvkKmE-Jrn-CSgNsPH9KLCCWUoFAAo/s640/20190716_100953.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The visitor center had a bare-bones cafeteria, a camping registration desk, and kind of a lot of "wild" animals. We saw herds of bearded pigs that seemed to have become pretty accustomed to humans, a lone proboscis monkey sitting in a tree, and a green viper chilling in a bush.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh5eT8nYl4zaKogrTm4IrQ-KXWiQv1xzepnnaP79ShuxQtTG0_GgDeabBI-TdLTsmD9-N4x8hA0PceNP66kWFX9vyzyCCWQtHQwyzr48fX4dP8U4fBha4DrVQZItHXW8aH0x7C_rHO-ONx/s1600/IMG_20190716_101148.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh5eT8nYl4zaKogrTm4IrQ-KXWiQv1xzepnnaP79ShuxQtTG0_GgDeabBI-TdLTsmD9-N4x8hA0PceNP66kWFX9vyzyCCWQtHQwyzr48fX4dP8U4fBha4DrVQZItHXW8aH0x7C_rHO-ONx/s640/IMG_20190716_101148.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Low tide makes for a long walk</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTRpmTj6HPy53pPFjkwCZrYZ_8HBXaULLGgxlLjLJBs-V1E2BoiM7Bb1hE9TtSiznbk_EwYEZraXnWDDIoaqZkehVtwL8a77h1GQEw4HOh9f_6_hTzUPOnB72AuRaszd2mkUHyQ3GRL0TD/s1600/IMG_20190716_102609.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTRpmTj6HPy53pPFjkwCZrYZ_8HBXaULLGgxlLjLJBs-V1E2BoiM7Bb1hE9TtSiznbk_EwYEZraXnWDDIoaqZkehVtwL8a77h1GQEw4HOh9f_6_hTzUPOnB72AuRaszd2mkUHyQ3GRL0TD/s640/IMG_20190716_102609.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks like someone has a regular feeding spot</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhknENVcEFYvRBiWQd1l72FAy1czocWlhyphenhyphenHekcDHpTadgtT7oOKL9PESmHMBIo4jDUJTqURpGiyLNrc_LGnkRXr_aFOtTtISWTsbdCgzoFosfC6TPtmZk3DA1VbQ472woC5ky6ejw6-k8Up/s1600/IMG_20190716_103427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhknENVcEFYvRBiWQd1l72FAy1czocWlhyphenhyphenHekcDHpTadgtT7oOKL9PESmHMBIo4jDUJTqURpGiyLNrc_LGnkRXr_aFOtTtISWTsbdCgzoFosfC6TPtmZk3DA1VbQ472woC5ky6ejw6-k8Up/s640/IMG_20190716_103427.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The staff claimed the viper was "very friendly".</td></tr>
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Then it was off down the trail. The trail itself was an amazing track of roots and cliffs and trees and wildlife. We saw ant trails that stretched for a hundred meters, families of monkeys crashing through the canopy, and this super-awesome caterpillar:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFwC-z6kkwqCpKOhzQQIz7OMOSW-UW3jmEX9k794zYq3ZmABKRqsTLIuLfK0pqh_fAAO88-aO7-ePLX3qItWVZkkKr2QW9CWK8R7GOotL5qSxk0d8Pq5hLd02B2_ydchtKio7mOTOHrrLm/s1600/VID_20190716_113906.mp4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFwC-z6kkwqCpKOhzQQIz7OMOSW-UW3jmEX9k794zYq3ZmABKRqsTLIuLfK0pqh_fAAO88-aO7-ePLX3qItWVZkkKr2QW9CWK8R7GOotL5qSxk0d8Pq5hLd02B2_ydchtKio7mOTOHrrLm/s640/VID_20190716_113906.mp4" width="360" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1QuBGMvxGQ2zZ4l0rzWfTVPfXNIzJz7L-TA4nWkzvzpDc3IhUt0fS0iP2vq0-TPC_TOXvzLh5SA-JuW7c0jgEQ5i7t01Ex7_TRDu5M-WUajMLtKJddEzEZKYxDHw7fnuh_c4rT02yB70x/s1600/IMG_20190716_111034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1QuBGMvxGQ2zZ4l0rzWfTVPfXNIzJz7L-TA4nWkzvzpDc3IhUt0fS0iP2vq0-TPC_TOXvzLh5SA-JuW7c0jgEQ5i7t01Ex7_TRDu5M-WUajMLtKJddEzEZKYxDHw7fnuh_c4rT02yB70x/s640/IMG_20190716_111034.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No worse than a typical BWCA portage</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhndJDGScgVjFhTZQhptdGsqHURxrpbOUzC33K3LK22UjX9onBXtG5nPKdTbgXFvj-krem8wNdRb5pe9edJvnm_8IKVByNRt8tRnaIQF4Egl2UPFN3k2wX2tbHUnTuG-zN4Lp1BBJqzAsH_/s1600/20190716_120925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhndJDGScgVjFhTZQhptdGsqHURxrpbOUzC33K3LK22UjX9onBXtG5nPKdTbgXFvj-krem8wNdRb5pe9edJvnm_8IKVByNRt8tRnaIQF4Egl2UPFN3k2wX2tbHUnTuG-zN4Lp1BBJqzAsH_/s320/20190716_120925.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ants. All the bugs in Borneo were 10x the size of bugs in Minnesota.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr7BYdUoyKrQhhYTduKeaA3sRUL_pJLYHygRVagcqjdk-pbrVAuGRuvhsEzn4WVgC_U2Ua4XHx4n8avGxa73TFShso6AsOp_z3pTqF8v44cE-0XFIG7LgNk7V_pa0s01ZZOoyxBnkhA0vg/s1600/20190716_111410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1099" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr7BYdUoyKrQhhYTduKeaA3sRUL_pJLYHygRVagcqjdk-pbrVAuGRuvhsEzn4WVgC_U2Ua4XHx4n8avGxa73TFShso6AsOp_z3pTqF8v44cE-0XFIG7LgNk7V_pa0s01ZZOoyxBnkhA0vg/s640/20190716_111410.jpg" width="438" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We found a swing!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizWExWbNtO-oaiP7TNA9VsXh6OICRzrEa7014Aztt2snQU02NBIPrObU6ot_b_FbaFXiqX_ExGTcFA3xLI17aC-nRQT_4tPPw41xBNQNkVZyHo34qyZAT8tVtouK26J9f_32qDsPt-Lntp/s1600/IMG_20190716_111711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizWExWbNtO-oaiP7TNA9VsXh6OICRzrEa7014Aztt2snQU02NBIPrObU6ot_b_FbaFXiqX_ExGTcFA3xLI17aC-nRQT_4tPPw41xBNQNkVZyHo34qyZAT8tVtouK26J9f_32qDsPt-Lntp/s640/IMG_20190716_111711.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not pictured: her Pineapple Majesty getting stuck at the top.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKvwgs_RzSJvfBl3J7BJS7pEim8vbVJvKN9307MkLH1E9ERS9i2bzYBVmvaKdtBuihxbjyxDk_ixGE4EcxgS9rOFmHGWbu2ACDKlpzwL22BQsFvNBvJWT3R7cbG3LsN4G3Y_98wGFvGZse/s1600/IMG_20190716_113715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKvwgs_RzSJvfBl3J7BJS7pEim8vbVJvKN9307MkLH1E9ERS9i2bzYBVmvaKdtBuihxbjyxDk_ixGE4EcxgS9rOFmHGWbu2ACDKlpzwL22BQsFvNBvJWT3R7cbG3LsN4G3Y_98wGFvGZse/s640/IMG_20190716_113715.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apparently Michelle Yeoh beat us here.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZc89CNYBUnIuIhRAivLlm8g5RRUM2x1EfyoYX_n9JCTwG01XXB0yE4uUXAj8NhhaG_Wr8BO48cegCU4QccSCfHQGKOJxjNeTSGLAINuGCIznjagMg6WsKBYkpyZyBONiBOBvA6NzPRrme/s1600/IMG_20190716_114223.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZc89CNYBUnIuIhRAivLlm8g5RRUM2x1EfyoYX_n9JCTwG01XXB0yE4uUXAj8NhhaG_Wr8BO48cegCU4QccSCfHQGKOJxjNeTSGLAINuGCIznjagMg6WsKBYkpyZyBONiBOBvA6NzPRrme/s640/IMG_20190716_114223.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are like 10 monkeys in this picture, I swear.</td></tr>
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Eventually we reached the spine of the peninsula, and found the top was dry and barren! Bako park is notable for containing a surprising number of climactic zones, from mangrove forests at the shoreline to lush jungle on the lower slopes to cloud forest filled with epiphytes and orchids in the upper reaches to this alien rocky and sandy arid savannah on the top of the ridge.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZfGWAMt1vmzKgMJya8eXdAxzXMFh2AFu_X-x5cDGykRekxelbBysm5iXM_AMV-h3yvYnfPJLkJQPSwNwnCnOcGGChMZOogA5NwsrQHJsgVYVByor7MMEYVRV8lQYd1voG4ZfeBJKy-qrE/s1600/IMG_20190716_122301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZfGWAMt1vmzKgMJya8eXdAxzXMFh2AFu_X-x5cDGykRekxelbBysm5iXM_AMV-h3yvYnfPJLkJQPSwNwnCnOcGGChMZOogA5NwsrQHJsgVYVByor7MMEYVRV8lQYd1voG4ZfeBJKy-qrE/s640/IMG_20190716_122301.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suddenly parking lot</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6aweCWKBQx2eN6Do3NvP094YB1vvjvnc0v4l_mgLAc67WBdbmnreHh3EaF-GROPIqA-C7F_xC3B3MknKvjrwLw4psxyHvLgbg9bRjq324TnJtIqTcjUXLrO7_KybCBEg_DaQmnkwRNxBL/s1600/IMG_20190716_131429.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6aweCWKBQx2eN6Do3NvP094YB1vvjvnc0v4l_mgLAc67WBdbmnreHh3EaF-GROPIqA-C7F_xC3B3MknKvjrwLw4psxyHvLgbg9bRjq324TnJtIqTcjUXLrO7_KybCBEg_DaQmnkwRNxBL/s640/IMG_20190716_131429.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We assumed the boardwalk is there to protect some endangered microbial environment. Or maybe it just gets really muddy when it rains?</td></tr>
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We eventually made it to Telok Pandan Kecil, the bay where we would meet our ride home. There was a stunning overlook built on top of a profoundly strange rock formation that looked more like mushrooms and tree roots than anything else.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJEW_2wUvvCtB9rLcuyO4AYIkN_60OxOzd9vZ42o8YzncqAv8zt7DwDcnr29NO7aOXbheXgeJ0BAR3vvTr5Mwx9Q1yvwv7aJKiKZBLrqP1RS8WLC9cY_QCI91Mu-naNEnDxPs45yd8ufx/s1600/IMG_20190716_132850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJEW_2wUvvCtB9rLcuyO4AYIkN_60OxOzd9vZ42o8YzncqAv8zt7DwDcnr29NO7aOXbheXgeJ0BAR3vvTr5Mwx9Q1yvwv7aJKiKZBLrqP1RS8WLC9cY_QCI91Mu-naNEnDxPs45yd8ufx/s640/IMG_20190716_132850.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danger Monkey rides again!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPWLH7kIJmiSAqYDRaVrm531jiTFKsaeuL8NduI88Bm4gF8nCvPMQ_tb70jDZzC7StedW8qFTmVeXjjY3qm89rAxWH1d9x9LKO6dWcIpC3eVUkbdLNLu0ENI3JtjGMITDc2Ot0tzXlYXPb/s1600/IMG_20190716_132928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPWLH7kIJmiSAqYDRaVrm531jiTFKsaeuL8NduI88Bm4gF8nCvPMQ_tb70jDZzC7StedW8qFTmVeXjjY3qm89rAxWH1d9x9LKO6dWcIpC3eVUkbdLNLu0ENI3JtjGMITDc2Ot0tzXlYXPb/s640/IMG_20190716_132928.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Non-zero chance that middle child is standing on an enormous alien brain</td></tr>
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We climbed down about 500 feet of rickety steps and spent some time cooling off in the ocean and exploring the cliffs and estuaries before getting back in the boat. On the way back we did some sightseeing of the geological formations that the guide insisted we see.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG-2NJ0zGhhAbbE1qHSlz-pYirHZzHKY0v2gkUcbXSKMb3IlMIPNBqNB3EqdtCtI9XmSpF1QPyDxvu_7QUvG6J67_-bSd2CCTsP2GVYd44Ukf98P0bB9gOBh11Xx8_Bn2LxfjIqos8hGs1/s1600/IMG_20190716_135506.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG-2NJ0zGhhAbbE1qHSlz-pYirHZzHKY0v2gkUcbXSKMb3IlMIPNBqNB3EqdtCtI9XmSpF1QPyDxvu_7QUvG6J67_-bSd2CCTsP2GVYd44Ukf98P0bB9gOBh11Xx8_Bn2LxfjIqos8hGs1/s640/IMG_20190716_135506.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mandatory tourist photo</td></tr>
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After getting back we called a car, zipped back to the hotel to collect our mountain of luggage, and then off to the airport where we found out our flight had been moved up an hour and we were the last ones to board! Luckily it was a small airport and the staff were amazingly helpful (Michael now considers his karmic relationship with Malaysia Airlines square after they stranded him in rural Malaysia on his birthday once) and so we were able to make it on board. We had a hop to Kuala Lumpur to change planes, and then a red-eye to Tokyo for our connection to Okinawa, the last stop on our trip!<br />
<br />Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-17601472463869370412019-08-29T09:00:00.000-07:002019-08-29T09:00:06.176-07:00The Long Way Home: Rainforest World Music Festival<br />The linch-pin of our entire trip back to the US was the Rainforest World Music Festival, a huge gathering of traditional musicians from all over the world for a 3-day event full of indiginous art, crafts, and of course music. It's held under the shadow of Mount Santubong at the Sarawak Cultural Village, about 45 minutes outside of Kuching. We were staying at a jungle resort a few minutes' walk down the road; close enough we could hear the sound check!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Obligatory<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWnvFeymOOtPAklS0Y7wfZpwZE3t2VJYlFzyBvLGLEMAIR_EgrCvjQ01mcqoNoCw6niCOUPnqgsQHil-4n2oMY0D6tbaWqozl3CveJWX_zi1lU2I5Px09BlE-45cd9r9trv8EAf8iFR8v/s1600/IMG_20190713_090757.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWnvFeymOOtPAklS0Y7wfZpwZE3t2VJYlFzyBvLGLEMAIR_EgrCvjQ01mcqoNoCw6niCOUPnqgsQHil-4n2oMY0D6tbaWqozl3CveJWX_zi1lU2I5Px09BlE-45cd9r9trv8EAf8iFR8v/s640/IMG_20190713_090757.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our digs. You can barely see our breakfast building peeking through the jungle...</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAKog7eUmoA-uYFPSpfV_XMp1mBQevjoouqTCLiTBDMS1knKToIFR6a-lHr_k0gZjLfpYh1klbrUClzG2XCgnYLWxNpHywnXFPXLb5S8MyzQtdxQ61c5SxPnenDHonjSLhN6IfjqvF26uc/s1600/GOPR1725.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAKog7eUmoA-uYFPSpfV_XMp1mBQevjoouqTCLiTBDMS1knKToIFR6a-lHr_k0gZjLfpYh1klbrUClzG2XCgnYLWxNpHywnXFPXLb5S8MyzQtdxQ61c5SxPnenDHonjSLhN6IfjqvF26uc/s640/GOPR1725.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Couldn't have asked for a better venue</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLIHPuO5zL7-1SkWmGqH0BSJ6k_QM8sD4s29TqbIT2gsrOno1MSCK7rjBGQyNpO9EgHzvFPxMHr593Cfc6BcgEH2_tDy9x3trkNbJTKj8ndYsUxuMAcKWlgw0afmoVkPJdZNBsU0SqWB7w/s1600/20190714_131013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLIHPuO5zL7-1SkWmGqH0BSJ6k_QM8sD4s29TqbIT2gsrOno1MSCK7rjBGQyNpO9EgHzvFPxMHr593Cfc6BcgEH2_tDy9x3trkNbJTKj8ndYsUxuMAcKWlgw0afmoVkPJdZNBsU0SqWB7w/s640/20190714_131013.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pretty relaxing, even on the busy days</td></tr>
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They had multiple stages with performances, introductory sessions for dance, drumming, and traditional instruments, panels with the musicians, and all sorts of great local food and hands-on crafts. The festival pays special attention to highlighting the culture of Sarawak, and over the last 20 years has been responsible for a huge surge in the local music scene of traditional instruments and styles.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz4PX-Y_0wzf_t_UdYcMi8e71Ce-4_JFlTBUpSnIbw27H194jDJBDN0q8IGMHHIfhy78hCX1pUiVOt4WroTNHQablL28XZe6WbikB2t6RyxvLV6CZkgY3NRRJa7UXuNLslqtp7mLegfeRq/s1600/GOPR1570.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz4PX-Y_0wzf_t_UdYcMi8e71Ce-4_JFlTBUpSnIbw27H194jDJBDN0q8IGMHHIfhy78hCX1pUiVOt4WroTNHQablL28XZe6WbikB2t6RyxvLV6CZkgY3NRRJa7UXuNLslqtp7mLegfeRq/s640/GOPR1570.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tribal dancers just chillin' in the background</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-XnI3-xN0fpmHvt6m-UtnG18gdEUfN42wJmvwMLyBkQ3z_lIXR_Kpi3SRgsp6xToiZVfTUeE5KOkL7Pbz9KaA81VNjOetDvWGSaR97Bxh2oIgQujdm_Zxu2WQHrqOMLl4SBkrH8yb9FdQ/s1600/GOPR1597.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-XnI3-xN0fpmHvt6m-UtnG18gdEUfN42wJmvwMLyBkQ3z_lIXR_Kpi3SRgsp6xToiZVfTUeE5KOkL7Pbz9KaA81VNjOetDvWGSaR97Bxh2oIgQujdm_Zxu2WQHrqOMLl4SBkrH8yb9FdQ/s640/GOPR1597.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chinese fan dancing lesson</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWzC6bow06izVCWaUMOQ31zC75J4Wxk2N-wikmuGP8gtZ45qEL4OCLr4eYcFJB2N4fmKEr81wZHqAZyudPS3m6ZBt6PUAIy5dyrXkeAOVp3dAVO-1Zocx-_G82Sz3hagsyltnpXD9XATHW/s1600/20190713_153017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWzC6bow06izVCWaUMOQ31zC75J4Wxk2N-wikmuGP8gtZ45qEL4OCLr4eYcFJB2N4fmKEr81wZHqAZyudPS3m6ZBt6PUAIy5dyrXkeAOVp3dAVO-1Zocx-_G82Sz3hagsyltnpXD9XATHW/s640/20190713_153017.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Middle Child shows off his skills with the Sape, the traditional stringed instrument of Sarawak</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP3iAGT1f1Lp6Uj57g1zZWZQD-w9czVZuDLPiWxVHONvbs6QRv5Exo74Ns0GT-GhAhPavI0rQgc0q-tJFzDYWDm8zTXi1el9dBC038G5F0TUIrGUElcdLKyEY63WV3IIPatVxlW7Dg8TPD/s1600/GOPR1598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP3iAGT1f1Lp6Uj57g1zZWZQD-w9czVZuDLPiWxVHONvbs6QRv5Exo74Ns0GT-GhAhPavI0rQgc0q-tJFzDYWDm8zTXi1el9dBC038G5F0TUIrGUElcdLKyEY63WV3IIPatVxlW7Dg8TPD/s640/GOPR1598.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Batik painting</td></tr>
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Our favorite bands were a Maori group called "Wai" that was a family band (down to the 10-year-old percussionist) that combined traditional songs and word games with a more modern hip-hop feel, Oki/Kila which was a collaboration between an Ainu tribesman from northern Japan (Oki) with a traditional Irish band (Kila) playing original music, and a group of string players calling themselves "The Violins of the World" which featured a french classical guitarist, a Swedish Nyckelharpa player, a Mongolian morin khuur (like a 2-string square cello) player, and Guo Gan, one of the world's premier erhu players all playing original compositions which frequently included Mongolian throat-singing.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oki on his own, thrashing on his electric tonkori</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1Ud4Y5PCy4ku9brS6FQkPNMdnZ_kzalUpU_ddJiyBOv6vNhKMQDLhSqnzfyJSuwMU904kc2YvsVbKN4oNg5OPH3jOMogi-J-QSkRLgak7v7ntAqWOpcNSr-Ewupj__tdyZIne6m0FLzU/s1600/20190712_172233%25280%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1Ud4Y5PCy4ku9brS6FQkPNMdnZ_kzalUpU_ddJiyBOv6vNhKMQDLhSqnzfyJSuwMU904kc2YvsVbKN4oNg5OPH3jOMogi-J-QSkRLgak7v7ntAqWOpcNSr-Ewupj__tdyZIne6m0FLzU/s640/20190712_172233%25280%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fangirl shot with Wai</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wai on the Theater Stage</td></tr>
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There was also a Chilean ballet company that had dedicated themselves to keeping alive the dance traditions of Rapa Nui (also known as Easter Island), a band from the Canary Islands, and a group from the Sangtam Naga tribe in northeastern India that had one foot in the Hindu cultures of the Indian subcontinent but also a foot in the indigenous animist cultures of south-east Asia demonstrating their traditional dances and songs. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sangtam Naga tribe doin' a dance</td></tr>
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Overall, there was an amazing amount going on at all times. Everywhere we turned there were world-class musicians and performers from every corner of the globe sharing their culture with an energy that pictures and youtube videos can't really convey. Some of the more energetic performers we caught:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Her Pineapple Majesty is being taught how to shake her hips by the band from Mauritius</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mandatory drum circle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Someone has music festivals figured out.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hell yeah.</td></tr>
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Almost done in Borneo! After the RWMF was done we had another two days in Kuching, so decided to visit the Bako national park. Stay tuned for the next post!Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-28793926337856555052019-08-27T09:04:00.000-07:002019-08-27T09:04:02.049-07:00The Long Way Home: Sarawak After leaving Kota Kinabalu in northern Borneo we took a "domestic" flight direct to the town of Kuching on the other side of Malaysian Borneo. I use the scare quotes because even though both airports are in Malaysia we still had to clear customs and immigration. Malaysia is a weird place.<br />
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Kuching was the capital of the state of Sarawak, historically interesting as one of a few places in SE Asia that had a western leader at the top of a traditional power structure, in this case the "White Rajah" Charles Brooke. Brooke was able to curry favor and a trade relationship with the coastal Iban tribespeople ("Iban" even means "Sea People"), convert them to Christianity, and outlaw their traditional head-hunting practices... unless they were head-hunting his adversaries in the Urang Ulu tribal federation (their name translates to "Inland People") in order to seize their land and resources. Over the course of about 60 years the Brooke family extended their control from a small initial foothold centered on Kuching to a state that covers over half of the Malaysian portion of Borneo. The Brooke Dynasty ruled Sarawak until it was ceded to the British crown at the end of World War 2.<br />
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Kuching today is the seat of the state assembly and home to a lovely (if touristy) riverfront district, which we explored after checking into our hotel and taking care of some chores. Across the river there is a cute lights-and-fountain show that runs once or twice a night, and an elaborate suspension bridge.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Ixf1VgD17P1w8kdL-uMyoSUn0Fz4id0kSLjQWgbAykd_aw4TRmKIBS01BaiHh-hhyXR3hIsECGpkiuutucrG0sl4MVKlCDQOz5CVUZi7PMp6plO1q5a-YpNbKiMPUFEMOJBVHxrkWgav/s1600/GOPR1409.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Ixf1VgD17P1w8kdL-uMyoSUn0Fz4id0kSLjQWgbAykd_aw4TRmKIBS01BaiHh-hhyXR3hIsECGpkiuutucrG0sl4MVKlCDQOz5CVUZi7PMp6plO1q5a-YpNbKiMPUFEMOJBVHxrkWgav/s640/GOPR1409.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This bridge was possibly the fanciest thing in town</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL-a4iLHHRzES5KbegD39HWLrXwW6ZhSiasz5HkhBmMMTzN_jVi7XBh9c7Gxn3eT8ozbWJXyap6c14QzQ_LoC-XCWPmOlj9uNgnYJDzEOW6F2Tai2jqC4KU4N6Sm-8T1KbQt6xZa7QYUhL/s1600/GOPR1416.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL-a4iLHHRzES5KbegD39HWLrXwW6ZhSiasz5HkhBmMMTzN_jVi7XBh9c7Gxn3eT8ozbWJXyap6c14QzQ_LoC-XCWPmOlj9uNgnYJDzEOW6F2Tai2jqC4KU4N6Sm-8T1KbQt6xZa7QYUhL/s640/GOPR1416.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oooh... Aaah...</td></tr>
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The next morning we were picked up to go trekking in the jungle and
spend the night in a jungle village in a (relatively) traditional
longhouse. On our way we visited a nearby Urang Utan ("Forest People")
preserve, where apes that have been driven out of their habitat by
agricultural expansion are able to live safely in their natural
environment. At least, relatively natural. There is food put out at
set times, and everyone (forest and tourist people) have learned to
congregate when that happens to get a glimpse of one another.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuySaXwLLyzV4H4LPfD2Rtx5yW7yr0qD2IX7fk49WlL_xRiy-UfI_2LX7oVVJysGhaIhojhoLGrSf0aOgJKpSZ-0n8TLUU6mC_ut3UTLtr05ia0FbAf8cP0uIhFW-jlf9q0SWB6J6dGauY/s1600/GOPR1425.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuySaXwLLyzV4H4LPfD2Rtx5yW7yr0qD2IX7fk49WlL_xRiy-UfI_2LX7oVVJysGhaIhojhoLGrSf0aOgJKpSZ-0n8TLUU6mC_ut3UTLtr05ia0FbAf8cP0uIhFW-jlf9q0SWB6J6dGauY/s640/GOPR1425.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coupla apes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb_gO8HHcgy5JhKZOvpUWFrlCN1KLY4_Pun7Glt001QWYxd853Os6YZlN7OlF7YLQgZUkw6t2AAUH4Qw24RgIaYGg-h9hwGKS2ck0UQP8a2mLnSfMgCf8WoutrVvE6MfErWpGQ3UaiHCXb/s1600/20190710_092201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb_gO8HHcgy5JhKZOvpUWFrlCN1KLY4_Pun7Glt001QWYxd853Os6YZlN7OlF7YLQgZUkw6t2AAUH4Qw24RgIaYGg-h9hwGKS2ck0UQP8a2mLnSfMgCf8WoutrVvE6MfErWpGQ3UaiHCXb/s640/20190710_092201.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots more apes.</td></tr>
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We were staying with members of the Bidayuh tribe, one of the inland
ethnic groups. We were set up in a semi-traditional longhouse, that had
a little more privacy and a little more structural steel than they
would have a hundred years ago. It was still pretty rustic, and had a lovely river nearby to relax in.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9MQ0p_zLpbjy5ME1Sc1sy0z_tM_xp9ixcNRbmQYRXmOKGA5pcdW2jMoBISW-lLuW9kjP104b7DMxwOE1SnvD3qBpsZEZvzQrePAFRX0NYUtlzudedjIVYyedtTpNOiVOCK-x1rglUAPaj/s1600/20190710_164137.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9MQ0p_zLpbjy5ME1Sc1sy0z_tM_xp9ixcNRbmQYRXmOKGA5pcdW2jMoBISW-lLuW9kjP104b7DMxwOE1SnvD3qBpsZEZvzQrePAFRX0NYUtlzudedjIVYyedtTpNOiVOCK-x1rglUAPaj/s640/20190710_164137.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danger Monkey was very slow crossing the rickety bamboo bridge. However slow you're imagining, she was slower.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvYFF_aZ-L71T65aD_lwO8xlPNuK62A9oomDYB9rK_diHbS8kPnI61_ER4ZdvKltIqTD3VFY412BuRTw0IsXLuRcNHPrMIEzsTUBWf2DH4ybEEQNU6JEOJqqggNWlkgUAeDn4VAyfPXlq/s1600/20190710_114211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvYFF_aZ-L71T65aD_lwO8xlPNuK62A9oomDYB9rK_diHbS8kPnI61_ER4ZdvKltIqTD3VFY412BuRTw0IsXLuRcNHPrMIEzsTUBWf2DH4ybEEQNU6JEOJqqggNWlkgUAeDn4VAyfPXlq/s640/20190710_114211.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two inner tubes and three children leads to ENDLESS FIGHTING</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo32hqqrC1GCuEmcVo1brf19rgStT_b_hhStPJfa_s_c5f6Bq6Bt-kuDesubPev6LWrSrkPBdz6FU2CHydy8atgQwpKw1JwE3Qh-4b6ZI_I7ijoM_gvWne99GBUg0t5yQPl4M_-zecvO4m/s1600/GOPR1436.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo32hqqrC1GCuEmcVo1brf19rgStT_b_hhStPJfa_s_c5f6Bq6Bt-kuDesubPev6LWrSrkPBdz6FU2CHydy8atgQwpKw1JwE3Qh-4b6ZI_I7ijoM_gvWne99GBUg0t5yQPl4M_-zecvO4m/s640/GOPR1436.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was apparently super low... during the rainy season this would be 2 feet higher</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBKDeruBdWqsClWRhrpsi_-VEaeGs22d9RoarmYyzDaBpwB_YAldHD1Ch5IX3xwOol_RxMw7rGWi9nWUaD82NrT5pROhdJQUQRoIzzG9LfOMu5noPegc5TxtkrhOCV-BrbyONiuBSAsS6c/s1600/20190710_111926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBKDeruBdWqsClWRhrpsi_-VEaeGs22d9RoarmYyzDaBpwB_YAldHD1Ch5IX3xwOol_RxMw7rGWi9nWUaD82NrT5pROhdJQUQRoIzzG9LfOMu5noPegc5TxtkrhOCV-BrbyONiuBSAsS6c/s640/20190710_111926.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just deep enough for lazy floating</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We went for a hike in the jungle with our guide Valentine told us about
how people used to survive in the jungle, the notable properties of
various plants (some were edible, some were poisonous, some felt like
burning, some cleared up the burning feeling from the other plant). It
was pretty tough going, but we eventually made our way to a locked and
fenced building deep in the jungle, which our guides unlocked to show us
their ancestral trophies.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLJxALV2_HjlUDx1DEEQEOKTD9fpsdh_s2EByhAlOFvEYRlkvdJl-OqxIYI0O37209jsaoHC2g7Q0UlkKqUBY6fs8uqaV2a8RHrrBGyi54C88FUIP9jJuI_rsZZnTUfj4g8svJQmOnamEM/s1600/20190710_155850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLJxALV2_HjlUDx1DEEQEOKTD9fpsdh_s2EByhAlOFvEYRlkvdJl-OqxIYI0O37209jsaoHC2g7Q0UlkKqUBY6fs8uqaV2a8RHrrBGyi54C88FUIP9jJuI_rsZZnTUfj4g8svJQmOnamEM/s640/20190710_155850.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were some seriously great trees.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1c1mHVp7WB7-oPPG8QhM6yH2zETWL0qN05t03p8_X1WPxvRznRqB56SlHa25mvnyxwCSNIW2oyPYOKNJYj0-wG_FY6K9Uq86graCQNydvhpfDMJqwSt2RALu3BMs-KLY3S6fE3nMC_TVL/s640/GOPR1454.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Intrepid!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR7drEt0Qt-i5nsjlq3p8RAaqCkLyCjiLaTWx8kqK0GgirAT1L13cJoOeIKAV_ncLLp1tb6BZg5pW9K4hyphenhyphenr8hdjpePOk7RU7p7a0OCTUsg4-XvwXZK4vWOXeDF9X9hUgfxPRUR2Hv-y0EJ/s1600/GOPR1448.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR7drEt0Qt-i5nsjlq3p8RAaqCkLyCjiLaTWx8kqK0GgirAT1L13cJoOeIKAV_ncLLp1tb6BZg5pW9K4hyphenhyphenr8hdjpePOk7RU7p7a0OCTUsg4-XvwXZK4vWOXeDF9X9hUgfxPRUR2Hv-y0EJ/s640/GOPR1448.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Middle Child: "Is that a cow skull?"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
The practice of head-hunting on Borneo was one of religious and
cultural significance, and although it has been on the decline since
they established contact with the outside world it still experiences
brief resurgences of popularity during periods of increased violence
(notably during World War 2 and the <i>Konfrantasi</i>, the conflict
between Indonsia and Malaysia in the early 1960's). Some tribes gave up
the practice all together, while others substituted coconuts as
stand-in heads for their rituals. We were assured that these skulls
were over a hundred years old.<br />
<br />
Afterwards, and with a
new appreciation for the ancestry of our amiable and cheerful guides, we
hiked to a waterfall for a swim. As always, there is nothing better
than swimming in a waterfall.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQ8-R6jpwmfy_EPRLuaoFIoJKNBzM_suoQwLtNSQBUi_Rpzr_OeOyd0_ZvgsriaH4ShKNcxt_TVBXiVsLr4FtLMM532sRNpaYb7ir3Dov4bR8O3h7PQ-NBn75tVXt77AemZvwx2L2ptBc/s1600/20190710_152652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQ8-R6jpwmfy_EPRLuaoFIoJKNBzM_suoQwLtNSQBUi_Rpzr_OeOyd0_ZvgsriaH4ShKNcxt_TVBXiVsLr4FtLMM532sRNpaYb7ir3Dov4bR8O3h7PQ-NBn75tVXt77AemZvwx2L2ptBc/s640/20190710_152652.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our guides kept trying to talk us out of doing fun things, like scrambling down this cliff</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihcQdyIjhHS7rC6CJtfEULM5KVDWsc3Tj-ffHZ6OLFTXoi08UDvYiSAOb2UaBL2Husd5m3zheSK2PUf2MGI9zH0MWrEQG09BamnN4XdrlFPKDqtxOBgW3VhqC5FawD9HW1635tTjEDwhb1/s1600/20190710_154205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihcQdyIjhHS7rC6CJtfEULM5KVDWsc3Tj-ffHZ6OLFTXoi08UDvYiSAOb2UaBL2Husd5m3zheSK2PUf2MGI9zH0MWrEQG09BamnN4XdrlFPKDqtxOBgW3VhqC5FawD9HW1635tTjEDwhb1/s640/20190710_154205.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I cannot overstate how cold this water was</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGi08xcAuCzWjvT9QNcSYxNkDU6h7gqhXYVjJGaKKNfu9OcHHP1OVjsM-CcXeF8LGigLzXZpUvs5RkM1rGxBzZJyTGpts2aGKOItss792WA7rNq9LOB_iarpsXP7-McJOrlYkguJJQqp7A/s1600/20190710_160102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGi08xcAuCzWjvT9QNcSYxNkDU6h7gqhXYVjJGaKKNfu9OcHHP1OVjsM-CcXeF8LGigLzXZpUvs5RkM1rGxBzZJyTGpts2aGKOItss792WA7rNq9LOB_iarpsXP7-McJOrlYkguJJQqp7A/s640/20190710_160102.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jungle elves!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Finally we hiked back to the longhouse, enjoyed a delicious dinner of
local delicacies, and got some dance lessons from the villagers. The
accompanying music was played by the village elders on an assortment of
gongs and cymbals.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAT8SElhUYS5m23nUMVzWBIu5CCziTPmLhV_gsA8telGESKoBcrlnIrj8zHs6U9b3lJ6-NbdH9JijbnzakezD54aojz8qtQEkpJsZK4TC6k8xYiBYVVFErqaFHc-htJmO7AVrdX_hwjucw/s1600/20190710_204208.mp4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAT8SElhUYS5m23nUMVzWBIu5CCziTPmLhV_gsA8telGESKoBcrlnIrj8zHs6U9b3lJ6-NbdH9JijbnzakezD54aojz8qtQEkpJsZK4TC6k8xYiBYVVFErqaFHc-htJmO7AVrdX_hwjucw/s640/20190710_204208.mp4" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Finally, once we had all proven our mettle, we settled in and hung
out swapping stories over shots of rice whiskey and wine made from
peppercorns. We made friends with "Batman", who would be our river
guide the following day.<br />
<br />
After waking up and eating an
enormous breakfast, we hopped in the back of a truck and drove off to a
good place to put in to the river. We would be riding rafts made of
dried bamboo, lashed together with strips of green bamboo, poled along
with long, thin bamboo poles.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9CDcA3DemVoJ5aYoRPninxod8eibFN8LpqQIN2tHlNzerS94mX1Ltg72CQiEho2ofd6HOnBe2-y8HimFBWh7KIlaiLSVLfpKgVKNGhArCMQiNLeSDdH8_PvdK09vhrxgdIJj-98beL64J/s1600/GOPR1471.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9CDcA3DemVoJ5aYoRPninxod8eibFN8LpqQIN2tHlNzerS94mX1Ltg72CQiEho2ofd6HOnBe2-y8HimFBWh7KIlaiLSVLfpKgVKNGhArCMQiNLeSDdH8_PvdK09vhrxgdIJj-98beL64J/s640/GOPR1471.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Building the raft at a convenient ford</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Lgoq6HkF7dqPLx-5XX4hz9AjmIzbAJvRDQpy51VKI3BuRaati_oIQ8vwPGCl-ZnfFADtyFStI7FAoDqagZ3XT0fbJr9Me0yCPfxxYUzOfG889yi0zk8RpBD3N785afWQFGRZq5YuDnRe/s1600/GOPR1481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Lgoq6HkF7dqPLx-5XX4hz9AjmIzbAJvRDQpy51VKI3BuRaati_oIQ8vwPGCl-ZnfFADtyFStI7FAoDqagZ3XT0fbJr9Me0yCPfxxYUzOfG889yi0zk8RpBD3N785afWQFGRZq5YuDnRe/s640/GOPR1481.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's hard to convey just how quiet it was</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWyROW3hYAKXHLCqbq9IBzHrdMkkYAdZZz1jp11memcCtRUauQhSx3EUbo8qVm0WBrk4x0I6AgfN3NnLgF2sIi2a8XsWm2Pl8MdIxe-gfFoREJAO0RnLbpdwRCYuor_rctpTdNeuXPcSci/s1600/GOPR1505.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWyROW3hYAKXHLCqbq9IBzHrdMkkYAdZZz1jp11memcCtRUauQhSx3EUbo8qVm0WBrk4x0I6AgfN3NnLgF2sIi2a8XsWm2Pl8MdIxe-gfFoREJAO0RnLbpdwRCYuor_rctpTdNeuXPcSci/s640/GOPR1505.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Someone got hold of the camera... and it wasn't Danger Monkey!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We traveled through the most amazing jungle imaginable, through
stands of (you guessed it) bamboo and under archways of strangler fig.
The banks were covered in ferns, palms, ironwood trees, and strung with
vines. Michael and Her Pineapple Majesty rode with Batman, who was a
pretty committed comedian. We all got super hero names, and he
frequently passed the rice whiskey around.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgReB6Iqy_JSsegjSPjnQD3RMHXwthQN5GlwTkxIHezyTat_1l8-fLTMxU89EjL7oWRKmcIXA2_P_TceC5otY5U6K3D1nvCsImCDJ9mxpIxUZAY83RX2RSWh6lj9_RYFSTze9Zql8Pi_kSM/s1600/GOPR1551.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgReB6Iqy_JSsegjSPjnQD3RMHXwthQN5GlwTkxIHezyTat_1l8-fLTMxU89EjL7oWRKmcIXA2_P_TceC5otY5U6K3D1nvCsImCDJ9mxpIxUZAY83RX2RSWh6lj9_RYFSTze9Zql8Pi_kSM/s640/GOPR1551.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rare shot of Batman when he's not showing off his belly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After awhile
we stopped for lunch (bamboo shoots cooked inside of bamboo tubes over a
bamboo fire... also some pork and rice) and the kids played with
burning sticks.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3DWvr4tIvZSQG0Q6sXBQfhSPg5f9NvAeKiL0ctTyCHZ1EqEnCdQbyDfJGCkppf5Lu6GIme0KoZAnx9rzrqJV78mbppIypJTUZcOEna-PwPtGR21F7YP2yqkoTf0N2HnenlWegwUl1eaQC/s1600/GOPR1556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3DWvr4tIvZSQG0Q6sXBQfhSPg5f9NvAeKiL0ctTyCHZ1EqEnCdQbyDfJGCkppf5Lu6GIme0KoZAnx9rzrqJV78mbppIypJTUZcOEna-PwPtGR21F7YP2yqkoTf0N2HnenlWegwUl1eaQC/s640/GOPR1556.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Food boat beats food truck</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGpHD0qM59FDYK7ecXAs7HDUFsXz_JT_Hg4yKnyy2r9Y3HpwsdtA277hj1DqMB4COcWG5CAK561psSYPOBNOCkpu9rfaQsBrzUZ2SbKl6OgEmw5PPDKPRCcTGoKOKx0B2NTZI_vCffDuUy/s1600/GOPR1558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1410" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGpHD0qM59FDYK7ecXAs7HDUFsXz_JT_Hg4yKnyy2r9Y3HpwsdtA277hj1DqMB4COcWG5CAK561psSYPOBNOCkpu9rfaQsBrzUZ2SbKl6OgEmw5PPDKPRCcTGoKOKx0B2NTZI_vCffDuUy/s640/GOPR1558.JPG" width="562" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luckily he was not catapaulted into the forest when Michael let go of the branch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We had come across log jams that our guides had to machete their way
through occasionally, but after lunch we came to the mother of all log
jams - 100 meters of jumbled bamboo blocking our path. They spent about
90 minutes chopping their way through, one log at a time. A sharp
machete can make pretty short work of even thick bamboo, but everyone
was pretty wiped by the time we finally got through.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ppw8KPlViSTKOvZ7uLdCTvdwMUnyfhJUUuuVUJwf5leHT2IfEBeVeaAEnUr1X09rrYYEA24meIWdb_hAfcqlANypD6kMl9YgMYpCV2IflelMsLyOrrCyBeXJQbWi-SmfMdmDkarE92Nl/s1600/GOPR1566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ppw8KPlViSTKOvZ7uLdCTvdwMUnyfhJUUuuVUJwf5leHT2IfEBeVeaAEnUr1X09rrYYEA24meIWdb_hAfcqlANypD6kMl9YgMYpCV2IflelMsLyOrrCyBeXJQbWi-SmfMdmDkarE92Nl/s640/GOPR1566.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thassa lotta logs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We're pretty sure some of our traveling companions missed their flight as a result of the mega jam, but they seemed to be in pretty good spirits still. If everything went according to plan, it wouldn't be an adventure!<br />
<br />
After we eventually got back to our hotel in Kuching we collapsed and re-packed in preparation for three days at the Rainforest World Music Festival!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-5796130035190551612019-07-28T15:48:00.000-07:002019-07-28T15:48:03.020-07:00The Long Way Home: Northern Borneo<br />
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Our only fixed point
in our 5+ week trip was a world music festival on Borneo, and we
decided to spend a fair amount of time on the Malaysian side of the
island beforehand.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiIQmiv4_qY9WKBrM8RRYHkcWO7b6quVpcwnonZwwb4FhO53xqtkAq6hlA4W-7Bj-IVI475q1PW_TeaZSV9XJsDJALk8At3n9GA7lY3g7w1d3aa7hcfqlDtNS939OsvBJfUepik1B8Zs9H/s1600/borneo_map.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="977" data-original-width="1233" height="506" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiIQmiv4_qY9WKBrM8RRYHkcWO7b6quVpcwnonZwwb4FhO53xqtkAq6hlA4W-7Bj-IVI475q1PW_TeaZSV9XJsDJALk8At3n9GA7lY3g7w1d3aa7hcfqlDtNS939OsvBJfUepik1B8Zs9H/s640/borneo_map.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turns out, no one we talk to knows where Borneo is. It's the great big island in the middle of South-east Asia.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Borneo is the third largest island in the world,
and home to an amazing ecological and cultural diversity. It was
one of the few places on earth that resisted traditional western
colonialism in the 19<sup>th</sup> century, largely due to it’s
incredibly rugged terrain and fierce head-hunting indigenous tribes.
Malaysia has an interesting history, and has only existed in it’s
present form since about 1965. It was formed by the gradual
accretion of independent British colonies from peninsular Malaya, and
then later the addition of Singapore, North Borneo (now known as the
Malaysian state of Sabah), and Sarawak (also on Borneo). Singapore
didn’t stay at the party for long, but the Bornean(Bornesian?)
states of Sabah and Sarawak still maintain a high level of autonomy,
and even required immigration screening even though we were coming
from Kuala Lumpur on the mainland.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Our first stop in
Borneo was on the northern end, flying into the small city of Kota
Kinabalu in Sabah, and then undertaking the most dangerous and
hair-raising part of our entire trip: driving.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG05OgY0xO8XRPGY3rA8GQIhqaEADJqVg5ndlDhlsLN9aQ75j97OZZnwaww376UUE3jHpY86nKmebldzwM6i-CL3k3N_NqEFalEjMAM5fohT0pDYg7XL1MnE2em8c4KHlilfWj0lAstg1J/s1600/20190708_132423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG05OgY0xO8XRPGY3rA8GQIhqaEADJqVg5ndlDhlsLN9aQ75j97OZZnwaww376UUE3jHpY86nKmebldzwM6i-CL3k3N_NqEFalEjMAM5fohT0pDYg7XL1MnE2em8c4KHlilfWj0lAstg1J/s640/20190708_132423.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our noble steed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
We picked up our
rental car at the airport when we landed late in the evening, which
requires a surprising number of WhatsApp messages and phone-calls.
We put down a 300 Ringit depost (about $80 USD), and they handed us
the keys. Slightly terrifying! Michael did an admirable job getting
to the hotel for the night in the middle of a tourist district, where
we crashed until morning. Borneo is (or was) a tourism hub for
peninsular Malaysia, and there were not a lot of western affordances.
The next morning we got some breakfast at a kopitiam (SE Asian
coffee shop) around the corner, bought some inscrutable fruit at the
vegetable and t-shirt market that had sprung up around our hotel
during the night, and hopped back in the car.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid2H5JKrWtaUlaf0Aet6TLD_EdIB9k3l1N90a_ZidkZs7O9yxyoJZS5uumxjxycTTyNAgellyZm5c5yw7zPtOJXka33KK9W8fgM2EJetdCeZ9eO9bI1W6c5GnN5uJOzdnVIirmzNwrYbsA/s1600/20190707_073653.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid2H5JKrWtaUlaf0Aet6TLD_EdIB9k3l1N90a_ZidkZs7O9yxyoJZS5uumxjxycTTyNAgellyZm5c5yw7zPtOJXka33KK9W8fgM2EJetdCeZ9eO9bI1W6c5GnN5uJOzdnVIirmzNwrYbsA/s640/20190707_073653.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snakefruit and Cristal and Lychee!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Our destination was
Mount Kinabalu (which is probably technically redundant), the tallest
mountain between the Himalayas and Papa New Guinea, where we were
planning on staying at a farmstay lodge and doing some hiking in the
jungle. It was about a hundred kilometers away, and we drove along
the coast for a short ways and then cut inland up narrow winding
mountain roads, which at the time we thought were pretty bad.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Along the way we
stopped at a tourist market and viewpoint to let the kids run around
for a bit, and since our check-in wasn’t for a few hours went to
the national park and hiked around the trails at the base of the
mountain.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADPZHbeQXS6H-pYD5S57bUai56kw2uj1bavJLylVNITLyUVM2VF2AdfXPJLXIyzEbzeaYXKx6XUqQiYOHu0PtSjBLf4XLUiV3_1fP_AvkAbgEmvjgJwg2a6Trfhojt5QliFEA8_RWr-fO/s1600/20190707_110621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADPZHbeQXS6H-pYD5S57bUai56kw2uj1bavJLylVNITLyUVM2VF2AdfXPJLXIyzEbzeaYXKx6XUqQiYOHu0PtSjBLf4XLUiV3_1fP_AvkAbgEmvjgJwg2a6Trfhojt5QliFEA8_RWr-fO/s640/20190707_110621.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Borcherts love maps.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9H2aETZ7Bco1jKOXwCWrdF_gTvIJ7cg-BXTu2tmhAx6nSTVdp5E2dt_YNi_Ka2ny54Eb1dgiP2pXsmL9PpGI3IWGmLxGsmxAVT79D-t2DdXEP2lJzQCRD3NeJuKHGtuXw5w0qRTjwO7sy/s1600/20190707_123922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9H2aETZ7Bco1jKOXwCWrdF_gTvIJ7cg-BXTu2tmhAx6nSTVdp5E2dt_YNi_Ka2ny54Eb1dgiP2pXsmL9PpGI3IWGmLxGsmxAVT79D-t2DdXEP2lJzQCRD3NeJuKHGtuXw5w0qRTjwO7sy/s640/20190707_123922.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool mushrooms in the jungle.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Finally, tired out
from hiking to the summit of various foothills and along jungle
rivers, we drove to our lodge. By this point we had discovered that
none of our international wireless plans worked in the Borneo
interior, and we had exhausted the saved map data that our phones had
downloaded when we were back on the coast. With nothing but a crude
hand-drawn map that the lodge had WhatsApp’d to Michael we set off.
As soon as we turned off the main road we experienced the worst
roads that we have ever seen in our lives. Forty-five degree slopes
on the switchbacks as we descended into a valley, dodging
suspension-destroying wash-outs and free-ranging cows, ascended the
other side, and then turned off onto an even smaller and worse gravel
road when we saw a sign for our lodge. We regret not getting any
pictures or video of the drive, but we were busy trying to survive
it.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
The lodge was
rustic, with many cats. We had to shoo some large butterflies out of
our room before closing the windows, but the view of the mountain
and the night sky were truly incredible.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
The next morning we
risked life and limb on the drive back to the main road, and visited
the mountain again. This time we drove up the road towards the
summit as far as we could go, and then got out and hiked around. The
trail beyond the gate we were at is not really maintained, and going
any further required a two-day-one-night hiking permit and a
park-certified guide. We didn’t think Danger Monkey. despite her
nickname. would appreciate an <u>actually</u><span style="text-decoration: none;">
dangerous mountain ascent, so we settled for feeding some squirrels
with the Chinese tourists.</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibipt79tit2ZTpl6wW7PNlb8NtDoHx-6-vs1Iv9-Y-mQAzlweGMQ1KLj_voqMolzEdddraNiPXTCiQZAjGqa7xKGDBDmQjO6UQc__6zjXJ86nr9l3aAEWNn5onKwXzAnzguVhE0xg-eyUM/s1600/GOPR1296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibipt79tit2ZTpl6wW7PNlb8NtDoHx-6-vs1Iv9-Y-mQAzlweGMQ1KLj_voqMolzEdddraNiPXTCiQZAjGqa7xKGDBDmQjO6UQc__6zjXJ86nr9l3aAEWNn5onKwXzAnzguVhE0xg-eyUM/s640/GOPR1296.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The best views were probably while we were driving, of course.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip_TujwlcX3Q450dbyZxJOdv5kXvzty-aLhBBpow2e-fcxqpULmBTHoi7DBPdX74arcFkvBNCt2QjMepa6cgy19Z5srYWqalcGCiYk3YE8q3TOedg4fU4fWzdTmYcn1SrIC8sTpUIEUXkj/s1600/GOPR1287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip_TujwlcX3Q450dbyZxJOdv5kXvzty-aLhBBpow2e-fcxqpULmBTHoi7DBPdX74arcFkvBNCt2QjMepa6cgy19Z5srYWqalcGCiYk3YE8q3TOedg4fU4fWzdTmYcn1SrIC8sTpUIEUXkj/s640/GOPR1287.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Well fed rodents</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;">From
an American ex-pat family we had met the previous day in a rest hut
we heard that somewhere further down the road was the Sabah Tea
Plantation, a tourist attraction built around the local tea industry.
The </span><span style="text-decoration: none;">other</span><span style="text-decoration: none;">
family had been living in Sabah for 7 years, and it was actually the
first time they’d visited the national park but they </span><span style="text-decoration: none;">apparently
visited the tea plantation all the time, so we figured it was worth a
trip. We headed down the road, past the township capital (a town
with about 8 roads and lots of little shops selling hardware,
clothing, and electronics). All along the road we had been seeing
hand-painted signs for an “Arnab Village”. Which sounded to us
like it must be some sort of ethnic village or tourist attraction or
something, and so when we finally saw a sign for a turn-off to the
Arnab Village we figured we’d see what all the fuss was about. It
turned out to be a village alright, but a village for rabbits, guinea
pigs, and hamsters.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFR4GtAu3NC-kwlWHu5tiyW117qWwIQfFh-Wm5KcqUZ8-jGTWNnvLxIVV3kowDvJhWTpJ1DbJrmV3uMGsZd4Lxem7u3Nvnw7HsNufzRV6qG4zc61YpmahdWLmrQ_upVnPlFaPqUriDt2Gx/s1600/20190708_121238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFR4GtAu3NC-kwlWHu5tiyW117qWwIQfFh-Wm5KcqUZ8-jGTWNnvLxIVV3kowDvJhWTpJ1DbJrmV3uMGsZd4Lxem7u3Nvnw7HsNufzRV6qG4zc61YpmahdWLmrQ_upVnPlFaPqUriDt2Gx/s640/20190708_121238.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Probably seen better days?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;">It
was like a petting zoo extravaganza, with 4 parks in 1! We splurged
on the all-access pass (10 Ringit, or ~$2.50 USD per person) to see
the guinea pig and hamsters of the world (they were living on and
around crude dioramas of world monuments), the rabbit village, </span><span style="text-decoration: none;">the
baby bunny pen (though to our eye they looked just as full-grown as
the “regular” bunnies) and Cat Mania! Which had various breeds
of cats </span><span style="text-decoration: none;">loose</span><span style="text-decoration: none;">
in a big room. There was also a snack stall and gift shop, though
sadly it was only selling generic bunny-themed merchandise and no
Arnab Village branded souvenirs. The kids fed the animals, washed
their hands thoroughly, and we ate a picnic lunch.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJNX0ih53Xv5rSYPOiYJWwOj8iFUrTqZhEWIsLhd5qwytBKYM0dNyhX2CJRqpIaM2b9Pj5SVYbZohEC33bAOD2RRD4BNuLQagSrxoE-Qbc8aPpqSX5FZRDNmzvWDnonULZ5HjFuO_Om_VR/s1600/20190708_120938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJNX0ih53Xv5rSYPOiYJWwOj8iFUrTqZhEWIsLhd5qwytBKYM0dNyhX2CJRqpIaM2b9Pj5SVYbZohEC33bAOD2RRD4BNuLQagSrxoE-Qbc8aPpqSX5FZRDNmzvWDnonULZ5HjFuO_Om_VR/s640/20190708_120938.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a "Robbit" house! GET IT?!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifp7maFYUMQr9YJnCD8NT3bNXdKlgR_LDuqeuucne6aYjbvNOrJc1czryoL-qaj7rfYwzsrzUFacON6Po2OxDbKxTaKAcB9j5YEoIJlI59Yvi2Mu5MsI3LQDGzWabkeTWFr94FXfsU2IpW/s1600/20190708_125008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifp7maFYUMQr9YJnCD8NT3bNXdKlgR_LDuqeuucne6aYjbvNOrJc1czryoL-qaj7rfYwzsrzUFacON6Po2OxDbKxTaKAcB9j5YEoIJlI59Yvi2Mu5MsI3LQDGzWabkeTWFr94FXfsU2IpW/s640/20190708_125008.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Such kitten.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbfGZL4NzTeY4d6q5KQowne0jghSkCfvg5X0LNsnh3exHEJAzQZ_0cz3JMW-If6lI9tOQtV1F6oXQKcllNGyQJnbLC0ceotSg65INaWmcJ12bYC3ejeuetUmN44mevRqNg8h4gEaky8823/s1600/GOPR1309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbfGZL4NzTeY4d6q5KQowne0jghSkCfvg5X0LNsnh3exHEJAzQZ_0cz3JMW-If6lI9tOQtV1F6oXQKcllNGyQJnbLC0ceotSg65INaWmcJ12bYC3ejeuetUmN44mevRqNg8h4gEaky8823/s640/GOPR1309.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy kids and indifferent bunnies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;">After
lunch we continued on, took a couple dubious detours through some
other </span><span style="text-decoration: none;">very small</span><span style="text-decoration: none;">
towns, and eventually made it to the Sabah Tea Plantation! Where...
we had some tea, and took a short walk through their tea plantation.
There was also a janky tree house that we paid 3 ringit to climb up
to, and signs indicating there were sometimes guided tours of the
industrial tea drying facility but we couldn’t figure out how to
make that happen. The tea was quite tasty, and we made an afternoon
break of it with some fried and steamed bananas.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvQx4ZRlAzFEuGkzrONwJcH3P1aT-S2FEvbfMAycFKg3YD0WxrBDDPx0-03_iODhTea0nSGq2K7VgRtW2dnEkWHTkHHZifBR5T5WDwWAYdSGUfW31FadNUj9_OBUD0jH9z4y7uXZ2_nY8s/s1600/20190708_150710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvQx4ZRlAzFEuGkzrONwJcH3P1aT-S2FEvbfMAycFKg3YD0WxrBDDPx0-03_iODhTea0nSGq2K7VgRtW2dnEkWHTkHHZifBR5T5WDwWAYdSGUfW31FadNUj9_OBUD0jH9z4y7uXZ2_nY8s/s640/20190708_150710.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you leave the roped path the carnivorous tea plants will eat you.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihsj7lne1P64ELnyPkVu-B-68D2eJKPnBklom8evcVkdYUYubirbKp_xAehQMxU_Eue8io46BDsuJH0GsM2zsnqMdHIHJewAmRK3nAIWRnQElHcK4XrHYxr4ZLa_mzDNOUVX3_aC3Ay6XQ/s1600/20190708_150349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihsj7lne1P64ELnyPkVu-B-68D2eJKPnBklom8evcVkdYUYubirbKp_xAehQMxU_Eue8io46BDsuJH0GsM2zsnqMdHIHJewAmRK3nAIWRnQElHcK4XrHYxr4ZLa_mzDNOUVX3_aC3Ay6XQ/s640/20190708_150349.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charismatic megafauna</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIYSYDUVZ7ovv-8tlfT9rjB54VLMKvAW3vAx5U3cNHxtbH2jetF-xZIbUZ6PF6t5vFPqgjGVLXGsRl0KUaVmaRwP8SOcjl57vvzwmentBfI_sedVTK6gSgxjbSosT1IA_zVSLYSqqfNzEg/s1600/GOPR1325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIYSYDUVZ7ovv-8tlfT9rjB54VLMKvAW3vAx5U3cNHxtbH2jetF-xZIbUZ6PF6t5vFPqgjGVLXGsRl0KUaVmaRwP8SOcjl57vvzwmentBfI_sedVTK6gSgxjbSosT1IA_zVSLYSqqfNzEg/s640/GOPR1325.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Safety and liability are largely western constructs.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieE2ji94M3GJ0-TKNLqYPcEeiFwbYouJP7EiYqAGF_QwrIPfe8dfjqKULITCFHtcCL-EQa7WoW8BM1zxVrAg_AoceohN-yYuR_14CW5Pc43345acImE29AJiBJKIdZVtYgCwDYJf6YoC-s/s1600/GOPR1329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieE2ji94M3GJ0-TKNLqYPcEeiFwbYouJP7EiYqAGF_QwrIPfe8dfjqKULITCFHtcCL-EQa7WoW8BM1zxVrAg_AoceohN-yYuR_14CW5Pc43345acImE29AJiBJKIdZVtYgCwDYJf6YoC-s/s640/GOPR1329.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classy!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
On our way back to the lodge for the night we had dinner at a
restaurant that was made out of piles of old buses, and watched the
sunset on the mountain while the kids explored the caged birds and
flower gardens.<br />
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_QiBOuTlezIvOAzEkFhJncwO-c3qwWO04uSawtFzl2-WqknnGMNfym38i2LNqoHI4yRnNBnu2vucuWjVWybUCdCYpvT5xHppp4zgd7Bp7ukjabObC-CYd54k_IaZyY3z1Q15rHkILnpIE/s1600/GOPR1389.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_QiBOuTlezIvOAzEkFhJncwO-c3qwWO04uSawtFzl2-WqknnGMNfym38i2LNqoHI4yRnNBnu2vucuWjVWybUCdCYpvT5xHppp4zgd7Bp7ukjabObC-CYd54k_IaZyY3z1Q15rHkILnpIE/s640/GOPR1389.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wacky shenanigans and decent food</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;">The
next morning we were up just before dawn to drive to the airport,
where we took the only “domestic” flight of our entire trip to
fly to the other end of Borneo to visit Kuching and attend the
Rainforest World Music Festival. </span><span style="text-decoration: none;">Our
visit to Sabah was interesting, partially because it was the leg of
the trip where we felt most disconnected from the people and culture
of where we were. Michael attributes this to it being the only
place where we had a car, and so were not at the mercy of local
guides, bus schedules, and toddler-paced walking. It certainly made
us think about how we are used to traveling in the US, and whether or
not we would have a more interesting time if we just drove less.</span><br />
<br />
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</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<style type="text/css">p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; }</style>Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-71729486406088307162019-07-20T05:18:00.000-07:002019-07-20T05:18:00.515-07:00The Long Way Home: Bali<br />
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
We spent 5 days in
Bali, one of our longest stops on the trip. Bali, a relatively small
volcanic island in the Indonesian archipelago with 6 million
inhabitants, has become a pretty standard vacation destination for
Australians and South-East Asians, and has become known for it’s
white sand beaches, ornate and enormous temple complexes, and yoga
retreats. We did almost none of those things, and fled the touristy
southern part of the island almost immediately to a 12-room beach
hotel on the north side of the island.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
We were treated to a
3.5 hour drive over bumpy winding roads crossing the central spine of
the island, and got some amazing views of one of the two main
volcanoes on the island. We eventually arrived at our
nearly-deserted resort after dark with hungry kids. Whoops!</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
The next day we got
our bearings, and Michael made inquiries about local scuba diving
options. After breakfast and some decompression time we hiked up the
black sand beach to explore! Google showed a couple of other small
resorts and retreat centers along this strip of shoreline, but they
all appeared to be either closed up for the season or booked for
private events. A ways down the beach we found a religious ritual in
progress, and one of the men at the back minding children chatted
with us a bit. This was the Balinese version of a christening,
blessing a new baby.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg72bbfBHlay0HG288IN79TABZPhjDnKFIId3WF4q9elFH2ZHwpiQNVSvKztBPd-IeB67u6KjLAWYWCLdBAkQh_hkSegK0Q1BvV1B0b2A-xYsst4req5DuqVH6T-ZewZ3OKA5BxwOhr5EE6/s1600/IMG_20190703_115530.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg72bbfBHlay0HG288IN79TABZPhjDnKFIId3WF4q9elFH2ZHwpiQNVSvKztBPd-IeB67u6KjLAWYWCLdBAkQh_hkSegK0Q1BvV1B0b2A-xYsst4req5DuqVH6T-ZewZ3OKA5BxwOhr5EE6/s640/IMG_20190703_115530.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sadly, no boat ride for us.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Although Indonesia
is predominantly a Muslim country, each island was allowed to choose
it’s own “official” religion. Bali voted for Hindu, however it
is a Hinduism heavily flavored with elements of Chinese ancestor
worship, and native animism that places special emphasis on the
spirits of the volcanoes and the ocean. Statues and pedestals are
wrapped in a black and white plaid cloth to represent the “duality”
and many of the ornately carved pedestals are left empty as a
reminder that spirits are everywhere.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsAEiHbCpheOoBHTl-xM8uTsAGKJNBqXdTYiDCZfC0zHvU-Cv33tKOFmvqtLm-sTQWbyQ903ezD3d_J_PulhSkMbexkvVDSMIu0jy7rxP22t656LGfCySn-EEh9-NpRYERBFk7qSBdL15N/s1600/IMG_20190703_130956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsAEiHbCpheOoBHTl-xM8uTsAGKJNBqXdTYiDCZfC0zHvU-Cv33tKOFmvqtLm-sTQWbyQ903ezD3d_J_PulhSkMbexkvVDSMIu0jy7rxP22t656LGfCySn-EEh9-NpRYERBFk7qSBdL15N/s640/IMG_20190703_130956.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Family shrines and temples are everywhere.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtoiSoXsedpQY_ZT9L4dDUbVIzsxqU21GFDM_smnFlCAIMOwQ3iMadY4r1yqw1GfSOyQMEHu2Iw-0bzohaSxcKqSLENzKkSy1ybN7yJRNjps-mUSGy2brtxJ8LSwsxmt6OZOx1nlUfzQgD/s1600/IMG_20190705_101920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtoiSoXsedpQY_ZT9L4dDUbVIzsxqU21GFDM_smnFlCAIMOwQ3iMadY4r1yqw1GfSOyQMEHu2Iw-0bzohaSxcKqSLENzKkSy1ybN7yJRNjps-mUSGy2brtxJ8LSwsxmt6OZOx1nlUfzQgD/s640/IMG_20190705_101920.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Literally everywhere.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
We hiked up the
street that led to the oceanfront worship area and into the town of
Bondalem, where we grabbed some water from a shop and met Potok, who
spoke a fair amount of English and was a bit of a local tour guide
and booster. He walked with us up to the intersection with the main
road and pointed out the market (closed now, only open from 4 til 8
AM), the local football field (He was the coach of the team, and
they had a match against the neighboring town the next day), and
invited us to a wedding (a local boy was marrying a girl from a few
towns over and the big ceremony was the next morning). He also
introduced us to the owner of a “warung”, a sort of Indonesian
fast-food stall where they have prepared food that they serve over
rice. We all got some delicious lunch (though we all avoided the
chicken blood this time) and some locally-produced sodas out of a
refrigerator.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jlG28BFIMcnMoeQkg4x5qwhGxu5re6Bx87toYt4PlQ-4qWgq3BCrXdvrlTXgdYtUUdslimr-E-QWqSIqRG_ZKJd-BcC3BVUxRInfypySA6LhEK59h1kOLqTQqwT_3r_ZCH_bivVHs86C/s1600/IMG_20190703_121847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jlG28BFIMcnMoeQkg4x5qwhGxu5re6Bx87toYt4PlQ-4qWgq3BCrXdvrlTXgdYtUUdslimr-E-QWqSIqRG_ZKJd-BcC3BVUxRInfypySA6LhEK59h1kOLqTQqwT_3r_ZCH_bivVHs86C/s640/IMG_20190703_121847.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not even a little lost.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOgcGLV6TazmcQjpwu0cA4kkUxCBa_Yw-DXNfOtj80aTJCHSEoHhE1BmBydCXihdU_ZHP6ck_nUCjhWnqzHVUyJbto8b0G2HsDrWSupxrG95HBgsFnoROgo5i_b6agKkB-X5QeM1X9s3lC/s1600/20190705_205045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1114" data-original-width="1600" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOgcGLV6TazmcQjpwu0cA4kkUxCBa_Yw-DXNfOtj80aTJCHSEoHhE1BmBydCXihdU_ZHP6ck_nUCjhWnqzHVUyJbto8b0G2HsDrWSupxrG95HBgsFnoROgo5i_b6agKkB-X5QeM1X9s3lC/s640/20190705_205045.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Potok's workout routine got a little tougher</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Later that evening
we strolled along the beach to watch the sunset and caught another
(much larger) religious ritual at the small temple near the resort.
This was part of the wedding, the groom’s family had removed their
idols from the family temple and brought it down to the sea god
shrine to be purified before the wedding ceremony the next day.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqMMRJQ-G5zqkBkse564YT4tf0oG_BQwa0gUQEbDJtmssKWNdFGPoHX_w1Ze9Ic60qs3L8BDeMdrjOOgHRTLkmKcqBaHNmOEzbhKdSu3eGVp4VYkkcCtRM4iQ9RWxPOdzLRNQepJbjOrFc/s1600/20190705_203850.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="481" data-original-width="1273" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqMMRJQ-G5zqkBkse564YT4tf0oG_BQwa0gUQEbDJtmssKWNdFGPoHX_w1Ze9Ic60qs3L8BDeMdrjOOgHRTLkmKcqBaHNmOEzbhKdSu3eGVp4VYkkcCtRM4iQ9RWxPOdzLRNQepJbjOrFc/s640/20190705_203850.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sea God temple on the left, sea on the right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br />
Day 2 we split up in
the morning, Michael went diving to explore a shipwreck and Elizabeth
took the kids to a Balinese wedding!</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Michael’s dive
guide was Adhi, a local who had grown up in Bondalem but then spent 9
years in the USA working on various cruise lines. In addition to
dive-related activities (he guides but also volunteers with local
conservation efforts planting and maintaining coral gardens) he was
also connected to the local archeology and anthropology scene, and
while we were driving back from the dive he got a call from a
Canadian grad student asking if he could help her with a project to
catalog local indigenous architecture. He also explained that
although there is some farming on this side of the island (Bali,
incidentally, is one of the first places where oranges were
cultivated outside of China) most of the economy is based on fishing,
with tourism and cock-fighting bookkeeping (this may have been a
communication problem) as secondary industries.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Michael dove at the
reef that was once the US Army Transport Liberty, a cargo ship in World War 2 that
was torpedoed off the coast of Bali in 1942. The crew ran it aground
to evacuate, and the ship stayed there until 1967 when a volcanic
eruption and subsequent earthquake caused it to slide into the ocean,
where it now lies on its side in about 25 meters of water. The ship
itself was 150 meters long and 20 meters wide, and turned out to be a
great structure for coral to grow on! Michael and his guide were
able to explore the length of the wreck, swim through the cargo
compartment, and even see a sea turtle!<br />
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Meanwhile, Potok took Elizabeth and the kids to a local wedding. They gave a small gift, and were welcomed with local treats and very sweet tea, then squeezed ourselves in wherever we could find space - right next to the high priest. Apparently it is not unusual for tourists to join in these events, and on their way in they waved to the other westerners, who they had seen around the resort earlier that morning.<br />
<br />
While the bridal couple prepared themselves in a private room, the high priest chanted and blessed everything and was handed innumerable objects by his helpers. At the same time Potok's uncle sang/chanted into a microphone (with a megaphone for back-up in case of power outage), and the rest of the guests chatted and ate. Eventually the priests blessed the compound with fruit, and grain, and a sacred chicken and duck, and the couple emerged to sit in front of the priest. Potok explained that the bride is usually expecting and the priest blessed the man to help him transition from wild bachelor to responsible family provider.<br />
<br />
At some point, the signal went out that it was time to eat "lunch" (this was 9:30 AM) - which was a great buffet spread of what we can only assume are Balinese local dishes. By this time, Middle child and Danger Monkey had wandered off with Potok to play with the baby chickens being raised behind the kitchen building. By the time lunch was finished, the ceremony seemed to be concluding, and we all walked back to the resort to meet up with Michael.<br />
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<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
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<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
That afternoon
Michael taught the kids how to snorkel in the pool, and then most of
us (Her Pineapple Majesty chose to remain back in the room) went to
the Bondalem United FC soccer match! It cost 10,000 Indonesian Rupiah for
the four of us to attend (about 80 US cents), we picked up some sodas
from a woman selling them out of a cooler, and found a place to sit
on the edge of the flood prevention gutter behind the away team goal.
The home team won, and there was much rejoicing.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1wDvVY8quXVf_2s57d2Zt_nLJbqn1UVFx2Sj13UXDD5CpCt49V1OJrA1WQb-ywhZivAFIZJB4Ck2z2d3-gLR2OAlYWb9bsQyG4UKT4aKsLplDl40-zflj6CacYEcKhYRxYNyagIMkId_f/s1600/20190705_203352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1518" data-original-width="1600" height="606" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1wDvVY8quXVf_2s57d2Zt_nLJbqn1UVFx2Sj13UXDD5CpCt49V1OJrA1WQb-ywhZivAFIZJB4Ck2z2d3-gLR2OAlYWb9bsQyG4UKT4aKsLplDl40-zflj6CacYEcKhYRxYNyagIMkId_f/s640/20190705_203352.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This end stays in the air. If it goes in the water you are going to have a bad time.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKP6dRfRhxRrhvpP7Yy1ffomKpiPD50tj60wydSN8EGWoN8yLECFHDJzQ-G9SDOsgI_EK9bB6MRKBkU16jB9j_rwDZJSWHZ-kmfxgyQdqS8XS3qFjYGxpffXF_sNDphc01x2rX3fAEs-H4/s1600/IMG_20190704_170053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKP6dRfRhxRrhvpP7Yy1ffomKpiPD50tj60wydSN8EGWoN8yLECFHDJzQ-G9SDOsgI_EK9bB6MRKBkU16jB9j_rwDZJSWHZ-kmfxgyQdqS8XS3qFjYGxpffXF_sNDphc01x2rX3fAEs-H4/s640/IMG_20190704_170053.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lovely day for football</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Afterwards we
chatted with a policeman who tried to convince Michael to buy some
land up the hill (“Prices are really cheap now because corruption
is down... no more money laundering!”) and then strolled back along
the beach. Back at the resort, we ate almost an entire barracuda.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh702qiR2vkFEvBV4wb3XSoI1FkVH8WtxKYBqlkLaL5znCvNghvoDjEvabAeqR05OVXhNn9FXgrL-3ODdEifGg9OlZ5M_sEj4ZmbPb5EJWCD-0PWDw1VakhdczgpWowRKM9goxnc6-gNPE-/s1600/IMG_20190705_174237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh702qiR2vkFEvBV4wb3XSoI1FkVH8WtxKYBqlkLaL5znCvNghvoDjEvabAeqR05OVXhNn9FXgrL-3ODdEifGg9OlZ5M_sEj4ZmbPb5EJWCD-0PWDw1VakhdczgpWowRKM9goxnc6-gNPE-/s640/IMG_20190705_174237.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Do the sunset dance!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs1hCF-qm4yQUVCjHDtOTlffJVomv3pOngOM8s7e0O97_5ED9QY-rQM-4_1VTSGwNkw-WL9L_Bbq4W-_0Jvxrxi_HMMhJ8YD5CDWv8K2YBEWxY1ti60bla2M_rJnMgaurawG0hGhINRBpH/s1600/IMG_20190705_175539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs1hCF-qm4yQUVCjHDtOTlffJVomv3pOngOM8s7e0O97_5ED9QY-rQM-4_1VTSGwNkw-WL9L_Bbq4W-_0Jvxrxi_HMMhJ8YD5CDWv8K2YBEWxY1ti60bla2M_rJnMgaurawG0hGhINRBpH/s640/IMG_20190705_175539.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This sunset was below average, according to the locals.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZplXQFnjeAK-xTKtzU1rCBMPGoiXZECqx3TIesrQrCj9uWf5vWm0WfQLXXf2I05F6a2OQ7sEuej9UpS03hvLDPpNJd1xSSGd3sWwxh_Nh2MYzhlyHO9ue52E_I0akKeSNnOsey-QrVhjV/s1600/IMG_20190704_190504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZplXQFnjeAK-xTKtzU1rCBMPGoiXZECqx3TIesrQrCj9uWf5vWm0WfQLXXf2I05F6a2OQ7sEuej9UpS03hvLDPpNJd1xSSGd3sWwxh_Nh2MYzhlyHO9ue52E_I0akKeSNnOsey-QrVhjV/s640/IMG_20190704_190504.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not so scary now!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
On day 3, Michael
and the big kids got out early before breakfast while the tide was
still up but before the surf got heavy to go snorkeling. They saw
angelfish, sea stars, and butterfly fish right off the beach in front
of the resort’s restaurant.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
After breakfast,
Elizabeth, Michael and Danger Monkey hiked the other way on the beach
to see what they could see. This direction there were a couple of
fishing villages with fishermen coming in from their night’s work.
They used lights attached to their outrigger boats to attract fish
and catch them with nets. These were the guys who had caught our
barracuda dinner from the day before, and Danger Monkey attracted a
lot of attention from the village children. We eventually cut inland
and wound our way through the foot-and-motorbike tracks back towards
the main part of town. Each household had a walled compound that
included their family shrine. Although they practice cremation and
then bury the ashes (we declined an invitation to a funeral, but the
process was explained to us by Potok), they believe the spirits of
their ancestors reside in the statues placed in their shrine.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjScX6d43D2gMuoHP_HWYGDwB9rTFhkxOjdbbI2peQMX3d8uuZCmn60QgSR65hP0cS1sS9yXiy_fxQDxDlSCPhIek0vxG9fdctnBIncRbcavJ_1ZHe94UMNBE9diinPT9NV3Jg9ps6hdnsz/s1600/IMG_20190705_101205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjScX6d43D2gMuoHP_HWYGDwB9rTFhkxOjdbbI2peQMX3d8uuZCmn60QgSR65hP0cS1sS9yXiy_fxQDxDlSCPhIek0vxG9fdctnBIncRbcavJ_1ZHe94UMNBE9diinPT9NV3Jg9ps6hdnsz/s640/IMG_20190705_101205.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful! And so is the weather!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk4B6BUpcD8TZV6mugn5XS9CSk5pbhAfzuYxIOD5vC41_1KJPBpgPBmkjm3tknR_VeQ1NzJ-L040WDHV_dCvP1gsyjQwV2twXze-5DUZFjlkERhHU88z3npO8Xt8KGjXG9M98X1PdTnRjM/s1600/IMG_20190705_105307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk4B6BUpcD8TZV6mugn5XS9CSk5pbhAfzuYxIOD5vC41_1KJPBpgPBmkjm3tknR_VeQ1NzJ-L040WDHV_dCvP1gsyjQwV2twXze-5DUZFjlkERhHU88z3npO8Xt8KGjXG9M98X1PdTnRjM/s640/IMG_20190705_105307.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Only a little bit lost.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
We eventually found
our way back to the resort and had a relaxing afternoon and evening.
After dinner and packing, we launched (biodegradable!) sky lanterns
over the ocean as part of the resort’s “last night” ritual. It
was a great way to cap off an amazing stay.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP3XavQ9qU_zFItC5jwAJzsFv0-34In5C8crAjq4sJfH_KcHIbFvepXRHuBvJk_9zK7RAhpQh7I7lzVFGKznKEDAFOstgJc2EJolZP1nmD5mzfz3Z_vgW_lIW7dsiMRV1AOEqlR75k-bcm/s1600/20190705_195153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP3XavQ9qU_zFItC5jwAJzsFv0-34In5C8crAjq4sJfH_KcHIbFvepXRHuBvJk_9zK7RAhpQh7I7lzVFGKznKEDAFOstgJc2EJolZP1nmD5mzfz3Z_vgW_lIW7dsiMRV1AOEqlR75k-bcm/s640/20190705_195153.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Make a wish!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
The next day we had
another 3.5 hour bumpy car ride (this time with a child throwing up!)
back to the airport for our flight to Kota Kinabalu, on Malaysian
Borneo!</div>
<style type="text/css">p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; }</style>Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-26231794009070799672019-07-19T00:58:00.000-07:002019-07-19T01:50:15.804-07:00The Long Way Home: Bangkok InterludeOur full itinerary on the way home has 8 flights, with only 2 of those being direct. For nearly every flight we are transferring either through Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur, and between Laos and Bali we wound up with a 22-hour layover in Bangkok. Rather than try to entertain kids in a transit hotel for most of a day, we chose to get cheap room right off the airport rail line in Bangkok and find a few fun things to do. The last time we visited as a family (Christmas 2017) we packed a lot into our 5 days in town, visiting pretty much all of the big temples and major sites (and a handful of smaller weirder ones), so this trip we decided to skip the temples and find some more modern fun.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgntrfrAGqM2WIkblCZqaIRnC3DHpd84995kUN6QLIUgNt3NcyP0zz_z7Juw5MmJRroDc6wWwYUzTLRRsp51lB0DbzmUeO9oX2TGT7aZZyJ_yRsfkosCYxljtRAx-EabLiiPQp_OaSUJmRD/s1600/IMG_20190701_110949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgntrfrAGqM2WIkblCZqaIRnC3DHpd84995kUN6QLIUgNt3NcyP0zz_z7Juw5MmJRroDc6wWwYUzTLRRsp51lB0DbzmUeO9oX2TGT7aZZyJ_yRsfkosCYxljtRAx-EabLiiPQp_OaSUJmRD/s640/IMG_20190701_110949.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thailand has the best flavors of, well, everything.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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After checking in and feeding the kids some snacks from 7-11 we took a taxi to Hajime - a robot restaurant in what turned out to be a failed luxury shopping center. The car dealership on the first floor (the only other business in the building that appeared to be operating) had a few million USD worth of sports cars on display, and we were one of only two groups at the restaurant itself. Hajime is a Japanese hot-pot joint whose gimmick is that much of your food is delivered by industrial robots with pasted-on smiley faces wearing samurai armor. They even do a little dance.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dw18hhpQK-MTn7BZ0gipCysVZvvhuH1thMe2CPSVDng17naSQsWw9hOPjb_i8atEoG_ltQHYfbWwtcw_FxMrg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Different "Target", same font.</td></tr>
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Afterwards we went to Asiatique, a sort of cleaned-up market reminiscent of the Chatuchak market that we visited on the north end of town, but glitzed up (and the insanity dialed down) for tourists.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuoLy2jRhxTpFbXOMF3f_yWOHlr2maIdgozBD_XcF9D7DaTB3ciPjLbNQKb-GSzg9TLCC8TxWep1gg06-tLJ08Z0PfwnPuueLHcVWzXfDjQbfHgmpfEh_quo16Pchwu-DSHQwSa6ZXNKxt/s1600/20190701_190325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuoLy2jRhxTpFbXOMF3f_yWOHlr2maIdgozBD_XcF9D7DaTB3ciPjLbNQKb-GSzg9TLCC8TxWep1gg06-tLJ08Z0PfwnPuueLHcVWzXfDjQbfHgmpfEh_quo16Pchwu-DSHQwSa6ZXNKxt/s640/20190701_190325.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you have to explicitly state "exotic" steakhouse in Bangkok you are trying too hard</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb62D5iiyIDkL738aRfDazIcOuXY94j4Zbl2gO3t8padT8teIXp3HhqurUU1y5jb_Z-BOdDlkQdDeHXv1wQs7sOKgzTecxzB5vT6bNRw92OXhm3x2Iogux3fyO5ayWj7WwUFbE3W7qg0Nm/s1600/20190701_191026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb62D5iiyIDkL738aRfDazIcOuXY94j4Zbl2gO3t8padT8teIXp3HhqurUU1y5jb_Z-BOdDlkQdDeHXv1wQs7sOKgzTecxzB5vT6bNRw92OXhm3x2Iogux3fyO5ayWj7WwUFbE3W7qg0Nm/s640/20190701_191026.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Why rubber duckies? Why not?!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We strolled around and got treats (one last mango sticky rice!), rode the ferris wheel, and had tiny fish nibble the dead skin off of our feet.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEagFnmjS2UI1tIchuLrXtGh9srEA91c__K5YAroLfwiJLe6Ih4quj20vcZty0xEL9GemEn6mlgdTxnp005f7MtRvn6hSVlLpXJkN2UCa8CBvhGvd-KqqlmqOXxRrVDKtvcgYf-yvqLmNY/s1600/20190701_185043%25280%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEagFnmjS2UI1tIchuLrXtGh9srEA91c__K5YAroLfwiJLe6Ih4quj20vcZty0xEL9GemEn6mlgdTxnp005f7MtRvn6hSVlLpXJkN2UCa8CBvhGvd-KqqlmqOXxRrVDKtvcgYf-yvqLmNY/s640/20190701_185043%25280%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boats!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0LbPdLx68JmbWKa-CqTE0Fa91Ia3Z39RuCQifstdZtEW3aaMvYIiypnL_M9BZImpvGsjpXnytuCJHu14q-1-XlV5IMZU6Gi-rujCtwDpVe_MRDYv50ouX6ioDRRGnbW3LuhvYubGMVdbb/s1600/20190701_185048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0LbPdLx68JmbWKa-CqTE0Fa91Ia3Z39RuCQifstdZtEW3aaMvYIiypnL_M9BZImpvGsjpXnytuCJHu14q-1-XlV5IMZU6Gi-rujCtwDpVe_MRDYv50ouX6ioDRRGnbW3LuhvYubGMVdbb/s640/20190701_185048.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Chao Phraya, with old Bangkok waaay in the background</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55wApYo-jJxe8QOh00Y9r_-kO17dpUjy7ZfkxoXa1_QOtYV5N35-TGLe3AeJAujCjKGNOQz2w4cs8raQD6_VeCn1WWhKFd0-D1XK-cdad85k9fIqfQ88RifSG0XzgwxKqWCNg9O9rDm-u/s1600/20190701_194146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55wApYo-jJxe8QOh00Y9r_-kO17dpUjy7ZfkxoXa1_QOtYV5N35-TGLe3AeJAujCjKGNOQz2w4cs8raQD6_VeCn1WWhKFd0-D1XK-cdad85k9fIqfQ88RifSG0XzgwxKqWCNg9O9rDm-u/s640/20190701_194146.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As you can tell from the background reaction, it felt _really_ weird.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAYkMupPrueH7C8KfrjW-OZ-y9sPZs80VtAuFZCesZ1KLJmBoP8h4RIWnR5DNKghwhadDvbIstAr3HGqUIkEfRkcvpPp2qVxytrA2rLQShE4gVGOyE4P4WIgkBRBpAg4tOQoIyOPYf8TFh/s1600/IMG_20190701_194536.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAYkMupPrueH7C8KfrjW-OZ-y9sPZs80VtAuFZCesZ1KLJmBoP8h4RIWnR5DNKghwhadDvbIstAr3HGqUIkEfRkcvpPp2qVxytrA2rLQShE4gVGOyE4P4WIgkBRBpAg4tOQoIyOPYf8TFh/s640/IMG_20190701_194536.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Afterwards our feet were so soft and smooth!</td></tr>
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Next time: we finally make it to Bali!Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-90903494421643716352019-07-04T03:48:00.000-07:002019-07-04T03:48:34.956-07:00The Long Way Home: LaosIn Laos we chose to stay in Luang Prabang, an important historic city, the intermittent capital, and the modern religious center of Lao(s). When Laos was annexed by France in 1893 it was declared as the seat of the monarchy, and many of the buildings in town date from the French colonial period. It is situated where the Nam Khan river joins with the Mekong, surrounded by rugged jungle-covered mountains and, like everywhere else in southeast Asia that we go, it is filled with butterflies.<br />
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The town is now a tourist destination, imagine Key West but replace the idolatry of Jimmy Buffet with the Buddha. There are many many monasteries and temples, and the daily ritual of giving alms to the monks even attracts the tourists (Elizabeth woke up early on the last day to attend the ceremony). This is a little bit incongruous in a country that is, ostensibly, an irreligious Marxist state (the last king of Laos died in a communist re-education camp in 1975), but it seems like in Luang Prabang at least the Buddhists have made a functional alliance with the capitalist tourists.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2t9iD_ttemWPhxKOnpm8m5psuw2iQHwrsqMaQjQh79-kOev1394EGmTZQ53d6bltFzDYI_YqVOfaIh4H521pwBrIxx24u7soFX_t7r8DTYHoKD3ONE0ok31EJ72w81J3_fApISSBrOQrh/s1600/20190703_160616.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1368" data-original-width="1600" height="546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2t9iD_ttemWPhxKOnpm8m5psuw2iQHwrsqMaQjQh79-kOev1394EGmTZQ53d6bltFzDYI_YqVOfaIh4H521pwBrIxx24u7soFX_t7r8DTYHoKD3ONE0ok31EJ72w81J3_fApISSBrOQrh/s640/20190703_160616.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vendors are set up to sell food to tourists to give to the monks. Not exactly efficient.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuydSBaKd9AoRU5r7XhsOg96zRxKiUtB3xsGQ7Hjk3XLgd1ARaxW7sU9UUCiAoQw2g1tw4j1uYRKnt_MAXCGjYhBJzCplYdoxd2m-60Yg6_KqW6cxx50G5cXP3ZdrzGu5be_5xX7uMNfs1/s1600/20190703_160825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1008" data-original-width="1600" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuydSBaKd9AoRU5r7XhsOg96zRxKiUtB3xsGQ7Hjk3XLgd1ARaxW7sU9UUCiAoQw2g1tw4j1uYRKnt_MAXCGjYhBJzCplYdoxd2m-60Yg6_KqW6cxx50G5cXP3ZdrzGu5be_5xX7uMNfs1/s640/20190703_160825.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monks who have taken a vow of poverty depend on daily offerings of rice</td></tr>
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On our first full day we explored the town a little, and hiked to the top of Phu Si to watch the sunset. Phu Si is a sacred mountain situated in the very middle of the town (across the street from the old royal palace) covered in temples, shrines, and sacred caves.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiavZwrXXJwYB9ReqMw2GrO9c3eRvL8d19j5u06mNjr9PtZ-Rw_Qwdl5G-glqwp8UqaVXIa6gpO6SP75FsgDKweSHUi9SbGx9aJePQzsiY6VokyzjG05rgQGozkyWUhkYGlacYJO8zySZaq/s1600/GOPR0867.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiavZwrXXJwYB9ReqMw2GrO9c3eRvL8d19j5u06mNjr9PtZ-Rw_Qwdl5G-glqwp8UqaVXIa6gpO6SP75FsgDKweSHUi9SbGx9aJePQzsiY6VokyzjG05rgQGozkyWUhkYGlacYJO8zySZaq/s640/GOPR0867.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mopeds are the dominant life form in Southeast Asia</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPrMQAU4pj_LPeaQdXSIV7vbtFBrRZsTPNMbiTUJErHrk6dOdou-OTyIjzfNjn-_3pOq1DoGxxKhE_JtxpUssTjzluTpFBLJW6aPRysNpCyC-8hqpK17jYI3Bb1lbUOfOr3TGVZMSUfOpv/s1600/GOPR0868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPrMQAU4pj_LPeaQdXSIV7vbtFBrRZsTPNMbiTUJErHrk6dOdou-OTyIjzfNjn-_3pOq1DoGxxKhE_JtxpUssTjzluTpFBLJW6aPRysNpCyC-8hqpK17jYI3Bb1lbUOfOr3TGVZMSUfOpv/s640/GOPR0868.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing stairs is apparently how you earn yourself a favorable reincarnation</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgPNU-3j3GQQY2HZ0060AEJcMvQvn9EzEnlfudr2-dvCu5wvv0iNawSUsDpJOwlWJcHbKq2W1ILVHoYnWo-Qama3skuJmzDMm8mC43rrCneOVtxEzgJCc4D67fD22yvtGJIDn0RXBaqjkM/s1600/GOPR0872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgPNU-3j3GQQY2HZ0060AEJcMvQvn9EzEnlfudr2-dvCu5wvv0iNawSUsDpJOwlWJcHbKq2W1ILVHoYnWo-Qama3skuJmzDMm8mC43rrCneOVtxEzgJCc4D67fD22yvtGJIDn0RXBaqjkM/s640/GOPR0872.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">NYAR!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoQyG8qLgPbIbbirMGr6vJBUYMXCTbqt_f3iD-5QEgCTfKon-fP-ZJkQ9wRfhmMSmLIIPWUUfwdg9AX8aMvMoIdEDlj4A1gE7GePrP-MHTjJx3z7FVe9PVeoNgoPiElRU5r1elJvq8dukE/s1600/GOPR0879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoQyG8qLgPbIbbirMGr6vJBUYMXCTbqt_f3iD-5QEgCTfKon-fP-ZJkQ9wRfhmMSmLIIPWUUfwdg9AX8aMvMoIdEDlj4A1gE7GePrP-MHTjJx3z7FVe9PVeoNgoPiElRU5r1elJvq8dukE/s640/GOPR0879.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Laos is very very pretty.</td></tr>
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It is also the best spot to watch the sunset over the mountains, and so is choked with tourists and Lao schoolchildren there to practice their English.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-zgU3aQQWED-sDF1sZoBsDobWhyphenhyphenfFNaKDKkIfBP-5m4BggJOKRwhQuQa_JYagyvIVz-hTVKkwU-cht0AeCB0r3FlqyGNEe31VzRhbVjN7rQ7Bdm-KOSjc8XfeT3F5lFBB7z03u3cJH44T/s1600/GOPR0889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-zgU3aQQWED-sDF1sZoBsDobWhyphenhyphenfFNaKDKkIfBP-5m4BggJOKRwhQuQa_JYagyvIVz-hTVKkwU-cht0AeCB0r3FlqyGNEe31VzRhbVjN7rQ7Bdm-KOSjc8XfeT3F5lFBB7z03u3cJH44T/s640/GOPR0889.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Remember: you're not stuck in traffic, you _are_ traffic.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5jTI9FaItLVMfuufRN-dDsTSXZmsw3QTSU-j7Dr58Lh37e67DZnOvSM9IPvxyy_oryx-eXcz5HqOZjH0Ry4OALEF7cNz-WaIpyi7SkPb7e9pSA_FTh2SLCnEqgZc40DG2cCD5MXgIiQqM/s1600/GOPR0915.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5jTI9FaItLVMfuufRN-dDsTSXZmsw3QTSU-j7Dr58Lh37e67DZnOvSM9IPvxyy_oryx-eXcz5HqOZjH0Ry4OALEF7cNz-WaIpyi7SkPb7e9pSA_FTh2SLCnEqgZc40DG2cCD5MXgIiQqM/s640/GOPR0915.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Her Pineapple Majesty holding court</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgWOmRUJKChwmYQHf_9QlUpz3yj-Mu-ifFoduWMSVjvvKDBjrHDv562CNCY102UFCNB_QC-qmL1MqoN4mnCff69B03TKVxUcOiFGKdFN4MLfwmc-ljvy6rELWtFVnY3fxR2m0gkWFEDktw/s1600/GOPR0916.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgWOmRUJKChwmYQHf_9QlUpz3yj-Mu-ifFoduWMSVjvvKDBjrHDv562CNCY102UFCNB_QC-qmL1MqoN4mnCff69B03TKVxUcOiFGKdFN4MLfwmc-ljvy6rELWtFVnY3fxR2m0gkWFEDktw/s640/GOPR0916.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was, after all that, a pretty gorgeous sunset.</td></tr>
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<br />
This was the first place on our big tour where we had to confront “ugly” tourism, self-entitled visitors ignoring all local customs and cultural norms. SE Asia is a relatively conservative place, with high neck-lines and polite signs requesting you to keep the public displays of affection to a minimum. On Phu Si was our first run-in with bikini-clad westerners drinking from their huge bottles of Lao beer in a sacred Buddhist temple. As we’ve traveled more and more and as we’ve made more and more of an effort to interact with the locals we’ve come to feel more like polite guests in the places we visit and less like consumers simply buying tours and trinkets. This has led to many more rewarding experiences, even though it sometimes means sacrificing comfort and convenience.<br />
<br />
After sunset we hiked down the mountain and ate at a market barbecue. The night market food district runs down a narrow alley lined with grills and assortments of meats pincered between split stalks of lemongrass and piles of raw veggies and various other dried and prepared food sellers. We chose a few things from one display (pork belly and chicken wings) and ordered some rice and the cook’s speciality - a spicy papaya mango salad. We picked a few cold drinks out of a cooler and grabbed a table that it turned out was in the domain of the next guy down who was selling fried dumplings, so we were obliged to buy a dozen delicious dumplings as well. The meats all came with special and inscrutable sauces, and the salad was just on the right side of too spicy. After we ate we explored the rest of the food alley, and it eventually gave way to “all you can eat” noodle and vegetable buffets where you could fill a plate with starch and veggies and they’d stir fry it all up for you for $1 USD.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0LQSWDJKwjkDY_5j4_7kPLW9-vUJC7_RNl1w8_JY1WxIajv7RLJYuWzRprlosvFzKtNaDC-Uoyagg0UnfqFZ8Z5XExcQsVj997YGnXzPzmkCVIDwQeaYTw84r3kzSbYPwqOWHJILj3ij/s1600/GOPR0926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0LQSWDJKwjkDY_5j4_7kPLW9-vUJC7_RNl1w8_JY1WxIajv7RLJYuWzRprlosvFzKtNaDC-Uoyagg0UnfqFZ8Z5XExcQsVj997YGnXzPzmkCVIDwQeaYTw84r3kzSbYPwqOWHJILj3ij/s640/GOPR0926.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Night market - mainly for the tourists. Full of elephant print pants and bottle openers made from bomb casings.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn1k5PXApD9jqs-v7v0MOy0Ccvs_Bm47czfYl-vdEGlMzBmr9pKcfJB4kZ7egp29llqrV-8KwX9g9cPG3KN6jbjJis9S-AU7P6Q1h13fgPE-m2EROSZ8xFrXnOTiDYG7BA_2qZV4sjmmbm/s1600/GOPR0927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn1k5PXApD9jqs-v7v0MOy0Ccvs_Bm47czfYl-vdEGlMzBmr9pKcfJB4kZ7egp29llqrV-8KwX9g9cPG3KN6jbjJis9S-AU7P6Q1h13fgPE-m2EROSZ8xFrXnOTiDYG7BA_2qZV4sjmmbm/s640/GOPR0927.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So hard to choose!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWPm_R7RBbkQ8wRsWaZO1angty6TH85saeabprpWrGNgwUomHed7VF8PBx5uWPoTjvILDZC9ORZsfcDCzwwCGqdSKBEw76vK2x-kcKG2QuQ4hPXx5M-Ay4Ld5JhHvlgXFxDrPuOcY4Efg9/s1600/GOPR0930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWPm_R7RBbkQ8wRsWaZO1angty6TH85saeabprpWrGNgwUomHed7VF8PBx5uWPoTjvILDZC9ORZsfcDCzwwCGqdSKBEw76vK2x-kcKG2QuQ4hPXx5M-Ay4Ld5JhHvlgXFxDrPuOcY4Efg9/s640/GOPR0930.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eating sticky rice with our hands, the way it was intended.</td></tr>
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The next day we took a boat to visit Pak Ou cave, a local sacred place where Buddha statues from homes and temples are placed after they have reached the end of their useful lives. It was a two hour boat ride up the Mekong, which at the end of the hot dry season was very low. If you were to follow our itinerary later in the year it’s actually possible to go from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang by boat, but at this time of year even our little boat had to weave back and forth across the river to find enough depth. Once we got there we hiked up a short ways to the cave, which was filled with thousands of statues of all sizes, as well as statues of hermits and other other icons. We made donations and rang the bells like you do. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheaVaRARynsw_nK-NF11luh7ZUB5JNn4cbpPtXT_HsJF2XslIQWoN18RSi1P3ejYmQ15FVMqSCnmRliXnAXokGWX8DEwRlne7jop1FpkoQbsYpRsvxvU3LDwm_CIS2N9fG0ywXfabbrK-O/s1600/GOPR0938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheaVaRARynsw_nK-NF11luh7ZUB5JNn4cbpPtXT_HsJF2XslIQWoN18RSi1P3ejYmQ15FVMqSCnmRliXnAXokGWX8DEwRlne7jop1FpkoQbsYpRsvxvU3LDwm_CIS2N9fG0ywXfabbrK-O/s640/GOPR0938.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This one looks river-worthy!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV2YRcIaudrYZYh-6xQ_NhX5ZbTZ_TlskcRTl5hjTRNmZ9i3Og8sB7bTjJXHbtKhUGXlbpbutgZY6hdQqXbcsL3FRipzGXuHikfKNbPjI2dYYeeW861IJ5-OdgU3q4dTOXxlC8u-98PskR/s1600/GOPR0970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV2YRcIaudrYZYh-6xQ_NhX5ZbTZ_TlskcRTl5hjTRNmZ9i3Og8sB7bTjJXHbtKhUGXlbpbutgZY6hdQqXbcsL3FRipzGXuHikfKNbPjI2dYYeeW861IJ5-OdgU3q4dTOXxlC8u-98PskR/s640/GOPR0970.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mountains everywhere</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD_dmj97v8nfMBy888mGWZXdTqaz8Dl1Vt41Hgkto9ibSsVqIL5bEpIZFTEjRMozhGjnhfztRljwbpzX3B_UVFFOKwzHXG178TjZPFYJYebHoJGWFd9_8mxqI2TjVYKUpYMc3f5G5nOyQP/s1600/20190703_155812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1227" data-original-width="1600" height="490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD_dmj97v8nfMBy888mGWZXdTqaz8Dl1Vt41Hgkto9ibSsVqIL5bEpIZFTEjRMozhGjnhfztRljwbpzX3B_UVFFOKwzHXG178TjZPFYJYebHoJGWFd9_8mxqI2TjVYKUpYMc3f5G5nOyQP/s640/20190703_155812.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pulling up to the bamboo dock.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6XDy_iQsqwDtIL5sDg9zviVPPf0zXATLw_OsN3DQvwQYCHKHgUC4JiEA18JExKz8MxMuVUlPTKmiklFPEAjlgdE91iMOOyj7KEBmZm2iK-0OnW7tgFCvJFkhDrgEi6GevOKC1LcbjNhT9/s1600/GOPR0973.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6XDy_iQsqwDtIL5sDg9zviVPPf0zXATLw_OsN3DQvwQYCHKHgUC4JiEA18JExKz8MxMuVUlPTKmiklFPEAjlgdE91iMOOyj7KEBmZm2iK-0OnW7tgFCvJFkhDrgEi6GevOKC1LcbjNhT9/s640/GOPR0973.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nice view. Not pictured: the bats right above our heads</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvkACBJex6x7CTC3yGk0K9m5trc30aKEV19RiIiWFDk8zWQXr5XM9lWKPbSCmzB5OErvX3ac9i9ufKm68dYbJWLJHxyjfcb7f46juJEqrQCbwipv975_yTud5LebBpUI9Wo4HhkTtRX3vD/s1600/20190628_105222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvkACBJex6x7CTC3yGk0K9m5trc30aKEV19RiIiWFDk8zWQXr5XM9lWKPbSCmzB5OErvX3ac9i9ufKm68dYbJWLJHxyjfcb7f46juJEqrQCbwipv975_yTud5LebBpUI9Wo4HhkTtRX3vD/s640/20190628_105222.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buddha buddha buddha</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIDH4nrUoddWpOjPzvPopJSZcETouuiJqQcOJr91gTJKYeA7FoQyw1h1-J4-GsK_slvfsekd8lG9HVto55li_RKnmBEb4Ot0tmqjzZmJspJRNz1nsZArB2nsyibFMveBpoWVONl7Ed74_z/s1600/GOPR0977.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIDH4nrUoddWpOjPzvPopJSZcETouuiJqQcOJr91gTJKYeA7FoQyw1h1-J4-GsK_slvfsekd8lG9HVto55li_RKnmBEb4Ot0tmqjzZmJspJRNz1nsZArB2nsyibFMveBpoWVONl7Ed74_z/s640/GOPR0977.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Someone is in good spirits because she is being carried</td></tr>
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On the way back (only an hour when we were going <u>with</u> the current) we had the driver drop us off on the far (and more fashionable) end of town, and ate a late lunch at a fine French restaurant (l’Elephant) run by a Laotian who went to culinary school in France and his business partner, who was a consultant for France Telecom before deciding he’d rather be a restauranteur in Laos. We had fine foods and lots and lots of french fries.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoVjoVA4ESAJacCW_ohkL1DI0j5pMXPIxp3OTq-egZ0yS6TDmjwVYa2cW9B9S_ob41PcnMbebirYYzMWy12UdbgLPMGeNT1wHxq5nbc6SQ6n7OFXf2-UQdYsoQGs9cEDzKq49DMfL-LIjX/s1600/20190628_142934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1576" data-original-width="1600" height="630" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoVjoVA4ESAJacCW_ohkL1DI0j5pMXPIxp3OTq-egZ0yS6TDmjwVYa2cW9B9S_ob41PcnMbebirYYzMWy12UdbgLPMGeNT1wHxq5nbc6SQ6n7OFXf2-UQdYsoQGs9cEDzKq49DMfL-LIjX/s640/20190628_142934.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danger Monkey's first experience with french onion soup</td></tr>
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<br />
That evening we attended a storytelling/music performance in the world’s tiniest theater, and heard the origin myth of the Phu Si (it was brought there by Haruman the monkey king from Sri Lanka so that the queen could harvest mushrooms from it), the origin of the “Khene”, the traditional instrument that they were playing which was basically a bamboo organ bagpipe contraption (it was made to sound like a specific magic bird) and the origin of the mountains across the river (which is too complex for a parenthetical).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnsdLtCYWc6-UzqkMw5q-7ayD0fnL38_bLDySdgPHg_p0_dGq0RkAXOKhcchSbFge71zXfYHpYKSIlP2SrR1OmOzu663UESv83sB-z_5DJ9hmAT8zEHxecTS2Ptn8xuwjSq1hDh4GWToom/s1600/GOPR0979.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnsdLtCYWc6-UzqkMw5q-7ayD0fnL38_bLDySdgPHg_p0_dGq0RkAXOKhcchSbFge71zXfYHpYKSIlP2SrR1OmOzu663UESv83sB-z_5DJ9hmAT8zEHxecTS2Ptn8xuwjSq1hDh4GWToom/s640/GOPR0979.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We almost bought a Khene ourselves, but resisted the temptation</td></tr>
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<br />
The next day was arts and crafts day! Elizabeth spent the morning learning traditional weaving (and marveling at the mechanics involved in adding fancy patterns to a basic piece), and Michael and the eldest two children spent the afternoon learning how to make Hmong hunting bows.<br />
<br />
The Hmong handicrafts are not kept alive entirely by altruism and tourism, but also by purely economic reasons. The Hmong diaspora of refugees and American collaborators fleeing the Secret War in Laos are now primarily living in the US (predominantly in California and Minnesota) where they get much higher wages and still want traditional new year outfits and other local goods, so a lot of the businesses we saw are making traditional hand-crafted artisanal goods for export.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidq_u2-NQBF8hsA9xJMWcif8VSe4y67B6tWdLygjCDYX3hAs_tdxQt4Mv8npQH3Js7EfgSznZ-ej81jqORhRGmTMDRMq4wr-6uAXyGpRLYdUMQawTkotlwefTrW46psHrFlFZvGyKwpZqR/s1600/20190629_115754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidq_u2-NQBF8hsA9xJMWcif8VSe4y67B6tWdLygjCDYX3hAs_tdxQt4Mv8npQH3Js7EfgSznZ-ej81jqORhRGmTMDRMq4wr-6uAXyGpRLYdUMQawTkotlwefTrW46psHrFlFZvGyKwpZqR/s640/20190629_115754.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apparently most of the battle is setting up the loom in the first place</td></tr>
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For the bow-making class Michael and the kids took a tuktuk ride up to the edge of the jungle and were instructed on how to create traditional Hmong hunting tools (bows and crossbows) by a master bow maker and his sons. It turns out the first step to making a Hmong bow out of bamboo is “spend 15 years working with a machete literally every day to develop your knife skills”. Her Pineapple Majesty and Michael did alright at shaping their bows, but Middle Child’s crossbow was mostly made by the teacher. Every part of it was made by hand with a sharp heavy knife, a chisel, and sharpened pieces of rebar that were heated in the fire to burn holes through the teak handle and bamboo trigger. Bamboo really is an amazing material - it's like plastic pipes that grow straight up out of the ground! The string on the crossbow was made from a hemp rope which started as a big bunch of dried grass, and was then pulled against a post to separate the chaff from the fibers, rolled by hand into a rough rope, woven into itself to make the loops, run through the top of a fire to sear off the loose bits and tighten it up, rubbed with mystery green leaf to smooth it out even more, and then the striking/sliding surface had a strip of rattan cane woven through and around it to reduce friction and improve durability. The bows could all pierce a target pretty accurately from about 20 feet away, and we were told that for actual hunting they would coat the tips in a paralyzing poison. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carving the teak handle with a giant knife</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burning holes through the bamboo for the arrow to travel through</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ACTION POSE!</td></tr>
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Meanwhile, Elizabeth kept Danger Monkey away from fires and sharp knives, instead exploring the ethnology museum - which contained a musical instrument room for Elizabeth to geek out in, as well as an impressively interactive area for dress-up and trying out crafts and instruments. Danger Monkey liked the kazoo (not a traditional Laotian instrument).
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danger Monkey visited the ethnology museum while the bigs were off making weapons</td></tr>
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The following morning we hired a van to take us up to visit the Kuang Si waterfall. Our guest house was in a narrow motorcycle-only street, and where it met the main drag there were always a couple of tuktuk and van drivers waiting to see if anyone wanted to go to the "WaterfallCaveWhiskeyVillage?!" We negotiated a reasonable round trip fare and piled in. It was about an hour to the wilderness park that housed the waterfalls (as well as a bear rescue center where moon bears that had been kept for bile production were rehabilitated) and we were passed by many pickup trucks full of backpackers. The waterfall pools were cold (refreshing!) and full of nibbly fish and western tourists. There were also a few locals bathing in the pools and just cavorting and cooling off.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All problems are irrelevant when you are swimming in a waterfall</td></tr>
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After swimming in the pools we chose to take a hike up to the top of the waterfall. When there are warning signs in the US we tend to assume they’re there for legal liability reasons and largely ignore them. When there are warning signs in SE Asia they are totally serious. This was, in fact, a very steep and slippery trail. For one portion the wooden stairs were in the running water, and the mineral content was so high that they were encased in limestone. The top of the waterfall was like an Alice in Wonderland jungle, all thick vines and deeply shadowed by the thick canopy. There was a swing over the river with some children playing on it, but other than that the entire place was dark and still with lots of huge-leafed plants and the occasional bunch of bright flowers.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Playing fishing at the top of the waterfall</td></tr>
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After exploring at the top we hiked down another insanely steep and slippery slope. We took one more dip in a waterfall pool to cool off from the hike, and got lunch at a nearby barbecue joint. We ordered a few things that were on the cooking grate at the front of the restaurant that looked enticing, Elizabeth and Michael shared a huge grilled fish and the kids had half a chicken.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yum.</td></tr>
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We stopped on the way back at a local dairy that rents buffalo from the local farmers to get their milk, and then makes fancy cheeses and ice cream. The ice cream was basically indistinguishable from regular ice cream, and the kids got to play with the rabbits, chickens, and piglets that were also at the farm.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Also yum.</td></tr>
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That night Her Pineapple Majesty and Michael went exploring way off the tourist track to try and find a solution for shipping a pair of bamboo hunting bows back to Minnesota. They eventually found a shop that was basically the general store for the tourist businesses, it sold office supplies (including the big form-factor calculators that are necessary for communicating and arguing about prices) and restaurant supplies, and a few snacks and paper offerings for burning at temples. They picked up a couple of plastic signboards and a roll of duct tape and were able to fashion a truly ridiculous package back in the hotel room. Here’s hoping the Lao Poste can get it to the US!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_MWz919IiFroSrYZEQizfQ00ViE3_OLvmBTMpcXpO7hSUSARua2TTmy9BIG9kdsrA4ppD8AtYMgRuQnl1nKfC_uCuYWr_smRpMgHS20IUTzePZkjCFXthjp8O4RYZbVDzCEbLrRNws4wL/s1600/20190703_161109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1519" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_MWz919IiFroSrYZEQizfQ00ViE3_OLvmBTMpcXpO7hSUSARua2TTmy9BIG9kdsrA4ppD8AtYMgRuQnl1nKfC_uCuYWr_smRpMgHS20IUTzePZkjCFXthjp8O4RYZbVDzCEbLrRNws4wL/s640/20190703_161109.jpg" width="606" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Lao Poste employees were exceptionally helpful. Hopefully we'll see our souvenirs again in 1-2 months!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning market. The open-top tubs are full of eels, the screen-covered tub is full of frogs.</td></tr>
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Next up: a 22-hour layover on our way to Bali means a quick interlude in Bangkok.<br />
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Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-91233468618084609232019-06-30T20:05:00.000-07:002019-06-30T20:05:00.786-07:00The Long Way Home: Hill Tribe TrekLast time we left off as we were whisked away from our guest house to start our 3-day trek to visit the hill tribe villages in northern Thailand!<br />
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We got a quick introductory video on the Mirror Foundation, the NGO that ran the trek and homestay program and met our guides.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOQUFF49WVql2dAWA-lcg_CnBN_Dvk58Nm60ereoeG0jYv5DdqmQvChKoqqNvkndKnXH1i_30kNzw2OP0PSqvMJmUquXocCJ5Mpp7BZ3r_fRksXp-Ar4ToFyNQeiOZOSWWhJkmqm8nNerK/s1600/20190626_100341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOQUFF49WVql2dAWA-lcg_CnBN_Dvk58Nm60ereoeG0jYv5DdqmQvChKoqqNvkndKnXH1i_30kNzw2OP0PSqvMJmUquXocCJ5Mpp7BZ3r_fRksXp-Ar4ToFyNQeiOZOSWWhJkmqm8nNerK/s640/20190626_100341.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is it still a tree fort if it's just on stilts? Stilt fort?</td></tr>
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Pe’ was our official guide, spoke some English, and ended up being our cultural ambassador. Belu was her cousin and our actual guide, spoke no English but seemed to be the expert on the routes, medicinal and edible herbs, and the one carrying the machete. Dum was the dog that followed Pe’ for security. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXO8g0u6rFJNo3XZq9kVfmcIv411rICN1yMe1-pfBrS9U1Mv9OZzu2VQqPpfmAj69xHok5eTGfFjXqVnoqYo_T08VJZYTE-uOlYnfMuKz-zL9_r6RyZFd_0zr1MF5bK0wNxJB9K19dixeI/s1600/20190626_101004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1554" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXO8g0u6rFJNo3XZq9kVfmcIv411rICN1yMe1-pfBrS9U1Mv9OZzu2VQqPpfmAj69xHok5eTGfFjXqVnoqYo_T08VJZYTE-uOlYnfMuKz-zL9_r6RyZFd_0zr1MF5bK0wNxJB9K19dixeI/s640/20190626_101004.jpg" width="620" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left to right, top to bottom: Pe', Belu, Middle Child, Dum</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPpjti4T5rHbNynT6-3wL3mqy-rdmfSXwE5Cj4oBjOjiiKkVx1_4urIqNdSdPIufI0GkpPHAtyJEyYZ50NITYkr768aW2zELdJX3yT8ahEbkiFxsyglI_ufbqXDqSfLhjRop5wWr-tkQin/s1600/GOPR0749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPpjti4T5rHbNynT6-3wL3mqy-rdmfSXwE5Cj4oBjOjiiKkVx1_4urIqNdSdPIufI0GkpPHAtyJEyYZ50NITYkr768aW2zELdJX3yT8ahEbkiFxsyglI_ufbqXDqSfLhjRop5wWr-tkQin/s640/GOPR0749.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forest herbs being applied to Eldest's scraped knee. Worth noting: when Dum got bit by another dog she used off-the-shelf disinfectant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNgJt3Cc7_4nDJJ5H96pd5WuWCCm7fcEqbKcyfMWfnrfkxfa9BhkABZE6znjNJO606JzAf7kv1QqgYW5jiYQqEB2MlnrjO_S0Fmw2J3k-7h910kNP8KCBFtcV93nOgX4FK3lXxV5de6ICt/s1600/GOPR0739.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNgJt3Cc7_4nDJJ5H96pd5WuWCCm7fcEqbKcyfMWfnrfkxfa9BhkABZE6znjNJO606JzAf7kv1QqgYW5jiYQqEB2MlnrjO_S0Fmw2J3k-7h910kNP8KCBFtcV93nOgX4FK3lXxV5de6ICt/s640/GOPR0739.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is totally a trail. Totally.</td></tr>
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We discovered that the boundary between hot season and wet season is not “mild” season – rather it means each day is either 100F or pouring rain. The first day was former, and we suffered mightily (especially whichever adult was carrying Danger Monkey). We had Lunch and rest stops in field houses, built near the farms so that farmers can get started early. We had to do a fair amount of bushwhacking with the machete to get through some overgrown trails (this is not a busy season, even for the locals), and once had to partially disassemble a bamboo animal fence to get through. Pe’ was unconcerned, and didn’t think the cows would escape.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBjmYdt-gLQ7oCSK3xJUeRAbblB-O7T-Nix6LtIsZS7HND5UUXJBp84Wh5pCrWp9c6y9LKDbQXlvacb0qKTMgQCKjcEcPQZGIMB6Qs79lu13uu8XPZ4TdWAPDoAolcFafk0QygID6l7KAw/s1600/GOPR0742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBjmYdt-gLQ7oCSK3xJUeRAbblB-O7T-Nix6LtIsZS7HND5UUXJBp84Wh5pCrWp9c6y9LKDbQXlvacb0qKTMgQCKjcEcPQZGIMB6Qs79lu13uu8XPZ4TdWAPDoAolcFafk0QygID6l7KAw/s640/GOPR0742.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yup. Definitely a trail.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwcts3bQVdZySEpgkwWZ_i5s5jfxGLwPwffW5X5Bv-_xUl6h0Pw09Wvb1oOO3lanrPukZwgd2Y2SxW_iy4UKLzQHNhOXXkNgvDagjPgkraArsuZK_At-CvX_YjaFGKeRDel9ntty62YQ16/s640/GOPR0740.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It turns out bamboo and banana leaves can be used to build basically anything.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXgn2dYM4ba9kCIbE9WroMEfkHVsiI30F-mEF5dnIKcJazVQvVqQk5Tb8Cp83R6uK6u1ORmzt4XMNvgEeQSaanOJouEmbYLuhr7yTDzYAdriNyp8mUVoYI8WO7wWMmxoMHfHP0pplvXAkv/s1600/GOPR0736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXgn2dYM4ba9kCIbE9WroMEfkHVsiI30F-mEF5dnIKcJazVQvVqQk5Tb8Cp83R6uK6u1ORmzt4XMNvgEeQSaanOJouEmbYLuhr7yTDzYAdriNyp8mUVoYI8WO7wWMmxoMHfHP0pplvXAkv/s640/GOPR0736.JPG" width="638" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were butterflies *everywhere*. How novel to experience a fully functioning ecosystem!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiABZ0gWbSDjF5i5cnm5IU0pLQIL6WKqpw4I7BwBsbI4poMn6mgGwbhoo97zVEt94Srg4yds6SEyRW-rDRske7eJZPEcCmdyZjZU1zHpsakPdITVVtYDWoFl74nKP_2s3Y3KdjA1-_ejUfL/s1600/GOPR0744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiABZ0gWbSDjF5i5cnm5IU0pLQIL6WKqpw4I7BwBsbI4poMn6mgGwbhoo97zVEt94Srg4yds6SEyRW-rDRske7eJZPEcCmdyZjZU1zHpsakPdITVVtYDWoFl74nKP_2s3Y3KdjA1-_ejUfL/s640/GOPR0744.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We were told the rains were late this year. Bad for farmers, but good for hiking.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirF3BVjE_Y0RrwJX8GWTgJUJgbh7YxwDnna-hqSsnwjCbgaCo8ehLebgwzJsM6SMjut7VE-cdVvuO_kfAxbc_-ohtneTCITssQzJw_aTRvtf2vnlxwlWb6B0LcPxMgW_yyS15abie8urJ1/s1600/GOPR0812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="738" data-original-width="1600" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirF3BVjE_Y0RrwJX8GWTgJUJgbh7YxwDnna-hqSsnwjCbgaCo8ehLebgwzJsM6SMjut7VE-cdVvuO_kfAxbc_-ohtneTCITssQzJw_aTRvtf2vnlxwlWb6B0LcPxMgW_yyS15abie8urJ1/s640/GOPR0812.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mist on the mountains.</td></tr>
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Agriculture in the region we were trekking through was primarily subsistence, although some villages had started to farm cash crops and sell one of their two annual rice harvests. Later, when we asked about the traditional houses and buildings made of teak, bamboo, and grass we were told that the people preferred “strong houses” because they didn’t need to get rebuilt every year or two, but building strong houses takes money, which takes cash crops, which takes space, which means clearing jungle, which means losing the nearby resources needed to build traditional houses. So it was sort of a one-way transition.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJkcC1Zw29CfeTyS6EcXcS5jS9EcttUFghmRhQZQ5XLLrJ24-Q71NQoalTYV2QS6ase4W3A1uqTceUUnxvUUr9iNp352lkozfOQKQhvPS66v1lt7aCkyMEJUbUhgvZAbcAbOY-l76ynUDU/s1600/20190627_212621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="886" data-original-width="1600" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJkcC1Zw29CfeTyS6EcXcS5jS9EcttUFghmRhQZQ5XLLrJ24-Q71NQoalTYV2QS6ase4W3A1uqTceUUnxvUUr9iNp352lkozfOQKQhvPS66v1lt7aCkyMEJUbUhgvZAbcAbOY-l76ynUDU/s640/20190627_212621.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fish ponds. Rice paddies were between harvests, and not yet flooded.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP3mXpnB71y1gI_OB-GG8NyCkRqb1nOiLTy-MQxrcMPzLpWPeVdaz6APi-cYQHaM49LHC64sKoEqcxHs9lS6csYnpHulz-KYollQPpdz5MylmYSsZyQzNEoxVLnJyIy18DQzlM05VWcfwE/s1600/GOPR0798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP3mXpnB71y1gI_OB-GG8NyCkRqb1nOiLTy-MQxrcMPzLpWPeVdaz6APi-cYQHaM49LHC64sKoEqcxHs9lS6csYnpHulz-KYollQPpdz5MylmYSsZyQzNEoxVLnJyIy18DQzlM05VWcfwE/s640/GOPR0798.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even though it looks like wild jungle, this is basically all managed agriculture.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The distinction between traditional villages and “economic” ones (we think she meant “commercial”) was pretty stark. The first village we stayed in, with the Lahu tribespeople, had no electricity and the only running water was from rain cisterns a little ways up the hill. The Akha village was a little more integrated with the local economy, and actually had electricity after about 8 PM and the chief wore a gold wristwatch. We stayed with the village chief in both places, and were put up in the nicest buildings available. Though honestly the field houses seemed just fine, and actually let the breeze in much better. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJv92Zmtn1VOSPZT1uVnikbsGNsmRG33MS9HnkMjcvKbJh1S3VKSYIg2CJdmQUeF98CMmDfcByigmUeN6xSnbpEEmXSuS6JXnnLFL7KtDLoDpaDSjKmYJzpN600bmVuV1cvQnuQWxjemXw/s1600/20190626_101331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJv92Zmtn1VOSPZT1uVnikbsGNsmRG33MS9HnkMjcvKbJh1S3VKSYIg2CJdmQUeF98CMmDfcByigmUeN6xSnbpEEmXSuS6JXnnLFL7KtDLoDpaDSjKmYJzpN600bmVuV1cvQnuQWxjemXw/s640/20190626_101331.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our Lahu homestay. Kitchen on the left, bedrooms up above, dogs and laundry underneath. The big open windows let the swallows that nested underneath the house fly through and eat mosquitoes.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp_AXWr3KKi_lJv0U2NM5doJbJqcXH3ox13da7rCHMTZmP3g4E3CSAEoeBNe54lJZcYTxkVrUxF9hZoe0Ib2jqCqXsJpw6cuv-FmpooK__xD0hJRq-stNSSzRB_7u_M9PZFVka-5gua9ra/s1600/GOPR0747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp_AXWr3KKi_lJv0U2NM5doJbJqcXH3ox13da7rCHMTZmP3g4E3CSAEoeBNe54lJZcYTxkVrUxF9hZoe0Ib2jqCqXsJpw6cuv-FmpooK__xD0hJRq-stNSSzRB_7u_M9PZFVka-5gua9ra/s640/GOPR0747.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dum is a very good boy</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb0Jv5nMZUjXZQffihVzTQSWTpctBvRErb73ADcYqS-VrSKCHCDYRxfMwjxOpwU7f3JyFH94W4qb9LIrYYd006c4PO8LGuC0-quNEQqy9p179onW6aAo_0WQnqipn62Df87FGBqnFTxJGK/s1600/GOPR0765.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb0Jv5nMZUjXZQffihVzTQSWTpctBvRErb73ADcYqS-VrSKCHCDYRxfMwjxOpwU7f3JyFH94W4qb9LIrYYd006c4PO8LGuC0-quNEQqy9p179onW6aAo_0WQnqipn62Df87FGBqnFTxJGK/s640/GOPR0765.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keeping a healthy distance away from mama duck</td></tr>
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In each village we were treated to some traditional dancing, with everyone bringing out their fancy traditional outfits and doing a few dances and songs. It wasn’t exactly the right season, and the outfits were awfully hot. This literal song-and-dance routine, in addition to the whole home-stay program, has become a common way for hill tribes to make a little extra money without having to sacrifice traditional ways of life.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuQwEgp0oWH55Fe5lwDQNEE8RneWaRlO1L8MPntnuzyM_voE5gXkVisMcv96F1BKlkX-TpMvxROtCV5Fz9SpCvC0G71dNNRwtB_vFqJcybUN7ZUvMhijF0UUa0-vVtYga6TkEXve8HONh6/s1600/GOPR0777.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuQwEgp0oWH55Fe5lwDQNEE8RneWaRlO1L8MPntnuzyM_voE5gXkVisMcv96F1BKlkX-TpMvxROtCV5Fz9SpCvC0G71dNNRwtB_vFqJcybUN7ZUvMhijF0UUa0-vVtYga6TkEXve8HONh6/s640/GOPR0777.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eldest trying on the traditional Lahu ceremonial costume. The joke will be on us when we find out later that she accidentally got married that morning.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNPxzuVp46ZQPWreHNCzEX4fWdyIvj8onznW0uv8MDWJxyW8SecV2TdwiN3sYfq0j-s2aQW40-XQ4lYLTzg5AuOMPR2XZkxj2_JxQr1aZUaQUYuJA6AA2NQShpiQYSs_CyYD1-jNwAwymu/s1600/GOPR0804.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNPxzuVp46ZQPWreHNCzEX4fWdyIvj8onznW0uv8MDWJxyW8SecV2TdwiN3sYfq0j-s2aQW40-XQ4lYLTzg5AuOMPR2XZkxj2_JxQr1aZUaQUYuJA6AA2NQShpiQYSs_CyYD1-jNwAwymu/s640/GOPR0804.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Late-night dance in the Akha village.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLVhItPe_Dtr_DvWeNSjK_6jY3yzW4wL8pGjx6_3SjtCgRqBSYQbjc6bRdJtDnYJ0zTklBhpx6Iiqu1TzNvn8rB3KR6Jh975QCReB8-NRJbljewIVDjkfwMGnCCvnmICJ3J_i7fZgJzRK0/s1600/20190627_212214.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="875" data-original-width="1600" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLVhItPe_Dtr_DvWeNSjK_6jY3yzW4wL8pGjx6_3SjtCgRqBSYQbjc6bRdJtDnYJ0zTklBhpx6Iiqu1TzNvn8rB3KR6Jh975QCReB8-NRJbljewIVDjkfwMGnCCvnmICJ3J_i7fZgJzRK0/s640/20190627_212214.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo op! The small boy insisted on being front and center.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Village life itself was pretty laid back. There were chores of course, and during the day the village emptied as the villagers all went out to the fields to tend rice seedlings or collect bamboo shoots in the forest, but there was still plenty of relaxing and talking into the evening after the sun went down. About 50% of village concerns appeared to be dog management, trying to keep various packs of dogs where they were supposed to be and/or not fighting with the other packs of dogs. The dogs were security, mostly from animals. The first night one of the village dogs found a poisonous snake in the gutter, which a village woman unceremoniously clubbed to death and threw down the slope for the chickens to eat. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk3PjaI8QfzQSP4Ty9JTGSyHrPcmfVywhqAK31d3D1wOmXXTY9pqy6PGsQfzd7h5Q2QagtBAhGJewU_ixdYyPVl_uj-2nzOTpPi-_E9RYOBkCemrmfJj-ZCkLZ06FAwq5HqgVPFBcgBd8Z/s1600/20190627_212028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk3PjaI8QfzQSP4Ty9JTGSyHrPcmfVywhqAK31d3D1wOmXXTY9pqy6PGsQfzd7h5Q2QagtBAhGJewU_ixdYyPVl_uj-2nzOTpPi-_E9RYOBkCemrmfJj-ZCkLZ06FAwq5HqgVPFBcgBd8Z/s640/20190627_212028.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Must try all the rolling toys</td></tr>
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The mountain tribe food was more or less unlike anything we had ever had, and was universally amazing. Some notable examples were “Galangal”, whose boiled stalks tasted like pumpkin pie spices and whose flower buds are spicy like chilli peppers, “barrab”, a salad made from chopped pig wrapped in wild mint leaves (normally served raw, but also amazingly delicious cooked to a safe temperature), banana flower fritters, pumpkin curry, whole-chicken soup full of organs and feet, sugar-sweet pineapple straight from the field, infinite bananas, and every village has their own spicy paste made from chilis, small river fish, and whatever other aromatics were within 100 meters of the kitchen. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPZc5SU0vQYc7w8wQgDsQwTZWZJkcBlGy7__DaJfSJutyTLK8yNm0UsV8XvuSvmxRTlYDrccP_zwCiKrfCj4yrcYIJHR_G4_91K5Q2CTNB10-3JZp-MD8T-iO6C6PExurUsTRpJoc_Yoe2/s1600/20190625_202003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1561" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPZc5SU0vQYc7w8wQgDsQwTZWZJkcBlGy7__DaJfSJutyTLK8yNm0UsV8XvuSvmxRTlYDrccP_zwCiKrfCj4yrcYIJHR_G4_91K5Q2CTNB10-3JZp-MD8T-iO6C6PExurUsTRpJoc_Yoe2/s640/20190625_202003.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breakfast was about a dozen different sticky rice, coconut, and bean concoctions.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTagk6iWb3OtRCJvKDC0AGbygVzE8t-WLNz7Nl9pUsRgAmw5QsxAGuUuhsEb02OYIRvgDHaAQ2l3uo2a4epwYSo6zpvtNE5KReNAwi9XPLsS24pckjBGXUfwz5IZrU3Ds-FUQMqMt5PoI/s1600/GOPR0752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTagk6iWb3OtRCJvKDC0AGbygVzE8t-WLNz7Nl9pUsRgAmw5QsxAGuUuhsEb02OYIRvgDHaAQ2l3uo2a4epwYSo6zpvtNE5KReNAwi9XPLsS24pckjBGXUfwz5IZrU3Ds-FUQMqMt5PoI/s640/GOPR0752.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch stop on the first day, in the middle of a banana plantation</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ7BRgS92nXrv7mT3Oe8OFazt-PYS8O0ZfZCwQbiROw__5JeKQ5bLqjDWEhBYQSto1wTZoP52R3e7Kv1DgcjXZV244OKFqlQSP7hK3dso68SchIIgw1t3SF-b-Q4MeP08Bx0h52H6rO9C1/s1600/GOPR0758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ7BRgS92nXrv7mT3Oe8OFazt-PYS8O0ZfZCwQbiROw__5JeKQ5bLqjDWEhBYQSto1wTZoP52R3e7Kv1DgcjXZV244OKFqlQSP7hK3dso68SchIIgw1t3SF-b-Q4MeP08Bx0h52H6rO9C1/s640/GOPR0758.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pe' sets the table</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc65uobFvJ_iS9GhABnU-3vLdMDGisZPF_ry11pnJIkMFiEGE6RgtZ3E3j5_7THRyoVc3PrSGUvDoynOCNcCsksgoXf5gWJFMRz3tx1kKrZx8mLIKSQlxAfnGDR6I04_3OhOizZ491bS-2/s1600/20190626_100742.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc65uobFvJ_iS9GhABnU-3vLdMDGisZPF_ry11pnJIkMFiEGE6RgtZ3E3j5_7THRyoVc3PrSGUvDoynOCNcCsksgoXf5gWJFMRz3tx1kKrZx8mLIKSQlxAfnGDR6I04_3OhOizZ491bS-2/s640/20190626_100742.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making desert. Roasted coconut, wrapped in sweetened rice-flour dough, steamed in banana leaf envelopes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigQf3g6Hh2UyQV9cj34i0emr4zzIuCVXuJJzAkTxeAx2yIBEWkyl01aa3PM2iXzxAYvAf7znYdndbyyemSij_5R4kb80YDyPE4wihCyhslUkFwEaBWdlqx-0shu86UBsoYL8KeCN5COD7L/s1600/20190626_101417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1165" data-original-width="1600" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigQf3g6Hh2UyQV9cj34i0emr4zzIuCVXuJJzAkTxeAx2yIBEWkyl01aa3PM2iXzxAYvAf7znYdndbyyemSij_5R4kb80YDyPE4wihCyhslUkFwEaBWdlqx-0shu86UBsoYL8KeCN5COD7L/s640/20190626_101417.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Utensil use varied by tribe. Akha use sticks, Lahu (pictured above) eat mostly by hand. Also: a kitten under the table.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxBc4j4EjPDwT1C9d1mHa26SGnQ8e_2PW4N0V03197dGYCUsvFgeSNINKbXtlw-FwXC0-0_Cammcu1taK1QtyQE9ONU7xpppXnpkHnLO-nqqzvxO_gRFM7QY9_dpYjh-tIMsnSPvXKTX4C/s1600/GOPR0800.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxBc4j4EjPDwT1C9d1mHa26SGnQ8e_2PW4N0V03197dGYCUsvFgeSNINKbXtlw-FwXC0-0_Cammcu1taK1QtyQE9ONU7xpppXnpkHnLO-nqqzvxO_gRFM7QY9_dpYjh-tIMsnSPvXKTX4C/s640/GOPR0800.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Best meal of the trip. Barrab, pumpkin curry, galagal stalks and flowers, forest garlic, wild mint, and other aromatic leafy things that we never found out the names of</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh40t0eCBpRJqUrUmFYN2XJRvvBKFahwxaWSau8QhHhJ-CaEOtPDzzAatrUvJ21aQdydcJthbMzPY2Js5T2SqfaOsA3qqa5Lih_X27q4URvlGDlBK2pzu6ctbF8ROoSq0rL2O-2yZ4bQyhJ/s1600/GOPR0784.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh40t0eCBpRJqUrUmFYN2XJRvvBKFahwxaWSau8QhHhJ-CaEOtPDzzAatrUvJ21aQdydcJthbMzPY2Js5T2SqfaOsA3qqa5Lih_X27q4URvlGDlBK2pzu6ctbF8ROoSq0rL2O-2yZ4bQyhJ/s640/GOPR0784.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More of the same for breakfast, but also with steamed baby pumpkin vines!</td></tr>
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After lunch (and after waiting out the hottest part of the day in the hammocks pictured above) we hiked up the mountain to a waterfall. We were told later by one of the villagers (Atto, who had lived in Bangkok from age 5 until 25 and spoke pretty good English) that we saw "the best one".<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYYZdiJ82QM1txOwGuNrLzEmX5xWgyP_UHZoZ981SY5QXT_T2Q8xbr4r9AJbeqmOWw0qQlhZiNxQoN2eAm7Zb1D2LFe_-T1k-8z8fAwDZUmnaM_QcuQOrM5vw9AXPg8RLYOCppLFhRvzra/s1600/GOPR0792.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYYZdiJ82QM1txOwGuNrLzEmX5xWgyP_UHZoZ981SY5QXT_T2Q8xbr4r9AJbeqmOWw0qQlhZiNxQoN2eAm7Zb1D2LFe_-T1k-8z8fAwDZUmnaM_QcuQOrM5vw9AXPg8RLYOCppLFhRvzra/s640/GOPR0792.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As bridges go in rural northern Thailand, this one was pretty good.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRF6yz812Wm8YLdXufBGCNLJgn8T-A_OFjkGh7xeup5QFqrpsr-Fp2FiFr3fxQDgY-It7NvKmmn_3JiB5Kjod5Ax6esGeyua65MXWD630ogFtFqzFw0UyTMSJw4y1bDtgK0F2_Rrfokngu/s1600/20190626_101735.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1368" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRF6yz812Wm8YLdXufBGCNLJgn8T-A_OFjkGh7xeup5QFqrpsr-Fp2FiFr3fxQDgY-It7NvKmmn_3JiB5Kjod5Ax6esGeyua65MXWD630ogFtFqzFw0UyTMSJw4y1bDtgK0F2_Rrfokngu/s640/20190626_101735.jpg" width="546" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool and refreshing</td></tr>
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The next day we headed back to the hustle and bustle of the slightly-less-primitive villages and cosmopolitan Chiang Rai. The car and driver that were supposed to bring us the last leg of the trek back to the Karen village for a weaving demonstration wasn't answering his phone, so Pe' called up her niece to come bring us some more water and drive Eldest back on her motorbike.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbYHpQxXjSOoAfFeav6Rju0QrfEIV3KAN0vIrUyXoOQeu7hporRHstEd1WhdqeOa8xDJGHE0HzLw1n953KcCbTMOFtQqAW0nBISt1dtYhQWS-W79etyMD6FXoeXWBMNrgw3lT7bIOxM9GW/s1600/20190627_212806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="688" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbYHpQxXjSOoAfFeav6Rju0QrfEIV3KAN0vIrUyXoOQeu7hporRHstEd1WhdqeOa8xDJGHE0HzLw1n953KcCbTMOFtQqAW0nBISt1dtYhQWS-W79etyMD6FXoeXWBMNrgw3lT7bIOxM9GW/s640/20190627_212806.jpg" width="274" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Look Ma, No Helmet!"</td></tr>
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The rest of us eventually made it back as well, and found Eldest had already been taught the basics and had generated about an inch of serviceable cloth. Everyone got in on the project and we hung out through a rainstorm. The littles played make believe games in motorcycle helmets and Danger Monkey got her hair done by Pe’s niece. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW385x-doJvDUE-ntZG8-xKB3Sx5KuilyUWeHP4_AkRrfX_FO5vnAsWntLnhvVkxqWwrXj3gIrKRMLMdBNqiT7TIFoiuJM8otAT2oxSC9_h_WHcp7enHuJ6ymDQPky4EgfRSKpDHE8LaC6/s1600/20190627_213014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="697" data-original-width="1600" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW385x-doJvDUE-ntZG8-xKB3Sx5KuilyUWeHP4_AkRrfX_FO5vnAsWntLnhvVkxqWwrXj3gIrKRMLMdBNqiT7TIFoiuJM8otAT2oxSC9_h_WHcp7enHuJ6ymDQPky4EgfRSKpDHE8LaC6/s640/20190627_213014.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danger Monkey's job is to eat ALL THE FRUIT</td></tr>
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On our way back to our guest house we took a detour to visit the White Temple, and all three kids got their first ride in the back of a pickup truck.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCOiTvLTM4Ea-1KifKi8MZOHzfBKC6AL1TDPpoukFW-ALQ006k4LvirJTNvGqZK3IiahobaY8_4PVtdESOJ00qVK4RK25R_wpWYz9rZ3ATNbt_gpqjxjGDybRQsaG4yeCUOulsgrH05kHN/s1600/GOPR0838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCOiTvLTM4Ea-1KifKi8MZOHzfBKC6AL1TDPpoukFW-ALQ006k4LvirJTNvGqZK3IiahobaY8_4PVtdESOJ00qVK4RK25R_wpWYz9rZ3ATNbt_gpqjxjGDybRQsaG4yeCUOulsgrH05kHN/s640/GOPR0838.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the distance: GIANT WHITE BUDDHA STATUE. It is unrelated to the White Temple.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6a-9cgiYxb4CRyCftKg7GEP1n9pitgsr_JqmTCRHgXTN1_wJda2Vxwl7T1tkEBFyE0_tfcdpL0fZKX-iRKrgJK4ptH_9miU3jKVJ9zRrCoJsDC7WnuhowGn3uQY2PXpKJwGMXWyf7bPAH/s1600/GOPR0840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6a-9cgiYxb4CRyCftKg7GEP1n9pitgsr_JqmTCRHgXTN1_wJda2Vxwl7T1tkEBFyE0_tfcdpL0fZKX-iRKrgJK4ptH_9miU3jKVJ9zRrCoJsDC7WnuhowGn3uQY2PXpKJwGMXWyf7bPAH/s640/GOPR0840.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On second thought, let us not go to the White Temple. 'Tis a silly place.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq3etCiQQIlzD0_PTVcAltDYtd2Dc1wd2j-ig8Li5lOy2uFxHTQjIf825swHqdjM_HIsAfDOJR8hzVMc87xvX6hnzLuey5DbDW_sRksRhVC5dt9fitsur-jJMKm4CpBWoK3vJq_7gSqK20/s1600/GOPR0847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq3etCiQQIlzD0_PTVcAltDYtd2Dc1wd2j-ig8Li5lOy2uFxHTQjIf825swHqdjM_HIsAfDOJR8hzVMc87xvX6hnzLuey5DbDW_sRksRhVC5dt9fitsur-jJMKm4CpBWoK3vJq_7gSqK20/s640/GOPR0847.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abandon all hope ye who enter here</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbiZFHR1vpkErKRrN4eEiYanRTR62IdfJfrn6no5dW7gEp8lqB755z-kDS9ZSBB4mJpssrUx6LWPTEEst_2NCOw8qrcWsDU6BytfVjE90bwVAgRcWwAoQOrwIaIDN2n_5uL40ianrsjTOB/s1600/GOPR0851.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbiZFHR1vpkErKRrN4eEiYanRTR62IdfJfrn6no5dW7gEp8lqB755z-kDS9ZSBB4mJpssrUx6LWPTEEst_2NCOw8qrcWsDU6BytfVjE90bwVAgRcWwAoQOrwIaIDN2n_5uL40ianrsjTOB/s640/GOPR0851.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When life gives you temples, paint that shit gold</td></tr>
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The trek and homestays were a pretty amazing experience, and we talked about how it's good to re-calibrate your assumptions about the range of human experience from time to time. A lot of the things we think we need seem more frivolous than they did before, and Michael deeply appreciates his cushy desk job after imagining life working a pineapple plantation planted on a 60-degree slope. But the time spent in the villages also reinforces our belief that people are basically people the world over. The Akha chief's daughter was heading into Chiang Rai to have a baby the day that we left, and we waved goodbye as she was packed into the family truck along with a week's worth of food and clothes. We had danced and eaten with her sisters and mother, our kids played with her older children. Even though we had basically zero common language, it highlighted the foundational humanity that connects us all.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnuixKQna5pncv7-ANKL_MNnH4o3eYwU7uKkK8jUWXxuMMra8f5dqVgm6mlPnyf0dt4XRQoCanG4fgdTWINfytDX-T2E8eLArt13rLfmrm8KlNDomUScAt8heYpjaVPOJObCTur6BRwOBX/s1600/GOPR0853.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnuixKQna5pncv7-ANKL_MNnH4o3eYwU7uKkK8jUWXxuMMra8f5dqVgm6mlPnyf0dt4XRQoCanG4fgdTWINfytDX-T2E8eLArt13rLfmrm8KlNDomUScAt8heYpjaVPOJObCTur6BRwOBX/s640/GOPR0853.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-75760172395953503812019-06-27T03:10:00.002-07:002019-06-27T03:10:43.751-07:00The Long Way Home: Chiang MaiWe had thought that the northern Thailand leg of our trip was going to be a single blog post, but we couldn't figure out how to narrow the variety of experiences down into a sane number of words and pictures. So here's the first half!<br />
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We started our short 3 days in Chiang Mai with a relaxing mid-afternoon dip in the pool in the shadow of an old Chedi.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUmfNKQvFmff30ISo7O_vHlnyniuN5PtiJsL313Epto7JMtQf5gD_GXItaGmgaZa6l3FVqrv3xP2nd2pfd8AU-VQzh8OMLyxCSoEdEm6yLO3XwLf6MIBWuWtehgxDeU8ikluDNAJTeC-cf/s1600/GOPR0505.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUmfNKQvFmff30ISo7O_vHlnyniuN5PtiJsL313Epto7JMtQf5gD_GXItaGmgaZa6l3FVqrv3xP2nd2pfd8AU-VQzh8OMLyxCSoEdEm6yLO3XwLf6MIBWuWtehgxDeU8ikluDNAJTeC-cf/s640/GOPR0505.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was basically the photo on hotels.com that sold us on this place</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixepzoSKtB5ZEz7fGnDjEyr45lvScnX2DxqI9mwaPieaPL3kfhEO7ZSGoGTX3267NB1kV_6EtQ7B70uZpxHLZcLYpi_-gAlYrVT6KEsIiVMR3Ol_R2gQUF3NvIQE7N10a3MKTWWoGj4Cb6/s1600/GOPR0566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixepzoSKtB5ZEz7fGnDjEyr45lvScnX2DxqI9mwaPieaPL3kfhEO7ZSGoGTX3267NB1kV_6EtQ7B70uZpxHLZcLYpi_-gAlYrVT6KEsIiVMR3Ol_R2gQUF3NvIQE7N10a3MKTWWoGj4Cb6/s640/GOPR0566.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">French fries are part of a complete breakfast.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Then we set out to explore the town on foot. We were staying just outside where the city walls used to stand (some of them still do, but are not particularly well preserved), and strolled into the old town to check out some of the “must-see” temple complexes. Chiang Mai was a planned regional capital of the Lan Na empire that was built about 650 years ago, and is just about as dense with amazing stuff as Bangkok but with a lot less noise and smog. We frequently found ourselves diverting into random temples that were as beautiful and elaborate as anything that we saw anywhere else and ended up spending the rest of the evening just exploring.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ebU0WZgv7B7pU6WX06GmDhA0XhrdSmNEh1vATjDuDu6-EPdRxN7JulXV43n65FyYo81p-OJg9s7O8Rd1kCiiUSLD28FeJuzioepz8ivJve05ZbWQETZ6qNtAYFnrxTsavZYUZ1A0gnLt/s1600/GOPR0545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ebU0WZgv7B7pU6WX06GmDhA0XhrdSmNEh1vATjDuDu6-EPdRxN7JulXV43n65FyYo81p-OJg9s7O8Rd1kCiiUSLD28FeJuzioepz8ivJve05ZbWQETZ6qNtAYFnrxTsavZYUZ1A0gnLt/s640/GOPR0545.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This wasn't even on the map.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCvJHIrFBpX96DDJHmNn-9pveKgqZmFKqBaOmwUe0pomTw6Uedak4sWe70fV6BemilREaZHtzD3T3b9mrmTYYWx0y29NphkHTAgHmg4imEd-t4gnSA-UJNrfg9qlgiRstnTxZu9cJsXtjA/s1600/GOPR0549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCvJHIrFBpX96DDJHmNn-9pveKgqZmFKqBaOmwUe0pomTw6Uedak4sWe70fV6BemilREaZHtzD3T3b9mrmTYYWx0y29NphkHTAgHmg4imEd-t4gnSA-UJNrfg9qlgiRstnTxZu9cJsXtjA/s640/GOPR0549.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A beautiful evening for giant golden spires</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0wPwyO6T9cI4EdwgTEmq7CgCdEMHM6Pn3_eBmEHxRBY1TwunToeNsxSEThdRmQ5pGvmkfv6aMpAqeV-O2ZTAbD4vOBYbI0Fum-ZUMQB8gofKvT5bN9UgRecDXgg1fpyati-G1_qLEDUPK/s1600/GOPR0557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0wPwyO6T9cI4EdwgTEmq7CgCdEMHM6Pn3_eBmEHxRBY1TwunToeNsxSEThdRmQ5pGvmkfv6aMpAqeV-O2ZTAbD4vOBYbI0Fum-ZUMQB8gofKvT5bN9UgRecDXgg1fpyati-G1_qLEDUPK/s640/GOPR0557.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Rainy Season" = "No Crowds"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJZQi6vCybFb8G5p1Im178zsp2kExqYzEHjuiCWhpS8BvEWUXoZ7GMXmwuvktMI9DWbJGMTgjG4-rOxMNJtIWh-gknZ0Ygy8m3k3qiN70UND7Rg5eKV7Bjrznj24f8U2qI-fHDcFqLeolr/s1600/GOPR0563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJZQi6vCybFb8G5p1Im178zsp2kExqYzEHjuiCWhpS8BvEWUXoZ7GMXmwuvktMI9DWbJGMTgjG4-rOxMNJtIWh-gknZ0Ygy8m3k3qiN70UND7Rg5eKV7Bjrznj24f8U2qI-fHDcFqLeolr/s640/GOPR0563.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reminded us of Angkor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The locals were exeptionaly welcoming and friendly, Elizabeth and Danger Monkey struck up a conversation with a woman who was at the temple for her daily prayers, but they declined to wait an unknown amount of time for the monk to show up and lead them in meditation. We did eventually make it to Wat Chedi Luang, a historically significant 14th century temple that was damaged in a 17th century earthquake, before getting a bite to eat at a small restaurant specializing in northern Thai cuisine. Michael was adventurous and got the pork-and-chicken-blood soup. <br />
<br />
The next morning we had a cooking class, complete with a visit to a local market. By this point we have seen kind of a lot of Southeast Asian wet markets and tried to skip, but to no avail. We got a quick intro to ingredients where we did learn a little bit about Thai cuisine ingredients (which just goes to show that the world is fractal... the closer you look the more you’ll find!), and we let the kids run loose with a hundred Baht each (about $3 US). Eldest picked up some tea, Middle Child got a huge sack of dried mango, and Danger Monkey got a bag of deep-fried pork skin (“skin pops” was apparently the best translation). Then we went to the class itself, and had a blast and learned a ton about Thai food preparation. Big takeaways for us: dark soy sauce is 30% soya sauce, 70% molasses. Massage your noodles in the dark soy sauce before cooking for that even brown color, smash your lemongrass with the side of your knife to get the flavor out, pre-cook the potatoes for massaman curry, throw the pad thai noodles in dry, highest heat all the time, more peppercorns is more better. The resulting food was some of the best thai food we’ve ever had.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-PtmvrQidaQKgIZI3EQhDGnl_M9SUI0PbpVbHu0dcLp5uZ4kzpdsgh7KAxiz1obg1xPW_4gVaESLCZYsjUyfGZVYm49O-jkhZjs98TxvWVfc9QShVHTiYgCOdePOd_a0U5oZGS96E4CKM/s1600/20190627_150805.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-PtmvrQidaQKgIZI3EQhDGnl_M9SUI0PbpVbHu0dcLp5uZ4kzpdsgh7KAxiz1obg1xPW_4gVaESLCZYsjUyfGZVYm49O-jkhZjs98TxvWVfc9QShVHTiYgCOdePOd_a0U5oZGS96E4CKM/s640/20190627_150805.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All other knives are inferior to this knife.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWvchBAiFjUbDarR5ZBk4ZJC3q-TeY4hVI270pDBd08XOKQ_HB90j5IldANs8KoDo59RaCW3DaS-RgWjrYryN0R66LplzlbBPtZgcmZ_xHiKAro8NPuWvugaH79voYRomauADpNrBLRylT/s1600/20190627_151009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1458" data-original-width="1600" height="582" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWvchBAiFjUbDarR5ZBk4ZJC3q-TeY4hVI270pDBd08XOKQ_HB90j5IldANs8KoDo59RaCW3DaS-RgWjrYryN0R66LplzlbBPtZgcmZ_xHiKAro8NPuWvugaH79voYRomauADpNrBLRylT/s640/20190627_151009.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helping! She also peeled the garlic - her favorite kitchen activity.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7P6p1OTYpyKGKgYpOEGOJ6Eyzlpb2y7Vc588lSJcnedztSUq2_hiKOD0Z4_YkxEV8P4ixgLbsxAHovqzItBBWP8ykzCAHrU2s6i27xjgZZT_Af_UXj7ZbC1LgX1iks9GKVLZad4zrs7Lk/s1600/GOPR0570.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7P6p1OTYpyKGKgYpOEGOJ6Eyzlpb2y7Vc588lSJcnedztSUq2_hiKOD0Z4_YkxEV8P4ixgLbsxAHovqzItBBWP8ykzCAHrU2s6i27xjgZZT_Af_UXj7ZbC1LgX1iks9GKVLZad4zrs7Lk/s640/GOPR0570.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yum.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /><iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/CwcPHoNfzVs/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/CwcPHoNfzVs?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
<br />
After an afternoon break at the hotel, we negotiated various fares with different “bus” drivers to go to <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtyq0jh6FngHVfsu-zWTj6-EfFxLEpemehZfOVnCl0iJHMEIaSvrUkyZJAZLe8pm3iOtSJvEpSzNV4b7pKTIT_Tf1TqDLQWqsw7bVpbylJDC9mN7DwdovR-Du12O1P23aXslYwPRIJmUjz/s1600/20190626_095058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1416" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtyq0jh6FngHVfsu-zWTj6-EfFxLEpemehZfOVnCl0iJHMEIaSvrUkyZJAZLe8pm3iOtSJvEpSzNV4b7pKTIT_Tf1TqDLQWqsw7bVpbylJDC9mN7DwdovR-Du12O1P23aXslYwPRIJmUjz/s320/20190626_095058.jpg" width="283" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Google Maps is the universal language</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, the temple at the top of the nearest mountain. Every city of any size in Asia has a unique dominant transportation system, and in Chiang Mai they were the “Songthaew”, red pick-up trucks with a covered passenger compartment on the back, with no set route or fare. It was low season so we found a parked one and chatted with the driver, but the standard process is to basically shout at the drivers where you want to go and if that’s the direction they’re roughly headed you can hop in the back. We had to change rides at the edge of town for reasons that are not particularly clear, especially since for the way back we had one driver who brought us all the way from the temple back to our hotel... but we all still had to swap vehicles at the same spot (Michael’s guess was that it had something to do with anti-congestion regulations limiting access to the city center based on license plate digits, requiring us to hop in a truck that was allowed into town that day).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCI1EB5tBiwFObDHpEbgmitJY6TedQCHcMfII7jB2hZ76BHQeU8cqZsw7s3Ded16mtsT-ObjddAkvjgy6w22HaGgS1WZrStguCVOFXe7FVEbTx082HnIku8LFxmyfEHdeJcUl1RgPrH-25/s1600/GOPR0577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCI1EB5tBiwFObDHpEbgmitJY6TedQCHcMfII7jB2hZ76BHQeU8cqZsw7s3Ded16mtsT-ObjddAkvjgy6w22HaGgS1WZrStguCVOFXe7FVEbTx082HnIku8LFxmyfEHdeJcUl1RgPrH-25/s640/GOPR0577.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is actually much safer than the modes of transportation that came later.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5JdnzGnt7f7oZzcHOyfzCfZN54x8vKLQJWvMEm5mlbzlvT16jDKj_iGLx5uyxfoe-jpumQB6VjhZedSVf3w0echMTQLlSnn5PLdpvLYyl-K3OrcEO-a79n36fbw7JfHXPrl0cnKM8ZHcv/s1600/GOPR0690.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5JdnzGnt7f7oZzcHOyfzCfZN54x8vKLQJWvMEm5mlbzlvT16jDKj_iGLx5uyxfoe-jpumQB6VjhZedSVf3w0echMTQLlSnn5PLdpvLYyl-K3OrcEO-a79n36fbw7JfHXPrl0cnKM8ZHcv/s320/GOPR0690.JPG" width="240" /></a>At the top of the mountain we hiked up the 300 steps past long undulating naga serpent sculptures to a Buddhist temple that was founded to house one of Buddha’s shoulder bones. The story goes that through some magic, while the relic of was being transported across Thailand to be given to a king, it miraculously split into two bones, each of which regrew into a whole bone. The local king decided to build a temple around one of them, and so tied it to the back of a white elephant and released it into the jungle. The elephant wandered up the hills into the mountains until it found the best spot, circled around it three times, and then laid down and refused to move. Or died, depending on which version of the story you hear. The temple was built on that location, and now pilgrims can circle the Chedi three times to bless their offerings before presenting them to the wide array of Buddha statues and shrines.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYTXpkV3bx0rmlYpD_X7UOKvfPRRKjyc86t2XI724nuV3pwUzD_EQ_fV95mtK0FLnbKfsuPCiY1ynemBVav1RchsQ01VeXducty4kgfPHc8YVxkMy5XdrGSzw4jyxlIVUqEe4uNLt-6Xwo/s1600/20190626_095512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYTXpkV3bx0rmlYpD_X7UOKvfPRRKjyc86t2XI724nuV3pwUzD_EQ_fV95mtK0FLnbKfsuPCiY1ynemBVav1RchsQ01VeXducty4kgfPHc8YVxkMy5XdrGSzw4jyxlIVUqEe4uNLt-6Xwo/s640/20190626_095512.jpg" width="430" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So shiny.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We all made small offerings to a wall of donation slots for different
causes, to a recreation of the Emerald Buddha (another relic with a
similarly suspicious origin story), to write our names on a golden cloth
that would be wrapped around a Buddha statue, and some sort of sticky
sculpture to which you could adhere coin offerings. Finally, our family
was led in a Buddhist mantra by a monk and then blessed with holy water.
The flavors of Buddhist philosophy that have gained a foothold in the
US are largely devoid of the “carnival religion” atmosphere of Hinduism
and Asian Buddhism, and it is hard to convey just how chaotic the
temples feel and how participatory they are, even for lay people like us. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1eFX6oLnBq2-nrpyqRnAVlk22f4Ox0YBYUM4Uxe6APZxCHoKIXKriqz36NKT394zkCmO1jbXG464SOOnGolpZq51x_4d685-vg4B_vEYxdpbMFlztAZQXn3b4khlRuj3vjF73PjJm7tI/s1600/GOPR0669.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1eFX6oLnBq2-nrpyqRnAVlk22f4Ox0YBYUM4Uxe6APZxCHoKIXKriqz36NKT394zkCmO1jbXG464SOOnGolpZq51x_4d685-vg4B_vEYxdpbMFlztAZQXn3b4khlRuj3vjF73PjJm7tI/s640/GOPR0669.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danger monkey wrote the number "3" in Chinese, because she is 3. And it is easy to write.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxyZ9cFLZ-PTPmRhqJz6QOduXSLrmSuOyK3gyHE2eEQgQPmCE6nghaN7A33gaxVRqKgGHnVfwkTDDJgjTj3IqCylT5z8SUILJxHkIR00QaaapHCT4L33tKEd92Ms3qNvlkmgyHv3WQZoMX/s1600/GOPR0671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxyZ9cFLZ-PTPmRhqJz6QOduXSLrmSuOyK3gyHE2eEQgQPmCE6nghaN7A33gaxVRqKgGHnVfwkTDDJgjTj3IqCylT5z8SUILJxHkIR00QaaapHCT4L33tKEd92Ms3qNvlkmgyHv3WQZoMX/s640/GOPR0671.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Persistence</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimbUxFOCNah24_EN21vVAM7P1okzqp3nS2cHRJximVLSLAUQnjfjYR0Pp4xJli_pgz5eDQ1edFE3T9EMbdiE5seofN0WBmGPpSlZhd1GFmEiRiY9UgHn8I2D3kcj8EXLzqWQSsycynaD9N/s1600/20190627_151418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1418" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimbUxFOCNah24_EN21vVAM7P1okzqp3nS2cHRJximVLSLAUQnjfjYR0Pp4xJli_pgz5eDQ1edFE3T9EMbdiE5seofN0WBmGPpSlZhd1GFmEiRiY9UgHn8I2D3kcj8EXLzqWQSsycynaD9N/s640/20190627_151418.jpg" width="566" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Of course it is necessary for every child to ring every bell</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn959CRLdbPyI3QYSvyB8nG2-6KZDTDrIRRZqwibHkaQ2zBKR719VwyMjyv4L8dgdrBBd3FFyZuqyevKsQujIta0Tfjqa-WQJzFusffaqpvfCgCYl3v-SJjjn_XR0qSsIj4gpxdV1_D_uX/s1600/GOPR0687.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn959CRLdbPyI3QYSvyB8nG2-6KZDTDrIRRZqwibHkaQ2zBKR719VwyMjyv4L8dgdrBBd3FFyZuqyevKsQujIta0Tfjqa-WQJzFusffaqpvfCgCYl3v-SJjjn_XR0qSsIj4gpxdV1_D_uX/s640/GOPR0687.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There was nothing on top of the platform, sometimes the pillars are the point.</td></tr>
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We also found a couple of scenic overlooks and figured out where we had been in Chiang Mai from our eagle’s eye vantage point, and made our way back to town after picking up a couple of souvenirs of traditional northern Thai clothing. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQzx_2NZ98peQqlr2pNZ_AXppmdRYjk7bcdyP1cL7PetP0T57eDrZd2PDRX-DBfCYhAHYuPl1dFyXHvQ6JMq4PF8UNE8Rt81604iSKJCj76c_FadxdWX05o676kUDHcHHFoZnvuhur70Ql/s1600/20190627_151310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQzx_2NZ98peQqlr2pNZ_AXppmdRYjk7bcdyP1cL7PetP0T57eDrZd2PDRX-DBfCYhAHYuPl1dFyXHvQ6JMq4PF8UNE8Rt81604iSKJCj76c_FadxdWX05o676kUDHcHHFoZnvuhur70Ql/s640/20190627_151310.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a real-life map!</td></tr>
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The next day we had a lazy morning, and were picked up by a car and driver for a 3.5 hour ride to Chiang Rai.<br />
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Chiang Rai is a market town – it exists almost exclusively as the place where farmers sell food and buy the things they can’t (or don’t care to) make. We explored the town itself the day we arrived and visited the Hill Tribe Museum – two or three rooms on the 3rd floor of a community center with 12-year-old information about the opium trade – and found the statue of the warrior-monk from Chiang Rai that (briefly) unified this part of Thailand. We were in basically the furthest-north settlement of any size in Thailand, so tourist attractions were a little thin on the ground. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtl6uBUFZ5HLT81DzfJb45Ku2yDZgiTtecfDMXiWiGJ-aQNyJIBDE9MahxNStKa0gK6XIpHmsTpgq0pvCALa_oyo1h26W9NlILm0lCqRnagjsQuhDgGcJ3MIRcRdgUTmWJGUYwGrxaR_TQ/s1600/20190626_100139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1100" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtl6uBUFZ5HLT81DzfJb45Ku2yDZgiTtecfDMXiWiGJ-aQNyJIBDE9MahxNStKa0gK6XIpHmsTpgq0pvCALa_oyo1h26W9NlILm0lCqRnagjsQuhDgGcJ3MIRcRdgUTmWJGUYwGrxaR_TQ/s640/20190626_100139.jpg" width="438" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even Wikipedia couldn't tell us why this statue needed *2* whole platters of pigs heads and bottled water</td></tr>
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The next day we checked out of our guest house, leaving them with nearly all of our luggage and a basket of dirty laundry, and set out in the back of a pickup truck for the start of our hill tribe trek – 3 days of hiking through the mountains visiting traditional indigenous villages.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht22aUneTnUhckPHAi9Te34oYfukNhgfPVB625WRp_uDu1WJeCr0qs2ARIRNNR2ipj8f7dzcxV9jvfDQlUuL1VCfudSyN9-nLHg34j-f5Xfs65GGUYh-I0MYP0n4sQEUSKDskXt4mEoH2v/s1600/20190627_151525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht22aUneTnUhckPHAi9Te34oYfukNhgfPVB625WRp_uDu1WJeCr0qs2ARIRNNR2ipj8f7dzcxV9jvfDQlUuL1VCfudSyN9-nLHg34j-f5Xfs65GGUYh-I0MYP0n4sQEUSKDskXt4mEoH2v/s640/20190627_151525.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The most hotly contested swing in Thailand</td></tr>
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Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-74925781835120084992019-06-21T05:18:00.003-07:002019-06-21T05:18:41.174-07:00The Long Way Home: MyanmarOur first destination on the Long Way Home is Yangon, the largest city in Myanmar and the historical capital of the Burmese empire. A British colony from 1824 to 1948 and a war-wracked failed state from 1948 until roughly 2011, Myanmar is now an intensely Buddhist nominally democratic emerging economy just starting to re-engage with the rest of the world. It is the first place we’ve gone where we had to think hard about visiting a place with such a terrible human rights and environmental record, but ultimately we decided that visiting a country to see its people and culture first hand does not constitute support of its government, tacit or otherwise. <br />
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Flying in, Elizabeth saw an incredible number of pagodas from the air, and it seemed like a never-ending parade of temples and pagodas on the taxi ride to the hotel. And so much construction. Like a lot of the places we’ve been visiting, this city will look completely different in 10 years. <br />
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We wound up staying in the civic district – our hotel balcony looked out over city hall and could see the old supreme court building. One of the major religious sites in Yangon, Sule Pagoda, was situated in the traffic roundabout just two blocks away.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG-gu8d6Zmk0H6wNnhFGTxiZcK05NnRox9g6V3vSeTuRVomiOr3IW7dNzaRmwtPb57mdNdDdco04A7ZN0izLNTyxc_hyphenhyphen5QANsEuPkkeXvwpEvH3Lcr-IKFjRAND9RdntcGAEBd5fsct9Vo/s1600/PANO_20190616_105139.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="1600" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG-gu8d6Zmk0H6wNnhFGTxiZcK05NnRox9g6V3vSeTuRVomiOr3IW7dNzaRmwtPb57mdNdDdco04A7ZN0izLNTyxc_hyphenhyphen5QANsEuPkkeXvwpEvH3Lcr-IKFjRAND9RdntcGAEBd5fsct9Vo/s640/PANO_20190616_105139.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The city hall building was designed by a Burmese architect trying to copy British styles... but couldn't help adding a few spikey towers.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW5sDREoZR2X8Q4ROXvGmn3DZ0E-mJsAMn94q7gNrA6-zSjwHMVHRyKjDaZE2EYrn_Ybe_0d79llrhRntiuUQaGd3nGzEXLFkrp50WsMaAeGtSoQgJa-2zM-m_mZpKeVpKEH85tqFm5wuf/s1600/IMG_20190618_112756.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW5sDREoZR2X8Q4ROXvGmn3DZ0E-mJsAMn94q7gNrA6-zSjwHMVHRyKjDaZE2EYrn_Ybe_0d79llrhRntiuUQaGd3nGzEXLFkrp50WsMaAeGtSoQgJa-2zM-m_mZpKeVpKEH85tqFm5wuf/s640/IMG_20190618_112756.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pagoda being the center of town in 300 BC: makes total sense. In 2019: Traffic obstruction.</td></tr>
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Day 1: <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfzqTRyJ3mBZycRchwACqEaKJQ3YTgKOehs8z2PV22ppfsw2-A_VJ9hR8WzfnP5b9TqRXCH0vie3K6p78Tdi4XyJRoliOgAqZ1EAIgSbrBzEynVVl8IVX18gUAwwcRQI4xSrO9a51QiGNg/s1600/IMG_20190616_114349.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfzqTRyJ3mBZycRchwACqEaKJQ3YTgKOehs8z2PV22ppfsw2-A_VJ9hR8WzfnP5b9TqRXCH0vie3K6p78Tdi4XyJRoliOgAqZ1EAIgSbrBzEynVVl8IVX18gUAwwcRQI4xSrO9a51QiGNg/s640/IMG_20190616_114349.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of these Borchert women is thrilled to be here!</td></tr>
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After checking in and getting oriented we went exploring by foot. We walked around and into Sule Pagoda (which is ringed with cellphone and nameplate shops), and got an introduction into Burmese Buddhism - in which prayer stations for the days of the week play an integral role, and each day of the week has a spirit animal and lucky numbers.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMl49gDLZOigp8w-FecfeNGRV3HE3dqyf0wpoGWeaK48o2noT706PQIAbc_x_rWRBw5MlbV5LoOFZBMbkuwr6Hqc2aJ-_m6XSWhcUF4Kqaa917qp7sN88AgSiUkZaNDO_X-o7RJ3BIYPNc/s1600/IMG_20190616_115621.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMl49gDLZOigp8w-FecfeNGRV3HE3dqyf0wpoGWeaK48o2noT706PQIAbc_x_rWRBw5MlbV5LoOFZBMbkuwr6Hqc2aJ-_m6XSWhcUF4Kqaa917qp7sN88AgSiUkZaNDO_X-o7RJ3BIYPNc/s640/IMG_20190616_115621.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It is critical to pour water over the Buddha's head 5 times. Or your age. Or apparently just any old odd number will do if you get too old.</td></tr>
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Afterwards we remembered we were supposed to be relaxing, so we found a playground and the kids played with the locals until the rain got too strong. It’s worth noting that it’s the rainy season in most of the places we’re visiting; constrained as we were by the kids’ school schedules we didn’t have a lot of control over when this trip was. Luckily the rainy season suits us just fine: nearly no crowds and a little warm rain never hurt anyone! We hung out under the trees with some other folks and street dogs and waited for the downpour to stop before leaving the drenched playground equipment to explore the town.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOCSn2M9BxWqg7YCziFO6w_-EdgsZaxbfRk11Q2eqZs9obf1rw74nWDoloyAOJXmvlC6Zcizfr7e9yBiFo88SyZWBxaSBkZF7aiC8x1yZyGkuJiZSDqOipHTJy2XScno5g_quKxlYtGTY9/s1600/IMG_20190618_184333.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOCSn2M9BxWqg7YCziFO6w_-EdgsZaxbfRk11Q2eqZs9obf1rw74nWDoloyAOJXmvlC6Zcizfr7e9yBiFo88SyZWBxaSBkZF7aiC8x1yZyGkuJiZSDqOipHTJy2XScno5g_quKxlYtGTY9/s640/IMG_20190618_184333.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old Supreme Court building, now just a regular court building slowly succumbing to the elements.</td></tr>
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We walked to nearby chinatown, exploring streets and shops. Eventually we made it to 19th street, which is famous as a BBQ and beer street. We had dinner at at amazing bbq joint where we got to choose skewers full of all manner of animal and vegetable bits, which we did with reckless abandon. Amazing stuff, and Michael is pretty sure he ate pig testicles. It started pouring again in earnest, so we moved inside and hung out with the locals.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOV5EyATDcfV3uDwn7VHHuPZbBQmSo_UUyiDgs-TU8c00xbO4GKRQiI8lTMd0-dE3PprZcX9i0CMtQ74tu9mNEhU9hGGySSoUqG2SSAnL7z9zNIPn6iiU0FcNujb-r6DU7MTIj4S46NuOs/s1600/IMG_20190616_185908.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOV5EyATDcfV3uDwn7VHHuPZbBQmSo_UUyiDgs-TU8c00xbO4GKRQiI8lTMd0-dE3PprZcX9i0CMtQ74tu9mNEhU9hGGySSoUqG2SSAnL7z9zNIPn6iiU0FcNujb-r6DU7MTIj4S46NuOs/s640/IMG_20190616_185908.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At this point, the streets had not yet completely flooded.</td></tr>
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Day 2: <br />
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We took a taxi to Kandawgyi Lake, walked around finding shrines built into bodhi trees and strangler figs and mysterious dead-end islands and bridges. Eventually we came around to the main attraction near the lake: the Schwedagon Pagoda, possibly the first Buddhist temple ever built (it was actually built while Siddhartha Gautama was still alive).<br />
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We declined to buy live sparrows to release from the top, hiked up past the religious shops (selling bell, buddhas, and battery-operated plastic toys), and explored the astounding pagoda and gold-plated stupa. We followed a helpful old man around (for a tip, of course) to see the tiny statue of the king that built the first version, the giant reclining buddha, and the replica of the largest bell in Asia that had once rung prayers at this temple... until it was stolen by the Portuguese and sank one of their ships with its weight.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiMMEMt6laY6JaMwJc4as1gSFZAlPet5AnUAwYeq2Y5Rry1z6A6Kh07R0HkRXx7ta-bxCr2qfsQOTcia_2N7hXr-vVxF8hnpKBuv3_BUdvfKBBtmq-nJghPiOt5l1QxoGFa17kivsU2_4k/s1600/IMG_20190617_111617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiMMEMt6laY6JaMwJc4as1gSFZAlPet5AnUAwYeq2Y5Rry1z6A6Kh07R0HkRXx7ta-bxCr2qfsQOTcia_2N7hXr-vVxF8hnpKBuv3_BUdvfKBBtmq-nJghPiOt5l1QxoGFa17kivsU2_4k/s640/IMG_20190617_111617.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Middle Child is carrying on a fine Borchert tradition of being a complete weirdo as soon as a camera is pointed at him.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSX0L9WRx8o1UDxw-a_RJefeV5mJ9V353fru0s9Y6FZenChB6TcQNjWjIGi9bs-95pLMG9EvsJ3tAsVq0nGEocSCn041akPaP_QQNXqzHTBxq64cY6r6UVgstYopcTWoWGDE73Pcsb02V0/s1600/IMG_20190617_144246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSX0L9WRx8o1UDxw-a_RJefeV5mJ9V353fru0s9Y6FZenChB6TcQNjWjIGi9bs-95pLMG9EvsJ3tAsVq0nGEocSCn041akPaP_QQNXqzHTBxq64cY6r6UVgstYopcTWoWGDE73Pcsb02V0/s640/IMG_20190617_144246.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White children draw a crowd.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQy34Z4HbFyo5nQrrmgMkNBE72fqL-JfByW5RN5myDDmPlIjeafRWENB5_i1SdBd-xM-LHP8JtZhk8FVY3qGL2bXMgnaDMG_YHpGYeqSgS2HB-qKwolG5oLmMoaRF9lVe6samVSZEAS8r/s1600/IMG_20190617_145730.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQy34Z4HbFyo5nQrrmgMkNBE72fqL-JfByW5RN5myDDmPlIjeafRWENB5_i1SdBd-xM-LHP8JtZhk8FVY3qGL2bXMgnaDMG_YHpGYeqSgS2HB-qKwolG5oLmMoaRF9lVe6samVSZEAS8r/s640/IMG_20190617_145730.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The courtyard was immense, and filled with intricate shrines and statues.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAHbCD3igXHjk0j-2msZXxxH1OqoFvp8IBj6nJtiQib-mVVqy-BgMD5Hcs_x3TmQ-kcBCX6j3BKheDpXlebrR4Jz3elCemk6LOQ0XineMpcut0aWjfvHx-L2FXAl-PPMFEYcX0PiE6ll1R/s1600/GOPR0502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAHbCD3igXHjk0j-2msZXxxH1OqoFvp8IBj6nJtiQib-mVVqy-BgMD5Hcs_x3TmQ-kcBCX6j3BKheDpXlebrR4Jz3elCemk6LOQ0XineMpcut0aWjfvHx-L2FXAl-PPMFEYcX0PiE6ll1R/s640/GOPR0502.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Actual gold. Hard to see from here: the 76 karat diamond on top.</td></tr>
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Finally, we walked back to the Karaweik Palace, a replica of the royal barge that is now a dinner theater where we were regaled with traditional Burmese songs, dances, and puppetry while we gorged ourselves on a buffet dinner. Elizabeth stuck to the local dishes, and the kids consumed mostly watermelon and french fries. The kids had an amazing time, even though the whole routine started at 6:30 and ran over two hours long. I think we told ourselves “just one more dance” 6 times.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx_F7p7ACBTWEyhFiMTVJDPGBLDPuFDRFeXaMjmQMgjhWCQ5khyBjxS8KV74iTLSoqhWO-a7KX0uWJYRjaqpgXMKlnELapqH-Ybwz5XLgd1TQLAAUuwckflYlYRaEE1MwF6yMzxUVZVtt8/s1600/20190621_071749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="671" data-original-width="1600" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx_F7p7ACBTWEyhFiMTVJDPGBLDPuFDRFeXaMjmQMgjhWCQ5khyBjxS8KV74iTLSoqhWO-a7KX0uWJYRjaqpgXMKlnELapqH-Ybwz5XLgd1TQLAAUuwckflYlYRaEE1MwF6yMzxUVZVtt8/s640/20190621_071749.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The boat from the money and the beer labels!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVZDx0PK3tt3oIsrU4ccB2OxvBhrLcSPbmyqrAAlpSNQLNZCKoSRH4qld_T4TYnsQcd-R4WjLMfUCPzWOAzjiXPnballRBmcGQ8u6lHyHKYTPqkHI8J9dk-RD8Pic8fTvULRx534zafDgW/s1600/IMG_20190617_175531.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVZDx0PK3tt3oIsrU4ccB2OxvBhrLcSPbmyqrAAlpSNQLNZCKoSRH4qld_T4TYnsQcd-R4WjLMfUCPzWOAzjiXPnballRBmcGQ8u6lHyHKYTPqkHI8J9dk-RD8Pic8fTvULRx534zafDgW/s640/IMG_20190617_175531.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A big "Boat". Apparently, "culturally" this is the same boat as the royal barge from 2500 years ago. Even though this one is made of concrete and doesn't float.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWJ-jMQsTDgJdJ9zPDkOhvCeeM_hitLC656aM_G0_ue7pwRsMN-5n2E6e-oOErmW6QIynK5OnAY06u06ZsDHYqMrENaJPF_gmduFpSUMawE4xYJfzBU57RMfE374sRHB20F4BKhke5aDq9/s1600/IMG_20190617_192001.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWJ-jMQsTDgJdJ9zPDkOhvCeeM_hitLC656aM_G0_ue7pwRsMN-5n2E6e-oOErmW6QIynK5OnAY06u06ZsDHYqMrENaJPF_gmduFpSUMawE4xYJfzBU57RMfE374sRHB20F4BKhke5aDq9/s640/IMG_20190617_192001.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basically sounded like a Dead Can Dance song.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9hkAWsTlFlhemUDAybVdJpuSK53JrBn4_My9IO79aUQG8LgxWL1yWN-j30Vue11V6e23dIGPgicb9yHbnv4ewuobKW00lHtirT8KqT_a2tf3zob0PwAbQMU37q1okfv1okpnJUw53ugMo/s1600/IMG_20190617_191051.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9hkAWsTlFlhemUDAybVdJpuSK53JrBn4_My9IO79aUQG8LgxWL1yWN-j30Vue11V6e23dIGPgicb9yHbnv4ewuobKW00lHtirT8KqT_a2tf3zob0PwAbQMU37q1okfv1okpnJUw53ugMo/s640/IMG_20190617_191051.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pantomime elephant? PANTOMIME ELEPHANT!</td></tr>
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Day 3: <br />
<br />
Today we booked a food tour in the morning, to connect all the dots! More-so than Singapore, Myanmar has really integrated the neighboring food cultures, borrowing from Indian, Chinese, and Thai cuisines in each meal, and sometimes in each dish, to achieve something greater than the “original” version. We had breakfast donuts that were shaped like Yu Tiao but as soft and buttery as croissants, samosas wrapped in spring roll wrappers and deep fried, sticky rice fried with cumin, amazing fish noodle soups and coconut stews. Everything was amazing and novel, but nothing was challenging or scary (like, say, everything we ate in Chengdu). Merely delicious. We also put together a lot of puzzle pieces... Burmese people have only given names, and the first syllable of your name is determined by the day of the week you were born (keeping in mind that Wednesday Morning and Wednesday Evening are somehow different days), which made the day-of-the-week stations in all of the temples make a lot more sense! We also learned about the Burmese language (33 consonant-vowel sounds, with 11 “vowel overrides”, and 3 tones that the elders couldn’t hear at all, but made perfect sense to the Mandarin-speakers). <br />
<br />
Stuffed from the food tour, we skipped lunch and had a lazy afternoon in the hotel room, the headed to dinner at “Sharky’s”, a truly great Italian restaurant with a Burmese-native head chef who studied cheese-making in Switzerland before coming back to Junta-era Burma to start curing salamis and figuring out how to make a truly great camembert out of water buffalo milk.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9rto83n9yLxzX5Xoa1F6bKypD8A9YVtIyG30owRvY3znjADf5J_l5HYmWJTutvlSq8E5n7jslwQhlW1_OKIdcjVeotpHKCpW7FhN8I77v6FQKG6PuIMdPEeQBoDn80GlEo24WTfKmyOH8/s1600/IMG_20190618_193218.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9rto83n9yLxzX5Xoa1F6bKypD8A9YVtIyG30owRvY3znjADf5J_l5HYmWJTutvlSq8E5n7jslwQhlW1_OKIdcjVeotpHKCpW7FhN8I77v6FQKG6PuIMdPEeQBoDn80GlEo24WTfKmyOH8/s640/IMG_20190618_193218.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I had almost forgotten what good cheese tastes like.</td></tr>
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<br />
<br />
Day 4: <br />
<br />
The last day we leveraged food-tour-guide contact to find a reliable tri-shaw (like a side-car bicycle) operator on the other side of the river, in the much more rural village of Dala. We took a ferry across the river (luckily doing a reverse commute... the ferries coming from Dala to Yangon in the morning were packed to the gills) and got a really amazing view of the decaying Victorian splendour of the remaining colonial buildings - with their domes and turrets covered in jungle vines and starting to lean, literally across the street from gleaming modern high-rises. On the far side of the river, the shore was littered with fishing boats, some in the water, some pulled up on shore for the rainy season, some which had been pulled up during previous wet months and either collapsed or been turned into buildings.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXrzX8iio9_2gS6AA4Ch404tM0lVWV9nprG6moRNMRgaeqDctL6es18EY1hxco2XuVp0fzR2TLBV5UN3c8oFnVSmMuUEP10UTu72YCVNg952hEvDqPXrkFJAPNRNFvXMNoTc5rxWy6Iiu/s1600/IMG_20190619_083959.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXrzX8iio9_2gS6AA4Ch404tM0lVWV9nprG6moRNMRgaeqDctL6es18EY1hxco2XuVp0fzR2TLBV5UN3c8oFnVSmMuUEP10UTu72YCVNg952hEvDqPXrkFJAPNRNFvXMNoTc5rxWy6Iiu/s640/IMG_20190619_083959.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hard to see: lots of bicycles coming across that bridge.</td></tr>
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Once off the ferry we met our trio of guides who pedaled us around, visiting some of the lesser temples, as well as fishing villages, lotus pond, candle factory (the Yangon municipal area burns roughly 30,000 candles a day, all made by this factory. They’re mostly used by illegal squatters now, as most houses have reliable-enough electricity).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUwiQfIO_2C-OsWtobXRFMqkBaUcktJX4W-hZ0YYOQs-hJFaAKWN7MfgMSMfrRR9iKKQDCswKMalW7aC-CwVZ2fy1ay9ag9oNQBKBx90YB2vwKDfyIl4ntcpCr3ao8jqWEpPeU7yGb1oU3/s1600/20190621_185133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1078" data-original-width="1600" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUwiQfIO_2C-OsWtobXRFMqkBaUcktJX4W-hZ0YYOQs-hJFaAKWN7MfgMSMfrRR9iKKQDCswKMalW7aC-CwVZ2fy1ay9ag9oNQBKBx90YB2vwKDfyIl4ntcpCr3ao8jqWEpPeU7yGb1oU3/s640/20190621_185133.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Dala suburbs.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_EbDAIT-C84uGogSWud76gJxLEvv_l6pLV4GIY9FQYleYAbafNuq-hv7ythP1qq-QZZWhnKqmJZ-P62rJrL9_axceZLXcZqJV5eqQOiFtDxBWDYpRP-tApfizEehBJ2yurFi9yH5P8bd7/s1600/20190621_072252.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1282" data-original-width="1600" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_EbDAIT-C84uGogSWud76gJxLEvv_l6pLV4GIY9FQYleYAbafNuq-hv7ythP1qq-QZZWhnKqmJZ-P62rJrL9_axceZLXcZqJV5eqQOiFtDxBWDYpRP-tApfizEehBJ2yurFi9yH5P8bd7/s640/20190621_072252.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lotus pond is _actually_ the water reservoir.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL_31M13EkmNbHuzxpXMZ1PWgJodir5oTEjY_3b8UAuZ1hMEw_k1M59RJqFZ1iDYvTP1OGrDUZksHb292Ca2tqvRcAPKolhweXip67xesoGvB6z1MsYQUDacMvboWZhb1GXxBIP9cfhgff/s1600/20190621_072607.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1600" height="614" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL_31M13EkmNbHuzxpXMZ1PWgJodir5oTEjY_3b8UAuZ1hMEw_k1M59RJqFZ1iDYvTP1OGrDUZksHb292Ca2tqvRcAPKolhweXip67xesoGvB6z1MsYQUDacMvboWZhb1GXxBIP9cfhgff/s640/20190621_072607.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Candlemaking is pretty low-tech, even with the water-cooled candle molds.</td></tr>
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<br />
We also visited the local morning market. From Michael: <br />
<br />
“A few months after we’d been living in Singapore I remember walking through downtown and thinking, ‘did we move far enough from Minnesota?’ Singapore was so cosmopolitan and western that it felt like we’d just moved to downtown San Francisco. Crossing the wooden plank bridge into the morning market in Dala, with the steady rain coming down on the sections of plastic sheeting intermittently stretched between the stalls, passing the guy rolling the chewing slugs from betel nut and broken-open cigarettes, the cages of straggly free-range chickens, the piles of fresh-gutted river fish next to the piles of fish guts for sale, I finally felt like I was far enough from home.” <br />
<br />
All of our guides thought it was cute that we only had 3 kids. Michael lucked out and got the tour guide that spoke the most English and who had also studied as a Buddhist monk for 5 years, so got to chat about life in the village, religion in Myanmar, and a little about politics. When asked about whether things were better now that they had returned to democratic rule (Wikipedia says 8 years ago, MaughMaugh the tri-shaw guide says 5 years), the answer was: <br />
<br />
“It is like a river. Some days lots of waves, some days not so much.” <br />
<br />
Our last stop in Dala was at a small souvenir shop that made handicrafts and household goods from non-decomposable waste collected in and near the village. Lots of handbags made from tire rubber and detailed paperwork made from newspapers and instant coffee packets. We chatted with the American woman who had started the NGO that funded the shop for the first few years, but it was now self-sufficient and employed 12 people full-time. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwlF1R_vx6dCmYAtwopA8v1Ip5dDjoCxBkaxz4I5KYsCTezPj-J5hTAbalnpdBsBq1yZem7zrleskD3f9SSqCgym7zf0P1NUhNKcd9N9wxlAuIRp96tPNEj7j6PvO-CCDDSki_Qi8KSZOS/s1600/IMG_20190619_105323.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwlF1R_vx6dCmYAtwopA8v1Ip5dDjoCxBkaxz4I5KYsCTezPj-J5hTAbalnpdBsBq1yZem7zrleskD3f9SSqCgym7zf0P1NUhNKcd9N9wxlAuIRp96tPNEj7j6PvO-CCDDSki_Qi8KSZOS/s640/IMG_20190619_105323.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raw materials!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After the ferry back and a family nap, we went to explore some of the other markets in Yangon. The Bogyoke Aung San Market, the “original” textiles/jewelry/home goods/wacky crap market. Michael finally found his Buddha-Calls-The-Earth-To-Witness statue, Eldest got a full Longyi (traditional/contemporary Burmese outfit), Elizabeth got some prayer bells and her own outfit, and Middle Child got a decorated horse marionette. Danger Monkey insists that we owe her a dress and a skirt. We’ll see what we can do in our next stop: Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai in northern Thailand!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEmV3sTFjkPxCEa5ZZbMXW3f0CcvDh0gRPPikAH-wQecbuAxx4pF6HoFt4huE1L2YDURUow0NHkjd7jkawyjSnC9ZNm-fsqzGFAJrY0594vZVZYm4m3u-1CnO31O_jsGEqsltibcK_cce9/s1600/IMG_20190619_190852.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEmV3sTFjkPxCEa5ZZbMXW3f0CcvDh0gRPPikAH-wQecbuAxx4pF6HoFt4huE1L2YDURUow0NHkjd7jkawyjSnC9ZNm-fsqzGFAJrY0594vZVZYm4m3u-1CnO31O_jsGEqsltibcK_cce9/s640/IMG_20190619_190852.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-13389512819921558292019-06-18T23:40:00.002-07:002019-06-18T23:40:40.720-07:00Farewell, Singapore!"Bye Sin-a-pore! We going some-wheah else!" Is how Danger Monkey bid
farewell to the Singapore skyline as we passed the Marina Bay Sands, the
Singapore Flyer, and the supertrees on our final evening.<br />
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Our last week in Singapore was a flurry of celebrations, packing, and farewells.</div>
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We celebrated Michael's birthday and new job, as well as the big kids' school year accomplishments.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYlLehknN4pcUHmx1NbJS4r2TvOP2ZbHWkqpPfkN18_O_F7QVy2knqOnzN45lJdC4_WXCXRcpbBowMl8n4QsLJSNkDSYJhpcqidLnlakzmc6O6FcXFHkDuxEkAqgK8gMCwO5xOfCbFUJ-L/s1600/IMG_20190614_013240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYlLehknN4pcUHmx1NbJS4r2TvOP2ZbHWkqpPfkN18_O_F7QVy2knqOnzN45lJdC4_WXCXRcpbBowMl8n4QsLJSNkDSYJhpcqidLnlakzmc6O6FcXFHkDuxEkAqgK8gMCwO5xOfCbFUJ-L/s640/IMG_20190614_013240.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nothing says "We'll miss you!" like 3 AM karaoke</td></tr>
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The
packers arrived to box our stuff and ship it stateside, and over four
days they transformed our home into a bare, efficient, and clean
apartment that somehow seems impossibly small for five people. How an
apartment can seem smaller when empty than before 3/4 of a shipping
container's worth of stuff has been removed remains a mystery.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC1uVA7Byy5xsr-7LkwZPU9nYLfTQM3oMSxCzcEB3shUPKsxhKIjCwAGg1oAvT3Vgc1Tl2f92oU4xgUC4SkoaA5PBmsB6VnXOIio0rojgEyBCNpTPJI-yvRLU_gnn8qoIVZ-2vdhXdrkiz/s1600/20190616_155504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1122" data-original-width="1600" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC1uVA7Byy5xsr-7LkwZPU9nYLfTQM3oMSxCzcEB3shUPKsxhKIjCwAGg1oAvT3Vgc1Tl2f92oU4xgUC4SkoaA5PBmsB6VnXOIio0rojgEyBCNpTPJI-yvRLU_gnn8qoIVZ-2vdhXdrkiz/s640/20190616_155504.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Your authority is not recognized in fort Kick-Ass.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVVoWVnzcjP4cNkZkeaxEFI6h5fnIUsNrKYnkSqDHIdRDyMGGHxuk53GqdJ4ufklhXe3ot7iTTBsEF1fkFUMgxFDbFLnkZRsJPmapnsRliT3KwZ3-g3xIxDT97VJCVOpuKnk38MoMraUz_/s1600/20190616_155640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1444" data-original-width="1600" height="576" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVVoWVnzcjP4cNkZkeaxEFI6h5fnIUsNrKYnkSqDHIdRDyMGGHxuk53GqdJ4ufklhXe3ot7iTTBsEF1fkFUMgxFDbFLnkZRsJPmapnsRliT3KwZ3-g3xIxDT97VJCVOpuKnk38MoMraUz_/s640/20190616_155640.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goodbye Everything! See you in Minneapolis!</td></tr>
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With
outings, BBQs, lunches, and parties we bid farewell to neighbors,
classmates, teachers, and coworkers...our new friends. We will stay in
touch, and hopefully see each other again someday. If any of you are
reading this, come visit us in Minnesota! We'll show you the sculpture
garden and the lakes; we'll feed you amazing tacos, pizza, ice cream,
and farm-to-table fusion; and if you time it right we'll take you to the
state fair, renaissance festival, or some great theatre. (Hint: May
through September are lovely)</div>
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<br /></div>
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There are a lot of things we'll miss about living in Singapore:</div>
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The incredible multiculturalism</div>
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The efficient public transportation</div>
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The delicious food in infinite varieties</div>
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The warm evenings</div>
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The delightful parks, playgrounds, and wild areas</div>
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The joyful festivals</div>
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The proximity to the rest of Asia</div>
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<br /></div>
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...and most of all, the wonderful people who became our friends.</div>
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Goodbye Singapore. We're going somewhere else. But you will be a part of us always.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuRd2z73t_PYIsZaSL5BxLzCJou9rCjtXxPljOOTE47s0dyyWuopgEPgmijqq9mUKlF-CWcsiuL-np244aDIH9dKFkvxVdQRSA8sGhiArEnraT8PS21aIAWXjtiPaR-m_RHNYfeNZ_wB8G/s1600/20190616_155110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1375" data-original-width="1600" height="550" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuRd2z73t_PYIsZaSL5BxLzCJou9rCjtXxPljOOTE47s0dyyWuopgEPgmijqq9mUKlF-CWcsiuL-np244aDIH9dKFkvxVdQRSA8sGhiArEnraT8PS21aIAWXjtiPaR-m_RHNYfeNZ_wB8G/s640/20190616_155110.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I can see our stuff from here!</td></tr>
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<br />
Now begins the Long Way Home... approximately 5 weeks of rattling around Southeast Asia while all of our worldly possessions cross the pacific ocean. We had originally conceived of a trip where we hit all of the highest-priority locations that we hadn't made it to, but then we did the math on the travel time from New Zealand to the Maldives and pursued a different strategy: Let's visit all of the out-of-the-way places that are probably not going to draw us across the Pacific for their own trip from Minnesota. The rough itinerary wound up being Myanmar->Northern Thailand -> Laos -> Bali -> Malaysian Borneo -> Okinawa -> Home, mixing in a few resorts, a few hikes up to stay with indigenous mountain tribes, a world music festival, and our first time trying to drive in Asia. </div>
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Expect some more frequent updates as we update from the road!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGY0Dp39UbzvsrDcmpes47F9j5NL2shjWeClEhCRE0k7UD-YQwVmcjR3eCayOSReaFMl6LWBdXLnxRdTkl3NQmUY8uIWX-fPkYVLKnW6RmWTzq2uJp8nt8EuTN6VCy1yPo_UkNt9ndo-dX/s1600/IMG_20190616_062425.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGY0Dp39UbzvsrDcmpes47F9j5NL2shjWeClEhCRE0k7UD-YQwVmcjR3eCayOSReaFMl6LWBdXLnxRdTkl3NQmUY8uIWX-fPkYVLKnW6RmWTzq2uJp8nt8EuTN6VCy1yPo_UkNt9ndo-dX/s640/IMG_20190616_062425.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sending birthday greetings to Uncle Brendon</td></tr>
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Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-4828327765382550652019-05-13T07:26:00.003-07:002019-05-13T07:26:44.165-07:00Hiking The Nakasendo TrailThe kids had a full week off school for spring break, so we decided to spend some time in... (drumroll, please)... Japan!<br />
<br />
Despite Japan shaping our concept of what "Asia" was like during our formative years (Godzilla and samurai movies, anime, sushi, Picky, Iron Chef, etc.), we'd only yet passed through Japan on our way to and from the USA. We were a bit nervous about visiting, since we knew that 1) English speakers and signs were going to be less prevalent, 2) places were going to be cramped and hectic even by Southeast Asian standards, and 3) costs for everything were going to be higher than during our usual jaunts to developing nations. So, of course, we found an itinerary that basically dialed all of these concerns up to eleven, and dove in head first.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXoMyHMuVH5j5VRkcGkh5WKatPuDSg7fHtsS0AehcymEfFxSr_nWKiyykQRm-ZK_vpiXcb2cLy0jcReQp8PD0vRN6Usavxnx5Ibg3MiN_9PFVAGez27eqriDA55H3iPaz1nGEAh7nPBxfH/s1600/IMG_20190413_152709.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXoMyHMuVH5j5VRkcGkh5WKatPuDSg7fHtsS0AehcymEfFxSr_nWKiyykQRm-ZK_vpiXcb2cLy0jcReQp8PD0vRN6Usavxnx5Ibg3MiN_9PFVAGez27eqriDA55H3iPaz1nGEAh7nPBxfH/s320/IMG_20190413_152709.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Also: maps.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
[But first, this is a Borchert blog, so we're going to set the stage. Scroll down for the pictures]<br />
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In 1603 the first Shogun to unify Japan, Tokugawa Ieyasu, moved the imperial capital from Kyoto in the southwest to Edo, which was renamed as "Tokyo". He required that all court officials maintain residences in both cities, and spend alternate years in each (largely as a means of keeping them away from their political strongholds and reducing their strength... not dissimilar to the court at Versailles). As a result, two imperial roads were established along existing highways: the Tokaido which went south along the coast before cutting inland, and the Nakasendo that went southwest over the Japanese alps. As more and more court officials used the road, post towns developed which attracted more travelers. At its height there were 69 towns full of ryokan (inns) and onsens (hot spring baths).<br />
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In the early 20th century much of the original Nakasendo trail was converted to rail lines and highways as trains and automobiles became more prevalent during Japan's aggressive campaign of modernization. Many of the post towns chose to embrace modern industries and replaced the ancient inns with modern shops and apartment blocks. In the 1960's the government of Japan began to restore some of the remaining sections of the Nakasendo trail, improving the trail itself but also providing support to the remaining authentic post towns and to the family-run inns, some of which have been in continuous operation since the 1600's. Some of these towns now have strict building codes restricting building materials and methods to what would have been used in the 17th and 18th century, preserving the historic and cultural legacy of the Edo period of Japan.<br />
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Because Japan's high-speed rail system is amazing, tourists interested in hiking the "nice" parts of the Nakasendo can start their tour in either Tokyo or Kyoto, since from either city it's a relatively short ride on the Shinkansen bullet train to the first trailhead. We decided to honor the spirit of our "wandering samurai vacation" and do an open-jaw trip in which we flew into Kyoto (more accurately Osaka, and then took a bus to Kyoto), hike the trail towards Tokyo, and then fly straight from Tokyo back home to Singapore.<br />
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To start, we had a full day of exploring the ancient capital of Kyoto. Our guest house was nestled between palaces and temples, with our room being in the attic of a small house. It was the first of many nights sleeping on futon bedrolls on tatami floors, and somehow no children managed to fall off the steep ladder that led up to our room.<br />
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The first morning we enjoyed an elaborate breakfast with a delightfully absurd array of little bites and morsels, about half of which we could identify. This set the stage for the food on the rest of the trip, which was both amazing and inscrutable. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKqKY0HGL2bkGXjhHiMd8TdApkdtl0o-ZwGA2Yz7tBy8TYKVzq_WdKiHYrxwfyBpU2slVYZEjBsg9YBfOn4vctsqYrscoqBkmY_IkSjA7eQLNnQh7DkGhSyv8pg-REoAxnBXg9whem41lG/s1600/IMG_20190414_082051.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKqKY0HGL2bkGXjhHiMd8TdApkdtl0o-ZwGA2Yz7tBy8TYKVzq_WdKiHYrxwfyBpU2slVYZEjBsg9YBfOn4vctsqYrscoqBkmY_IkSjA7eQLNnQh7DkGhSyv8pg-REoAxnBXg9whem41lG/s640/IMG_20190414_082051.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We could fully identify about 25% of breakfast</td></tr>
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We then ventured out out to explore the nearby Higashi Hongan-ji temple (essentially the Vatican for one of the two dominant sub-sects of Buddhism), the Shosei-en gardens (a traditional garden with tea-houses used by shoguns, emperors, and the abbott of the Higashi Hongan-ji temple), and - a surprise hit - the locomotive museum. It was the tail end of the cherry-blossom season in Kyoto, but the weather was still briskly chilly in the mornings and the trees were still mostly covered in white and pink flowers.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMMGDgSGhrW0W1ANGW4Ps-I4ec6Na5WZVCMFLCRLwCqBs5b7Ob2td47C6LGUuBnnFUgHuALN1fj4x5PKc0q2M7L2UW5fQPZvmjnZElZSKJqqOtRgpusNivQTlhJEARWXrpvuV-sea2mBvc/s1600/IMG_20190414_091021.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMMGDgSGhrW0W1ANGW4Ps-I4ec6Na5WZVCMFLCRLwCqBs5b7Ob2td47C6LGUuBnnFUgHuALN1fj4x5PKc0q2M7L2UW5fQPZvmjnZElZSKJqqOtRgpusNivQTlhJEARWXrpvuV-sea2mBvc/s640/IMG_20190414_091021.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kids playing tag in front of the largest all-wooden building in the world</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apparently this is "past the peak" of spring.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjas_ZKc2RxvJdmHX7YappReb-Y_QLoIo3A5NukWzgl0JRhgzEFZLTNiXcpCGr-uh3q3Y0Bi6GGL0DBqhHXhcY2AKvzQ2jkMwhp8QWXb0JBdFHkoOEGV2nj0UB8mVid0C2n7z5JT893t_aH/s1600/20190414_114558.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjas_ZKc2RxvJdmHX7YappReb-Y_QLoIo3A5NukWzgl0JRhgzEFZLTNiXcpCGr-uh3q3Y0Bi6GGL0DBqhHXhcY2AKvzQ2jkMwhp8QWXb0JBdFHkoOEGV2nj0UB8mVid0C2n7z5JT893t_aH/s640/20190414_114558.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This locomotive was just for show, but we did get to ride a steam train.</td></tr>
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So we could travel lightly while hiking 10-15 km each day, we used
the phenomenal "Takkyubin" service to send half our stuff to meet us in
two days. We kept one backpack with two days worth of clothes, plus the
requisite stuffed animals, toiletries, and a first-aid kit. When we
caught up with it we could swap dirty laundry for clean clothes and then
send the big bag forward again.<br />
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Once we had sent our
big bag on into the unknown we took a bus across town and visited the
Kiyomizu Dera temple complex, a 1200-year-old UNESCO world heritage site
bustling with tourists in rented kimonos taking selfies. There we also
had a course of Japanese street food, including yakitori (meat on a
stick), takoyaki (octopus dumplings), and sprite-flavored ice cream.
After escaping the rain into a tea+coffee shop (it was actually a single
drink, made with both tea and coffee. Not unpleasant, but don't need
to do that again) we took a bus to a ramen shop that specialized in
gluten-free noodles so that Elizabeth and Eldest Monkey could experience
the real deal.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUpHuL3GlFgAvqAFCgOBFpRXJMZN1lpQFOF08zmqQSbdPQ3poFIe4VVoCA9qVI1s3YyAmClFr4zJF1pwZH5ySS0LuUW5UUQ4Vg-s8UVKSBRvuONfoovT5sfnAj6JW4SjTlabbYSPQkVdS/s1600/IMG_20190414_161955.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUpHuL3GlFgAvqAFCgOBFpRXJMZN1lpQFOF08zmqQSbdPQ3poFIe4VVoCA9qVI1s3YyAmClFr4zJF1pwZH5ySS0LuUW5UUQ4Vg-s8UVKSBRvuONfoovT5sfnAj6JW4SjTlabbYSPQkVdS/s640/IMG_20190414_161955.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A little rain wasn't enough to dampen our spirits</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB0N-I4OmoylWsVQGwgrUwcyH9xQc3VhurYVtwZd4dYIwxtsYoha6yS2wQCkuPQm3zXE2_H0DOa3romVE2YpwU5RKSEIM7HG-4Pa4O7CRhTXZrFLmbJP5fFmnBfKzrXMVKdwaxCEki9cm9/s1600/20190414_173943.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB0N-I4OmoylWsVQGwgrUwcyH9xQc3VhurYVtwZd4dYIwxtsYoha6yS2wQCkuPQm3zXE2_H0DOa3romVE2YpwU5RKSEIM7HG-4Pa4O7CRhTXZrFLmbJP5fFmnBfKzrXMVKdwaxCEki9cm9/s640/20190414_173943.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Korean tourists taking a selfie with our prop children</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtan6_7ksLCHauhcMpd8NxTQoCe1LP6PSmOzvst-bAe18L_FVjL3tC4707Hv_6RcCujnZWVIu3RzXktOBXb4XfyPzYpfedB7PIJqzSYiJ_yuRWim_ih_VzLhrAZGrsZhFIRCYDuSZC0M7u/s1600/20190414_191319.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtan6_7ksLCHauhcMpd8NxTQoCe1LP6PSmOzvst-bAe18L_FVjL3tC4707Hv_6RcCujnZWVIu3RzXktOBXb4XfyPzYpfedB7PIJqzSYiJ_yuRWim_ih_VzLhrAZGrsZhFIRCYDuSZC0M7u/s640/20190414_191319.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michael is pondering how our kids got so weird.</td></tr>
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The next day, it was time to get on the trail!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU3l4tP_6TupSr7AjYdQOj12F4GgBC2q3hpWb_r8gGZDVE3ESNEUlGs5eVMSXNSJAerKlb-EaNPN7XN2PeOEVmJglJL_HTpHHx_aN-dukcmYVWSdlEW9H9diB0XRl5HAw_izZ1NLC7RHYN/s1600/GOPR0060.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU3l4tP_6TupSr7AjYdQOj12F4GgBC2q3hpWb_r8gGZDVE3ESNEUlGs5eVMSXNSJAerKlb-EaNPN7XN2PeOEVmJglJL_HTpHHx_aN-dukcmYVWSdlEW9H9diB0XRl5HAw_izZ1NLC7RHYN/s640/GOPR0060.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A beautiful day for a stroll through medieval Japan! Complete with an umbrella we bought at FamilyMart.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnWflHfLvheuhAq8hyphenhyphendpwu7vF9HQMkJF0cWrkuGSpo3loz1rnmgwJhrYmv7zzBvK2X7D8ft4LFm9VbSzGxnpzkrQgQKW-cdflDei9DvHIan2DPSORtFYRta4fYjG7uC7TwdoGe6jX_zTgu/s1600/20190418_205613.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnWflHfLvheuhAq8hyphenhyphendpwu7vF9HQMkJF0cWrkuGSpo3loz1rnmgwJhrYmv7zzBvK2X7D8ft4LFm9VbSzGxnpzkrQgQKW-cdflDei9DvHIan2DPSORtFYRta4fYjG7uC7TwdoGe6jX_zTgu/s320/20190418_205613.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
We hiked down to the train station and rode to the first leg. For the next 5 days we mostly hiked from one train station to another, and then took a train or bus to an inn or a hotel where we changed into traditional robes (yukata) and slippers, took a _very_ hot bath, had a sumptuous multi-course dinner, and slept on bedrolls on tatami floors. We woke up to a sumptuous breakfast, and then made our way back to the trail.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJfw3jrP4OTZPqd3Q-6IgeazV8sCBCbGuYDAiMGr1gQhjTy_TCxyZQfNAdWHNKlAey2ZsPWn55ZwhyphenhyphenP5oojd14Cg7KlQjwXHkmsp12bNNK8WHG04pQJRspMw5z2W1N1SWUDL1TSVre3q6/s1600/IMG_20190418_083828.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJfw3jrP4OTZPqd3Q-6IgeazV8sCBCbGuYDAiMGr1gQhjTy_TCxyZQfNAdWHNKlAey2ZsPWn55ZwhyphenhyphenP5oojd14Cg7KlQjwXHkmsp12bNNK8WHG04pQJRspMw5z2W1N1SWUDL1TSVre3q6/s320/IMG_20190418_083828.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ryokan breakfast. Dinner was even more elaborate.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
The first onsen we stayed in was an enormous industrial affair - more like a Midwestern casino complex - full of senior citizens abusing the crab at the buffet. This location also _strongly_ forbade the use of public bathing facilities by anyone with tattoos, so Michael had to sit this one out. The rest of the onsens were smaller places with only a few other guests with no such tatoo restrictions, probably because they were more aimed at foreign tourists than locals.<br />
<br />
The later inns were very cozy, and the model of what you expect from traditional Japanese hospitality and lodging: impeccable service, wood and paper walls, and lots of green tea.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDaqfOeIr5VXiVc9N0IlcWEsZRQA5jhwMMY33220YyoKfaD_cJp40ufZqPq8QYVOsn5AWQbgiVZzZ34KHUjXzT9DMBIv79NmWtgWB9VOpiQiNYmCNme_p3Kyca5j4FpObmYenT213SIrXv/s1600/IMG_20190418_211122.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDaqfOeIr5VXiVc9N0IlcWEsZRQA5jhwMMY33220YyoKfaD_cJp40ufZqPq8QYVOsn5AWQbgiVZzZ34KHUjXzT9DMBIv79NmWtgWB9VOpiQiNYmCNme_p3Kyca5j4FpObmYenT213SIrXv/s640/IMG_20190418_211122.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miyazaki movie night</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The trail itself varied between paving stones, soft mulch, rocky scrambles, paved trails through towns or following old railway beds, and dirt track along the side of country roads. We hiked through forests of bamboo, cyprus, and cedar and through fields and farms and flower gardens. We hiked beside rushing rivers littered with great white boulders, through medieval post towns filled with inns, noodle shops, and trinket sellers, and over mountain passes where patches of snow lingered in the shadows of ancient temples. Spring comes a little later in the mountains, and so were able to see valleys of cherry trees in peak bloom with gentle winds carrying a rain of white flower petals; as we got up to the higher passes we found budding forests that were poised to explode in color. All of this was framed against the dramatic backdrop of snow-capped mountains in the distance. It was aggressively beautiful.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjee56OO87BEfhngs2EjpjAWI3bmzRdumUWeNKt0ZzFraI2kW7eaQ5fcYICoFbkK_Cv6_V2IB5-BOhmpXxGBHdhIkvmKni_CZkl4i0wM7IRJ2g8BDUcm5qYhJiYeAWCXjdvE2uYpcSwl98f/s1600/GOPR0118.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjee56OO87BEfhngs2EjpjAWI3bmzRdumUWeNKt0ZzFraI2kW7eaQ5fcYICoFbkK_Cv6_V2IB5-BOhmpXxGBHdhIkvmKni_CZkl4i0wM7IRJ2g8BDUcm5qYhJiYeAWCXjdvE2uYpcSwl98f/s640/GOPR0118.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A representative section of trail.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPUlANg0gpDkv73XOv50CA9_Qw3Wg6cSQXwVVGxUjQe8f_Smmu1cf03YDtimQYgzXRI5uOk1qkkAVfh6GojcTh7IHMovZE2ptTlFpd1Ivs_KXiqvF8xKooD_XvgzFfNuN8nOc4k4JL2Or/s1600/GOPR0181.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPUlANg0gpDkv73XOv50CA9_Qw3Wg6cSQXwVVGxUjQe8f_Smmu1cf03YDtimQYgzXRI5uOk1qkkAVfh6GojcTh7IHMovZE2ptTlFpd1Ivs_KXiqvF8xKooD_XvgzFfNuN8nOc4k4JL2Or/s640/GOPR0181.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danger Monkey a.k.a. Asian Baby was confused by snow.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKST5NXvt5FOIdgk-fCETvqHUsRr6c31MZPFLPpKVtJ6fZWySrdfFdh7Dsq9uGYuOYxE9cz38iSno71as2u5jo_7K-M8jLTnhjU5CeYFlSZD4sddbxgIhFTYJJ7oa337oR3K0BbogdnPBg/s1600/IMG_20190415_163857.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKST5NXvt5FOIdgk-fCETvqHUsRr6c31MZPFLPpKVtJ6fZWySrdfFdh7Dsq9uGYuOYxE9cz38iSno71as2u5jo_7K-M8jLTnhjU5CeYFlSZD4sddbxgIhFTYJJ7oa337oR3K0BbogdnPBg/s640/IMG_20190415_163857.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Next step: climb over those mountains!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFolTO1Cv9LxuyOfMRbAYPKmDqcYOWg2UuSdiHZCNso-pO3_cbsammZZEXimvAJytm-QAuL8ZeuxcH7H_r-c8FzNEY-hoENyRFbcMESIEfSS5f_gDPB8SJ6RqEiBqengHa-HAVhKMqEZn9/s1600/IMG_20190419_101120.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFolTO1Cv9LxuyOfMRbAYPKmDqcYOWg2UuSdiHZCNso-pO3_cbsammZZEXimvAJytm-QAuL8ZeuxcH7H_r-c8FzNEY-hoENyRFbcMESIEfSS5f_gDPB8SJ6RqEiBqengHa-HAVhKMqEZn9/s640/IMG_20190419_101120.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cedar forest.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxuJIj59RltE9MvO-3oj3cEVBGSck4w-KskYPZvqth6vcCc3HpiwGAaZECpsPYDyIuYye3kOkT4H5PpDa-GPVwS7yuXuiUEiN8cPlNuy0mJzSTfD0OnV71jRgvHYHJDlWyciOeKs3ttu-y/s1600/IMG_20190419_090459.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxuJIj59RltE9MvO-3oj3cEVBGSck4w-KskYPZvqth6vcCc3HpiwGAaZECpsPYDyIuYye3kOkT4H5PpDa-GPVwS7yuXuiUEiN8cPlNuy0mJzSTfD0OnV71jRgvHYHJDlWyciOeKs3ttu-y/s640/IMG_20190419_090459.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yup.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
It was also a unique experience in terms of simply walking to get somewhere further away than you could get in a a single day. Getting into the rhythm of hiking up to a pass and then down the valley on the other side to a river confluence where we would start hiking up _another_ valley to _another_ pass, and knowing that was all that were were doing for days on end, gave us a new perspective on what travel would have been like in a world without trains, automobiles, or even easy access to horses. Having served as the major highway between the two most important cities of medieval Japan, the entire trail was steeped in history. We passed by temples that had been constructed to commemorate military victories, mass graves of samurai warriors, abandoned tea houses, and a small sign commemorating when the Meiji emperor had passed by that spot as he toured the Nakasendo.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv87RYpCz2Sh9mOzLHN0plz1sBltAmF0xDaHi2UwoLFcYfDhlJHcOXApEGaPI4Xem7_LRKRML_R20ebImPynTGnamgFRQdRRCAuKllbJt-VrOI6iBSe06gxXVP7OwFuIFC2kj3IenD6nqj/s1600/GOPR0190.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv87RYpCz2Sh9mOzLHN0plz1sBltAmF0xDaHi2UwoLFcYfDhlJHcOXApEGaPI4Xem7_LRKRML_R20ebImPynTGnamgFRQdRRCAuKllbJt-VrOI6iBSe06gxXVP7OwFuIFC2kj3IenD6nqj/s640/GOPR0190.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shinto gates and shrines were everywhere</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiST_okjL1H6T5_I7g1taR2b_Nue44P28CYHKRc3eGes0GIsySVVyHurUHwb320MLECnbBYY5jBQHrgBaRz8rzDepB3W2xXhwb6OEui1KHrUnnyKEeBa1XZh3wXPLMvLUapx7c0_9KKQXw-/s1600/GOPR0092.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiST_okjL1H6T5_I7g1taR2b_Nue44P28CYHKRc3eGes0GIsySVVyHurUHwb320MLECnbBYY5jBQHrgBaRz8rzDepB3W2xXhwb6OEui1KHrUnnyKEeBa1XZh3wXPLMvLUapx7c0_9KKQXw-/s640/GOPR0092.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old carved marker. Still on the right trail!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgGPnS_TnGCXJ__mOmSqYuXUTSoFgOn56WMCieGV76yGmrDulBYAGGFq-vrqsLPnzYyUSTf46mp-YoOyyj5CqIFgP2Gy7HqJ1TnT-eofXIKus2d4FOnZkjVl3BBF2VkVA38s8HrR4XcK7T/s1600/20190417_114140.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgGPnS_TnGCXJ__mOmSqYuXUTSoFgOn56WMCieGV76yGmrDulBYAGGFq-vrqsLPnzYyUSTf46mp-YoOyyj5CqIFgP2Gy7HqJ1TnT-eofXIKus2d4FOnZkjVl3BBF2VkVA38s8HrR4XcK7T/s640/20190417_114140.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We saw no bears. Probably because all three kids rang every bell.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX4AUFAE0EHyEyC-QNzfKCwtEpA6QO_5TGV451ptFZ5ynbDv-Gbx3ryJc4x1CHv-ENI-q_t5X_FBMXuYoiMvD0yui1My2GGo7ZvHeqLjUqMtwGJQq4-4AEHTLcZc9F30eoBBJMR0_9adf3/s1600/IMG_20190418_103726.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX4AUFAE0EHyEyC-QNzfKCwtEpA6QO_5TGV451ptFZ5ynbDv-Gbx3ryJc4x1CHv-ENI-q_t5X_FBMXuYoiMvD0yui1My2GGo7ZvHeqLjUqMtwGJQq4-4AEHTLcZc9F30eoBBJMR0_9adf3/s640/IMG_20190418_103726.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Communing with the cherry blossoms</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrIyYbx6rwU1Wi_ERZZ-O-egPDw86XLkkdlv57to_olle2caTK1uH1x4ecdmJtFBv_Rrp14IKEIVN-6EU8aIHxxTT2GfuAHLpROFNRScHU36k_XCEmZ9IRgaxXFW1QjkOCifv9NdQ7f1is/s1600/IMG_20190418_120016.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrIyYbx6rwU1Wi_ERZZ-O-egPDw86XLkkdlv57to_olle2caTK1uH1x4ecdmJtFBv_Rrp14IKEIVN-6EU8aIHxxTT2GfuAHLpROFNRScHU36k_XCEmZ9IRgaxXFW1QjkOCifv9NdQ7f1is/s640/IMG_20190418_120016.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matsumoto Castle is one of the 4 remaining original medieval castles. It is also SO PRETTY.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOBTM56xqbQhXz6i590bIiXS9dOT50bd3B2EMExXA4BQ6QHSu6LLVy7MEr83-SOoAF0R6RimzizPOFp4IfsUhguPkFUdC2LoMHj__pojr5Ecez72mdQ0CygjeTY6P7rxXSBDVwOmp7e3h-/s1600/IMG_20190419_132206.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOBTM56xqbQhXz6i590bIiXS9dOT50bd3B2EMExXA4BQ6QHSu6LLVy7MEr83-SOoAF0R6RimzizPOFp4IfsUhguPkFUdC2LoMHj__pojr5Ecez72mdQ0CygjeTY6P7rxXSBDVwOmp7e3h-/s640/IMG_20190419_132206.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ta daa!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUviMICYYu5oSl2YL8wfBjAwgZZBvMPuCWO1eRWZ-AMSrIbBuhkeRjHuWko2z43AdOeARsIk3pZ0hMOxyTaJ840IBemPybHTDNH_gkUX4OZUUOLOKUhpb9zz2Ni3mfnmEd0ac9_lvR7OCX/s1600/IMG_20190419_133128.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUviMICYYu5oSl2YL8wfBjAwgZZBvMPuCWO1eRWZ-AMSrIbBuhkeRjHuWko2z43AdOeARsIk3pZ0hMOxyTaJ840IBemPybHTDNH_gkUX4OZUUOLOKUhpb9zz2Ni3mfnmEd0ac9_lvR7OCX/s640/IMG_20190419_133128.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No one loves trains the way the Japanese love trains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After five days of heavy exertion and tranquil beauty, our time on the trail was at an end. We arrived in Tokyo via the local train on Friday afternoon, checked in to our hotel to freshen up a bit, and braved the metro during rush hour to meet up with an old high-school friend of Michael's for a conveyor belt Sushi feast.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLX7vmkSMsdMG0BpQoqBWA_N-EPpGF8PrfoYroxU0qEEFE2cfCuX-btmr6L871ImxiQlxtMz85FUK8VFn48JYMCIUKmJiq59cGYEFDVcbxSIQIZNmPQURkRm4B9nB2SKag0mfx_iIalEmU/s1600/IMG_20190420_101334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLX7vmkSMsdMG0BpQoqBWA_N-EPpGF8PrfoYroxU0qEEFE2cfCuX-btmr6L871ImxiQlxtMz85FUK8VFn48JYMCIUKmJiq59cGYEFDVcbxSIQIZNmPQURkRm4B9nB2SKag0mfx_iIalEmU/s400/IMG_20190420_101334.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mt. Fuji is somewhere in that haze</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Having, by this point, experienced an abundance of serene tranquility, classical architecture, and floral beauty, we dedicated our one full day in Tokyo to "crazy robot nonsense." We started at the Tokyo Municipal Government building which has a free observation deck providing a great view of the Tokyo skyline and, on a good day, Mt. Fuji. It was not a good day, but it was still a good orientation.<br />
<br />
We then hiked through the neighborhood of Shinjuku, stopping to play wacky arcade games at the arcades that were already noisy and bustling at 11 AM. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBdfNWEReqHXUwhjtwiXFPfvYe9opk7Y8Ne8X9Vgfh7viFJxdRPJZpR9sRGJ5GNr2LFjjoMfbdkZnJFxWAb-sZjLQrOF_6pCpW_QqRHXfIlWW8n3eliCdCPUuG2tXY8Z01X2iquxASNTDp/s1600/VID_20190420_110523.mp4" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBdfNWEReqHXUwhjtwiXFPfvYe9opk7Y8Ne8X9Vgfh7viFJxdRPJZpR9sRGJ5GNr2LFjjoMfbdkZnJFxWAb-sZjLQrOF_6pCpW_QqRHXfIlWW8n3eliCdCPUuG2tXY8Z01X2iquxASNTDp/s640/VID_20190420_110523.mp4" width="640" /></a>Next was a bit of a scavenger hunt to find a cat cafe that allowed 3-year-olds, followed by a metro trip to the harbor to see the life-size Gundam Unicorn statue and visit the Museum of Emerging Science and Technology. There we played with various hands-on exhibits like a functional mechanical marble-run model of the internet, a working-backwards model and game for thinking about climate change, and an Asimo robotics demonstration.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqSvn22dipaEPRd-hJ7z4kSEw9QvxZGJM2nYDs-XJ02bNmqKSmSVFYVX3uWA5-t8V84LB0noCGkLDMoOBPv3ScI0IY6Gr8QohL6CWt5nGSOPN8X-deCd3Yr_mp6Eyw8ucm4msls3LdLBgc/s1600/20190420_121355.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqSvn22dipaEPRd-hJ7z4kSEw9QvxZGJM2nYDs-XJ02bNmqKSmSVFYVX3uWA5-t8V84LB0noCGkLDMoOBPv3ScI0IY6Gr8QohL6CWt5nGSOPN8X-deCd3Yr_mp6Eyw8ucm4msls3LdLBgc/s640/20190420_121355.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hot cocoa goes great with kitties</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0eCXjcIK0CeYpJQ5Et6Jcbkxu2HPxCtlCvSLnDmI7kns1pRBpwHMj6ZmEkqzPfH6mr8Tu0FJw2KASIvIuHKdJ1f0WvFocw2tltEceBv4QFfPKeTMZwY8-M5waPNYoMns0iuFjXyCUVMoq/s1600/20190420_120550.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0eCXjcIK0CeYpJQ5Et6Jcbkxu2HPxCtlCvSLnDmI7kns1pRBpwHMj6ZmEkqzPfH6mr8Tu0FJw2KASIvIuHKdJ1f0WvFocw2tltEceBv4QFfPKeTMZwY8-M5waPNYoMns0iuFjXyCUVMoq/s640/20190420_120550.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Such meow. Much purr.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ArI2n6QUfwNP056Xb7nuFC6Vz16nJwozB9lHe9pFkpB-KwrUd1DeYlNfgJPxT6K_nr2FywxEyuT0Pz4I7T06AM4fOyFuFNBdkePcRsvEWYBXPJ9tPx4ekJ5rUQISCHotmtI44l_BhS_W/s1600/20190420_142741.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ArI2n6QUfwNP056Xb7nuFC6Vz16nJwozB9lHe9pFkpB-KwrUd1DeYlNfgJPxT6K_nr2FywxEyuT0Pz4I7T06AM4fOyFuFNBdkePcRsvEWYBXPJ9tPx4ekJ5rUQISCHotmtI44l_BhS_W/s640/20190420_142741.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">NT-D System enabled: Psycho frame ACTIVATED</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjYcx6ebDVus2GBtXiPcJa3Ajxe3jkBp2utEX6ciUYyHENzvgdrTbHtIw2i5xuqqhr5ESrbW6fh42PvEGAvxX7DnYY2QFhfOeDGO68OFxRcq9FY3_T3S9Js379ZrY7i6AzCraxHI-lMJ1h/s1600/20190420_151105.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjYcx6ebDVus2GBtXiPcJa3Ajxe3jkBp2utEX6ciUYyHENzvgdrTbHtIw2i5xuqqhr5ESrbW6fh42PvEGAvxX7DnYY2QFhfOeDGO68OFxRcq9FY3_T3S9Js379ZrY7i6AzCraxHI-lMJ1h/s640/20190420_151105.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black and white balls stand for zeroes and ones</td></tr>
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Afterwards we took the metro back up to the Akihabara neighborhood and
explored the anime/manga superstores looking for nerdy souvenirs. We
grabbed a late tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) dinner at a hole-in-the-wall
where we had to order from a vending machine, and eventually retired to
our hotel where we packed and collapsed. A full day, and a good one!<br />
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And that wrapped up our time in Japan. It was even parts relaxing timeless hiking and whirlwind tour, we could have spent a whole week in Kyoto and probably a lifetime in Tokyo. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhKLBs55sfec5P2Cjjf6P3qIiBXZmYiE2L6qhCU9cTaU8zrHngO0IKybBE2C5vtzqZgi0PBmeH91FWS_G6jDI4cH0Ojm3tWNvVBoVhKpCQSXVx00kftDwATE7aBGeNQq-JHxK1eT-gBbxy/s1600/20190417_134935.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhKLBs55sfec5P2Cjjf6P3qIiBXZmYiE2L6qhCU9cTaU8zrHngO0IKybBE2C5vtzqZgi0PBmeH91FWS_G6jDI4cH0Ojm3tWNvVBoVhKpCQSXVx00kftDwATE7aBGeNQq-JHxK1eT-gBbxy/s640/20190417_134935.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stopping to smell the flowers</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-38283495304330352572019-05-06T09:11:00.002-07:002019-05-06T09:11:36.563-07:00Rajasthan Part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Welcome back! After Ranthambore we had a couple of more urban destinations in a row. We started off in Jaipur, the "Pink City" that was actually a planned city built in the early 18th century when the capital of the Amer kingdom outgrew its narrow valley to the north.</div>
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It contains, among other things, a collection of enormous mechanical astronomical tools, including sundials and star charts. The largest sundial in the collection could tell time accurate to 2 seconds, and the assorted instruments were largely used to be able to more precisely generate horoscopes. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG_omDNuWJk6vI7F1dIqTqaYvhLQPHTC52Mw3L8DgEQjEMiw03XwqLB82U4v5a9t3O0jWOt10yB1kd_mlIxSbRaQELC_MgqFG4FUtfvZ64W2C7msbMFs82crB0ZXkEPOJtWTEFM-MpZ8Oo/s1600/IMG_2490.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG_omDNuWJk6vI7F1dIqTqaYvhLQPHTC52Mw3L8DgEQjEMiw03XwqLB82U4v5a9t3O0jWOt10yB1kd_mlIxSbRaQELC_MgqFG4FUtfvZ64W2C7msbMFs82crB0ZXkEPOJtWTEFM-MpZ8Oo/s640/IMG_2490.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sadly, they didn't let us climb to the top</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqKntv4AvyG3T5_jda9oWGehNE5uRIorZHyJNkxKboihG3MoR92_Yvc6jzghOHIYx6tAC8hYYvf34yFdJPJFBZHoMkl3NcGmVazDlhkL5AIN4INsOpLNmQ3DQ-sRU-T8IlXgYveFUI8IQN/s1600/IMG_2499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqKntv4AvyG3T5_jda9oWGehNE5uRIorZHyJNkxKboihG3MoR92_Yvc6jzghOHIYx6tAC8hYYvf34yFdJPJFBZHoMkl3NcGmVazDlhkL5AIN4INsOpLNmQ3DQ-sRU-T8IlXgYveFUI8IQN/s640/IMG_2499.JPG" width="425" /></a></div>
We also visited the city palace and explored the beautiful inlaid halls and gates, and our guide for the day brought us to a local market. At the market the entire local economy was laid out in the open, with farmers bringing their vegetables and flowers in to the central square and selling only large quantities at wholesale prices, where it was bought by middlemen who would bring it just 10 meters away outside the official market square, and sell a wider variety of vegetables and herbs at a mark-up. The farmers themselves were even just renting the right to sell in the market from the lease holders, whose job it seemed was to sit in the shade and drink tea.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt0MVJcRQkv2HgiNGtZJcTuEnLtpZVblT6GTmjvc_T_I-ACSMgWYU0EfISimDQqf2Y0O-8w-EqvMObUKa0i5jniT8GdyeSZ5zylpLWSuq-jWn5cauKDDRvLPHWZhrzxnq3ir6exxI_Ap6C/s1600/IMG_2505.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt0MVJcRQkv2HgiNGtZJcTuEnLtpZVblT6GTmjvc_T_I-ACSMgWYU0EfISimDQqf2Y0O-8w-EqvMObUKa0i5jniT8GdyeSZ5zylpLWSuq-jWn5cauKDDRvLPHWZhrzxnq3ir6exxI_Ap6C/s640/IMG_2505.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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In addition to the food market there were streets and streets of flower sellers, again selling in bulk to people who were creating garlands to be sold to the people who were going to the temple to bring as offerings.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLodYIL76_4ZJziXKzfXiTYgW9ULgWdoQTyxkYEKr_yG0ZtJYY1kF1qFiKFMuW2mKcIltRoFJGilpQvCOFC-5v830ZoR3bs74uc87_7u1b1xMcwufA_KUgsgG48DqzOIOy5Js4lsZxBbL/s1600/IMG_2513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLodYIL76_4ZJziXKzfXiTYgW9ULgWdoQTyxkYEKr_yG0ZtJYY1kF1qFiKFMuW2mKcIltRoFJGilpQvCOFC-5v830ZoR3bs74uc87_7u1b1xMcwufA_KUgsgG48DqzOIOy5Js4lsZxBbL/s640/IMG_2513.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nobody could resist giving him flowers</td></tr>
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We're not sure if it was part of a tourism-board-approved itinerary or not, but our guide also brought us into the kitchen of one of the more popular street food stalls, and explained how the fried potatoes and curry was created on an industrial scale. For whatever reason, super hot, bustling commercial kitchens ended up being a recurring theme on our trip.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiUfv5jCBcCGrTmJXCF6FzSeqWcd7WDQZ2TGaS-sn-Q4xBQDnbYaPHLaQRPABvjeC5j-a4OBao_6cHL2AIApyzPlMUqC_DrpnOBq8iULd5m14luxIH6-VybctsHHp3-Vg2pR1YsGF44DoD/s1600/IMG_2534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiUfv5jCBcCGrTmJXCF6FzSeqWcd7WDQZ2TGaS-sn-Q4xBQDnbYaPHLaQRPABvjeC5j-a4OBao_6cHL2AIApyzPlMUqC_DrpnOBq8iULd5m14luxIH6-VybctsHHp3-Vg2pR1YsGF44DoD/s640/IMG_2534.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We eventually made our way back to our minibus, where we took a quick break to feed the cows that had gathered there. The ubiquity of wandering cows is hard to overstate. We saw them foraging in trash piles and scrub brush, but also being fed the day's first bread by city dwellers. They were, like many things we encountered, an aspect of daily Indian life that had basically no western equivalent.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUdLrRfEX8Yv1HexNnNNISa1X-kjErw3_tZhB70ZWGL-Ewzqeu0JoqYwREa2C1t-tWnLULo0_EmTVH4VESbld-taamjB1LO5JUexD6QFSA3BEds3yD3eIW8W3FkE48oxoMQpOBK7TifTTm/s1600/IMG_20190203_122814.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUdLrRfEX8Yv1HexNnNNISa1X-kjErw3_tZhB70ZWGL-Ewzqeu0JoqYwREa2C1t-tWnLULo0_EmTVH4VESbld-taamjB1LO5JUexD6QFSA3BEds3yD3eIW8W3FkE48oxoMQpOBK7TifTTm/s640/IMG_20190203_122814.jpg" width="640" /> </a><br />
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The next day we took a trip out past Amer to visit some elephants. Although there are a lot of tourist attractions that still use elephants as conveyances (like the Amer fort just down the road), but the practice is decreasing as more and more tourists realize that the elephants don't actually _like_ to cart people around. Instead, we visited an elephant sanctuary where we pet the elephants, fed them sugarcane, and went on a stroll with them. They are terrifyingly large in person.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtn5OZuXkeez8BXCu3ezEKA8WQ-_cb8691KOA5UJm3cc2gST-fHYYIdc96Zjapy7Dh59oPtUumKuEkTb4ZqRhVlzq1chR8z6zpu0eReR8PeR5OtbRjA_WhOlbWWs6G1TE3l_kvzZOYP5IX/s1600/IMG_2542.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtn5OZuXkeez8BXCu3ezEKA8WQ-_cb8691KOA5UJm3cc2gST-fHYYIdc96Zjapy7Dh59oPtUumKuEkTb4ZqRhVlzq1chR8z6zpu0eReR8PeR5OtbRjA_WhOlbWWs6G1TE3l_kvzZOYP5IX/s640/IMG_2542.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy elephant is happy.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuV5c-HNLwJZleVXusCE5lIU-UQT59XlQc8PEJzOigueX6-jj6ibJChyphenhyphenwQ8-1UujTfH5NkjrgDO8pHi1TYP-G64x2gQa0wV0INAtDQBuNoRZl1s_21e9fOtVxzYiHek8xuLZati3WnjX7h/s1600/IMG_20190203_142821.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuV5c-HNLwJZleVXusCE5lIU-UQT59XlQc8PEJzOigueX6-jj6ibJChyphenhyphenwQ8-1UujTfH5NkjrgDO8pHi1TYP-G64x2gQa0wV0INAtDQBuNoRZl1s_21e9fOtVxzYiHek8xuLZati3WnjX7h/s640/IMG_20190203_142821.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our mixtape is gonna be sick.</td></tr>
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Our next stop was the holy city of Pushkar, home to the one of the most famous Brahman temples in India. Of the top tier of the 33 million Hindu gods, Brahma (the creator) is a lot less popular these days than Shiva (the destroyer) or Vishnu (the preserver). Pushkar is built around a holy lake that is said to have been blessed by lord Brahma himself, and consists of dozens of temples and holy bathing ponds (or "ghats"). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqNpgm_idHRzVaVC_ZXwOak4YdikCl35Y6kG4cFLxwmkSooZU2kNZa3cbQ5dnw5bzLJrGtCEUNPXJ0-fpFez90IQFayWGY92Rj9Lyoq3lkY-jhm6e-ufrxNBNpNRKNoeXJBhk6iJqUdj5M/s1600/IMG_20190204_173404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqNpgm_idHRzVaVC_ZXwOak4YdikCl35Y6kG4cFLxwmkSooZU2kNZa3cbQ5dnw5bzLJrGtCEUNPXJ0-fpFez90IQFayWGY92Rj9Lyoq3lkY-jhm6e-ufrxNBNpNRKNoeXJBhk6iJqUdj5M/s640/IMG_20190204_173404.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shoes go off, shoes go on; shoes go off, shoes go on...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeGIx-XmLWVRO6r5p_sg89MjVtXsCEaVfQBWz8VgQhHdKhrw8eYPnUE9-cd7PSVmUw6tFXhHfZVU93Zj4SZsET2eKc2piFM_cWMmfcy4MDe5VT-22smT5t6A8SJbsRyKPpf9DegTNjNUqf/s1600/IMG_20190204_173054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeGIx-XmLWVRO6r5p_sg89MjVtXsCEaVfQBWz8VgQhHdKhrw8eYPnUE9-cd7PSVmUw6tFXhHfZVU93Zj4SZsET2eKc2piFM_cWMmfcy4MDe5VT-22smT5t6A8SJbsRyKPpf9DegTNjNUqf/s640/IMG_20190204_173054.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The water is sacred, but not especially inviting.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pushkar at night! This restaurant served us eggs, even though they weren't supposed to.</td></tr>
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After Pushkar we headed west, and stayed in an array of small villages. We took a jeep "safari" out to explore some of them and meet some locals where we had opium tea with a farmer's family, and Eldest tried her hand at throwing a clay bowl at a potter's workshop.<br />
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On our way westward to Osian and the Thar desert we stopped off at Jodhpur (the Blue City) to tour the fort there. Jodhpur is the second largest city in Rajasthan, and had a picturesque lost-in-time feel to it.<br />
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Finally, we made it to our last real destination before taking a night train back to Delhi for our flights home: a camel camp on the edge of the Thar desert. The Thar desert extends from here well into Pakistan, and was a pretty inhospitable place even when we were there during the nicest weather of the year. The record high temperature in this region is over 125 degrees fahrenheit and gets just a few inches of rain per year. Our children claimed that this wasn't a real desert since it didn't have minecraft-style cactuses, but I think the camels prove otherwise.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trekking out to get a good view of the sunset</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There is no graceful way to get off a camel.</td></tr>
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Osian had once been a large and prosperous town, and had a number of important pilgrimage sites dating back to the 8th and 9th centuries. We saw a steady stream of people coming to receive blessings, split sacrificial coconuts, and pay their respects to the goddess Sachiya.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Like all Hindu temples, this one felt like a cross between a cathedral and a casino.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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After our camel excursion we spent a day lounging around our lodging at the camel racing track, eating delicious food and letting the kids run around until it was time to pack them into an overnight train back to Delhi.<br />
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India is an incredible place, full of bustling energy, insane contradictions, and extremes of climate, geography, and wealth. Between Michael's work and Elizabeth's social group around the condo we know a lot of people that are part of the Indian diaspora, and this trip gave us a lot more insight into their background and perspective. It was also amazing to see how a country as populous as China can exist without any sort of strict hierarchical control and command economy... it's not always pretty but it seems to be holding together.<br />
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Next up: We go hiking through the mountains in Japan!<br />
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Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-45355144819193199232019-02-18T08:01:00.001-08:002019-02-18T08:01:59.369-08:00Back In The SaddleHello, and welcome back! Our blogging responsibilities got away from us, but we're getting back into the swing of things. Since we've last posted we've visited Cambodia, Vietnam, and India, but while it's still relatively fresh in our mind we're going to start at the end and work backwards over the next few posts.<br />
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We took advantage of the kids break for Chinese New Year (and the fact that Michael's work is pretty quiet until after the CNY holiday) to spend 2 weeks touring in and around Rajasthan, an arid state in the northwest of India that borders on Pakistan and contains the Thar desert as well as countless temples, palaces, shrines, and nature reserves.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Borcherts gotta map.</td></tr>
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It has been said that India is not a vacation, but rather an experience. Having traveled around a fair amount by this point in our lives, we can safely say that India is one of the most intense places we have ever visited. It is a place of extremes and energy, of incredible tradition and history but also very immediate. We like to make a distinction when we talk to our kids about whether or not we are going on a "vacation" or a "trip", where vacations are primarily relaxing and trips are primarily character building. India was a trip.<br />
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We flew into New Delhi where we toured around for a day acclimating to the cold weather and culture. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, there are actually sacred cows wandering around intersections in Delhi.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Our first day in Delhi was Republic Day in India, when they celebrated their declaration of independence as well as the day that their first constitution took effect a year later. As a result pretty much all of old Delhi was closed for tours since it was thronged with hundreds of thousands of patriotic revelers, but we were still able to see the tomb of the second Mughal emperor (Humayun), which was the first garden tomb on the Indian subcontinent and served as one of the inspirations for the Taj Mahal.<br />
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The Mughals were descended from various Asian steppes peoples, and swept into the subcontinent in the early 16th century from the northwest, defeating the Delhi Sultanate and establishing an empire that covered modern-day Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, and Bangladesh. The Mughals established imperial control over the patchwork of Hindu kings that ruled and managed the day-to-day interactions with the locals, and would rule India until their power structures were co-opted by the British East India Company in the mid-19th century.<br />
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Our first day in Delhi we also toured the Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, a prominent Sikh temple with a large holy pond of magical healing water, and a kitchen where they prepare over 20,000 free meals per day.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orange bandanas for everyone!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The chapati machine on the right could spit out about 2 per second.</td></tr>
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India is very good at making religions. It is the origin of Hinduism and Buddhism (or as Michael likes to call it, "new testament Hinduism"), but also Jainism and Sikhism. Buddhism is now a tiny minority in India, and successive waves of invasion and immigration have made Islam the largest minority religion. <br />
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The next morning we took the train to Agra, and spent the day visiting the Red Fort and "Baby Taj" (a.k.a. the Tomb of I'timād-ud-Daulah, which also served as an inspiration for the Taj Mahal).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seriously, this completely covered a three-storey building.</td></tr>
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Basically all of the construction in Rajasthan, either historical or contemporary, was built from sedimentary rock. A distinctive red sandstone was ubiquitous, forming not only the walls and towers of ancient hilltop forts but also the ceilings and lintels of houses we saw under construction and even fenceposts along the side of the road. Massive white marble outcroppings amidst the sandstone were quarried to build the palaces, mausoleums, and monuments throughout the Mughal period, and were completely covered in incredibly intricate stone inlay.<br />
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We ended the day at a park across the river from the Taj Mahal where we watched the sunset and the kids blew off some pent-up energy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJEfR7xP8_nDlAr7cKqf-EKEJ_mj5BNOf2QiikPe5lgXutSebnuk7UI8a4IED2Gwgzl1mhWiRMOA9ECkMcaAHIkks1P6eWOeOGfIqWSPuDeUtF44Rq_eQm_Ct8MpZm6etmW7sxanSZwm74/s1600/IMG_2210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJEfR7xP8_nDlAr7cKqf-EKEJ_mj5BNOf2QiikPe5lgXutSebnuk7UI8a4IED2Gwgzl1mhWiRMOA9ECkMcaAHIkks1P6eWOeOGfIqWSPuDeUtF44Rq_eQm_Ct8MpZm6etmW7sxanSZwm74/s640/IMG_2210.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">AMAZING MONUMENT plus pretty good goats.</td></tr>
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The next day we toured the Taj Mahal at dawn. No pictures do it justice. <br />
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Afterwards we had a quick breakfast and boarded our private excursion bus that would be our mode of transportation for the next 10 days and drove to the town of Karauli, stopping off for some birding at the Kheoladeo Bird Sanctuary, where hundreds of bird species from as far away as Siberia spend the winter. These include the Bar-Headed Goose, which actually flies <i>over</i> the Himalayas to get to nesting grounds in peninsular India.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTCaq_IUjadcm_1OhDxqYehRgYA-aelH_5Gk9XHX6xqXJIVBLFrNB8ytWPO0H77TVIjTLz7Z0Y16DzaOZnEiDHAkMDVzA9u_qErh04UE3pO7ziLVH2pS1W88gGQ8VbT6UteqoPMIgzbkmE/s1600/IMG_2370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTCaq_IUjadcm_1OhDxqYehRgYA-aelH_5Gk9XHX6xqXJIVBLFrNB8ytWPO0H77TVIjTLz7Z0Y16DzaOZnEiDHAkMDVzA9u_qErh04UE3pO7ziLVH2pS1W88gGQ8VbT6UteqoPMIgzbkmE/s640/IMG_2370.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
We also saw storks, pelicans, kingfishers, cranes, deer, owls, and Sambar deer (a sort of Indian elk). We hired bicycle rickshaws and a naturalist guide to show us around for the two hours we had to spare, but the park could have been an all-day event. This was a common theme with our India travels... nearly everywhere we went was larger and richer than we had time to fully appreciate.<br />
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In Karauli we stayed at a hotel that was operating out of the converted palace of the local Maharajah.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBTOV4B0qopy-HQ81ySzdHy_T4RX6Ijcy4AjD9srHJ5rK-B4e79rAhO2ZD19iITuC-nFThlIpOIDO4-MfXg7lot5_HO3zY0J65I0zPJAbOVrwHFuMwiFmoMEqq0gaU9EjOYxIQjZE9SrJG/s1600/IMG_2402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBTOV4B0qopy-HQ81ySzdHy_T4RX6Ijcy4AjD9srHJ5rK-B4e79rAhO2ZD19iITuC-nFThlIpOIDO4-MfXg7lot5_HO3zY0J65I0zPJAbOVrwHFuMwiFmoMEqq0gaU9EjOYxIQjZE9SrJG/s640/IMG_2402.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Out of frame: the stuffed tiger and display cases full of swords</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjrVaeIZoDyLYV69rZitS6fsHewEZgJOQy_27l-PLZ6-d_7D00m1FZsjgP4-8cbXja0ktz-dfb9taIqq7Y7lSEvI45M19uGZiugwb6aeg3szunZPML_5UGGJUic95Lz-ue0M_bNtw3yj2O/s1600/IMG_20190130_093635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjrVaeIZoDyLYV69rZitS6fsHewEZgJOQy_27l-PLZ6-d_7D00m1FZsjgP4-8cbXja0ktz-dfb9taIqq7Y7lSEvI45M19uGZiugwb6aeg3szunZPML_5UGGJUic95Lz-ue0M_bNtw3yj2O/s640/IMG_20190130_093635.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a bad place to relax for an afternoon</td></tr>
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The British Raj was, in many ways, an imperial power structure that simply replaced the Mughals but left everything beneath it basically intact. The hundreds of small kingdoms began teaching their nobility English instead of Arabic, but other than that it was a change that wouldn't have necessarily been noticed by your average farmer or goat herder. Between 1947 and 1950 India converted from a British colony to a republic, and all 500+ kingdoms entered into a complex process of essentially negotiating their relinquishment of the complete power and autonomy that they enjoyed over their territory. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXTmu-cnVaxwzio8TKVXdWlzi_Q8FlxaVse6bW-N7KjcUlWaraD-h4zWq2r2lgsE80sAQrjSWfgEgeZpKG9hhLAayvx8kMnoJSJGAxa836464HJHXfLbK-n-nf-PoZ9L8mP3vIfrqjAzbC/s1600/IMG_20190130_085618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXTmu-cnVaxwzio8TKVXdWlzi_Q8FlxaVse6bW-N7KjcUlWaraD-h4zWq2r2lgsE80sAQrjSWfgEgeZpKG9hhLAayvx8kMnoJSJGAxa836464HJHXfLbK-n-nf-PoZ9L8mP3vIfrqjAzbC/s320/IMG_20190130_085618.jpg" width="240" /></a>Many of the local kings emerged quite wealthy and still the de-facto ruler of their former territory, however they no longer had their hereditary guaranteed income streams. Some of them have done better than others, but many of them have begun converting their palaces into luxurious bed-and-breakfasts. The Bhanwar Vilas Palace (pictured above) is still the home of Maharajah Krishna Chandra Pal, the 181st king of the Yaduvanshi dynasty. He happened to be in town while we were there, and we chatted about digital marketing while our eldest children rode his horses. Michael and Middle-Child also explored his garage, which was full of howdahs, royal palanquins, 16th century firearms, and His Highness's Royal Chrysler.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiREyPcnjQ-Y7Z1HBY5M07KLoE4mkj5EUhPRDdW4rS-Id7QYo97bzahZOwaIbgUI4104JFiHwUHmPTKlQX5zsrw3lU8rLw4clB-br_J2fSGNb10mMhgl0yALKpXTh0V7LN9mGH1_mA6mV8D/s1600/IMG_20190130_090343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiREyPcnjQ-Y7Z1HBY5M07KLoE4mkj5EUhPRDdW4rS-Id7QYo97bzahZOwaIbgUI4104JFiHwUHmPTKlQX5zsrw3lU8rLw4clB-br_J2fSGNb10mMhgl0yALKpXTh0V7LN9mGH1_mA6mV8D/s640/IMG_20190130_090343.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And you thought a lot of junk accumulated in _your_ house</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2WSMx4IWALGBk_j8sy7QroDVNquQrEww_ZjRzNPlbhpSZd415QCa4lMqpeQPt2-5V2d39n82WamhGy6ENqFuVZypqqR8cTeF7-QQAmaTx-yy61AwSqayixelvzNSiK1DeEc-gT-ct-Jz5/s640/IMG_20190130_090041.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="480" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Complete with royal sigil</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2WSMx4IWALGBk_j8sy7QroDVNquQrEww_ZjRzNPlbhpSZd415QCa4lMqpeQPt2-5V2d39n82WamhGy6ENqFuVZypqqR8cTeF7-QQAmaTx-yy61AwSqayixelvzNSiK1DeEc-gT-ct-Jz5/s1600/IMG_20190130_090041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a> </div>
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While in Karauli we also rode a camel cart into town to visit the old city palace, which the current Maharajah's grandfather moved out of in 1933. The first wing of the palace had been built in the 15th century, with successive waves of construction up until the 19th.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDjlKTrXlX6a5G4_-wq6CzPLF9jvBM8rR-iX32bM17sU24YYKybw2Vf71zE3qYyfxntF2gjwoKpO8MEhDj2izrsMdpRguoCPznid3jlddUatuWoqFLs5OQfqt1O6_KGJUpVqk8zXR55pQ6/s1600/IMG_20190129_110540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDjlKTrXlX6a5G4_-wq6CzPLF9jvBM8rR-iX32bM17sU24YYKybw2Vf71zE3qYyfxntF2gjwoKpO8MEhDj2izrsMdpRguoCPznid3jlddUatuWoqFLs5OQfqt1O6_KGJUpVqk8zXR55pQ6/s640/IMG_20190129_110540.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Literally all of this is made of stone. Even the screens.</td></tr>
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This picture shows the largest courtyard, but doesn't really capture the scale of the place. Also, as with all palaces in India, you need to imagine it teeming with brightly-dressed courtiers, concubines, eunuch guards, and wandering magicians. There would have been thick curtains hung in all of the windows during winter months, and thick rugs and embroidered cushions all over the floors. There would have been gravity-powered fountains running, flowering plants everywhere, and also the occasional elephant. The fact that this was royal life up until the 1930's is mind-blowing.<br />
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After two nights in Karauli our next stop was the Ranthambore Tiger Preserve, where we slept in tents. Like I said: a place of extremes. The tiger preserve also contains a hilltop fort, and the hilltop fort also contains an important shrine to Ganesha, the elephant-headed Hindu god of beginnings and remover of obstacles. The shrine to Ganesha contains many many monkeys.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmezyumZSLur-6HMLMNDyBiIMC_hucv3Hc14tqJxoLnLgwwL5ZaA2BBSf2IZzYdy8L7X2TcNgSEQcvECiV5Nhlo7yUGiF_ELTwqTuWJPmqc1mRad9rQ2gRxd947kS76trvP3Yus5QcLlQd/s1600/IMG_2430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmezyumZSLur-6HMLMNDyBiIMC_hucv3Hc14tqJxoLnLgwwL5ZaA2BBSf2IZzYdy8L7X2TcNgSEQcvECiV5Nhlo7yUGiF_ELTwqTuWJPmqc1mRad9rQ2gRxd947kS76trvP3Yus5QcLlQd/s640/IMG_2430.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Langur monkeys are "friendly". At least in comparison to Macaques.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj22xVKBtUGBK7edGqfbBSSO26LqKjyjKGpjsDyE7hTE1VH1pBUcbxqb8hF6HBy6iFMrNWzkHsc8FuF21PZ3HjUWd31JzsSCK_eQKXgftuFvi3WwaKYPsP61edlIY6o5HyNNxP-BPXLHKyu/s1600/IMG_2423.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj22xVKBtUGBK7edGqfbBSSO26LqKjyjKGpjsDyE7hTE1VH1pBUcbxqb8hF6HBy6iFMrNWzkHsc8FuF21PZ3HjUWd31JzsSCK_eQKXgftuFvi3WwaKYPsP61edlIY6o5HyNNxP-BPXLHKyu/s640/IMG_2423.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Somewhere in this picture there is definitely a wild tiger.</td></tr>
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The following day we took two safari trips out into the tiger preserve, and while we saw a crocodile, many deer, a mongoose and a leopard, saw no tigers. This is, apparently, not uncommon. There are only a handful of tigers in the 400-square-kilometer park, and those tigers are only active for brief periods each day. Even still, it was a beautiful savannah landscape and probably the most peaceful place we found in India.<br />
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Coming up next time, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Elephants, and Camels!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmgiWJtQbgvwMhVYpvMm5igxx1ClSsEZ7bZ-fKSNyAZ3FtQ0kQuMkuj1ZlnJ229jig-YiEcu2gM33SQZrPkIjFfcWJOej5HRST951oYCd1Q-FfnhJqAf23kteVTjYQ7oidnDMiG4l_H7wi/s1600/IMG_2487.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmgiWJtQbgvwMhVYpvMm5igxx1ClSsEZ7bZ-fKSNyAZ3FtQ0kQuMkuj1ZlnJ229jig-YiEcu2gM33SQZrPkIjFfcWJOej5HRST951oYCd1Q-FfnhJqAf23kteVTjYQ7oidnDMiG4l_H7wi/s640/IMG_2487.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Attempting to purchase more pepto-bismol</td></tr>
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<br />Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-16992315295831656442018-08-06T07:00:00.000-07:002018-08-06T07:00:10.130-07:00China Trip - Chengdu (Again!)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Our final stay in Chengdu, this time hitting up some of the lower-tier tourist sites and getting ready to say goodbye to China (for now). We awoke to a rainy morning, and after camping out in the hostel for as long as possible eventually went out with umbrellas and ponchos to explore a nearby monastery. Afterwards we had an adventure in the noodle shop that we were introduced to by our food tour on our first visit, and eventually managed to order the "right" noodles after accumulating a pile of pretty-tasty-but-not-as-amazing bowls of noodles. After a trip back to the hostel to dry off and rest, we headed down to the Culture Park to explore a little before taking in a Sichuan opera. Sichuan opera is famous for fire-breathing and "face-changing", in which characters change their masks seemingly instantaneously while on stage. It's a little hard to describe, so here's a video that shows it in action: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fWVAN0Er_4">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fWVAN0Er_4</a></div>
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Going to the Sichuan opera is a little bit like going to a ballgame. The theater we went to was actually outdoors with just a canvas roof, and we spent the entire show munching on sunflower seeds. The show was a combination of story, singing, comedy, dance, and musical elements highlighting the cultural traditions of Chengdu.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVqPm_DWcj2cKSbOCRJpaTM6ZYYaVdsuGxJrvOcIpgDKf-zRUssLBn3wYt0Gv1kGevB-pp4YXx2YuV_33PG9Yvv1UcxvatSvCrsokvqGpJwc00XP6j3tCoK-PMpR2EL-hqa73FOXM_xbrd/s1600/IMG_20180629_175241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVqPm_DWcj2cKSbOCRJpaTM6ZYYaVdsuGxJrvOcIpgDKf-zRUssLBn3wYt0Gv1kGevB-pp4YXx2YuV_33PG9Yvv1UcxvatSvCrsokvqGpJwc00XP6j3tCoK-PMpR2EL-hqa73FOXM_xbrd/s640/IMG_20180629_175241.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh4fkjY4yggCctoRArHmamb9SHU2O6FOX-tvaBmw3k_n3xl27-kW1Egp9aXXkKrUeWrvpnFPluL8k9734HZcSk2EfrrAEDecZUxTFJV2OLOb9YehbJha19gTWqDSlvfwUJtc0IViDZNUXy/s1600/VID_20180629_182615.mp4" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh4fkjY4yggCctoRArHmamb9SHU2O6FOX-tvaBmw3k_n3xl27-kW1Egp9aXXkKrUeWrvpnFPluL8k9734HZcSk2EfrrAEDecZUxTFJV2OLOb9YehbJha19gTWqDSlvfwUJtc0IViDZNUXy/s640/VID_20180629_182615.mp4" width="640" /></a></div>
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The next day we were picked up by a driver and we went out to visit Quingcheng Mountain, the birth place of Taoism. But first: A Ghost City! China has been adding commercial and residential high-rises at an astounding clip for the last decade. Enormous projects like the one below would be entirely sold before ground was even broken in Shanghai and Beijing, but out in Western China they either sit completely un-sold, or with units purchased as investments but left vacant. As a result, there were city-sized development projects with only a handful of cars and businesses, waiting for demographics and migration to catch up with the infrastructure.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7MyZjCLUmvdBRNjB4Qj6Uy83dELJPSXakcXW8LoTwnBJmy22bkhkF6eArb61_cffhSKMxL00BMMDRigaIUXF92v28uwNWQdMMMxEwiuZfg-B_mL4uuT2XMAGQaGJnrMzHgD97ibHYLD7I/s1600/IMG_20180622_092856.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7MyZjCLUmvdBRNjB4Qj6Uy83dELJPSXakcXW8LoTwnBJmy22bkhkF6eArb61_cffhSKMxL00BMMDRigaIUXF92v28uwNWQdMMMxEwiuZfg-B_mL4uuT2XMAGQaGJnrMzHgD97ibHYLD7I/s640/IMG_20180622_092856.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Quingcheng Mountain was home to a mix of Buddhist and Taoist temples and monasteries, and figures prominently in early Chinese mythology. It was where Zhang Ling synthesized the various indigenous belief systems into the formalized doctrine of Chinese Taoism, and thanks to a real estate dispute in the 17th century is now regarded as the "official" home of Taoism. We could have spent a full week exploring the small temples and caves and side paths, but instead we had three hours to hike to the top of the mountain and get back to the car. Still enough time to splash in the stream, though. The mountain itself was almost impossibly beautiful and idyllic.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3DtCCD_qKgr1df6d0ewCnX2xbtpXPy3LMkj-LpBlibPdOB6LXoyIKj-HyIkyTe2YSxu6iiljNgVmtWhAaSjlT2ajoa1rc5BnPVL9eDY1lqPRCuh21749MJ7JsUookuXnDaIFCVBFZ8D3Z/s1600/IMG_0881.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3DtCCD_qKgr1df6d0ewCnX2xbtpXPy3LMkj-LpBlibPdOB6LXoyIKj-HyIkyTe2YSxu6iiljNgVmtWhAaSjlT2ajoa1rc5BnPVL9eDY1lqPRCuh21749MJ7JsUookuXnDaIFCVBFZ8D3Z/s640/IMG_0881.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taoist temples look like Buddhist temples. Maybe they both just look like Chinese temples?</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another misty day in the mountains</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVrUGZ_kPPmrGYG9p6s1wCjAkK7_CQJE_XFvAsKE3BE3Z-C748mWx7-4OOi4fQqJKeDuZX1D3ZBKgGyS5ZOV1iWwrVYc2znXIIVh3OdbzOzbT5V8wv0JcYwbXbdJS1rD5iSTHadkk_4tUJ/s1600/IMG_20180630_142006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVrUGZ_kPPmrGYG9p6s1wCjAkK7_CQJE_XFvAsKE3BE3Z-C748mWx7-4OOi4fQqJKeDuZX1D3ZBKgGyS5ZOV1iWwrVYc2znXIIVh3OdbzOzbT5V8wv0JcYwbXbdJS1rD5iSTHadkk_4tUJ/s640/IMG_20180630_142006.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rare moment: Danger Monkey with zero danger.</td></tr>
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After getting of the mountain and getting a "quick" lunch in a completely empty dining room of a fancy local hotel (sometimes our guides had strange ideas about what we would like and didn't always consult with us first), we drove a short ways to visit the Dujiangyan Irrigation System, a water works project that was constructed roughly 2300 years ago. Michael was highly skeptical based on the description, and was expecting to wander around some rice paddies. It turns out that this was the site where the first Qin emperor BLEW UP A MOUNTAIN AND DIVERTED A RIVER so that it could be used to irrigate the Sichuan basin to feed his army and provide transportation to allow him to invade a now-downstream province, kicking off his conquest of China in earnest. One thing our time in China hammered home was the fractal nature of human history and geography, that the closer you look anywhere and anywhen the more amazing detail you find.<br />
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The main administrative offices had been converted into a tourist attraction, which included the imperial governors gardens which housed a world-class collection of <i>pensai</i><b> </b>trees, from which the Japanese got the word "bonsai". There were, in fact, two trees that dated back to the 13th century, when the practice was beginning to really catch on in Japan.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH1iTWsIgq9iIDlPnrunn27cOy5-yRidSYGuqwxql7Klwpv5mKNuqOVTRscdOx-XevLZ5Wrjg-UlUefJ_WnKw1JUa3WpEHy9oqL0bgHYsZAR1pyFKogtYE8KRZJBaiHCS_guVoFY0aFpJr/s1600/IMG_20180630_163848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH1iTWsIgq9iIDlPnrunn27cOy5-yRidSYGuqwxql7Klwpv5mKNuqOVTRscdOx-XevLZ5Wrjg-UlUefJ_WnKw1JUa3WpEHy9oqL0bgHYsZAR1pyFKogtYE8KRZJBaiHCS_guVoFY0aFpJr/s640/IMG_20180630_163848.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"The Buddha Palm". About half as old as the actual Buddha.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKaTVVuPMSOjFTLMILmJMYUzJJkju4d63lH2SvjglAcjv4ktUtlGbV-z8DZQj-1jo2ujOkHeM13kaB5pr0aEdKHnAv9pmKshc9pYnvTD4z1Oix5lxpZqgOD9DvJ73ZxPELMzVDbsHpcDiL/s1600/IMG_20180630_164828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKaTVVuPMSOjFTLMILmJMYUzJJkju4d63lH2SvjglAcjv4ktUtlGbV-z8DZQj-1jo2ujOkHeM13kaB5pr0aEdKHnAv9pmKshc9pYnvTD4z1Oix5lxpZqgOD9DvJ73ZxPELMzVDbsHpcDiL/s640/IMG_20180630_164828.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This garden is <i>slightly</i> off the main track, and so has zero other tourists</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMRUq_VOcIOkmUhOVfq2eXGz7aluRjbJf-B1O0tqFfzFFQjY3DAU4LQVc-6M3bmS7qvzA8U-3TTE_NiZb_1lxyg1moP7xo9xtMw6vlaoW1hyjwAwbDYnfgk4ySlrP5j_qOyfSr5SjWxQRa/s1600/IMG_20180630_170719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMRUq_VOcIOkmUhOVfq2eXGz7aluRjbJf-B1O0tqFfzFFQjY3DAU4LQVc-6M3bmS7qvzA8U-3TTE_NiZb_1lxyg1moP7xo9xtMw6vlaoW1hyjwAwbDYnfgk4ySlrP5j_qOyfSr5SjWxQRa/s640/IMG_20180630_170719.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "new" branch of the river</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_z3Vk43RqzvPIBSNynsJYePwrZ3bkmpWSRD7MzDO52mgOYiQRTjSeZjBYSAMEETJ4O2L1FSWuW682yM1rMgIW4JJ_h3DeKEeLKOX_elpRsVUo5g_lOHOVUx9ftCZtVtlciS-6R9i2MpuE/s1600/IMG_20180630_172339.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_z3Vk43RqzvPIBSNynsJYePwrZ3bkmpWSRD7MzDO52mgOYiQRTjSeZjBYSAMEETJ4O2L1FSWuW682yM1rMgIW4JJ_h3DeKEeLKOX_elpRsVUo5g_lOHOVUx9ftCZtVtlciS-6R9i2MpuE/s640/IMG_20180630_172339.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The structures on the hillside are old customs houses for the Horse Road that led to Mongolia.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="364" data-original-width="1600" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmnffm5CifBpmlYO4YOJLvN6wH6mRhApFqnMIVNThDLeZyKAoPhbaRPF7i-Hej91wZFucLSQ8ux8zY6vr29962jZDF2Qp48HhnBM6wgYUp9snAqoP7Rz7L235qN-rswejHsRyHxCK7EfWr/s640/PANO_20180630_171911.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The little gap on the right is where they used steam to break the rock apart and create a new channel</td></tr>
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Finally it was time to head back to the airport, scarf our last fast-food dinner, and catch our red-eye flight home.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioUMDtVr97S9P02AOlj4AfJAvIPkksFMKjMhsYR6ynFUjyA_3gO_29eKBNE0NY3RNsvhoiLUcecPDeXBQR17MusqXAeF5hGeGk8wt584-V2ssR3VTn85zwhG3GfRBHRIwHx-7be9_MLssa/s1600/IMG_20180701_022316.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioUMDtVr97S9P02AOlj4AfJAvIPkksFMKjMhsYR6ynFUjyA_3gO_29eKBNE0NY3RNsvhoiLUcecPDeXBQR17MusqXAeF5hGeGk8wt584-V2ssR3VTn85zwhG3GfRBHRIwHx-7be9_MLssa/s640/IMG_20180701_022316.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking the shortcut.</td></tr>
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And that's it for this trip! Thanks for following along!</div>
Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-3499164283011810832018-07-30T07:00:00.000-07:002018-07-30T07:00:08.118-07:00China Trip - FengHuang<br />
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It was a 4 hour drive to our next stop: the old city of FengHuang. On the way we stopped off briefly at a Miao village. "Miao" is a Chinese term for an officially recognized ethnic minority that has bounced all over China since the Qin dynasty, and are actually made up of a variety of independent ethnic groups including the Hmong. In China they are currently concentrated in a number of smaller towns in relatively remote river valleys in the southern part of the country.<br />
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The particular village that we visited had made the mistake of getting listed in a Lonely Planet guidebook a few years back, and now the bamboo slat + mud and cow pie houses had all converted to wood, and some of the wood houses had converted to concrete. They were constructing an enormous theater for traditional drum-and-dance performances for tourists, along with giant parking lots, souvenir stands, and over-priced food and drink stalls. The Miao worshipped the water buffalo (and believe they were descended from them), but there were none to be found anymore. Like all of rural China, the village was suffering a “youth drain” where everyone under age 40 had emigrated to a large coastal city, leaving a village of nothing but senior citizen basket weavers to try to extract tourist dollars. On the drive out of the valley Michael asked the guide about the small shrines on the hills and confirmed that they were graves, which started a conversation about Tomb Sweeping Day, “cultural” buddhism and how a belief system predicated on reincarnation related to ancestor worship, and the various belief systems in China.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWrfpUVEPIiGmHe7yWTYyuSYZvpqfsLOh5Z78Ad50ahT-osg1AZqQTGzMugvnyYL2-79cDsJbsAQpAUdcDZu8Nk8s80vZSW2UVJqo0EDUQgh2SS8Q7KaiSp-ioSuhWZzs9ZQCD-8VUR9H-/s1600/IMG_0703.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWrfpUVEPIiGmHe7yWTYyuSYZvpqfsLOh5Z78Ad50ahT-osg1AZqQTGzMugvnyYL2-79cDsJbsAQpAUdcDZu8Nk8s80vZSW2UVJqo0EDUQgh2SS8Q7KaiSp-ioSuhWZzs9ZQCD-8VUR9H-/s640/IMG_0703.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There was a much easier path just off to the right, but that would be cheating.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2lJkZG_cH8iTd-WY35FDksKR9-1-pdbfgozCGDhFOrDwaXMPgOaQn2cbAvdoq8NontsDUXGD_NT3qQI1K1mJEoBgwYbFDvwvUKyrXVJ8MyHD7E2DAKLTLUxrGSz8-dU14nla-nPI1k4vq/s1600/IMG_0705.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2lJkZG_cH8iTd-WY35FDksKR9-1-pdbfgozCGDhFOrDwaXMPgOaQn2cbAvdoq8NontsDUXGD_NT3qQI1K1mJEoBgwYbFDvwvUKyrXVJ8MyHD7E2DAKLTLUxrGSz8-dU14nla-nPI1k4vq/s640/IMG_0705.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This counts as a handicap accessible walkway in China.</td></tr>
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On the remainder of the drive our guide told us about the history of the FengHuang (Notably it is the location of the “Southern Great Wall”, intended to defend Han-dominated Chinese territory from the Miao and Tujia peoples in the region) and the famous people that had resided in it. He also recounted the entire plot of Hibiscus Story, a movie released in 1986 that he thought accurately conveyed modern China’s relationship with the Cultural Revolution (summarized as "Mistakes were made, but that's all behind us now"), and also a famous novel written by a Shen Congwen, a Chinese author from FengHuang who has been called "China's Faulkner".<br />
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Once we arrived we explored the riverfront, ate some ice cream, and went to bed early. By this point in the trip we were all varying levels of sick, and now that we finally had a few relaxing days in front of us wanted to catch up on our rest.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizS4B0ZgfQm-TcLcojqEJu5GnpdtGq3fP2pfgjUpwXmIM7gAvFRrOLIvGOmtmuY3f8LEbn2r7WqK3WVlOD3EUzYuo8XTnEQpH_qGwgIihsP6Q7diIsZKqVzGbE-uxM171jZnqb-ABSGesl/s1600/IMG_20180626_154121.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizS4B0ZgfQm-TcLcojqEJu5GnpdtGq3fP2pfgjUpwXmIM7gAvFRrOLIvGOmtmuY3f8LEbn2r7WqK3WVlOD3EUzYuo8XTnEQpH_qGwgIihsP6Q7diIsZKqVzGbE-uxM171jZnqb-ABSGesl/s640/IMG_20180626_154121.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A helluva bridge.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMblRhG6Rw-PhdsNo9o3EogKYjXm644Of87b-mEExJ0kR6DzMQevUSbpPRcMPs7ntY48T5smw2GYUTzbrW0CsrINFb3DFpenpJQyrsu0elNC4MMEs6QdP9HFJuGMxueJQtkUOStdekUsJE/s1600/IMG_0713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMblRhG6Rw-PhdsNo9o3EogKYjXm644Of87b-mEExJ0kR6DzMQevUSbpPRcMPs7ntY48T5smw2GYUTzbrW0CsrINFb3DFpenpJQyrsu0elNC4MMEs6QdP9HFJuGMxueJQtkUOStdekUsJE/s640/IMG_0713.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barely visible: Middle Child exploring off in the distance.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvQNYmJVkXD2QRpZSjyxNkZbaxRs_Ru7bDXgrYQWf2DZPXRdNJWfUYVAPpONAfaZyLBijmwinb1rtuWxopxRfoscxOO72bKcKR3kdgfn7bS-W_IWQpoJz0_c9vZ5ouZMLjSx5EBOAHye3Q/s1600/IMG_20180626_155425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvQNYmJVkXD2QRpZSjyxNkZbaxRs_Ru7bDXgrYQWf2DZPXRdNJWfUYVAPpONAfaZyLBijmwinb1rtuWxopxRfoscxOO72bKcKR3kdgfn7bS-W_IWQpoJz0_c9vZ5ouZMLjSx5EBOAHye3Q/s640/IMG_20180626_155425.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ice-cream-and-coffee-shop-with-walls-covered-in-post-it-notes was an entire class of business.</td></tr>
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The next day we “slept in” as much as one can with small children, had a traditional breakfast of bau (steamed buns) and youtiau (fried bread), and went out to see the sights. We wandered into some sites that had basically no interpretive signage in English, took a boat ride down the river, bought some souvenirs, and hiked up through the town and out of the tourist zone.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm0s_YY6wDo11HEFG720XNBmWAwKV9pN0HYDQY6PK2YinEEPgBmy3HZ_QuSMCpdZ0qGAilcv0GiLa1ODgp-eZqHE-JIpyK1vnpltv24PTqBwLywfbZ4yb_W8mI0XF5YkKh0PhuKaD0o17K/s1600/IMG_0711.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm0s_YY6wDo11HEFG720XNBmWAwKV9pN0HYDQY6PK2YinEEPgBmy3HZ_QuSMCpdZ0qGAilcv0GiLa1ODgp-eZqHE-JIpyK1vnpltv24PTqBwLywfbZ4yb_W8mI0XF5YkKh0PhuKaD0o17K/s640/IMG_0711.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now they just need some servants.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSJE6kTHIVlKSn2GOUBqe9bm7pI5vuS8ftWfzv_Xze1aT8txvUOluMm1KkukBRLZ_Lxw5uS5OWwIzD97THlNdFBp2dBl1C5vKHRo2Rn-3sFuLxnn0T94GaVWB02v0-cepTsxVjl2pfpT0T/s1600/IMG_20180628_105741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSJE6kTHIVlKSn2GOUBqe9bm7pI5vuS8ftWfzv_Xze1aT8txvUOluMm1KkukBRLZ_Lxw5uS5OWwIzD97THlNdFBp2dBl1C5vKHRo2Rn-3sFuLxnn0T94GaVWB02v0-cepTsxVjl2pfpT0T/s640/IMG_20180628_105741.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was not the only elevated room with tables and chairs exposed on three sides that we found. The cultural significance is, sadly, a mystery to us.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqUGKy9u9H2r0SPIWfFpjeKE0j1NRRblZEC-x-eceWqQ_vtM5mq0bqY9lFseKdXx_kakN2mlUX_OA9DICfWI8tpX4tadn48c_CkzTHkHI_MIXW_yucWMyq8DjoMx2siMH_KR7k8IV0_x1s/s1600/IMG_20180626_165255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqUGKy9u9H2r0SPIWfFpjeKE0j1NRRblZEC-x-eceWqQ_vtM5mq0bqY9lFseKdXx_kakN2mlUX_OA9DICfWI8tpX4tadn48c_CkzTHkHI_MIXW_yucWMyq8DjoMx2siMH_KR7k8IV0_x1s/s640/IMG_20180626_165255.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Also a helluva bridge, but in a different way.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcEPv1et5ra3SEmxMzN0RdXG2xxyp4cqW2246ji8Vv9eAnHwnqMlfKV4CK8iA7z_-9Sqah3J80nacIreWm-q7_DJtxaWYiRSSx5wj4I0kcWO8p-d-1HZhSBX2PXYE-hhf6-ns6jDWiqPKO/s1600/IMG_20180626_165342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcEPv1et5ra3SEmxMzN0RdXG2xxyp4cqW2246ji8Vv9eAnHwnqMlfKV4CK8iA7z_-9Sqah3J80nacIreWm-q7_DJtxaWYiRSSx5wj4I0kcWO8p-d-1HZhSBX2PXYE-hhf6-ns6jDWiqPKO/s640/IMG_20180626_165342.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FengHuang was very pretty!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9y2S2mQr6GXTQHzI9VQF20qD8H_vtVGmoxG7IJBLvcJWZ39RQGfjoLP2-chj3Hf938fUjrogZaJpXh0JvufGbWCc2kwShjEaNd61J4bZbd8H6oCzY03IaQxdoqtCB0jKgtQo_-NWmxSjG/s1600/IMG_0718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9y2S2mQr6GXTQHzI9VQF20qD8H_vtVGmoxG7IJBLvcJWZ39RQGfjoLP2-chj3Hf938fUjrogZaJpXh0JvufGbWCc2kwShjEaNd61J4bZbd8H6oCzY03IaQxdoqtCB0jKgtQo_-NWmxSjG/s640/IMG_0718.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danger Monkey's other nickname is "Asian Baby'. Here she is demonstrating proper photo etiquette.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0rzl2ew5tc6oRL7NvN2KDMGyH85qwE8rP3yA9hSphbB4niuN6-8sdCUjrB8yTc6fDbXaE09WNe7aurGe6VLF_BJfmzYOzn3SM76yVkTD3ldeb2DXYkfpur6bsyQbPLSn12erfJsp5ymR4/s1600/IMG_0791.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0rzl2ew5tc6oRL7NvN2KDMGyH85qwE8rP3yA9hSphbB4niuN6-8sdCUjrB8yTc6fDbXaE09WNe7aurGe6VLF_BJfmzYOzn3SM76yVkTD3ldeb2DXYkfpur6bsyQbPLSn12erfJsp5ymR4/s640/IMG_0791.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The oldest parts of FengHuang "only" date back to the Ming dynasty, making it a little older than Boston. The median age of buildings is probably a lot older than Boston, though.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinw1JIVDO5ZzEIKKcuvek9_gPDJMV2koTpIMH8hAkECf7bTFJEOAaj3V20LM5mzNh4Gb6FCCnxGv6iAwD-OK_tEF2EmpyDe3nx0mA3tbNz2RX81X97ZAGBManOjEbO7QFGBsJhez1izD2S/s1600/IMG_0818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinw1JIVDO5ZzEIKKcuvek9_gPDJMV2koTpIMH8hAkECf7bTFJEOAaj3V20LM5mzNh4Gb6FCCnxGv6iAwD-OK_tEF2EmpyDe3nx0mA3tbNz2RX81X97ZAGBManOjEbO7QFGBsJhez1izD2S/s640/IMG_0818.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We saw kind of a lot of people washing clothes in springs and creeks.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWDZBaNSp8cmqJbkmL9ganyUcocn1Z3azbYVfhWqzRY7KhAk9FL0UsLFveyXReyDt3DjHGSf7avtQORkDOIDATpg1a_AvC3pA2WNDrRVIzfLRZTx7a4FUoAdD4etEsS9orJuIPpe3Z3Vry/s1600/IMG_0808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWDZBaNSp8cmqJbkmL9ganyUcocn1Z3azbYVfhWqzRY7KhAk9FL0UsLFveyXReyDt3DjHGSf7avtQORkDOIDATpg1a_AvC3pA2WNDrRVIzfLRZTx7a4FUoAdD4etEsS9orJuIPpe3Z3Vry/s640/IMG_0808.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Middle Child frolicking in front of the Wànmíng pagoda.
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On our way back we got lunch at a little restaurant near the river. Like all restaurants in FengHuang it appeared to be deserted (or have a single cook snoozing in a corner), but they were more than happy to cook us delicious food. We never figured out if we were eating at the wrong times, if it was just low season for tourists, or what; but we were always the first people to sit down in a restaurant, and it was rare that anyone else sat down by the time we left.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguI-GUmOLM9rNaOVT7GK4EEXpHT9w3KZukzOHEV7584nj2vIsIe-6hOTjvvk5CsKo8dCQITOnUSnCLAWYMqkpKIgH9LekBDWYmogUneYhMuD_0e303xgpSI6yMEhU7C22TW_AKclT_d1MA/s1600/IMG_0805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguI-GUmOLM9rNaOVT7GK4EEXpHT9w3KZukzOHEV7584nj2vIsIe-6hOTjvvk5CsKo8dCQITOnUSnCLAWYMqkpKIgH9LekBDWYmogUneYhMuD_0e303xgpSI6yMEhU7C22TW_AKclT_d1MA/s640/IMG_0805.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thank goodness for pictures of food on the walls. Sometimes pointing and grunting is best.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicRHvzs3t_tsXFnvDI59l7mhLvuBMuleKdLD7Smi_njSwy_hElHvNqqa5feMlnzI5LNIrXEdbRE1y1tfd_7eVBcwGnPKrQKWymW_CAQzEAfRgkmlQF66zwbvpxt1Fa1omb9Unpjh6hZ97z/s1600/IMG_20180627_131159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicRHvzs3t_tsXFnvDI59l7mhLvuBMuleKdLD7Smi_njSwy_hElHvNqqa5feMlnzI5LNIrXEdbRE1y1tfd_7eVBcwGnPKrQKWymW_CAQzEAfRgkmlQF66zwbvpxt1Fa1omb9Unpjh6hZ97z/s640/IMG_20180627_131159.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trying out the good camera.</td></tr>
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The entire town seemed to come alive from about 8 PM until 10 PM, but still no one ate food. Just more people crowding the walkways and the nightclubs went from zero occupants to about a half-dozen, sitting around individually staring at their phones and nursing beers while house bands played Chinese language covers of Top 40 hits from the 2000’s.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOMi1OyRas-SiagdbhGv7Lav77k6pBl2IrlnOO3U7_dIsuvEsO-SAjEJTYsIYmdJZd2ObbMAqdRXRPOj1_dv9h2FY-9rjr8E0FZV-QO-n3mp1J0z16SgjJxpTHvp3c62MRbXfiH4lfk5m/s1600/IMG_20180627_192505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOMi1OyRas-SiagdbhGv7Lav77k6pBl2IrlnOO3U7_dIsuvEsO-SAjEJTYsIYmdJZd2ObbMAqdRXRPOj1_dv9h2FY-9rjr8E0FZV-QO-n3mp1J0z16SgjJxpTHvp3c62MRbXfiH4lfk5m/s640/IMG_20180627_192505.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The kids were disappointed by the rule "We will not eat dinner in any restaurant with strobe lights."</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrSN1T2jgNQNOutdBQu1XiXSyj9Edi9cucgSnapg1bNeMRUC7uKdD12XjQC_YXuLMRuoTPVDQg_Uz3jknqhg4-34oxCiviXm4IgSHp07rqWhbJZVyg1Hx2wQWQUvE44UvVcYxuVuWTfHY/s1600/IMG_0854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrSN1T2jgNQNOutdBQu1XiXSyj9Edi9cucgSnapg1bNeMRUC7uKdD12XjQC_YXuLMRuoTPVDQg_Uz3jknqhg4-34oxCiviXm4IgSHp07rqWhbJZVyg1Hx2wQWQUvE44UvVcYxuVuWTfHY/s640/IMG_0854.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgdGkPJq-FIOB57m-bPdzTb7KTUwaS0oyai-rHXWJnhlc_4UW8k5CoWQc-I-i8bN9hmnqbNUfAzQYsIcn512D9SPsYLbeAf9uKlBFbTpgi_7lGtM94OpH5KTE6wzty_NoJ6qDByzMrVrif/s1600/IMG_0831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgdGkPJq-FIOB57m-bPdzTb7KTUwaS0oyai-rHXWJnhlc_4UW8k5CoWQc-I-i8bN9hmnqbNUfAzQYsIcn512D9SPsYLbeAf9uKlBFbTpgi_7lGtM94OpH5KTE6wzty_NoJ6qDByzMrVrif/s640/IMG_0831.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU9Zq6fJ1ZjimAw4vkTdoVRyxJOBk0Vfmmozxyz20S8LsNESY4bDHlcci1E3UFyIw2qW_84G1ZlCltNW9Eelv2ymp32Mm4CQiHYvHHLrtwhy2rIWSiPCMxKwPCjC33LRLezyaJ-f1f00Rl/s1600/IMG_0845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU9Zq6fJ1ZjimAw4vkTdoVRyxJOBk0Vfmmozxyz20S8LsNESY4bDHlcci1E3UFyIw2qW_84G1ZlCltNW9Eelv2ymp32Mm4CQiHYvHHLrtwhy2rIWSiPCMxKwPCjC33LRLezyaJ-f1f00Rl/s640/IMG_0845.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Our hostel was similar, in that there were people who nominally worked there, and supposedly a “bar” in the first floor, but it really seemed like the first floor was a hippie flop-house for Chinese millennials. The manager gave Michael a free Budweiser every night, but then crashed out on a couch.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRgAT5YoFFX9iZuAt0aejTw_3bJrnlVueGvnI8Zt6-Ff6wLedvLCEPbnZhhWpbqmITwDjW0kwveEgqzUQFtZffPMaTfS1WWvuB_pL17ae-_MMySqRrWavhM-zq_b44No1_09RciHeOx2eo/s1600/IMG_0847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRgAT5YoFFX9iZuAt0aejTw_3bJrnlVueGvnI8Zt6-Ff6wLedvLCEPbnZhhWpbqmITwDjW0kwveEgqzUQFtZffPMaTfS1WWvuB_pL17ae-_MMySqRrWavhM-zq_b44No1_09RciHeOx2eo/s640/IMG_0847.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Fenghuang was also full of Miao people and handicrafts, and we were offered many opportunities to dress up in traditional local finery and have our picture taken on one of the rickety bridges… for a fee. Middle Child and Danger Monkey both got in the spirit of shouting “Bùyào!” (“Do Not Want!”) at the touts, which made them giggle and chase our children mimicking their undoubtedly terrible accents.<br />
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Overall, FengHuang was very pretty and rustic, and insanely touristy. It was relatively relaxing after the strenuous days in ZhangJiaJie and fun to stretch ourselves in a location with basically zero English affordances, but maybe not a place we would need to go back to.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzEJlnUxmzI0sO3VFCQcyRLeJEqusF1pTxT72QPf9jA0NpkgUCdhUfCb6sdZ23Gatf7ZVErsH7PmO9yxQIjOtftlv4-QUwP6XRDcy2qXXnWulwNpKLTfjiM5vTBwjBGv6toX7CWnLxgMy7/s1600/IMG_0744.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzEJlnUxmzI0sO3VFCQcyRLeJEqusF1pTxT72QPf9jA0NpkgUCdhUfCb6sdZ23Gatf7ZVErsH7PmO9yxQIjOtftlv4-QUwP6XRDcy2qXXnWulwNpKLTfjiM5vTBwjBGv6toX7CWnLxgMy7/s640/IMG_0744.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This shop had a machine that made piping hot fried walnut confections automatically. The State Fair needs this.</td></tr>
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Travel Day - Our final morning in Feng Huang we explored a few more of the sites that our two-day ticket got us access to (or at least, tried to. We visited some temples, but no one asked to see our tickets), and then packed up and took a 2-hour taxi ride to the nearest airport large enough to have daily flights back to Chengdu; where we waited for approximately 6 hours for a delayed flight. The airport was a little larger than the regional train station in Luo Yang, but still pretty tiny.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgMQkLtomC-dsiuUPWBMP521cDQexMq17GyGV9iQCq2tAXHAYSWfg1-H4ONXLfefrxTS5jP10g-kM0hc6Du3l9doG76lnXKxxpgi9KSrs8As_J-ip4BddEJ7XimVKpZT9fsKwyHB_S_cW9/s1600/IMG_20180628_194724.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgMQkLtomC-dsiuUPWBMP521cDQexMq17GyGV9iQCq2tAXHAYSWfg1-H4ONXLfefrxTS5jP10g-kM0hc6Du3l9doG76lnXKxxpgi9KSrs8As_J-ip4BddEJ7XimVKpZT9fsKwyHB_S_cW9/s640/IMG_20180628_194724.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The airport could only handle one plane at a time.</td></tr>
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Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-54505306513166964182018-07-26T07:00:00.000-07:002018-07-26T07:00:07.255-07:00China Trip - ZhangJiaJie<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After our overnight train ride we were picked up at the train station by our guide “David”.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> We were whisked off to h</span>ike the nearby Tianzi mountain in the rain before making the hour-long drive to the ZhangJiaJie national park.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> "Tianzi" translates to "Heaven's Gate", and the most prominent feature of the mountain is an enormous archway hundreds of feet high. We took the </span>cable car up to the top and hiked around (including on a glass-bottomed walkway cantilevered out over a cliff) and then took escalators down to the gate itself, where we were treated to a dense fog with about 20 feet of visibility.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Mike hiked down 1000 steep wet steps, and the rest of the family took the final escalators.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> Tianzi Mountain j</span>oins the Great Wall on our list of “amazing Chinese heritage sights that we visited but didn't see."<br />
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<span class="Apple-converted-space"><br /></span></div>
<div class="p1">
The next day we visited the stone forest, the reason this remote location was on our itinerary at all.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> This region s</span>erved
as the inspiration and visual reference for the floating islands in
Avatar (which we were reminded of by every souvenir stall). It was a
sandstone ocean floor raised up by plate tectonics approximately 380 million years ago, and subsequently carved by rivers
into a forest of enormous rock spires.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It looked like the Needles in South Dakota, but at the scale of Monument Valley.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> We t</span>ook the glass elevator up to the top and hiked around the rim of the most impressive region.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Many great views, many monkeys.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTALTO3HPTOuw4h9Q_-xu00UWgdbuNY0Dt-tiVwMUOJwo_Qktyd4-P96K04icfS3Z51kQjczGRCL1S2dfwHeP7X97ozYOhUirRZhaKOEtGYmZzUrODyyKJBrJp2UE7jiR3oKu7caa8a5B/s1600/IMG_0431.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTALTO3HPTOuw4h9Q_-xu00UWgdbuNY0Dt-tiVwMUOJwo_Qktyd4-P96K04icfS3Z51kQjczGRCL1S2dfwHeP7X97ozYOhUirRZhaKOEtGYmZzUrODyyKJBrJp2UE7jiR3oKu7caa8a5B/s640/IMG_0431.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A popular destination for domestic tourism.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmZIyzu0Hx5J9mUOBUA2NHUjqiwuiF8_ULh9GCUIUf618lBi89BS-D-FFccisVAnKaQqCtuNhcPHZhNjK-52MgAA5IVj1vhSzExz8Vml2bXWPL8ikR0myFYwR08bnJbzufAOs0F7NIPqAt/s1600/IMG_0428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmZIyzu0Hx5J9mUOBUA2NHUjqiwuiF8_ULh9GCUIUf618lBi89BS-D-FFccisVAnKaQqCtuNhcPHZhNjK-52MgAA5IVj1vhSzExz8Vml2bXWPL8ikR0myFYwR08bnJbzufAOs0F7NIPqAt/s640/IMG_0428.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Such scenery.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg96OESl9rqgMNNy2HMml5jM5eX-fImxpBPuybY4u0hZL-9VT2yySfgxGi4ljszS7WBNoONMu8oj9pKdzML4wbKEq6Yv4p199jEuozQnCcBzdmsGhGBocU55uSJl5a9jiyJQ4sj6GmvoKsR/s1600/IMG_0435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg96OESl9rqgMNNy2HMml5jM5eX-fImxpBPuybY4u0hZL-9VT2yySfgxGi4ljszS7WBNoONMu8oj9pKdzML4wbKEq6Yv4p199jEuozQnCcBzdmsGhGBocU55uSJl5a9jiyJQ4sj6GmvoKsR/s640/IMG_0435.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Much spire.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3niydbjk_8hM1jMN6fFSwmsWCXWQA2Faw_s2u77bo1czB-EviyCvGGiQ5gmI5dZnrJfZexb0IbTK0lRhpigS5Hgs-9w8AM7p41e3ckaDPMRx7p8Lr-R1Zl5y8Pbc35OvMF6-TqakXxf7K/s1600/IMG_0454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3niydbjk_8hM1jMN6fFSwmsWCXWQA2Faw_s2u77bo1czB-EviyCvGGiQ5gmI5dZnrJfZexb0IbTK0lRhpigS5Hgs-9w8AM7p41e3ckaDPMRx7p8Lr-R1Zl5y8Pbc35OvMF6-TqakXxf7K/s640/IMG_0454.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We occasionally snuck off the main tourist routes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo8ISzErrXULr5ZQ99r7q5uHdgPoP0loMXi03EFA9Zyj_B1PV2__hGH6mI7fXkaeb72zy-_y26DijGVqYv9vmukX8jn6hbym7N_Z-BirTzQ4DbD7YnferLbWudOr4n2uBCMLgKWne2dMBA/s1600/IMG_0467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo8ISzErrXULr5ZQ99r7q5uHdgPoP0loMXi03EFA9Zyj_B1PV2__hGH6mI7fXkaeb72zy-_y26DijGVqYv9vmukX8jn6hbym7N_Z-BirTzQ4DbD7YnferLbWudOr4n2uBCMLgKWne2dMBA/s640/IMG_0467.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The postcard shot. Though it does not capture the way the wispy low clouds flowed around and through the rock formations.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8hbwO7wxyoLj5mMUlFcX8A9AjN4e2_kJdW2eSbaoinypapZP4huM8RGVh5u8b4hEXWF9FJiDpn8D4BUr76YSAJg4P-rt3VDLIbsdFPaaaedIulq7P3bLoR8N84AIw4M1Fb8oA1ioV4nti/s1600/IMG_0491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8hbwO7wxyoLj5mMUlFcX8A9AjN4e2_kJdW2eSbaoinypapZP4huM8RGVh5u8b4hEXWF9FJiDpn8D4BUr76YSAJg4P-rt3VDLIbsdFPaaaedIulq7P3bLoR8N84AIw4M1Fb8oA1ioV4nti/s640/IMG_0491.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were more people taking pictures of monkeys fighting over stolen bags of food than of the scenery.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFdgG1HejfNrMFonDcFJdnuxSmoDltk_eyKA5Z2LQb_AGFPccD511ULrEWxh3PkOfbbfj7d1cnjEDcPaWf__UllbZA1j42OKXPfkLSJ9_pvyIy2tqrEQoXnYsT8jk9npERwIvB6KZG9RGw/s1600/IMG_0502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFdgG1HejfNrMFonDcFJdnuxSmoDltk_eyKA5Z2LQb_AGFPccD511ULrEWxh3PkOfbbfj7d1cnjEDcPaWf__UllbZA1j42OKXPfkLSJ9_pvyIy2tqrEQoXnYsT8jk9npERwIvB6KZG9RGw/s640/IMG_0502.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fambly!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVT991_mqLJFrslEhYoKMRwNeimB4LlheDvaQtP_86-I7OXIpDIMhukhjaBHQOd5TegQj49oTqBzQRk-ut_dM8l96O2FUYLswxZ4i_Vyr96IakOpbXuZRMSLz2SRV3AMRVRRhIbjeCfwt7/s1600/IMG_0509.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVT991_mqLJFrslEhYoKMRwNeimB4LlheDvaQtP_86-I7OXIpDIMhukhjaBHQOd5TegQj49oTqBzQRk-ut_dM8l96O2FUYLswxZ4i_Vyr96IakOpbXuZRMSLz2SRV3AMRVRRhIbjeCfwt7/s640/IMG_0509.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The height was hard to capture.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9HtukAnaPkiCeUqPnCUxhnLaR2SoBda1aSBcDBcPFcJT0Gq2bfT8rcMvf6Uue21YGMc0uYlZ4hwCQINOmPTWhx9z-74vl912Pc36B8pc87OK5A9J71vWxKzDkHp760cEm_W4Z2E8PBygp/s1600/IMG_0564.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9HtukAnaPkiCeUqPnCUxhnLaR2SoBda1aSBcDBcPFcJT0Gq2bfT8rcMvf6Uue21YGMc0uYlZ4hwCQINOmPTWhx9z-74vl912Pc36B8pc87OK5A9J71vWxKzDkHp760cEm_W4Z2E8PBygp/s640/IMG_0564.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eventually the sun came out!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHRWR6puxbRhqORePIQSkMdkxinjCxzszyr1oKAPiI1dMocbs4P86-frdJvrNPX1_m8sQR2hL8Uv-BDOyJSstmEXeB8jyrmPBuAkU6KFONuRM0xnJq2rgXIYr2LGzeGHdMDeKx_cgueLpY/s1600/IMG_20180624_133018.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHRWR6puxbRhqORePIQSkMdkxinjCxzszyr1oKAPiI1dMocbs4P86-frdJvrNPX1_m8sQR2hL8Uv-BDOyJSstmEXeB8jyrmPBuAkU6KFONuRM0xnJq2rgXIYr2LGzeGHdMDeKx_cgueLpY/s640/IMG_20180624_133018.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There is a McDonalds at the top of a mountain. Not gonna lie, we totally ate lunch here and I have no regrets.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-GrtpQxva8JLU8OG_jnZA2bRHlLz4xhhn651DPwOOvCr4i3QHlyiCvT9SK_qXbWHOKCWlSMbnV1p2mGXqVW5hjYaVnIysEeiA1gcPvsPAzc1hjgY4OdStB44S6amAQAWfwKy34pWXh7Un/s1600/IMG_0571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-GrtpQxva8JLU8OG_jnZA2bRHlLz4xhhn651DPwOOvCr4i3QHlyiCvT9SK_qXbWHOKCWlSMbnV1p2mGXqVW5hjYaVnIysEeiA1gcPvsPAzc1hjgY4OdStB44S6amAQAWfwKy34pWXh7Un/s640/IMG_0571.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div class="p1">
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<div class="p1">
The national park
was create in the 1980's as Wulingyuan Scenic Area, and the entire area
was renamed to ZhangJiaJie in 1992 after a small town located within the
park boundaries, which was itself named after <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zhang_Liang_(Western_Han)" target="_blank">Zhang Liang</a>,
a hero of the founding of the Western Han dynasty who settled there
later in his life. There has been a little unrest as they’ve evicted
farmers from within the national park which occasionally escalated to
the military being called in.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> On one winding drive we h</span>ad a conversation with our tour guide about relative national approaches to the idea of “eminent domain”. </div>
<br />
On
day 3 we drove to another part of the park to walk across a "Glass
Bridge" that spans a large valley in the park. At 300 meters high the
ground below was so far away as to not necessarily be recognizable as
riverbed and forest. On the far side we hiked down many hundreds of
stairs, through caves (including a bandit cave that had been populated by “noble” bandits ala Robin Hood and his merry men) and followed the river bottom to a dock where we took a boat back
to the trailhead. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGWaG5Qdcz7JPq7vDNmaO17WQ1z_hYD3b5fH1EwmSrGoWuid7Oh0gyneJTpwlxcNeBC31ygkRs6NYYrmC9tQUEve0vvtFHWFYosRFyLvMCPBBh5ARSOoV1JFerDdIp2p5OvGgEtFGEVIZw/s1600/IMG_20180625_094511.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGWaG5Qdcz7JPq7vDNmaO17WQ1z_hYD3b5fH1EwmSrGoWuid7Oh0gyneJTpwlxcNeBC31ygkRs6NYYrmC9tQUEve0vvtFHWFYosRFyLvMCPBBh5ARSOoV1JFerDdIp2p5OvGgEtFGEVIZw/s640/IMG_20180625_094511.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A big valley needs a big bridge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYMPQGVBQjDwq5BC6dgWdyTgHwx9GWU5nWdxV-GHSk7b-S5A2kNtghpeaoL2Hpni6xgv74IHNIhaOBQ77tvFsrE2KLqGCoZfxWtstmxr_dz6nNj9P_eH0YXsxsY5114MpHyjzQQfEYaGtp/s1600/IMG_20180625_095847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYMPQGVBQjDwq5BC6dgWdyTgHwx9GWU5nWdxV-GHSk7b-S5A2kNtghpeaoL2Hpni6xgv74IHNIhaOBQ77tvFsrE2KLqGCoZfxWtstmxr_dz6nNj9P_eH0YXsxsY5114MpHyjzQQfEYaGtp/s640/IMG_20180625_095847.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">AAAAH! These cloth booties are the best!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU3CNnTVHCuRxiersNviJM_BZT-iOHMBthbf41EowO2AAqduQBx_VO4r7S3UBwOHzIOjEnWgmb4Mb4A1fDY17-3jMl5cZs5pHHBedmXqAopAFGGzrHPrFzP0ual8pPtymcNVt1omjux3fJ/s1600/IMG_20180625_100927.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU3CNnTVHCuRxiersNviJM_BZT-iOHMBthbf41EowO2AAqduQBx_VO4r7S3UBwOHzIOjEnWgmb4Mb4A1fDY17-3jMl5cZs5pHHBedmXqAopAFGGzrHPrFzP0ual8pPtymcNVt1omjux3fJ/s640/IMG_20180625_100927.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Safety Last!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0IZPg8zLbYbb9szLVjOhyphenhyphen2L2XL6PqMkzqR7lkAndoEIR9YLtIg6CzlxjQ5Z-1Dzx-n9n-gsbltiZPcWk8MA-pnSOgjOGDSADyboU-JizglkdBewzdKV1cDgO4vP7e3eoqfInW0hsKpZZT/s1600/IMG_20180625_101234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0IZPg8zLbYbb9szLVjOhyphenhyphen2L2XL6PqMkzqR7lkAndoEIR9YLtIg6CzlxjQ5Z-1Dzx-n9n-gsbltiZPcWk8MA-pnSOgjOGDSADyboU-JizglkdBewzdKV1cDgO4vP7e3eoqfInW0hsKpZZT/s640/IMG_20180625_101234.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">China is made of staircases.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlzf2mdKunsba-tjzAb8Y_X0lUtYDv5MdXVn5eCX9uXCnJGxAouXNBgLTtKgZ0o0XC1IH5PgVU95sS2vmevIiWhq5XMwG-IwKSSm1qSUuWkXhIam7WkFSQ_5sMIAHJeQslmN7F04G77H9M/s1600/IMG_20180625_103623.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlzf2mdKunsba-tjzAb8Y_X0lUtYDv5MdXVn5eCX9uXCnJGxAouXNBgLTtKgZ0o0XC1IH5PgVU95sS2vmevIiWhq5XMwG-IwKSSm1qSUuWkXhIam7WkFSQ_5sMIAHJeQslmN7F04G77H9M/s640/IMG_20180625_103623.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This picture was taken as an excuse to rest Michael's wobbly legs.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFoMGbDz21ucVVsAvL7XHudpkcGrecRkGFlK8NedCGpB52XQXFDgFfl1KQox90iyPwmlLa3LU4Yq-DmQl-gu1FopshAySyvBr-koV5ylUU7ooR7y9sDTeUrImr3VpJTY6O4SzRf5ba4teG/s1600/IMG_20180625_112423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFoMGbDz21ucVVsAvL7XHudpkcGrecRkGFlK8NedCGpB52XQXFDgFfl1KQox90iyPwmlLa3LU4Yq-DmQl-gu1FopshAySyvBr-koV5ylUU7ooR7y9sDTeUrImr3VpJTY6O4SzRf5ba4teG/s640/IMG_20180625_112423.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An actual "living wall" that every office building in Singapore tries to emulate.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZrI-M8K2HWaCUDHOWMBY3o3OutCmZJC5Fgs_MEWmizJlcmE1QNsdkp2iOp5sgqL3NgYEjOeDQ7i69cFj4vX2F3CP4HWAWRAaOTJ80ohaheWv7Wf8oMainXqQ9NeOChphEaZtZIs0vxY4M/s1600/IMG_20180625_115622.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZrI-M8K2HWaCUDHOWMBY3o3OutCmZJC5Fgs_MEWmizJlcmE1QNsdkp2iOp5sgqL3NgYEjOeDQ7i69cFj4vX2F3CP4HWAWRAaOTJ80ohaheWv7Wf8oMainXqQ9NeOChphEaZtZIs0vxY4M/s640/IMG_20180625_115622.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"How to freak out your tour guide in one easy step!"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr-jfAPkzM6aVyKY2Hc535B_Fm7HKfp3ja0tLEcU4FIc9EdPPEvo-i1D7W8zs7YXPr9RcrdxzFQjAt1uzbd1FlZK4k2gwNenaYXGJFMx0XHyn6BE7tKfDJP69MoV6QDf2YYOwzVEe-jh_G/s1600/IMG_20180625_121052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr-jfAPkzM6aVyKY2Hc535B_Fm7HKfp3ja0tLEcU4FIc9EdPPEvo-i1D7W8zs7YXPr9RcrdxzFQjAt1uzbd1FlZK4k2gwNenaYXGJFMx0XHyn6BE7tKfDJP69MoV6QDf2YYOwzVEe-jh_G/s640/IMG_20180625_121052.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maxwell rides again!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfPTjlBuKx9oLLsEUxt0vtQOSi4JOj1SLTt7Iunfyj1RODWOU_7h2oPYxmPM2IbUa8oscVRLCbJVwY2-hv7eWKRPJuzFvR-Sj9ahKH8AQoDsH3ARefniDanbn9kQQ7f4w3WhY4Mjt3M_Az/s1600/IMG_20180625_124956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfPTjlBuKx9oLLsEUxt0vtQOSi4JOj1SLTt7Iunfyj1RODWOU_7h2oPYxmPM2IbUa8oscVRLCbJVwY2-hv7eWKRPJuzFvR-Sj9ahKH8AQoDsH3ARefniDanbn9kQQ7f4w3WhY4Mjt3M_Az/s640/IMG_20180625_124956.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Surprise Boat Ride. This one even had life jackets.</td></tr>
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<br />
We wrapped up with a hike through the canyons at the
foot of the stone forest, and saw the area from a different
perspective.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> We also saw </span>baby monkeys, and stumbled across the tomb of Zhang Liang where a bunch of kids were playing in the river.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3lbeLHm2B3ccpqneJvLAMTwEWEk32mUXKP7c6U9iW7nSCbUvsWA2WbRc6P3gfAVDOfF7qHQY7az9mckXNkPA4R33nLSjBxLuIh5B-92rnq2CdvyxUaLgfk9NBEEklkVLJadSeVdfcroWu/s1600/IMG_0613.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3lbeLHm2B3ccpqneJvLAMTwEWEk32mUXKP7c6U9iW7nSCbUvsWA2WbRc6P3gfAVDOfF7qHQY7az9mckXNkPA4R33nLSjBxLuIh5B-92rnq2CdvyxUaLgfk9NBEEklkVLJadSeVdfcroWu/s640/IMG_0613.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally far enough upstream that the water is clear and refreshing!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKUWzcwmd2ee7-IfNWLhjB7ISfnMuC6zjGm6gz8__iLRzUU-dtgIFzHZCPE3XUnwoll0nBCn_1NFQpouwMCji7TpW99diAem0dDUnoX18_EUpCIypqkN_iwot_-y7fG4nhwmcEZsNFW3Z/s1600/IMG_0615.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKUWzcwmd2ee7-IfNWLhjB7ISfnMuC6zjGm6gz8__iLRzUU-dtgIFzHZCPE3XUnwoll0nBCn_1NFQpouwMCji7TpW99diAem0dDUnoX18_EUpCIypqkN_iwot_-y7fG4nhwmcEZsNFW3Z/s640/IMG_0615.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elizabeth WINS!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMn1bbgfmDEHgmKpNrXhL5M586DkuQypvsxW47OyOr-c7qbubc4zkG1W-d6AF-XvNK4Ew9lWchXnwCuKMFfUiqeobpvA1avoU9pzSOEpnKukxIlRWkarS0IHaZIcVudVeFwJqTtsYibYe/s1600/IMG_0619.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMn1bbgfmDEHgmKpNrXhL5M586DkuQypvsxW47OyOr-c7qbubc4zkG1W-d6AF-XvNK4Ew9lWchXnwCuKMFfUiqeobpvA1avoU9pzSOEpnKukxIlRWkarS0IHaZIcVudVeFwJqTtsYibYe/s640/IMG_0619.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This picture needs a pterodactyl to be complete.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqUnSeje0EQQEE9l0-l6pP384v7mCiLvuF61g6ksqi01guCdL4dZoHxfI6aKAKZCHnDH1-p_MUcHqOgj7zf9ykRISXX5wb6SAN22TA4eEMIMr-N-qtr65fgq16oYKPoJ4mG8x_u3o0Q0Mi/s1600/IMG_0640.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqUnSeje0EQQEE9l0-l6pP384v7mCiLvuF61g6ksqi01guCdL4dZoHxfI6aKAKZCHnDH1-p_MUcHqOgj7zf9ykRISXX5wb6SAN22TA4eEMIMr-N-qtr65fgq16oYKPoJ4mG8x_u3o0Q0Mi/s640/IMG_0640.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baby monkeys are super bad at being monkeys.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnLL4KUY-MnwJPuFG05crQucNhE9sUDNdHOlakdExfjorKyWIpf2d2liotNTT3aOZYgAEly0EA3wHYF2HzvdUG14FqiY8OiEJlDytJLT32gyZBe0I46KwZptXnx0us9qO7SqyOIJXIJSFu/s1600/IMG_0683.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnLL4KUY-MnwJPuFG05crQucNhE9sUDNdHOlakdExfjorKyWIpf2d2liotNTT3aOZYgAEly0EA3wHYF2HzvdUG14FqiY8OiEJlDytJLT32gyZBe0I46KwZptXnx0us9qO7SqyOIJXIJSFu/s640/IMG_0683.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another postcard shot.</td></tr>
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The next day was a travel day, off to the old city of FengHuang!</div>
<br />Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-83232277673301149032018-07-23T07:00:00.000-07:002018-07-23T07:00:04.040-07:00China Trip - LuoyangThis is part 3 of our Western China trip.<br />
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After a 2-hour high-speed train followed by a very roundabout taxi ride to our hole-in-the-wall hostel, we went exploring for lunch. Our experience in back-alley markets from Chengdu came in handy, and we ended up eating dumplings for lunch in a wee shop. We were staying off the tourist path, and eating even further off the main strip (as much as Luoyang can be said to have a "main strip"). Our presence seemed to have disturbed a delicate ecosystem of noodle shops and regular customers, in that we basically had to wait for the owner/cook/server to whip up noodle soups for all of the locals taking their lunch breaks before he could take our order for dumplings. Middle Child and Michael went exploring the fruit market and making friends with the feral kittens while we waited.<br />
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After lunch we crossed our fingers, dodged traffic across a busy street, and hopped on a city bus we hoped would take us the 7 KM down the main drag to the primary tourist attraction of Luoyang, the Longmen Grottoes. And it did! Score!<br />
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Luoyang was the imperial capital when Buddhism (and Kung Fu!) entered China from India, so Luoyang is where they started carving giant Buddhas into the cliff faces. Ranging in size between one centimeter to 10 meters tall, this was an impressive site that had been worked by hand for hundreds of years. At the beginning of the site we met a friendly Chinese couple who asked if they could walk with us, and spent the entire afternoon strolling around and chatting.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKcoVbu2I3lp5VFxB9qP1q4rDA5k6iz7JuTNdy2HW3lchUsCZv9HeVx81VmS24o9Tdg23PIAkyYXKjVn97NE2I0aF29RNekU9bXv8yarWz4Jvglk0RzXbFXzaBM9NczjvbIKXbMftz8DPI/s1600/IMG_0223.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKcoVbu2I3lp5VFxB9qP1q4rDA5k6iz7JuTNdy2HW3lchUsCZv9HeVx81VmS24o9Tdg23PIAkyYXKjVn97NE2I0aF29RNekU9bXv8yarWz4Jvglk0RzXbFXzaBM9NczjvbIKXbMftz8DPI/s640/IMG_0223.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So many Buddhas. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwTrJOE5MseRAyBu_y76ldSbvZBcGUkW92_QQehk-n-_YsC7lwkxk20_Hew0iPd_jN_GIE5HfyKqUQULHexJ1z2W8b7lRvo3xKHmzdkugmZZBWKfI38HapvlBHvfwJwvO6hxj2I-jOdsNT/s1600/IMG_0225.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwTrJOE5MseRAyBu_y76ldSbvZBcGUkW92_QQehk-n-_YsC7lwkxk20_Hew0iPd_jN_GIE5HfyKqUQULHexJ1z2W8b7lRvo3xKHmzdkugmZZBWKfI38HapvlBHvfwJwvO6hxj2I-jOdsNT/s640/IMG_0225.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not quite enlightened yet.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0kv8J8Nmlggi1wHYuf8ajoxzNMBpu2Ux9b8IXK98whHY2hm2fELcsZBpAEaPU2PvsMFidceeY85DJDW1Zagj8vBPVV4bjnpePuXmpjrSrWfygm2-EOENH-5vO8cQKE96uWBz7JDPok1m0/s640/IMG_0243.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our children are masters at making friends.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0kv8J8Nmlggi1wHYuf8ajoxzNMBpu2Ux9b8IXK98whHY2hm2fELcsZBpAEaPU2PvsMFidceeY85DJDW1Zagj8vBPVV4bjnpePuXmpjrSrWfygm2-EOENH-5vO8cQKE96uWBz7JDPok1m0/s1600/IMG_0243.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0kv8J8Nmlggi1wHYuf8ajoxzNMBpu2Ux9b8IXK98whHY2hm2fELcsZBpAEaPU2PvsMFidceeY85DJDW1Zagj8vBPVV4bjnpePuXmpjrSrWfygm2-EOENH-5vO8cQKE96uWBz7JDPok1m0/s1600/IMG_0243.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> <br />
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Across the river, we stumbled upon Chiang Kai-Shek’s villa where he held the meeting (under the pretense of a birthday party) that would launch the offensive that triggered the Long March and solidified Mao’s leadership of the Chinese communists. It was all well preserved 1930’s decor, in stark contrast to the rest of the temple complex it was housed in.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_UW5z_DJVHx89itko0zGWIgDB1nOepq9dJ5gUhzt1Ghln_xG8OTrWVm-5Is4sLRSJ93_orDqoB6oyzk8TJQUdBP6TYBvvFsG9BtkoSuH3DZu0HMBjcVPtPHEkCe2mfrSo4d0evxtbPwA_/s1600/IMG_0260.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_UW5z_DJVHx89itko0zGWIgDB1nOepq9dJ5gUhzt1Ghln_xG8OTrWVm-5Is4sLRSJ93_orDqoB6oyzk8TJQUdBP6TYBvvFsG9BtkoSuH3DZu0HMBjcVPtPHEkCe2mfrSo4d0evxtbPwA_/s640/IMG_0260.JPG" width="640" /></a> <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgm9_4B9RRSoaXwm1RWnONonesrS1Tvz8rTfp7LkrLlVr4u_FxAKIidQ_6CIzb1x-2clvauGH5dK_NXw5O5lrhi3Ff-0LhXzc8GA5MnAuDpLjn9XwQfq5OROS6Ao1fYsKmOR5nzRmjliBD/s1600/IMG_0265.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgm9_4B9RRSoaXwm1RWnONonesrS1Tvz8rTfp7LkrLlVr4u_FxAKIidQ_6CIzb1x-2clvauGH5dK_NXw5O5lrhi3Ff-0LhXzc8GA5MnAuDpLjn9XwQfq5OROS6Ao1fYsKmOR5nzRmjliBD/s640/IMG_0265.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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We stayed until the grottoes closed, and wandered for a bit trying to figure out how to get fed and back to our hostel, when we spied the correct bus coming down the street. We flagged it and hopped on. Since we knew food was scarce near our hostel, we took a gamble and disembarked at a likely-looking street corner. There we wandered into a friendly-looking restaurant and pointed at pictures to order too much food. So good! (the highlight was tofu pillows in mysterious yellow garlic sauce) So cheap! So many cartoons and free lollipops for the kids!<br />
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The next day we visited the Shaolin Monastery. About an hour from Luoyang (the closest town was Dengfeng, which at a mere 0.6 million population was described by our tour guide as “tiny”), and passed by a number of “Ghost Cities” - enormous housing projects build speculatively that currently sit empty (remember that construction we mentioned last time? It turns out that if the skyscrapers are too far from public transit, nobody can afford to live in them).<br />
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The Shaolin temple (The name literally means “Temple in the bamboo forest (Lin) on the Shao mountain) is the birthplace of Kung Fu and Wushu, but also the first Zen Buddhist temple in China, but <b>also</b> an important imperial temple that played a part in choosing the emperor’s successor. The abbott of the Shaolin Temple is akin to the ArchBishop of a large area… about as much power and influence as a provincial governor. Families used to give their sons to the temple to be raised as monks and learn Kung Fu, but since modern families have fewer boys to spare for a life of poverty and dedication the temple has taken to adopting young boys from orphanages (there are between 200 and 300 monks residing at the temple now).<br />
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Families do still want their sons to learn kung fu, so the temple grounds are also home to a number of martial arts academies that teaching many hundreds of students (mostly boys). Students typically live at the academy for 4-7 years training in kung fu and wushu for 6 hours each day, and can also choose to specialize in police combat, western boxing, tae kwon do, or movie stunt fighting.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6lrOLq5iBuzKTZRh4FJWs5Mi7PKFRO_rNrfKEmJSywNfcQLnUp-TQPX6V2UDei6pO58BY7ePBFWTXAfOoS_JE5yE3IOEQwkd9f8c-O4aNEZ26dnAnQU9rwV8wobnk59Z9kuF7WjNUiz15/s1600/IMG_0300.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6lrOLq5iBuzKTZRh4FJWs5Mi7PKFRO_rNrfKEmJSywNfcQLnUp-TQPX6V2UDei6pO58BY7ePBFWTXAfOoS_JE5yE3IOEQwkd9f8c-O4aNEZ26dnAnQU9rwV8wobnk59Z9kuF7WjNUiz15/s640/IMG_0300.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tree in the back is filled with finger-sized holes from martial arts practice</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSp4uADt0R9a7KA-5kyO94LZ7i6xMRlxrQ4ZseasZ7g9xFI4l042hEDI8fyuS0sBN7Lk8UfE6T_WN-rBi9ic3-OecXjtpJv-DqP8loC0cxVhR4gk6xVAtQdNIQ-o7DuqsN-Jt5u9c_eFs5/s1600/IMG_0288.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSp4uADt0R9a7KA-5kyO94LZ7i6xMRlxrQ4ZseasZ7g9xFI4l042hEDI8fyuS0sBN7Lk8UfE6T_WN-rBi9ic3-OecXjtpJv-DqP8loC0cxVhR4gk6xVAtQdNIQ-o7DuqsN-Jt5u9c_eFs5/s640/IMG_0288.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SHAOLIN MAGIC!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhidcfSWaOiXeELpd04x7c0Im1O2EV3_jBqMLnmBbfhGDKcr9DdA31N4QuKv1xMQocDIPfrqvKZqpT74RxLkANAkaXb8FdiSXCwZKVuGbr_5KCa4CmYg88XVKxyTS0WQYk-YYBmvJ5fHkfZ/s1600/IMG_0297.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhidcfSWaOiXeELpd04x7c0Im1O2EV3_jBqMLnmBbfhGDKcr9DdA31N4QuKv1xMQocDIPfrqvKZqpT74RxLkANAkaXb8FdiSXCwZKVuGbr_5KCa4CmYg88XVKxyTS0WQYk-YYBmvJ5fHkfZ/s640/IMG_0297.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are probably worse lives than being a ward of the Shaolin Temple.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbV81QClM6w3NnmWEklXOvD1nrGEMv-ZCcIj0XGc-vnkP0MPan9izd48Wr9S4GpWl0Jf5hFEb1Lohg1Wikj-hi2TA4rGMqcKGjeJUjGHqKHULUllSCclPbLxA-bLuQCWhMrC-WdMhI1wxA/s1600/IMG_0309.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbV81QClM6w3NnmWEklXOvD1nrGEMv-ZCcIj0XGc-vnkP0MPan9izd48Wr9S4GpWl0Jf5hFEb1Lohg1Wikj-hi2TA4rGMqcKGjeJUjGHqKHULUllSCclPbLxA-bLuQCWhMrC-WdMhI1wxA/s640/IMG_0309.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The oldest remaining structure in the Shaolin temple. Buildings in China seem to have a tradition of being alternately burned down and rebuilt by successive generations of warlords.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYU4x9kRPyZg1gb49Li5c6L_SSchpy0WGBYKZ9o67y56KjvAaTHqBh3CwPAhhlcONInJwD8GiTfugETChlrV0XwcOihzTrJLbc4wmEPuFKDBe7UPKIj3-MjUd3Nd6u5MoOAoNxmN2UJZOM/s1600/IMG_20180622_162403.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYU4x9kRPyZg1gb49Li5c6L_SSchpy0WGBYKZ9o67y56KjvAaTHqBh3CwPAhhlcONInJwD8GiTfugETChlrV0XwcOihzTrJLbc4wmEPuFKDBe7UPKIj3-MjUd3Nd6u5MoOAoNxmN2UJZOM/s640/IMG_20180622_162403.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All that's missing is a super-villain's fortress.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUFHWkdxpo_m3j3zMeC3muws9yOTP9ept19ItKiF9whyRFG5U3N7PPXL9nACt89ZU2RGuS0957K3sM1ujxh-2AE6ToAAlZ0NiKFlm9KZGjD6CIYyiTelUUEUosqlVx22uWpYeaYo4w5OSc/s1600/IMG_0323.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUFHWkdxpo_m3j3zMeC3muws9yOTP9ept19ItKiF9whyRFG5U3N7PPXL9nACt89ZU2RGuS0957K3sM1ujxh-2AE6ToAAlZ0NiKFlm9KZGjD6CIYyiTelUUEUosqlVx22uWpYeaYo4w5OSc/s640/IMG_0323.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pagoda forest - resting place of Shaolin luminaries.</td></tr>
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After strolling through the temple complex itself we took a cable car up to the peak of the Shao mountain, and were treated to stunning views of forested mountains and limestone cliffs.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4r_-r-Sli9UPdKujMaYxGz-HJkQAubezD2qFfIs2A00_90HWIPfFUMNtziLyMCqOOVej3i7t9IzeooCpgxZQc_Qx7E1EqlV_KlMRyalQmy1R5q1N9nuvtRnVJDRBqrmrRCvopiuZtmlMX/s1600/IMG_0331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4r_-r-Sli9UPdKujMaYxGz-HJkQAubezD2qFfIs2A00_90HWIPfFUMNtziLyMCqOOVej3i7t9IzeooCpgxZQc_Qx7E1EqlV_KlMRyalQmy1R5q1N9nuvtRnVJDRBqrmrRCvopiuZtmlMX/s640/IMG_0331.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We cannot resist a good cable car.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQom1Ys0084qea9YsB13j-tKLKhIEUxhQDzY6NenYeU39dZAEoMjXoCetQNg2zEhqkkkji0agMy8z-_h8QFZgOtWkmg_TRY-M1wxzibkYbW2lFiuaeJhTvyqDhycrpF_Pdgh4RenDq0UuG/s1600/IMG_0338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQom1Ys0084qea9YsB13j-tKLKhIEUxhQDzY6NenYeU39dZAEoMjXoCetQNg2zEhqkkkji0agMy8z-_h8QFZgOtWkmg_TRY-M1wxzibkYbW2lFiuaeJhTvyqDhycrpF_Pdgh4RenDq0UuG/s640/IMG_0338.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This trinket stand on the top of a mountain has a CNC milling robot.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkkpEdCaMJQiVGPESey2_mbxckQaPD_vwLr6LUnFrcOgmLk6cKizK2_QReIc355-nOY3hqeCfUIwrsdxwyNTy_kPUtJ9nC3gsZqadNNptzegLVvX_3j9HsBkHO3mdsdGYElSYbfWqG8UpB/s1600/IMG_0341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkkpEdCaMJQiVGPESey2_mbxckQaPD_vwLr6LUnFrcOgmLk6cKizK2_QReIc355-nOY3hqeCfUIwrsdxwyNTy_kPUtJ9nC3gsZqadNNptzegLVvX_3j9HsBkHO3mdsdGYElSYbfWqG8UpB/s640/IMG_0341.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This platform was used for performing Shaolin magic, faithfully re-enacted by Elizabeth ;^)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjON3ZtyTvz53kth1kfyOBO0tXeNs1tpZloOkXUpf7UVrEPz9b7IVBwnIhKnKjlwBTn1IyyXfPdxtylpaHkFoZVl-tQC0kXKBPcTVKQZ-km5MonXq2AWnmnM3uXmq3eyDJOWB2lU0xhyphenhyphenZTd/s1600/IMG_0355.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjON3ZtyTvz53kth1kfyOBO0tXeNs1tpZloOkXUpf7UVrEPz9b7IVBwnIhKnKjlwBTn1IyyXfPdxtylpaHkFoZVl-tQC0kXKBPcTVKQZ-km5MonXq2AWnmnM3uXmq3eyDJOWB2lU0xhyphenhyphenZTd/s640/IMG_0355.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking up mountains in China invariably means climbing many, many stairs. Which is more fun when you're chasing an older sibling!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha_kFhfVdZ3CxrXcZ9egL3dvU-kUeseSfFeibkBYMDQyXSSeUXnwcf95rogwKlyXQRmYTQOcYH23cP_pMevnCzqLaB9ZQWle_zDQ6qMPa7qrwWWoawJyjvWehcQ5T7Lgv-bQWBHKEtnnI5/s1600/IMG_0367.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha_kFhfVdZ3CxrXcZ9egL3dvU-kUeseSfFeibkBYMDQyXSSeUXnwcf95rogwKlyXQRmYTQOcYH23cP_pMevnCzqLaB9ZQWle_zDQ6qMPa7qrwWWoawJyjvWehcQ5T7Lgv-bQWBHKEtnnI5/s640/IMG_0367.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Did I mention there were so many stairs?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0hGOroJbEny4664j7sUmy-IXuMVpUplR8yeK3_J8A88sRhPJux_iNkFjbb1GYLMKQagiihx0nROkLBx3Akplrti-k_2zVql_dYFGGgU9v-Pun10hAVLcCO6Lsb4mf9l3X7sPebos1M6Zr/s1600/IMG_0374.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0hGOroJbEny4664j7sUmy-IXuMVpUplR8yeK3_J8A88sRhPJux_iNkFjbb1GYLMKQagiihx0nROkLBx3Akplrti-k_2zVql_dYFGGgU9v-Pun10hAVLcCO6Lsb4mf9l3X7sPebos1M6Zr/s640/IMG_0374.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Queen of the mountain! Not pictured - the guy offering to remove the cloth from that "Shao Mountain" sign for 20 yuan.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggVbUwuaaKpNpFY9B4-C5Eqbdui4lmrZnNqyLdphV015Sc0PEsTJLAdrvDtSWFNwPS4e0Kwejun7SqH2CqfIG3OvW_G8blsJL-G-DprEBFFj0NT4uJGRj-1o1jr2rGBcA7jKejRU_VCewv/s1600/IMG_0403.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggVbUwuaaKpNpFY9B4-C5Eqbdui4lmrZnNqyLdphV015Sc0PEsTJLAdrvDtSWFNwPS4e0Kwejun7SqH2CqfIG3OvW_G8blsJL-G-DprEBFFj0NT4uJGRj-1o1jr2rGBcA7jKejRU_VCewv/s640/IMG_0403.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The full temple complex from above</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_4q_CxL2W1M4ReKDaVfHeNNb-DljhF8HWQ_3WyKOE98aNlIM3qPlw7K8-YTWA4LmKnyDnc0C1VYaHnj27zDXBIhJsTn4pQWYsmydJuiuv46srajw-sp65Td1oCJz77VX9wjm86WHM9nK/s1600/IMG_0411.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_4q_CxL2W1M4ReKDaVfHeNNb-DljhF8HWQ_3WyKOE98aNlIM3qPlw7K8-YTWA4LmKnyDnc0C1VYaHnj27zDXBIhJsTn4pQWYsmydJuiuv46srajw-sp65Td1oCJz77VX9wjm86WHM9nK/s640/IMG_0411.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The yellow gondola has an "A" instead of a 4. In China the number 4 sounds like the word for "Death". Strangely, no one ever wanted to take the death car so they had to re-label it.</td></tr>
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Afterwards our very attentive guide brought us off at the smallest train station in
Luoyang and reluctantly dropped us off - sure we were in way over our heads (we were fine. Okay, maybe we were in a little over our heads, but that's what travel is about!).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZV29pje2lTVJBjIXOCA__OIrWsj-2xB4Pa8pEB75tOfcnfCByLTLEVQzr-RS6IB6jeR3galngUxKdQgU_BMfQC0-b9WCdHwTqkyGPrk5Id5q8zrHu2He-q5ItwviX0womf7HToNBAGz3k/s1600/IMG_20180622_185927.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZV29pje2lTVJBjIXOCA__OIrWsj-2xB4Pa8pEB75tOfcnfCByLTLEVQzr-RS6IB6jeR3galngUxKdQgU_BMfQC0-b9WCdHwTqkyGPrk5Id5q8zrHu2He-q5ItwviX0womf7HToNBAGz3k/s640/IMG_20180622_185927.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Most of the waiting area was outside. The nearby public toilet was truly horrifying.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-align: start;">We hung out at the station waiting for our next train - the overnight slow train to Zhangjiajie. A very different experience than the bullet trains we had been riding thus far, and our last train of the trip, sadly. More like a summer-camp bunk room on rails. A number of Michael's co-workers asked if there were chickens running around on the train, which leads us to believe there are yet lower classes of train service. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixLDbXzFezX27IzEnv71rxkxxiG-HKjm8cO0zv4hdo-1qctSxXhll6K07ytER-3Qc3uis4lNcSZpT283En0qBjeChm63Swi4sBgGnmaZBeyABonQ00hyphenhyphen1YwE1Us2aOgXuL9OFYtzggcuGt/s1600/IMG_0413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixLDbXzFezX27IzEnv71rxkxxiG-HKjm8cO0zv4hdo-1qctSxXhll6K07ytER-3Qc3uis4lNcSZpT283En0qBjeChm63Swi4sBgGnmaZBeyABonQ00hyphenhyphen1YwE1Us2aOgXuL9OFYtzggcuGt/s640/IMG_0413.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The kids find this arrangement ridiculous. And awesome.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9cS5gz439IynpsV3Id2b8l1xNOiwi9UJfljGDfIZfmoMGxBJrzQznip0PqeaJhBWSSnQ3d4VO_enflnc9nT7wOXaNYoWh2Fwt3i44RvpYSVtwLAUQTZevYKhedl_Dwss0ma0YXEZXL3Cd/s1600/IMG_20180623_081821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9cS5gz439IynpsV3Id2b8l1xNOiwi9UJfljGDfIZfmoMGxBJrzQznip0PqeaJhBWSSnQ3d4VO_enflnc9nT7wOXaNYoWh2Fwt3i44RvpYSVtwLAUQTZevYKhedl_Dwss0ma0YXEZXL3Cd/s640/IMG_20180623_081821.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eldest adding a new WeChat friend on Elizabeth's phone.</td></tr>
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We eventually got to sleep and woke up just outside ZhangJiaJie, a national park that is home to stunning limestone and sandstone cliff formations. More on that next post!<br />
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<br />Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-59899554231602985622018-07-19T07:00:00.000-07:002018-07-19T07:00:02.324-07:00China Trip - Xi'anWhen you last saw us, we were on a high speed train taking us from Chengdu to Xi'an.<br />
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We made it to our hostel in the mid-afternoon, so decided to get to know our neighborhood by exploring Xi'an's Muslim Quarter. Xi'an was the effective terminus of the Silk Road, and so has strong cultural influences from the merchants who visited the city for millennia. The longer we live in Asia and get to know the depth of history here, the more it feels like the main narrative of humanity exists on an axis between Damascus and Xi'an, and all of the Western history we're familiar with is low-stakes current events on the fringes of civilization. <br />
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Our destination in the Muslim Quarter was the Huajue Mosque. Built approximately 600 years ago, it is the largest mosque in China and still an active place of worship. The mosque follows the traditional Chinese temple pattern of courtyards, gates, and pagodas atop sacred tortoises. However the walls are inscribed with Arabic prayers and the final great hall that would have normally contained a giant Buddha statue is instead laid out with prayer rugs facing west.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXX7zKULtLRPXZJv96LaOVlHKomJyq0MHmUoVl3chWAodS_WzsRXbIGm3JBig2H5VHsw60GZctQmOSOoqMjtPVX3QEBc-Eeec82Yis16ymwFWzBXLiNKTHe7wBd56S1nxOAzcxunpFqzdt/s1600/IMG_0109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXX7zKULtLRPXZJv96LaOVlHKomJyq0MHmUoVl3chWAodS_WzsRXbIGm3JBig2H5VHsw60GZctQmOSOoqMjtPVX3QEBc-Eeec82Yis16ymwFWzBXLiNKTHe7wBd56S1nxOAzcxunpFqzdt/s640/IMG_0109.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Quiet and serene. Unlike the rest of the Muslim quarter.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja-iOZk4PRJMtnbBkcrjlj0-FaVGimf65rg9azEcahM0IrlYdUQIUUl6OT65KJ6kPgZ08enBWBtG1W_GfvXZeSOqZGV47qToQ1Mvo6Ha1YTNZv-ARtBjBzykfcmpb4DONydLhlftRXsM2Z/s1600/IMG_0113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja-iOZk4PRJMtnbBkcrjlj0-FaVGimf65rg9azEcahM0IrlYdUQIUUl6OT65KJ6kPgZ08enBWBtG1W_GfvXZeSOqZGV47qToQ1Mvo6Ha1YTNZv-ARtBjBzykfcmpb4DONydLhlftRXsM2Z/s640/IMG_0113.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">A philosophical debate in Mandarin. I assume.</td></tr>
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So what was in the rest of the Muslim Quarter? A tourist market of a type that can be recognized anywhere in the world (think London's Camden Market, Athens' Monastiraki, Paris' Latin Quarter, Bangkok's Chatuchak Market...) full of relatively exotic food served kebab style and cheap trinkets, of course! Given the prevalence of both sausages-on-sticks and fried
corn batter at Chinese street food markets, whoever introduces pronto
pups to this country is going to make a bazillion Yuan!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvTjUREhluqI3xFsOiziUpdlg7ealswMK7tHWJ4I3vzMoFRdknEnNjvHDTdDg_HbB2lgU6MSfkmh8IBwjciDaQPHNS2E-7VNloHa9-cz5JziyE5V7P9ZxCJDbRPm3dDiJHZ2TICuEw09Bc/s1600/IMG_0098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvTjUREhluqI3xFsOiziUpdlg7ealswMK7tHWJ4I3vzMoFRdknEnNjvHDTdDg_HbB2lgU6MSfkmh8IBwjciDaQPHNS2E-7VNloHa9-cz5JziyE5V7P9ZxCJDbRPm3dDiJHZ2TICuEw09Bc/s640/IMG_0098.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm not sure if there were more chibi warriors on the streets of Xi'An than actual Terracotta warriors, or the other way around.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixERhrhRdlOctOW-ADesAmd2kDXkLNqQ0i0CqIxwPambzb-tAeXpA3TF6fd7sM68rUqE8GTnxMay6WH96ihUNAJUh1VA809HDZfiKt1cnUeqDWNbrETAjTDkZVwx6Dr_0edDVSl0c0tp7z/s1600/IMG_0105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixERhrhRdlOctOW-ADesAmd2kDXkLNqQ0i0CqIxwPambzb-tAeXpA3TF6fd7sM68rUqE8GTnxMay6WH96ihUNAJUh1VA809HDZfiKt1cnUeqDWNbrETAjTDkZVwx6Dr_0edDVSl0c0tp7z/s640/IMG_0105.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Quit taking pictures and let's get some fried potatoes!"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj355LCh-MOLZs1rtU7pxTYkD5-pE28Fp2CBMSl0GmosKO9Bn438098J1sSRKNsIfBAT_cDLuQW55lts-bAKn8zpMIYwNVBfX_1YHvDGdw8TgN7OElCgnIgyVBKlwK2rUXqgJ0XBSbvG7qc/s640/IMG_0119.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="426" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was liquid-nitrogen-cooled sweetened corn puffs, not _actually_ unicorn scat.</td></tr>
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The next morning we rose early to visit the reason visitors foreign and domestic all flock to Xi'An - the Terracotta Army.<br />
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In the outskirts of Xi'An, the Terracotta Army is roughly ten thousand full-size pottery soldiers guarding the tomb of the first Qin emperor (who unified China roughly 2,300 years ago). You can check out the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terracotta_Army" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a> article for the full story, but the first emperor of China ordered his citizens to create an army made up of pottery soldiers, generals, and horses armed with actual weapons and chariots. These were buried near his tomb to protect him from enemies that he was sure would attack his spirit in the afterlife. He was, in fact, a controversial fellow.<br />
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The entire site was lost to history until 1974 when farmers stumbled across it while digging a well. Much of it has been excavated now, enclosed in massive buildings to protect the pottery from the elements, but much of the site has been left covered (or even re-buried) to preserve the paint and finer details.<br />
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The actual tomb of the Qin emperor is completely undisturbed in a large mound about 2 km behind the army pictured below. He's believed to have been buried in a chamber created as a map of China with lakes and rivers of mercury, and mercury levels do measure abnormally high near his burial mound. Since mercury vapor is (in addition to being appallingly toxic) a great preservative, the plan is to leave him buried until technology improves and archaeologists are confident they can investigate the burial mound without destroying any priceless artifacts (or dying of mercury poisoning).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7L27RbRPl7T3ZwQAjpuHEZk2MT0or2V3iDbiAMI8CpBvzcG-DGzEvAQlkoZ_3X-Aw0t7Shp2Qkvw5W6Fh7G9OT2uiZ9DJh0AMnrvIjqQCfziUZ8q3xbEI0VaUH5m9bJimkQbdSAc4sn-6/s1600/IMG_0124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7L27RbRPl7T3ZwQAjpuHEZk2MT0or2V3iDbiAMI8CpBvzcG-DGzEvAQlkoZ_3X-Aw0t7Shp2Qkvw5W6Fh7G9OT2uiZ9DJh0AMnrvIjqQCfziUZ8q3xbEI0VaUH5m9bJimkQbdSAc4sn-6/s640/IMG_0124.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same picture as from the Wikipedia article, except with our kids in it! Not pictured - the insane crowd we pushed through to get to this view.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_yTdO9MmqKjoiUl-pW4GEzx3kGdCn1t2KHB1HyXmw9EzsSS9YAcPEN9trq9LBSGuOroJ1QABRqUwkSstkIeVc9Q1CxQlKCQJs-kdPv9oWxfLGwMF_bmBPfUMwuxoUq25zUzTGTfS9qNDt/s1600/IMG_0129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_yTdO9MmqKjoiUl-pW4GEzx3kGdCn1t2KHB1HyXmw9EzsSS9YAcPEN9trq9LBSGuOroJ1QABRqUwkSstkIeVc9Q1CxQlKCQJs-kdPv9oWxfLGwMF_bmBPfUMwuxoUq25zUzTGTfS9qNDt/s640/IMG_0129.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Every statue is different, and signed by its creator - so the higher-ups knew who to punish if it wasn't up to snuff.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKddSLYiqxF5Ahox6TaUF3pnQVQutLEkVgiFdicG6tA34nyV0jnI43LNHTzGL0yI1JNHDALCnBA2fbE1GPYn9NjpgeXf2EavBEBwA-b3MxNUi8TEjPL8rsKvyWPYL7UM7G2fSSuXAKLwki/s1600/IMG_0135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKddSLYiqxF5Ahox6TaUF3pnQVQutLEkVgiFdicG6tA34nyV0jnI43LNHTzGL0yI1JNHDALCnBA2fbE1GPYn9NjpgeXf2EavBEBwA-b3MxNUi8TEjPL8rsKvyWPYL7UM7G2fSSuXAKLwki/s640/IMG_0135.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This area was called "The Infirmary"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlr6aC488a3sMEMLSL5JrKZAue_AFaK7WjaqMefH-1OPWt3_LPB9z1xMwnwkuxJKeeLGNhGRM7UOv_xwpVjr2fre-nMK2ad5xzKCxWuoiKAjDY3SBoIcO3BOxPrmW7XqxYk-gFaEEX6MAA/s1600/IMG_0142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlr6aC488a3sMEMLSL5JrKZAue_AFaK7WjaqMefH-1OPWt3_LPB9z1xMwnwkuxJKeeLGNhGRM7UOv_xwpVjr2fre-nMK2ad5xzKCxWuoiKAjDY3SBoIcO3BOxPrmW7XqxYk-gFaEEX6MAA/s640/IMG_0142.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anyone want to do a thousand 3D jigsaw puzzles whose pieces have been mixed together?! (answer: yes. The kids were disappointed they didn't get to try)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrIMJsHe7hnwvcW4FWYQsX3NBlNGQDDQcoMF2Il8JoovBAYYv29P7QSdgOLaqT9vnivh0wl2K9qSrgB2dPaVkcxwP5BMf-dNTge1jod9aldoUlNquGy5lSo_JH6XaYqFTT5Qxmlg8s692o/s1600/IMG_0148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrIMJsHe7hnwvcW4FWYQsX3NBlNGQDDQcoMF2Il8JoovBAYYv29P7QSdgOLaqT9vnivh0wl2K9qSrgB2dPaVkcxwP5BMf-dNTge1jod9aldoUlNquGy5lSo_JH6XaYqFTT5Qxmlg8s692o/s640/IMG_0148.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This sword is still sharp. And was chrome plated, thousands of years before the west learned how to do it.</td></tr>
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We've seen traveling exhibitions of the Terracotta Army before, both at the British Museum and also at the Minneapolis Institute of Art. Those experiences tended to have just a few pieces and go into a lot more detail about the process that was used to create them, the history, the archaeology. The actual site was much more about the sheer scope of the effort rather than the quality and craftsmanship, and it was hard to reconcile the two sometimes. At its peak, between 700k and a million people were engaged on the Qin emperor's funerary complex - about 5% of the population of imperial China at the time!<br />
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After resting for a bit at the hostel, we explored the city walls. Xi'An has the most complete city walls of any city in China and are large enough that you can rent a bicycle and spend about two hours riding all the way along the top. Since there were no baby seats, we chose to stroll, and saw about 1/12th of it. However, it was a lot easier to stop for ice cream while on foot. Vacations are all about ice-cream stops.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit3elbbVTCIgo_PRf8CIp4lsGmr8VcBmxhjDvwwJegElM8-QTntLOEoujZVwOh-_m_Bv0Ow2F7Uc-10IYS15bXZES_YuGkcvfPwCeznxxvt1GCmvQgH4PG4fIJVmAeBkK22GemoBt-hip_/s1600/IMG_20180620_174312.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit3elbbVTCIgo_PRf8CIp4lsGmr8VcBmxhjDvwwJegElM8-QTntLOEoujZVwOh-_m_Bv0Ow2F7Uc-10IYS15bXZES_YuGkcvfPwCeznxxvt1GCmvQgH4PG4fIJVmAeBkK22GemoBt-hip_/s640/IMG_20180620_174312.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Most of the wall was built <i>after</i> Xi'An was the imperial capital... to protect it against the emperor.</td></tr>
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The next day began with another high-speed train - this one to Luoyang.<br />
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A couple of observations after watching over a thousand kilometers of countryside go by:<br />
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<ol>
<li>Although nearly every available square meter of open land was used for farming, we saw zero tractors or farm machinery. Some farmers appeared to have motorcycles that they used to get to the plot of land they were working, but that was about it.</li>
<li>We passed an astounding number of nuclear power plants. China's decisions around it's energy economy draw a lot of criticism for taking a surprisingly short-term view for a country that has no short-term accountability, and the smog was nearly universal. China has been investing heavily in solar and wind power, and hopefully they can finish their "industrial revolution speed-run" soon.</li>
<li>We didn't see any new construction under 30 stories tall. Some of the construction is essentially busy work to make sure economic "growth" hits the target set by the government, but most of it represents the enormous migration from rural villages to the growing cities.</li>
</ol>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijtxTWBmgBACe_PdoLhZwWpq1QziQyHKzWpgMwm1g5jPiFh-gpu7iqHlyzRAHbb3cdoClq_RfhLcptvSdja_P54f5eCit-pIzFf2XybpxDVP6yiQjBjjG4l5P7go5ZIBlp98ZMvVkvZnyL/s1600/IMG_0162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijtxTWBmgBACe_PdoLhZwWpq1QziQyHKzWpgMwm1g5jPiFh-gpu7iqHlyzRAHbb3cdoClq_RfhLcptvSdja_P54f5eCit-pIzFf2XybpxDVP6yiQjBjjG4l5P7go5ZIBlp98ZMvVkvZnyL/s640/IMG_0162.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rural China: skyscrapers and vegetable gardens</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-jrPgTLtQ0_Snzb2rWlmEpqkFVNG_BU-rcyDqEUxi7DZgYG5DUAMbZojKX9NOfWa9loBMPE8vh1qwkRgvbaZ_GscAk_MHBQc15MAwXGNCTJNN57JAwLDhlyilM_5Koz6I3I70wDwUIzlq/s1600/IMG_0152.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-jrPgTLtQ0_Snzb2rWlmEpqkFVNG_BU-rcyDqEUxi7DZgYG5DUAMbZojKX9NOfWa9loBMPE8vh1qwkRgvbaZ_GscAk_MHBQc15MAwXGNCTJNN57JAwLDhlyilM_5Koz6I3I70wDwUIzlq/s640/IMG_0152.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eldest is working on her Percy Jackson fanfic. Danger Monkey is doing "homework".</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0wjj_IFLhFKzEpQAdUedRoOvBNVa1hEEnO3lyN1Qcz8pNGWqQj-lwmVpeOVimkD9iX3K8Z1B11c7_DoefVeTGEjStoc3gkKCKKUxjC4TWjcwjr9VPGhBk-5yWMeKE7yFuOgbEy0zcJSN5/s1600/IMG_0174.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0wjj_IFLhFKzEpQAdUedRoOvBNVa1hEEnO3lyN1Qcz8pNGWqQj-lwmVpeOVimkD9iX3K8Z1B11c7_DoefVeTGEjStoc3gkKCKKUxjC4TWjcwjr9VPGhBk-5yWMeKE7yFuOgbEy0zcJSN5/s640/IMG_0174.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That's not a mountain...</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOMHYD-8BQJV7uNLKwNJd24LFiIe86LesVgTMhmVR0DIcm7gm0bL6AyghMFheBq6bwGjMqUSLb2kmDnYK2gVdUHk-ggooMifxOvv92cw04Iz7GHdCnDUKKZIUGSB8O4dkEbVROqP591gwa/s1600/IMG_0181.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOMHYD-8BQJV7uNLKwNJd24LFiIe86LesVgTMhmVR0DIcm7gm0bL6AyghMFheBq6bwGjMqUSLb2kmDnYK2gVdUHk-ggooMifxOvv92cw04Iz7GHdCnDUKKZIUGSB8O4dkEbVROqP591gwa/s640/IMG_0181.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #0000ee;">This</span></b><span style="color: #0000ee;"> is a mountain.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirOuO-mb9fqPK-OXQv_s12K7N3UPv1WTQ1LIP83AjxNlOiaxiUwG-liR2gPGTptQPULY_p4wUWKXbuVXaxOc-4wyDlu1cnzRsDdQpCgGAJes7eu7g5W0QVs823iIwC9hcj7aRVT_Qi3OU2/s1600/IMG_0176.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirOuO-mb9fqPK-OXQv_s12K7N3UPv1WTQ1LIP83AjxNlOiaxiUwG-liR2gPGTptQPULY_p4wUWKXbuVXaxOc-4wyDlu1cnzRsDdQpCgGAJes7eu7g5W0QVs823iIwC9hcj7aRVT_Qi3OU2/s640/IMG_0176.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snacks! Ginger gummies, dried orange peels, mystery wafers, and tea!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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See you next time, in Luoyang!</div>
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<br />Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-22897719600452470962018-07-16T07:00:00.000-07:002018-07-16T07:00:04.873-07:00China Trip - ChengduWe're back from another trip to China! This time we took advantage of the kids' summer break (which is a little weird when every day feels like summer) to spend two weeks touring western and central China. Having visited Beijing and Hong Kong we felt like we wanted to get out of the big cities and see what else China had to offer. Elizabeth worked tirelessly to arrange an incredible 12-day action-packed tour, staying mostly in hostels and traveling mostly by train. We've broken up the posts by location, since we ended up doing a <i>lot</i> in each place we stayed. Here's a map of the places we visited (not counting Beijing):<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjatqZCfXCs2ykoYobOtuL3ips7T4sNWdbB6Lqxb8VDsVi8TgkG7-W2vNdsqxzSZM_bTpeWLSCwcVnr16MSsdYeugj1trjYAQuMuBbMdsIx0g27sfxV8Q6IHbu3ljy8smStRd_FUY93tRIG/s1600/china+travel+map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="679" data-original-width="998" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjatqZCfXCs2ykoYobOtuL3ips7T4sNWdbB6Lqxb8VDsVi8TgkG7-W2vNdsqxzSZM_bTpeWLSCwcVnr16MSsdYeugj1trjYAQuMuBbMdsIx0g27sfxV8Q6IHbu3ljy8smStRd_FUY93tRIG/s640/china+travel+map.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We considered this region "Central China", but it was consistently referred to as "Western China" by everyone we talked to. Chengdu (where we started and ended our trip) is the gateway to Tibet, and although there's a lot of land if you keep going West there apparently aren't enough people to matter.<br />
<br />
We started off on a relaxing note to lull the kids into a false sense of security, departing Singapore on a Saturday late afternoon with plenty of time to finish packing and have a snack at the airport.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7xkBzSMNEThlS8eOYGy-S_LBbUJ7w1hW1P0Yu9qi4wobyMgFd0qNRqwDElWsqGogbx_S2nLT4fFlR5dVrs5-F0z-yb8pbHA7P-xfIz3hMGtQ-H2O-P7nSSE0ZhNNhRd8BULNFuIS0ZeTe/s1600/IMG_9872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7xkBzSMNEThlS8eOYGy-S_LBbUJ7w1hW1P0Yu9qi4wobyMgFd0qNRqwDElWsqGogbx_S2nLT4fFlR5dVrs5-F0z-yb8pbHA7P-xfIz3hMGtQ-H2O-P7nSSE0ZhNNhRd8BULNFuIS0ZeTe/s640/IMG_9872.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">OM NOM NOM NOM</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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That put us in Chengdu, in the Sichuan province, very late at night. Just enough time to taxi to our hostel and crash.<br />
<br />
Chengdu is a relatively laid back city.
With a population of "only" 15 million people it is considered a "tier
one-and-a-half" city. Not big like a top tier metropolis like Beijing
or Shanghai,
but it has broken away from the pack of smaller cities due to
population growth driven by government-sponsored "go-west" programs and a
more liberal cultural scene that attracts the younger Chinese
population that is fleeing the rural villages. There is apparently an
old saying in Western China: "The mountains are high and the Emperor is
far away". This part of China has always been a little against the
grain, having given birth to the initial anti-imperial revolts that
resulted in the formation of the Republic of China in 1911, and is now
considered the queer capital of China. <br />
<br />
We've learned by now that the first day of a trip needs to be pretty low-key, so we took the city bus down to RenMin Park ("The People's Park") and explored. We found some pretty standard Asian park features like lovely gardens and a fish pond, but also some unusual features like a number of traditional tea houses filled with locals getting their ears professionally cleaned, and a pond with insanely rickety and dangerous electric boats for rent. We partook of everything except the ear cleaning.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEVnOx54vOnD9ZugWYYW8jf1xXKh39WZa9204zFsuQHTdF4s0MxZgGBjhY1joLmUt4nW5zInKhPMtF1cKFa3WuczNE0225nPGtwnypVKvPkPXHcfVNBdDCHhIUHygTPzpaH1KKbchI9Ole/s1600/IMG_9890.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEVnOx54vOnD9ZugWYYW8jf1xXKh39WZa9204zFsuQHTdF4s0MxZgGBjhY1joLmUt4nW5zInKhPMtF1cKFa3WuczNE0225nPGtwnypVKvPkPXHcfVNBdDCHhIUHygTPzpaH1KKbchI9Ole/s640/IMG_9890.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our children make friends easily.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6P5-4ONY0XXGnBgInrmSUqnzcfIStGO4TK1b3RyJRzUiLBfbtoBnLuyKIQsVHQsFGCFN1OIt58D-y2UK2g2GdYRaQ7bx_-1xiJlI6SB76Bi9c8xSxlJ5epBAbka8woC6mVlLUgrEFtitZ/s1600/IMG_9907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6P5-4ONY0XXGnBgInrmSUqnzcfIStGO4TK1b3RyJRzUiLBfbtoBnLuyKIQsVHQsFGCFN1OIt58D-y2UK2g2GdYRaQ7bx_-1xiJlI6SB76Bi9c8xSxlJ5epBAbka8woC6mVlLUgrEFtitZ/s640/IMG_9907.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Those ear cleaners aren't disposable, and I never saw them get washed.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtCdhu7mW9NQpTkRniXBiuQtRB8jKgvfusr2iGfYVKWazYGGoSiAZ2UfcQf-3MdIm3oVC8zgLauMNDqdrBdfKKyP6dURo3OsTEixH59OZePr9uMG8VSjI9abnaQvnn4_b9eHGosbtooRXV/s1600/IMG_9910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtCdhu7mW9NQpTkRniXBiuQtRB8jKgvfusr2iGfYVKWazYGGoSiAZ2UfcQf-3MdIm3oVC8zgLauMNDqdrBdfKKyP6dURo3OsTEixH59OZePr9uMG8VSjI9abnaQvnn4_b9eHGosbtooRXV/s640/IMG_9910.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She hit way fewer other boats than her dad did.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYxNp3ZRjAAP40dXEYTBIL_d2q_ecsBO4p0rbZIZ3qPTDR68tWjRhZyVOgn4HexvE3caq9dzokhOU7hCWqRA0YYagzmA9jXSqyQ19CqBypzH0BaFF1dyw2x7AJs1tqOhS0QVmU0kwaN1hU/s1600/IMG_0014.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYxNp3ZRjAAP40dXEYTBIL_d2q_ecsBO4p0rbZIZ3qPTDR68tWjRhZyVOgn4HexvE3caq9dzokhOU7hCWqRA0YYagzmA9jXSqyQ19CqBypzH0BaFF1dyw2x7AJs1tqOhS0QVmU0kwaN1hU/s640/IMG_0014.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once again, our caucasian children are celebrities in China.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGMl0HyUu7JaRl225hXv_sfGkfcETZbxN8mRU3-83OiegFlefcbpMPinEMHaH8xMEm2a7f0NNNsZZFc7efcTXmvWzlaSRshxA3a5ws8yAkrXfaCE-fVufsrgP3YP_FYFFOqXKOkk7FWzz/s1600/IMG_0021.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGMl0HyUu7JaRl225hXv_sfGkfcETZbxN8mRU3-83OiegFlefcbpMPinEMHaH8xMEm2a7f0NNNsZZFc7efcTXmvWzlaSRshxA3a5ws8yAkrXfaCE-fVufsrgP3YP_FYFFOqXKOkk7FWzz/s640/IMG_0021.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even with 1.4 Billion people there's still room to run around.</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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That afternoon we went on a food-centered walking tour, where we ate
local specialty sandwiches filled with noodles and beef, Sichuan spicy noodles, Chinese spring rolls,
fresh in-season fruit from the nearby cherry and plum orchards,
amazingly stinky tofu (it was fermented with the same bacteria that is
used to make bleu cheese), all manner of homemade pickles (Sichuan makes
the unsubstantiated claim to be the first place where people fermented food) and
learned all about the cuisine and food history of the Sichuan province
and it's signature spice: the Sichuan Peppercorn. Neither a chili nor a
peppercorn, this citrus seed is responsible for the
numbing/tingling/buzzing sensation and "soapy" flavor that defines
Sichuan cuisine.<br />
<br />
We were also introduced to Baijiu, a
unique class of fermented/distilled beverage that is the most-consumed
liquor in the world, and Michael ate the brains of two different types
of animal at dinner (not pictured, sadly). It definitely helped set the stage for the
culinary adventure we were in for on the rest of the trip.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Qqmr9zGAgxi_FujX60gBVZrnGFZInpSOkMCcvZVs9ZFnoUUtmn3BxO_1XrlINkctGUDcnekt54kpYCVwXgfJsM5sdpVFZXhjyp25dFaDuZcz3p95fJ_epGXADLfPZGiTcLQR9MusOPLw/s1600/IMG_20180617_172449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Qqmr9zGAgxi_FujX60gBVZrnGFZInpSOkMCcvZVs9ZFnoUUtmn3BxO_1XrlINkctGUDcnekt54kpYCVwXgfJsM5sdpVFZXhjyp25dFaDuZcz3p95fJ_epGXADLfPZGiTcLQR9MusOPLw/s640/IMG_20180617_172449.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I have no snarky comments. This noodle shop was astoundingly good.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj001LcFnIneZI5TQ3iPm9meszAon1In9TCtYsO7bJoYudRoyXoXL0N9hT3S6_HY-O5lmWMJyIRuH5p34cBuVtePG8SeI42Es4xaVLJHqWIkLvjvVJBi7Zl9HGacDsxu0oR3S-4JlGMBGy5/s1600/IMG_20180617_175606.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj001LcFnIneZI5TQ3iPm9meszAon1In9TCtYsO7bJoYudRoyXoXL0N9hT3S6_HY-O5lmWMJyIRuH5p34cBuVtePG8SeI42Es4xaVLJHqWIkLvjvVJBi7Zl9HGacDsxu0oR3S-4JlGMBGy5/s640/IMG_20180617_175606.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danger Monkey is communing with dinner.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioZ8a9QS1yaglf4xR4YUHWiOJtYrPWPzotzVW-COJ3TqGm0RCFyFFw6AWKgiBR_FYsuO3L5OYsKRjz39HU4qBYNw477hTGkks65-gj5euQHVOHjPQZv2nczy9mfZXIEdVT-3LQO-t9aGgb/s1600/IMG_20180617_180230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioZ8a9QS1yaglf4xR4YUHWiOJtYrPWPzotzVW-COJ3TqGm0RCFyFFw6AWKgiBR_FYsuO3L5OYsKRjz39HU4qBYNw477hTGkks65-gj5euQHVOHjPQZv2nczy9mfZXIEdVT-3LQO-t9aGgb/s640/IMG_20180617_180230.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Actual Chinese food. No sesame chicken in sight.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUg-24ciuHVzwVcI6CU_Zkq37ymCm22X3LAhECCdRFwZI9yCfQ1jBskifSyV6X4sILTG3zXLSQHtrx7eaHFoLhUPiEBJJ739xFIKb_6DxO491qmXUhHerct8qrsKVATvSkRedxMRgf_1k7/s1600/VID_20180617_183038.mp4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUg-24ciuHVzwVcI6CU_Zkq37ymCm22X3LAhECCdRFwZI9yCfQ1jBskifSyV6X4sILTG3zXLSQHtrx7eaHFoLhUPiEBJJ739xFIKb_6DxO491qmXUhHerct8qrsKVATvSkRedxMRgf_1k7/s640/VID_20180617_183038.mp4" width="640" /></a></div>
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The next day we were ready for the main purpose of our Chengdu visit: Time
To See The Pandas. Chengdu is nestled into the rising foothills of the
Himalayas on the western end of the Sichuan basin, and so is right on
the edge of the last remaining natural habitat of the Giant Panda. As
China has opened up to more and more foreign tourism the number of Panda
research and rescue centers has exploded. There are options to spend
an entire day mucking out Panda cages and options to spend hundreds of
dollars for a 15-second photo-op with an actual bear, but neither option
was available for kids. How sad! We had to settle for visiting the
Panda research and breeding center, which is essentially a giant modern
zoo for Giant Pandas, Red Pandas (no relation), and a few wandering
peacocks. The kids were thrilled, even with the long lines, as they
had been ravenously consuming panda documentaries on Netflix for
months. The pandas were generally more active and social than the pair
that resides in the Singapore zoo, and the visit was overall pretty
great. We saw a full spectrum from 10-day-old larval panda babies, all the way
up to enormous lard-butt pandas that had somehow managed to climb to
the top of a tree.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTJTrC1pIrOhayiPr6RiWrR1gnPkO-Gb7dIE1gmsp5eJMZW6TpuCwv78VgwctEoXJ5W1w-hF8s4qY5b4n3gWeVdolqDEXcU1y9WC8KLg7YSndxqCyER2LSBhhROCewuyXNESkXJfGlSd7V/s1600/IMG_9945.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTJTrC1pIrOhayiPr6RiWrR1gnPkO-Gb7dIE1gmsp5eJMZW6TpuCwv78VgwctEoXJ5W1w-hF8s4qY5b4n3gWeVdolqDEXcU1y9WC8KLg7YSndxqCyER2LSBhhROCewuyXNESkXJfGlSd7V/s640/IMG_9945.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It is a miracle that the species has survived as long as it has.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3xQyipMEbPuQNqKCdLD1VHaXRN-qSzxNBalQ_yt_TC0p7eNZlLegI4NIqtquwBAI4hvXs7INDC1k5ena1f-ehR2k6oX2RYSZE2unHp4zbLoVN21ykoeAPogVfNk-04y2YecHyLV3VGX1p/s1600/IMG_9951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3xQyipMEbPuQNqKCdLD1VHaXRN-qSzxNBalQ_yt_TC0p7eNZlLegI4NIqtquwBAI4hvXs7INDC1k5ena1f-ehR2k6oX2RYSZE2unHp4zbLoVN21ykoeAPogVfNk-04y2YecHyLV3VGX1p/s640/IMG_9951.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Did I mention the long lines?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXbrXTGpMxosjJPj4m6bdAgFmWLk-_1K4_ZzZHo4fKM3Qx4w4s7zvW5uj8luO1aFuhc6edgD1WICTustWLrdZtP1aXiQgIFF8iuTcuzFN8tw6j0QQ_4v6OOiYf0fqVVyIbO5iUqRlUwh8h/s1600/IMG_9961.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXbrXTGpMxosjJPj4m6bdAgFmWLk-_1K4_ZzZHo4fKM3Qx4w4s7zvW5uj8luO1aFuhc6edgD1WICTustWLrdZtP1aXiQgIFF8iuTcuzFN8tw6j0QQ_4v6OOiYf0fqVVyIbO5iUqRlUwh8h/s640/IMG_9961.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It looks kind of like a beanie baby that's gone through the wash too many times.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1AMWI_33b4Ea5DSfgLG7HFeb0HY_gA7JR6Mg7GvLtTjQmdgNfpRtfKLpIKl9D5HMX0cxNe0gm6rqV9SkL684IfVx86QHWSu_9HiKUf0DM1PYnkvHXDG7wA2m4Yztzizp2zs3nXUZrToj6/s1600/IMG_9971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1AMWI_33b4Ea5DSfgLG7HFeb0HY_gA7JR6Mg7GvLtTjQmdgNfpRtfKLpIKl9D5HMX0cxNe0gm6rqV9SkL684IfVx86QHWSu_9HiKUf0DM1PYnkvHXDG7wA2m4Yztzizp2zs3nXUZrToj6/s640/IMG_9971.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Charismatic Megafauna" indeed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
If you want more pictures of pandas, let us know. We can hook you up.<br />
<br />
We spent some time after the Panda Research Center exploring food streets and the neighborhood around the hostel.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD6vbEbkbKJcb2ZeKJ1dx0MFZtlbvK9UmppDaOlQ__snOrDjjzofIKvI48J85OQOVhit5YCKqKcfNAhBxEPjo77Lmvx1g0VZY2nxJNW4S8sIYwrdzbYeprL787i21dgYbh42RvPdAPL6iW/s1600/IMG_0033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD6vbEbkbKJcb2ZeKJ1dx0MFZtlbvK9UmppDaOlQ__snOrDjjzofIKvI48J85OQOVhit5YCKqKcfNAhBxEPjo77Lmvx1g0VZY2nxJNW4S8sIYwrdzbYeprL787i21dgYbh42RvPdAPL6iW/s640/IMG_0033.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It turns out there are a lot of people in China! Also it was a holiday weekend.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX3ngCxslc_VwDLf3Aair9Z94vzIt7ZFJm2a9ZP4nTIRUljbsRpLK5dKG6tLFyaMPEAoxYKsLzg37PeuCDxhYyGjhpUNAX6pPfN4QXjw-MwjZKDL0wmbZASuBRc3VXHb-d5ZNR9Uew89Li/s1600/IMG_0035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX3ngCxslc_VwDLf3Aair9Z94vzIt7ZFJm2a9ZP4nTIRUljbsRpLK5dKG6tLFyaMPEAoxYKsLzg37PeuCDxhYyGjhpUNAX6pPfN4QXjw-MwjZKDL0wmbZASuBRc3VXHb-d5ZNR9Uew89Li/s640/IMG_0035.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danger Monkey is communing with the pearl polisher.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk5JdxkLx2xOapvT3An5N35Qc53S1fdRwBbajr8KpMxyIzgJ5BJzkZNx1wtkaCceaj4ziYDq0E7dcNpfT56hKzSTSHbOEv5NWaXyo8S1ZwYBf92_EfWnZ3B8yF1paxmy1EtcyhR52qAavf/s1600/IMG_0043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk5JdxkLx2xOapvT3An5N35Qc53S1fdRwBbajr8KpMxyIzgJ5BJzkZNx1wtkaCceaj4ziYDq0E7dcNpfT56hKzSTSHbOEv5NWaXyo8S1ZwYBf92_EfWnZ3B8yF1paxmy1EtcyhR52qAavf/s640/IMG_0043.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The next day we roused early and caught a cab to the train station to
take the bullet train to Xi'an, former imperial capital and site of the
Terracotta Warriors!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcwxHwgM0pnC5LuajXEkHRP3YFwBqVMTSZNykflOMVF6RUl6RAHUHNp36ptItqRzGPuS7CePkmcoD-R7CijDVzUzenUKBgwQcmG73dRKwtV8hmMagJvO6SvM_pRRndQbvGaJnAgYFq__dq/s1600/IMG_0057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcwxHwgM0pnC5LuajXEkHRP3YFwBqVMTSZNykflOMVF6RUl6RAHUHNp36ptItqRzGPuS7CePkmcoD-R7CijDVzUzenUKBgwQcmG73dRKwtV8hmMagJvO6SvM_pRRndQbvGaJnAgYFq__dq/s640/IMG_0057.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A chance to take a high speed train? Don't mind if we do! We hit 244 KPH.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkbOM3W4yg6tEtwtzp_6ZpJRtv-4Pc3UUqccfbw3lFPe8azpeMA5MVgw5T8hNa8iOD4QuDmjFvy0-0jNjy5znmcgdzfkmJ65GfLJCRolfRWJFMbRWRo40HJCbZCTgyhqKB7NZqVc8l21P9/s1600/IMG_0067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkbOM3W4yg6tEtwtzp_6ZpJRtv-4Pc3UUqccfbw3lFPe8azpeMA5MVgw5T8hNa8iOD4QuDmjFvy0-0jNjy5znmcgdzfkmJ65GfLJCRolfRWJFMbRWRo40HJCbZCTgyhqKB7NZqVc8l21P9/s640/IMG_0067.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Sichuan basin is basically 100% developed, and has been for about 3,000 years.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7u9VYKzPpAtLVXddDhgNhEOnjFJ6wajxlJ-ekBFxgsaWl0lojdVmh4Sa6J863QeW6GjH6S3U7oCAL7hzWkF7t-8pln-tq-ZQPln_BtVMW2arA-ySZuPTpqJCQde0ojf8Tf-EbOveesHDH/s1600/IMG_0077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7u9VYKzPpAtLVXddDhgNhEOnjFJ6wajxlJ-ekBFxgsaWl0lojdVmh4Sa6J863QeW6GjH6S3U7oCAL7hzWkF7t-8pln-tq-ZQPln_BtVMW2arA-ySZuPTpqJCQde0ojf8Tf-EbOveesHDH/s640/IMG_0077.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wind turbines and subsistence agriculture.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-62841951718439166112018-05-07T07:00:00.000-07:002018-05-05T20:56:44.957-07:00Hong Kong!Michael had a work trip that brought him to Hong Kong while the kids were out of school, so Elizabeth and the monkeys tagged along! Hong Kong was an incredibly vibrant and dense city. It feels a lot like a New York City but packed into a fraction of the space. It has taken the top spot in Michaels "Blade Runner" rankings of Asian cities (having displaced Jakarta)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfF43YWfmFpFz4evzRJszxS0yjpQFF3ZVre_rNaDMRSc_OWzViXYVYEsDRIYM8JugzVuWnAbW3EFF6BlWjinF3LkhXR34s3-6ygkT-JQSkdaiqitV_DVHzISM3zeisFXM5Z0ehoYcpB2Zj/s1600/IMG_20180418_184247.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfF43YWfmFpFz4evzRJszxS0yjpQFF3ZVre_rNaDMRSc_OWzViXYVYEsDRIYM8JugzVuWnAbW3EFF6BlWjinF3LkhXR34s3-6ygkT-JQSkdaiqitV_DVHzISM3zeisFXM5Z0ehoYcpB2Zj/s640/IMG_20180418_184247.jpg" width="480" /> </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdtoj_GkbHq1ZFZS3gc_IgTyOL6PfrdIhJnAQXHsx7HT-6Fli6IdI798PNtHeQcceIU4vXoYru2zgJ3v_kxxZ9LJOS5P3reY0244L96C3XcPHwNDC-mlbYJ9W2puy9tfo8lVON7rCUIfTz/s1600/IMG_20180420_182527.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdtoj_GkbHq1ZFZS3gc_IgTyOL6PfrdIhJnAQXHsx7HT-6Fli6IdI798PNtHeQcceIU4vXoYru2zgJ3v_kxxZ9LJOS5P3reY0244L96C3XcPHwNDC-mlbYJ9W2puy9tfo8lVON7rCUIfTz/s640/IMG_20180420_182527.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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There is still a strong streak of colonial history and culture that runs through Hong Kong. Just like in Singapore, the upper echelons of local Chinese families embraced British traditions seeking opportunity and favor, and now it is hard to separate the "foreign" influence from the hybrid adoption. Examples inlcude the noonday gun that fires every day at precisely 12:00, the street names (and driving on the left, unlike mainland China), high tea and British-made narrow-gauge double-decker trams.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijALA4296QB0WQWF8jF5oDDjISY4Fcx2xdTmy67mpsqZch-oZ6Fqzv41GxF4XtJGbmobGYBG4c77ew3uoPxBpqvMtj02yopds-P-YMHkdAjR0GVdSOWVWB17npT0ombKW1-DIA29WlA3DH/s1600/tram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijALA4296QB0WQWF8jF5oDDjISY4Fcx2xdTmy67mpsqZch-oZ6Fqzv41GxF4XtJGbmobGYBG4c77ew3uoPxBpqvMtj02yopds-P-YMHkdAjR0GVdSOWVWB17npT0ombKW1-DIA29WlA3DH/s640/tram.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo credit Se Meyer - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pm54y-6CEBk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Another tradition that has endured is horse racing. The first Hong Kong horse races were held in 1841 as entertainment for the upper class, but over time has become more accessible to the general populace. Now, the Happy Valley Racecourse, located in the middle of the city, has races every Wednesday evening for a $10HKD (~$2USD) entry and attracts a huge crowd of locals with some tourists thrown in. Although there's some serious gambling that goes on, it's also a pretty great party with beer, hot dogs, and live music between races.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpH6VcBCfeOZPV2OFqYAz_gPkVqGKOY1Suwpyuf4-7JKCjldYl6P9F-wMrQiI8ECO7jGpFKr17hhLu_NcKKe2WlwNCeIaKTyYYvelzyU59NfsEwi9HluEE3Ei1I4Ws24cfdaW3TM-JRjNs/s1600/IMG_20180418_192649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpH6VcBCfeOZPV2OFqYAz_gPkVqGKOY1Suwpyuf4-7JKCjldYl6P9F-wMrQiI8ECO7jGpFKr17hhLu_NcKKe2WlwNCeIaKTyYYvelzyU59NfsEwi9HluEE3Ei1I4Ws24cfdaW3TM-JRjNs/s640/IMG_20180418_192649.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not pictured - synchronized dance routines performed between races.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy6pyJVLSuJc1GiUCUlrvjXsl-ZFZAItYB1A_MGmZERIGaoP9gMySf0J1mqQva29bd0T2tXdGrYrwazCVvaTypXn096vzPwyYmClNdud9Xq4kFjxzZ4Znfy4_WT3aU5jNN5exhqb-Imz_7/s1600/IMG_20180418_194730.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy6pyJVLSuJc1GiUCUlrvjXsl-ZFZAItYB1A_MGmZERIGaoP9gMySf0J1mqQva29bd0T2tXdGrYrwazCVvaTypXn096vzPwyYmClNdud9Xq4kFjxzZ4Znfy4_WT3aU5jNN5exhqb-Imz_7/s640/IMG_20180418_194730.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horse Racing! Cheap beer! Is this what Canterbury Park is like?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Meanwhile, Elizabeth took a later flight with the monkeys - who were as helpful and well behaved as can be expected. By this time, they are quite the experienced travelers, but they are still kids. They were disappointed that our flight did not feature screens, and Elizabeth let slip a short "when I was your age" lecture.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1MZMMe5den-Hrt2hD5nl7zDqWlywOmFlGa66qeOZ7H6Y4VxuPRP24Ij-VVmQucZMTmzWB85yOUtlDVDXzsvTa54FYuaRUh1KhNK1NfJMzEfOM88bz-jCoeqh0ltrkmpwNEn6s-3RIvSuw/s1600/HongKongLuggageCart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1457" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1MZMMe5den-Hrt2hD5nl7zDqWlywOmFlGa66qeOZ7H6Y4VxuPRP24Ij-VVmQucZMTmzWB85yOUtlDVDXzsvTa54FYuaRUh1KhNK1NfJMzEfOM88bz-jCoeqh0ltrkmpwNEn6s-3RIvSuw/s640/HongKongLuggageCart.jpg" width="582" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We all want to push the cart!</td></tr>
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To keep it simple on a full solo-parenting day in a new city, Elizabeth took the kids to Hong Kong Disneyland. It's accessible by public transit, and even has it's own MTR line (you can tell by the Mickey-shaped windows), where Eldest showed Elizabeth how to add crazy filters to photos (not pictured here).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9pWNbID5hAZ5mjhPiunkM2FkpIOhpNa9w9V15Ciw0VEcfHQo17KlqP2CPIRn8UivLsi9cUOoIF7m7QLojDLOeDnqdwRFU0PnAxaXILbJzjCLtu6D8N9A6_dbWWw72AkG0VqVQ5-LAvmNo/s1600/20180427_225410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9pWNbID5hAZ5mjhPiunkM2FkpIOhpNa9w9V15Ciw0VEcfHQo17KlqP2CPIRn8UivLsi9cUOoIF7m7QLojDLOeDnqdwRFU0PnAxaXILbJzjCLtu6D8N9A6_dbWWw72AkG0VqVQ5-LAvmNo/s640/20180427_225410.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">We arrived just in time for a parade, which really set the mood. Once the music started, Elizabeth (the Disney skeptic) got swept up in the magic.</span></div>
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We explored the various lands, with Middle Child getting excited by a Spider-Man sighting (the place has been overrun with Marvel characters!), and Elizabeth really enjoying the immersive themeing of Toy Story Land.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSDQttlvgpKDhR01VdxuPrFlC7gGEREDWRxAi6VTUU1uKmd7LT8qEfcRCfv2TuCBAlm9e0DsRF6DSOTaTHulMImZQZCPeP1_Q98WXaO7iQBzKSPUOFgHu4Lo0ImenmQRUgHsU7dIFTvXQ4/s1600/HKDisToyland.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1502" data-original-width="1600" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSDQttlvgpKDhR01VdxuPrFlC7gGEREDWRxAi6VTUU1uKmd7LT8qEfcRCfv2TuCBAlm9e0DsRF6DSOTaTHulMImZQZCPeP1_Q98WXaO7iQBzKSPUOFgHu4Lo0ImenmQRUgHsU7dIFTvXQ4/s640/HKDisToyland.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Honey, I shrunk the kids!</td></tr>
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As for rides...they're not really set up for a single adult with three widely-spaced kids, but we made it work. Eldest loved the roller coasters. Middle child pushed his boundaries, but really enjoyed the classic carnival style rides. And Danger Monkey got dragged along under protest, but learned to tolerate the gentlest of rides by the end.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibP8IL7gISMGg_JNQQGnC9Tbg9U2-kyIHp_Ueeu68triEQdXMZ6jGxTGf6QxNs-3t8FHrRxVDEwyHScbj0NwaKTYcoDg685rrWwkMaerI_f2Kk5BGFDd6YRV7L1YqWnJvaNmje5gdj-FsO/s1600/HKDisDumboline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1145" data-original-width="1600" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibP8IL7gISMGg_JNQQGnC9Tbg9U2-kyIHp_Ueeu68triEQdXMZ6jGxTGf6QxNs-3t8FHrRxVDEwyHScbj0NwaKTYcoDg685rrWwkMaerI_f2Kk5BGFDd6YRV7L1YqWnJvaNmje5gdj-FsO/s640/HKDisDumboline.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dumbo the flying elephant: ho hum, terrifying, or juuust right?</td></tr>
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Once the rides closed, 30 minutes before the advertised closing of the park (Boo! We missed Small World!), Elizabeth treated the kids to light-up toys, and the four stuck around for the night parade - and light-up toy duels afterward while the crowd cleared. Happy and exhausted, we rode the MTR back to the hotel and collapsed. Success!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSaucPdheHBSP61hi_KVgo3ON1vPLZ9OohS1PrwpU6S_NVLo05EmX-vQLLiF00Z8CWECUrq4-YRdMW0HA8bJA55mGaYTjU8JZ5322DBuYe0wymjkrTZQpzpwXZNCw5nEcWCBO5JlPPtb3t/s1600/HKDisBubblewand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="521" data-original-width="927" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSaucPdheHBSP61hi_KVgo3ON1vPLZ9OohS1PrwpU6S_NVLo05EmX-vQLLiF00Z8CWECUrq4-YRdMW0HA8bJA55mGaYTjU8JZ5322DBuYe0wymjkrTZQpzpwXZNCw5nEcWCBO5JlPPtb3t/s640/HKDisBubblewand.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danger Monkey loves her bubble wand. See? I told you Eldest got me playing with overlays.</td></tr>
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Overall review of Hong Kong Disney: It is totally a Disney park, with all the associated pros and cons, but a much more manageable size than its Orlando counterpart. Elizabeth thought one day was enough, but Eldest campaigned hard to go back for a second day. A higher adult-to-kid ratio is strongly recommended.<br />
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While Elizabeth and the kids were touristing it up, Michael was being wined and dined by his local colleagues, which on Thursday meant descending on a hole-in-the-wall seafood restaurant on the 4th floor of a wet market. Michael finally ate chicken feet, it was not obvious how one stopped more beer from appearing in your bowl, and the waiters would sometimes spontaneously break-dance.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqSnmYiB9-a5t5ga14wXcr6xEFWXQCQrRdHy0hKktdUo2k6Yd0_oZDcRF7yqnU4ygjHOgI8boYAy0mLwf8ktg-WXbs7yhXg-IxHkw1QR_a_Z5Pr-U6P_G27Aw_8g2GMuXkETRLCQlVW0AF/s1600/IMG_20180419_215424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqSnmYiB9-a5t5ga14wXcr6xEFWXQCQrRdHy0hKktdUo2k6Yd0_oZDcRF7yqnU4ygjHOgI8boYAy0mLwf8ktg-WXbs7yhXg-IxHkw1QR_a_Z5Pr-U6P_G27Aw_8g2GMuXkETRLCQlVW0AF/s640/IMG_20180419_215424.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">He is doing the splits while wearing bright white cowboy boots.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGNix6MlYKaKurIHPL_JSfA8l7B2k1GvcT5eTy34mmG1ktRQyPBVFzS9__ZcQYy9SwxazOVxgFeOC0k7NVpTWKu64zC72sWThBb7GC2QPs9daHW6xMdueuVf0GUJCIkbqEJ7T2A4QLq_q/s1600/IMG-20180428-WA0000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGNix6MlYKaKurIHPL_JSfA8l7B2k1GvcT5eTy34mmG1ktRQyPBVFzS9__ZcQYy9SwxazOVxgFeOC0k7NVpTWKu64zC72sWThBb7GC2QPs9daHW6xMdueuVf0GUJCIkbqEJ7T2A4QLq_q/s640/IMG-20180428-WA0000.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The baking soda was the payoff of a complex song-and-dance gag.</td></tr>
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The next morning, while Mike finished up at work, Elizabeth and the kids recovered in the hotel room until mid-morning, then headed to the park across the street (very convenient!), which boasted at least 5 playgrounds. The elder kids quickly made friends and drew the Hong Kong schoolchildren into a game of cops & robbers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipgrg-_zm7ZndekOdMa9ZsEzC4GSw6kCNL7fILADjsmwil9JzaqJvDD62U0IspSVpoiv-l8l7dNxyM2EzRFo4iogtnArpkAb3STGDSW_fKvtYuK9g3y5c_xS5h3f7jHXKpcYxzU6naY384/s1600/HKPlayground.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="669" data-original-width="669" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipgrg-_zm7ZndekOdMa9ZsEzC4GSw6kCNL7fILADjsmwil9JzaqJvDD62U0IspSVpoiv-l8l7dNxyM2EzRFo4iogtnArpkAb3STGDSW_fKvtYuK9g3y5c_xS5h3f7jHXKpcYxzU6naY384/s640/HKPlayground.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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That afternoon, the family reunited, we took the ferry across the harbor to the Kowloon side. Our time-to-boat for this trip was very high, especially considering how many different islands were involved between airport, Disneyland, and downtown itself.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLpCJKOGFes6rjQaWUmd6YqtF8BIpa2Oj2agguFBIsrbM4B8nr1b4ri3DM_dpSAiFJOe_GauuM1kauPkT6DOY_L2TcVQ6C05FfiUHGonsAK16Zy-RHmdudD08sHjijBDCjTxRUKdV2kJ5J/s1600/IMG_20180420_174221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLpCJKOGFes6rjQaWUmd6YqtF8BIpa2Oj2agguFBIsrbM4B8nr1b4ri3DM_dpSAiFJOe_GauuM1kauPkT6DOY_L2TcVQ6C05FfiUHGonsAK16Zy-RHmdudD08sHjijBDCjTxRUKdV2kJ5J/s640/IMG_20180420_174221.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Somehow these ferries were bi--directional. The seat backs flipped over to face the other direction.</td></tr>
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In Kowloon we explored the harborfront boardwalk and got a view of the Hong Kong Island skyline. The haze is a thick blanket of air pollution, about half of which is from local automobile traffic and the coal-burning power plants that supply the city's electricity. The rest blows in on the prevailing winds from mainland China. Some days were sunnier than this, but there was always a thick haze in the air.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzwMGzybvMApekjBsgxG6EZcMfI-ao0_pM9l76uMGkyaAKRy_3GwxHTUf7KAwPdoNi6jMvNMVngXthP4VCDgcRoL3NAeKf04AhQp4gjUo8RoqN2_1nqNMn21TtAVquOSWvDaJI4fQIlER/s640/IMG_20180420_175511.jpg" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hazy Hong Kong</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyjSPrDPdSaiGNACUh8V1_qMC0bEWIwiO2jYGNoJ_ZyWFIJPplV0eWzOefZBC8uSBso7925F9LS5_ShakXJqttVMm_huz9Drv1SXVbSz-5dcPLVARpWRPH00psdSTM2h0TenkZVzyfPUPo/s1600/HKdeck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="468" data-original-width="820" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyjSPrDPdSaiGNACUh8V1_qMC0bEWIwiO2jYGNoJ_ZyWFIJPplV0eWzOefZBC8uSBso7925F9LS5_ShakXJqttVMm_huz9Drv1SXVbSz-5dcPLVARpWRPH00psdSTM2h0TenkZVzyfPUPo/s640/HKdeck.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you look closely you can see a surly teenager starting to shed its chrysalis.</td></tr>
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After taking in the view we wandered past a fashion show that was setting up (that appeared to consist entirely of tasteless Native American headdresses), and hiked up towards the Temple Street night market for dinner. First: more snacks, while trying not to think about <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gutter_oil" target="_blank">gutter oil</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLI9QnpvBpTxVECogbKrTFXwCusmKbbU9sKTS4i7Ds6RFZsn9EljBdgd2UvXLM9dqF8Z_JE5jyp5XN_ezeMoRJ1BUu90OZzuCsSAo5YidwbZG1Po8iyyPrG88BgsO7rEy5b2CXL0FMwabE/s1600/HKFoodcart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="646" data-original-width="863" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLI9QnpvBpTxVECogbKrTFXwCusmKbbU9sKTS4i7Ds6RFZsn9EljBdgd2UvXLM9dqF8Z_JE5jyp5XN_ezeMoRJ1BUu90OZzuCsSAo5YidwbZG1Po8iyyPrG88BgsO7rEy5b2CXL0FMwabE/s640/HKFoodcart.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The day we learned Danger Monkey will eat a full pint of fish balls if left to her own devices.</td></tr>
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The night market was lively, and we eventually gave up trying to optimize our restaurant selection and sat down at the closest table to where we were standing. It was delicious, and the kids got to watch the seafood trying to climb out of its plastic buckets. Alongside the fried duck, dumplings, and sweet-and-sour pork we had some amazing fried noodles. For anyone reading this that remembers the old "Hong Kong Noodles" in dinkytown, it turns out that place was crazy authentic.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi69VqkzxrqHRsq13XX1Fdn_nhvJX9tGSR7gE4X7mX8eD-EMhzeyHugwoRU15cDwvRh3RhLpKTKaoKfzdPjaJtFHVtbJHUQAt-YzA_BYhOa2uZJ3OamkhRj26yN7eOyzP3_p4YUNIZZxnfi/s1600/IMG_20180420_195119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi69VqkzxrqHRsq13XX1Fdn_nhvJX9tGSR7gE4X7mX8eD-EMhzeyHugwoRU15cDwvRh3RhLpKTKaoKfzdPjaJtFHVtbJHUQAt-YzA_BYhOa2uZJ3OamkhRj26yN7eOyzP3_p4YUNIZZxnfi/s640/IMG_20180420_195119.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bustling, but not absolutely insanely crowded. Yet.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifGGfB-tu_3R_hF6AaO0JeqMDtw6TI5GzUSy22bHnbRJTWie9wHvotEe7oLdzDsNwMJuBS-P-ce5JMTLizWfy-QXNjZU2k8HqWGbO9xvT1VJd8GSBHFC3lyKeovvudmKaqz3IU-5K_-mG-/s640/IMG_20180420_210754.jpg" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We skipped the spicy crab. Maybe next time.</td></tr>
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The next day was a hiking day, so we decided to start with a hearty breakfast of authentic Hong Kong dim sum.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgZo71HGGI2MRgVu_VvEzh2cK-ALJ973v7CCpwcRERg-KCmcXMCvLld_gVnyKIo9wTJ-q6gTLkC3AQowRnknDYDFWA3LMY__HGJgOhImFv9Sb5kq7gs8GnRKUQI5j_Kojv8r-7I73M605W/s1600/IMG_20180421_102823.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgZo71HGGI2MRgVu_VvEzh2cK-ALJ973v7CCpwcRERg-KCmcXMCvLld_gVnyKIo9wTJ-q6gTLkC3AQowRnknDYDFWA3LMY__HGJgOhImFv9Sb5kq7gs8GnRKUQI5j_Kojv8r-7I73M605W/s640/IMG_20180421_102823.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><peek!></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fancy restaurants are the best for making funny faces in.</td></tr>
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Then we took the MTR to the end of the line to where we could pick up a relatively short hike over the ridge of mountains that occupied the southeastern region of the island. There is a longer (and more famous) trail called the <a href="https://www.aspirantsg.com/hong-kong-dragons-back-the-best-urban-hike-in-asia/" target="_blank">Dragon's Back</a> that we decided was a little too long for our short-leggers, but even with the more forgiving 4km trail we still had our work cut out for us. The first stretch was a 45-degree staircase through a cemetary.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixDy-n-eswyNERXdx94z8KEZxuQj24AHe3QvX0qrXFlP9oKL_jny90sYCFKad68BQcL6TaHZXvsEzyyD0MRAlPqSC67kZnfOgT2hc3VTuIDuCcyHp0HCbiMxc2EhfbB9vEkBbZ-1oIS1Zu/s1600/IMG_20180421_115334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixDy-n-eswyNERXdx94z8KEZxuQj24AHe3QvX0qrXFlP9oKL_jny90sYCFKad68BQcL6TaHZXvsEzyyD0MRAlPqSC67kZnfOgT2hc3VTuIDuCcyHp0HCbiMxc2EhfbB9vEkBbZ-1oIS1Zu/s640/IMG_20180421_115334.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The whole place smelled like burning paper and incense.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxhPfoyk6-gneENjYFYdu4ouol0UIa_0bbKQCl-gUjbMnLlGZPM9Iigapatef_WQyq-VdA1x6iJwmSJOyIfNZF9nl8stsePctYc7zdF3HJkv9jYYu9krMfc5y9KCRzeSrtm3hhgKHYz7yw/s1600/IMG_20180421_115650.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxhPfoyk6-gneENjYFYdu4ouol0UIa_0bbKQCl-gUjbMnLlGZPM9Iigapatef_WQyq-VdA1x6iJwmSJOyIfNZF9nl8stsePctYc7zdF3HJkv9jYYu9krMfc5y9KCRzeSrtm3hhgKHYz7yw/s640/IMG_20180421_115650.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Such steps.</td></tr>
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...then up another two equally long staircases, finally leading to a park at the pass where we rested while the kids played with caterpillars.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq5yoGEnWT0KU9-M5jZPaq5_j_7MxOzx_ehd060P1ckDgh0Hkl4_NVsf-5iZyHFGfM3JXPssiEPbOV7VLMkH6HFOrzsAxqTAM7JN4y3OEHv1SZBmmnPv8srnSrPlBW2xLyT1EVnyi4ZQpU/s1600/HKCatterpillar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1312" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq5yoGEnWT0KU9-M5jZPaq5_j_7MxOzx_ehd060P1ckDgh0Hkl4_NVsf-5iZyHFGfM3JXPssiEPbOV7VLMkH6HFOrzsAxqTAM7JN4y3OEHv1SZBmmnPv8srnSrPlBW2xLyT1EVnyi4ZQpU/s640/HKCatterpillar.jpg" width="524" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skeptical. Her siblings wanted to know how many they could bring home as pets.</td></tr>
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On the other side of the ridge we were suddenly in a fundamentally different ecosystem and climate. Jungle plants and shrieking insects were replaced by pines, leafy trees, and short scrub filled with chirping birds. We hiked down the (much gentler!) slope to Big Wave Bay, and watched a surprisingly large number of intrepid surfers fight for space on the larger waves while the kids played on the beach. The water was impressively cold, though Eldest was still upset that we hadn't brought swimsuits, towels, changes of clothes, and beach toys over the ridge with us.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXEard3j3GiY7cxHJBotKaGUUi8IsDtOwsN7eAav1dsDZLcxOiOMfQdOpMLQRYoC-Q12d3goN-KXlTQobKgOqrjFGxNzLPrvQjMeQEKooGN9_sVSIUmRHK8pIvFIeHNizLGnoi_DTmWFtw/s1600/IMG_20180421_131321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXEard3j3GiY7cxHJBotKaGUUi8IsDtOwsN7eAav1dsDZLcxOiOMfQdOpMLQRYoC-Q12d3goN-KXlTQobKgOqrjFGxNzLPrvQjMeQEKooGN9_sVSIUmRHK8pIvFIeHNizLGnoi_DTmWFtw/s640/IMG_20180421_131321.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Believe it or not, the stairs down were harder than the ones up.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvu5nMroXX-zpXymqUR7Ab8Y0hyphenhyphenMdsPZWAETVwLCRvYfdY4Pr5xqNKtdyAZF0BXtWrrom5OVzLl1G5adndyLsRRJruxwxLRYxa8nPBAhp3Nm3_yBCLnSxBvh9CTWJk6Fx4vD44dHfy5dtY/s1600/IMG_20180421_132440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvu5nMroXX-zpXymqUR7Ab8Y0hyphenhyphenMdsPZWAETVwLCRvYfdY4Pr5xqNKtdyAZF0BXtWrrom5OVzLl1G5adndyLsRRJruxwxLRYxa8nPBAhp3Nm3_yBCLnSxBvh9CTWJk6Fx4vD44dHfy5dtY/s640/IMG_20180421_132440.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Victory!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpiUgyVjhJZsvb2ybPFyJfkv-jY3jtKH8RqECQYZrtaPQYstBYUhHmtopdlvvTEZSiHk5CSKGThFO3qcgf_pKLC-O5MYeJoemCdOwcNefI7KDjkUHMqZu9_wqtYE_f_EpdhPMiAYm-OMUK/s1600/IMG_20180421_133509.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpiUgyVjhJZsvb2ybPFyJfkv-jY3jtKH8RqECQYZrtaPQYstBYUhHmtopdlvvTEZSiHk5CSKGThFO3qcgf_pKLC-O5MYeJoemCdOwcNefI7KDjkUHMqZu9_wqtYE_f_EpdhPMiAYm-OMUK/s640/IMG_20180421_133509.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some lunatics were doing this without wetsuits.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDZLz6ztMa8FJY00VvZu6vDz84S9yMgnAO_cmJ0nA8xnrvO6mpl9KuU41cr5U9zqD2SZZfGGFi5sWPzdXo4OTn86qdeuH8J2utfwt6yxFA-_kQYJTS4H9ct5XC0MB-NYiyklBYPHN7pmhr/s1600/IMG_20180421_134704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDZLz6ztMa8FJY00VvZu6vDz84S9yMgnAO_cmJ0nA8xnrvO6mpl9KuU41cr5U9zqD2SZZfGGFi5sWPzdXo4OTn86qdeuH8J2utfwt6yxFA-_kQYJTS4H9ct5XC0MB-NYiyklBYPHN7pmhr/s640/IMG_20180421_134704.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ocean! Somehow we don't get to saltwater very often, even living surrounded by it.</td></tr>
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After lunch at a beach-side snack bar we walked about 20 minutes to the next proper town, named Shek O where we had ice-cream and hopped a bus back to the nearest MTR stop. The bus system in Hong Kong was surprising great (and appeared to be bi-modally populated with either full-length double-decker buses or 16-passenger minibusses). We had pretty good luck wandering up to a bus stop, seeing a bus that had the name of where we wanted to go on it, hopping on, swiping our Octopus cards, and getting to exactly where we wanted to go in a pretty timely fashion.<br />
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We decided to pop out of the MTR at the city center and explore around to find dinner, but when we emerged the sky was clear and we decided to follow our family trip motto of "Just One More Thing..." and scoot up to the top Victoria Peak to take in the skyline at night. We crammed into a taxi to avoid the 1+ hour line for the tram, and got dinner at a noodle shop on the peak before heading out on the tiny public road that circles the peak and affords amazing views of downtown and the harbor. It was dark and we were tired so we don't have any worthwhile photos from our phones, but the wee road is actually on google streetview if you want to see the <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/@22.2775271,114.1478839,3a,75y,53.58h,82.09t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sqy4icQcfGzqqe78lEUvtUQ!2e0!7i13312!8i6656" target="_blank">daytime view</a>, and the nighttime view looked something like this:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3nJode7v3q7NTaeb9-YtDBou8cCgo9hozC-0l18-G2OKuSmEKU5fJNgRNOE6IvLKgC21lNfz0kn5S3KuZIcW9tlAWm3Rv2Kyf_EZGw2GoKWhKoasIUSZjOGQ4tsTI2rNP7QO8d16LVeJQ/s1600/hongkongnightskyline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="670" data-original-width="1191" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3nJode7v3q7NTaeb9-YtDBou8cCgo9hozC-0l18-G2OKuSmEKU5fJNgRNOE6IvLKgC21lNfz0kn5S3KuZIcW9tlAWm3Rv2Kyf_EZGw2GoKWhKoasIUSZjOGQ4tsTI2rNP7QO8d16LVeJQ/s640/hongkongnightskyline.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo credit shiroang - https://shiroang.deviantart.com/</td></tr>
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The next morning, our last in Hong Kong, we grabbed breakfast in a back-alley cafe that was decorated with (not "like"... "with") the interiors of 1950's streetcars. Michael had a pretty passable full English breakfast, and the kids had french toast slices the size of their heads. Afterwards we checked our luggage at the central train station (which is a downright civilized arrangement that other cities could definitely learn from) and took the Airport Express/MTR out to Lantau Island to see the world's largest outdoor bronze Buddha. From the MTR stop we took a cable car over the ridge to Ngong Ping, the home of the Tian Tan Buddha. Though all of the signs just called it "Big Buddha". From the cable car we got a great view of the airport, rolling forested hillsides, and pilgrims who chose to do the trek on foot, taking the path and epic staircases that followed the cable car line.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB1TjEgj6wlLxHtAHxK2RL46tE5xebJD-woJEbPBAGcCrl8fU0nFItEcPQENxbCuTB19-M_uuA1rkVCgrvYdpUB9BIMtE6hJn1OmGHblVJ0351ngU4xHdKQZtydZ-sgIGG2F2ZhYTRttnC/s1600/IMG_20180422_140100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB1TjEgj6wlLxHtAHxK2RL46tE5xebJD-woJEbPBAGcCrl8fU0nFItEcPQENxbCuTB19-M_uuA1rkVCgrvYdpUB9BIMtE6hJn1OmGHblVJ0351ngU4xHdKQZtydZ-sgIGG2F2ZhYTRttnC/s640/IMG_20180422_140100.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">*Someone* has discovered the magic of funny faces during photos.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2G2j0-ypKP00TgFduXD-dgk1zCLcKbihP-3Sav0xH00HY1VcxRFdUpfytt0ht4T2JpYLjTyhGNqEb5Bq4CDQ8LmPbPKPDw_EcipoC6Sql7KsrzHieSHo693hcuRvZzIP2RoZHbjdrY3QO/s1600/IMG_20180422_140123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2G2j0-ypKP00TgFduXD-dgk1zCLcKbihP-3Sav0xH00HY1VcxRFdUpfytt0ht4T2JpYLjTyhGNqEb5Bq4CDQ8LmPbPKPDw_EcipoC6Sql7KsrzHieSHo693hcuRvZzIP2RoZHbjdrY3QO/s640/IMG_20180422_140123.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danger Monkey is surprisingly nervous about heights, but only if they're safe.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrKnwc6bn-paxp03dNfHagayGzq5HeYLR4bgiK1-RbW8oBxuX0iS9foqjK0-2SFXe4NvJ5iwIWR6RG1LijKwySBOgM3poJQD5OIO244ZjKW7pBjvV94E7VIeCkd-cTqrNDbg6fJ2x7rQEw/s1600/IMG_20180422_141310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrKnwc6bn-paxp03dNfHagayGzq5HeYLR4bgiK1-RbW8oBxuX0iS9foqjK0-2SFXe4NvJ5iwIWR6RG1LijKwySBOgM3poJQD5OIO244ZjKW7pBjvV94E7VIeCkd-cTqrNDbg6fJ2x7rQEw/s640/IMG_20180422_141310.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Po Lin Monastery, surrounded by hills and clouds.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvLiF75nHEzYYFNkrUCxzblT5DRvNP78mjOs1JMbaRlwq5S9huuxvVFNZPIQhyBAV_pwlnD_BJdxaPTXw6ggl_ON2ZBUaaSgWonOoPk_2GW3Y5DMXKubqaD3VVXEnLwZ4GM5sopB3TUmHv/s640/IMG_20180422_141434.jpg" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thassa Big Buddha.</td></tr>
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The upper station was at the mouth of a tourist gauntlet of souvenir shops and gelato and coffee stalls. In addition to hawkers, there were also a population of sacred cows that roamed around. After a bovine photo op it was one last enormous staircase for the trip! At the top we had some good views, and loaned Danger Monkey's shoes to a couple that forgot their baby shoes that they were going to use for a pregnancy announcement photo. Someone, somewhere, has those shoes in a photo album that they'll treasure forever.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEX3t1OWr2o6mPIBqqoE5dFQkKk4VCGVnid0034uObfLuCuitZEAHpBqkRfW8X0J0dj62jjJA_vi-56WtE64hgB4UrkemjgicIICMXOUhVNJuTEayJsa1TL9PI_EIW8I2pBV5-qFDjY-C7/s640/IMG_20180422_142017.jpg" width="480" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Gauntlet. We did not escape unscathed.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI6e4DS1NXxL_rQiYtzLlc82lmJd7auTb4j_VX9LKgKlevwFxNx0jkk26dj7P714JBHXqV2P-7mYTB700P4LPnhuPgFcIhVHSzrU4Q9uItg18EXV6HKq4N0SCaxLhlPSzoKRt9ZCQ903UI/s640/IMG_20180422_142801.jpg" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Blank faces, calm as Hindu cows." - Tyler Durden</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinn0iA96ZCoJdPgti9r_H93VVZj6fs5t2HnW3_Ne3jDd-0Ed9p_oAB3ovuc888bEsiYEBwATt1n2PtyHSA65H_11AkUysKLo5WtTPHj49H1bjFIRiTYoWa8BBM6H9DCcV30skbbI_OaaLN/s640/IMG_20180422_143549.jpg" width="480" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It will probably be a decade before we get a good photo of Middle Child again.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-CCBIK1ZITQv6y8GxFBgvbHBSXH86PcIWALyJSHCC05fhPUEzlqnI5tRZswQk0uMpT-9eSsl_bxjXknt5EdH3wW7D-BAxuuZzclA6zfHjjxNjiSIozpT0PPZt6F5Z7jCFwmCyXrELQjuK/s1600/IMG_20180422_144248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-CCBIK1ZITQv6y8GxFBgvbHBSXH86PcIWALyJSHCC05fhPUEzlqnI5tRZswQk0uMpT-9eSsl_bxjXknt5EdH3wW7D-BAxuuZzclA6zfHjjxNjiSIozpT0PPZt6F5Z7jCFwmCyXrELQjuK/s640/IMG_20180422_144248.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enlightenment Selfie!</td></tr>
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After paying our respects to the Big Buddha it was time to catch a bus to the airport. The gate had a great view of the sun setting over the South China Sea and the armada of construction barges currently reclaiming enough new land to build runway three (and possibly wipe out the <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2017/06/14/world/asia/hong-kong-white-dolphins-airport.html" target="_blank">White Dolphin</a>). Eldest and Danger Monkey made friends with other kids at the airport using Eldest's increasing Mandarin fluency and the universal language of Duplos. Casual interactions with locals remains a highlight of our travels, and the more different and amazing places we see, the more we make sure to leave room in our plans for chance encounters and the more eager we are to take advantage of those opportunities!<br />
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From Michael: All in all, I had an amazing time in Hong Kong. A lot of that can be chalked up to being in town for a relatively low-stress work event that meant I had a built-in network of locals eager to show off their city, but it is also just an amazing city full of genuinely interesting things going on, historical curiosities, amazing food, and incredible landscapes and architecture. It was not originally on our must-visit list for our time in Singapore, but it might be one of the few places we go back to.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Name that 8-bit Karate Game!</td></tr>
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Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-46834821673462997272018-04-28T06:24:00.003-07:002018-04-28T06:24:47.012-07:00Wilderness Adventures<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Despite the fact that it is popularly referred to as a "City" state and its reputation as a densely-populated urban center, Singapore has its fair share of densely green regions. One such area is MacRitchie Park, located in the center of the island surrounding the MacRitchie Reservoir.</div>
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The reservoir was built over the course of the 19th century in a series of increasingly expensive public works debacles that finally culminated in a primary reservoir that was still insufficient to keep up with the demands of the growing commercial and residential needs of Singapore, so most of the water has actually been imported from Malaysia since 1927. The reservoir (and more importantly, the old-growth forest surrounding it) have been turned into a nature preserve and hiking area that is substantially more wild than the Botanic Garden to its south.</div>
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The park's "trails" are more akin to maintenance roads, perfect for rambunctious children to stretch their legs for an afternoon.<br />
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An army marches on it's stomach. Danger Monkey is eating a lightly frosted rice cake whose name transliterates to "Want-want". We have not bothered to figure out if that actually translates to anything.<br />
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Armies of ants carried off any dropped crumbs or frosting flakes. The bounty from a single snacking toddler is probably enough calories to keep a moderately sized ant colony fed for a month.</div>
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MacRitchie Park has MONKEYS. Also pictured: Long-tailed macaques in the background. They were playing in the road/trail, jumping overhead from tree to tree, chasing each other into the bushes, and eventually devolving into an actual nuisance. I did not think I would get tired of wild monkeys, but when there are enough of anything they can become just another fact of life.<br />
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The actual stated mission of the day was to traverse the TreeTop walk - a suspension bridge that traverses a valley between the two highest ridges in the park.<br />
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The forest canopy was rich with birds and butterflies, and we were treated to a pleasant breeze on a hot afternoon and a decent view, by Singapore standards.<br />
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And then a very long hike down many many stairs. Our legs were rubbery when we got to the bottom, but luckily we were on our way to our (late) lunch!<br />
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Afterwards we rewarded the troops with delicious indian food and cold sugary drinks. Barely even a death-march, by Borchert standards!Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-57259382451505584582018-03-26T19:35:00.002-07:002018-03-26T19:35:43.225-07:00Adventure wherever you areHello! Elizabeth here!<br />
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Adventure is one of my main motivations for...well, a lot of what I do (moving to Singapore, traveling, marrying a certain someone...). And yet, it takes energy and initiative, so sometimes gets forgotten.<br />
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We've been living in Singapore for over half a year now. Our nice little neighborhood is not a tourist hotspot or expatriate mecca, but it has easy access to everything we need: the kids' school, parks, food, and the MRT.<br />
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Part of that equation is the nearby food center. It's no Chinatown Food Center (which has over 200 stalls!) no, ours is more human scaled and comprehensible. And yet...and yet somehow I've patronized only about a dozen of them.<br />
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Well that doesn't seem right! I'm here for adventure, what am I doing picking just a few stalls? It is time to branch out and try something new for a couple weeks! I am a woman on a mission!<br />
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First up: Fatt Soon Kueh. It serves three types of kueh. What's kueh, you ask? What an excellent question...please hold on while I consult my friend Google.<br />
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Ah! Well, apparently kueh are bite sized snacks of a huge variety (that I shall have to hunt down and try), often being dessert-like. This is soon kueh, which is a steamed dumpling. There are three main types of soon kueh. Hey! this stall sells three types - what a coincidence! We're dealing with a choice between chive, jicama, or rice, each for $3 a plate. I chooooooose.....chive!</div>
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Oh look! they provided me with some sauces - I'll drizzle them on, because clearly that is how these things are done, right? It looks pretty good; and you can see my beloved teh (aka milk tea) in the background (sooo yummy....sooo much condensed milk). </div>
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I cut into it, and woah! That's a lot of chive!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKSLx0YuqtidlGw4j9bFaCa35e_44me3mHmUMGdZsH7xhEx9jB5xXw8Y8DSsl2goT_I87kY4pPnuqRM6nSk8nm7pLdBFy5KwqTDl-UAssDHpBRI7i-m1jyZiea_9ccbdlxLX-fr9Y7-q1h/s1600/20180305_231145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="776" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKSLx0YuqtidlGw4j9bFaCa35e_44me3mHmUMGdZsH7xhEx9jB5xXw8Y8DSsl2goT_I87kY4pPnuqRM6nSk8nm7pLdBFy5KwqTDl-UAssDHpBRI7i-m1jyZiea_9ccbdlxLX-fr9Y7-q1h/s320/20180305_231145.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
They weren't kidding about the chive - it's pretty much all cooked chives in there. Now I wonder what the other two types are like - this may require further investigation (oh drat ;) ).<br />
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Well, I can report that the chives are mild, and that the brown sauce is sweetish while the red one is a bit spicy, and it all together was a tasty combination. I ate it all, of course. I'm happy to go back, but there are still plenty of other options to explore!<br />
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So, back to you. Had any local adventures lately wherever you are? It really doesn't take traveling halfway across the world to have a mini-adventure.Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03530414937402634774noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-859059925097085945.post-10417453606150617792018-03-12T07:00:00.000-07:002018-03-12T07:00:22.433-07:00Gong Xi Fa Cai!Happy Lunar New Year!<br />
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While I had always been vaguely aware of Chinese New Year as a thing that exists, having lived through a CNY season in Singapore has given me a new appreciation for the holiday. The primary event of Lunar New Year is the Reunion Dinner, a traditionally 8-course meal during which parents berate their children for not amounting to more and where children suffer the attention of aunties and uncles in exchange for red envelopes full of money. Basically Thanksgiving dinner but without the food coma in front of a football game afterwards. Other observations from our day-to-day lives here:<br />
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<li>A month before New Year, tents pop up in parking lots selling red decorations and paper-craft representations of luxury goods to be burned as offerings to your ancestors. They remind me of the roadside Independence Day fireworks stands that used to sprout up just on the other side of the Wisconsin/Minnesota border.</li>
<li>On New Year itself there is a nearly constant banging of drums, gongs, and cymbals being used to drive away evil spirits. I watched/heard a flatbed utility truck drive by our condo streaming flags and filled with "musicians" in the back making an amazing racket.</li>
<li>Red everywhere. Stores are decorated, apartments are decorated, offices are decorated. All of the ads in the MRT have red backgrounds. People wear red. Red red red. Red pineapple lanterns seem to be a uniquely Singaporean decoration. </li>
<li>We went to Gardens By The Bay to take in their New Year events and got to see a lion dance on tall poles, acrobats and contortionists, and a blacklight dragon dance. It was pretty sweet, and about on-par with the Christmas celebration they had.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQe-rFRmEB-s82PQ7y6Z2zfWfNIsDKGarTjFpukHxAMkgF-QMfr1OkWP_4_fMp_lxAqaRQ40PcZDFlIcuawsccfpdV1u_lHRlCLucRyIISaLsHgCfaChEo5vNKbW2ctD-z7LjDgxCCHg7/s1600/20180227_183644.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1165" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQe-rFRmEB-s82PQ7y6Z2zfWfNIsDKGarTjFpukHxAMkgF-QMfr1OkWP_4_fMp_lxAqaRQ40PcZDFlIcuawsccfpdV1u_lHRlCLucRyIISaLsHgCfaChEo5vNKbW2ctD-z7LjDgxCCHg7/s400/20180227_183644.jpg" width="290" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was straight-up insane and somehow they did not die.</td></tr>
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<li>Fewer firecrackers than I was expecting. I assume it's because Singapore will fine you for the litter. (Elizabeth says they've been outlawed - but representations of firecrackers are still a popular CNY decoration)</li>
<li>We also attended River Hongbao which was an elaborate lantern-and-parade based celebration that culminated in an over-the top parade and late night dance party. There was a midway with expensive kiddy rides, temporary food stalls selling fried food and icees, and an array of edutainment exhibits. Basically the State Fair, but minus the tractors. And on a floating stage adjoining the Formula 1 grandstands.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1S7W6QF9uMxIlO063YVixBy6wNtbYiBTQe94GxS6p3ihFW10XNoeiIAIJ572c3zH0asZAX8Kla7Fbz6-ioJPykOaLVGDI-usN5kRIporw79Af4mrYT8e1MMJNhkamwSncK1gXYssa7KQw/s1600/IMG_20180224_171105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1S7W6QF9uMxIlO063YVixBy6wNtbYiBTQe94GxS6p3ihFW10XNoeiIAIJ572c3zH0asZAX8Kla7Fbz6-ioJPykOaLVGDI-usN5kRIporw79Af4mrYT8e1MMJNhkamwSncK1gXYssa7KQw/s400/IMG_20180224_171105.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Babby is flying helicopter, how can this be?!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGNVQvel2rSq9shzaKJhxTfn6O8AGucb9mPg_Sdr3do94TC1vCd24vXgKniNMrC0QJsBsh14j91Zdhbgvdj2PzdP0-C-myen7TN-P40zOOzIDNeRUUW5PjzA9zQH3tf_ReR3mv-RudZoV/s1600/IMG_20180224_171103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGNVQvel2rSq9shzaKJhxTfn6O8AGucb9mPg_Sdr3do94TC1vCd24vXgKniNMrC0QJsBsh14j91Zdhbgvdj2PzdP0-C-myen7TN-P40zOOzIDNeRUUW5PjzA9zQH3tf_ReR3mv-RudZoV/s400/IMG_20180224_171103.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Off-brand robot hovercraft something something?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmI1nz8C3jlJMSy4_JtCi0dJgQOf2g7As5nkE8QtjsQ5uLFEQWGRViEXNcR4mx0bF3Z2vspDCC_280ooEkF820buAJLz966RjGmkujUn1axvRoO9ucqhu2zoxsG-jyWo0SIomhARJHFeYk/s1600/IMG_20180224_165136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmI1nz8C3jlJMSy4_JtCi0dJgQOf2g7As5nkE8QtjsQ5uLFEQWGRViEXNcR4mx0bF3Z2vspDCC_280ooEkF820buAJLz966RjGmkujUn1axvRoO9ucqhu2zoxsG-jyWo0SIomhARJHFeYk/s400/IMG_20180224_165136.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monkey King just chilling at the party</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc2dTf2RWpGJl7YBy-8uH8SZiY5y83b23BvXmmek3Euww2lOAHYUbV0j-uKkXtihY8D6FctORK0joaoUmz8_EqBtueNwYu5YYw86-u6qZ_5zWqZpj3bgL8uGn0JbD3smW7APkLCQpVjipy/s1600/IMG_20180224_163056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc2dTf2RWpGJl7YBy-8uH8SZiY5y83b23BvXmmek3Euww2lOAHYUbV0j-uKkXtihY8D6FctORK0joaoUmz8_EqBtueNwYu5YYw86-u6qZ_5zWqZpj3bgL8uGn0JbD3smW7APkLCQpVjipy/s400/IMG_20180224_163056.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gong xi Gong xi!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBOKuu_MG6EStZJDrZPqq8iqZ_rf_LXsjAb4Iz4esz02lCiUjsP05U11ao96yA1UxKNPkeBXqGsNaq5v0-YhctsjzkuzT2CM0ovlHCd-ZsuET5AOQxTjAHIRPMPAeN6g740MBgs7dA_7E6/s1600/20180227_221841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1321" data-original-width="1600" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBOKuu_MG6EStZJDrZPqq8iqZ_rf_LXsjAb4Iz4esz02lCiUjsP05U11ao96yA1UxKNPkeBXqGsNaq5v0-YhctsjzkuzT2CM0ovlHCd-ZsuET5AOQxTjAHIRPMPAeN6g740MBgs7dA_7E6/s400/20180227_221841.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They're harvesting a carrot. What.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjglZvY0hrSbQiQgHcEbaVATAR9sbFroi_Amm_2JyOYVQJayFLUGcceyq1eE-d5XI1hVW3ibRPwOgcSjRaoLI-fu91eX1jaT5IIKa8OrSxaC07K-H9aUfa8mBDXTmZvovn2za0J-6STQ8ZF/s1600/IMG_20180224_215240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjglZvY0hrSbQiQgHcEbaVATAR9sbFroi_Amm_2JyOYVQJayFLUGcceyq1eE-d5XI1hVW3ibRPwOgcSjRaoLI-fu91eX1jaT5IIKa8OrSxaC07K-H9aUfa8mBDXTmZvovn2za0J-6STQ8ZF/s400/IMG_20180224_215240.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The President of Singapore is on that lead float somewhere.</td></tr>
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<li>Lion Dances are a thing. In order to ensure prosperity for your family or business you need to have a Lion/Dragon dance performed at it. I witnessed one in a hotel in Kuala Lumpur when I was there for work, one at our condo, and one in the elevator lobby of our floor at work in Singapore. The drums and cymbals in a small, enclosed, hard-walled area like the interior of an office building is the loudest thing I have ever heard indoors in my life.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8gcexuy1D_lK-7JuqudC2DhX7DT0qw1Rqh2uHZtBFXaXaGoEOol5pA22WR_jHhQkETiVPh9E32izzNaX-Eux4-hLaNp9bWYAj0Pc3r91VgN5X-vdX07h-9BfGqw9owEvkfgzGGR9fH2o-/s1600/VID_20180223_113357.mp4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="360" data-original-width="480" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8gcexuy1D_lK-7JuqudC2DhX7DT0qw1Rqh2uHZtBFXaXaGoEOol5pA22WR_jHhQkETiVPh9E32izzNaX-Eux4-hLaNp9bWYAj0Pc3r91VgN5X-vdX07h-9BfGqw9owEvkfgzGGR9fH2o-/s400/VID_20180223_113357.mp4" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonus points if you can prep a customer workshop while this is going on!</td></tr>
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<li>Abalone are a traditional CNY dish. Until CNY I had no idea what they were other than something sold in giant tin cans at the cash registers in Singapore grocery stores, where they are kept under lock and key because they're like $80 per can. They are sea snails, and taste like a cross between a mussel and a lobster.</li>
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We had heard that Chinese New Year was not a good time to visit China since everyone's gone home to visit with family and everything's closed, and we weren't sure how that would translate to Singapore. It turns out that as demographics have shifted to more city living across eastern Asia CNY has become a more and more urban holiday with events and celebrations. Plenty of smaller shops and restaurants were certainly closed, but given how much awesome stuff was going on (and how mild the weather is this time of year!) I think it would make a great time to visit the region. Mark your calendars for next year, and stop on by if you're in the neighborhood.</div>
Michael Borcherthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12424470357250613009noreply@blogger.com1